Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 2362280 times)

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Offline Abhorrent Cell

  • Posts: 73
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16700 on: Wed, 07 April 2021, 00:31:52 »
Anyone able to recommend a 60% or hhkb layout with split 7u bar/R shift/backspace?

I've pretty much ignored 60% for years, but now starting to like it.
« Last Edit: Wed, 07 April 2021, 02:05:03 by Abhorrent Cell »

Offline ddddavidddd

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16701 on: Wed, 07 April 2021, 15:49:32 »
Is there a wiki or list somewhere of new & notable keyboard releases?

Thanks!

Offline Fritz the German

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16702 on: Wed, 21 April 2021, 10:08:03 »
I've got the chance to get cheaply a Mitsumi KFK-EA5XA keyboard. Rubber dome, but Deskthority says about the switches: "The illustrated (ideal) force curve is similar to that of Topre switches." (https://deskthority.net/wiki/Mitsumi_KFK_Type).
Worth a try or would I just waste time?

Offline x86ect

  • Posts: 68
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16703 on: Mon, 26 April 2021, 06:08:53 »
Q: Are FR4 plates durable enough for hotswapping (any issues with chipping/cracking if swapping < 10 times)?
« Last Edit: Mon, 26 April 2021, 06:13:51 by x86ect »

Offline Greyson

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16704 on: Mon, 26 April 2021, 23:26:03 »
Please help: What thickness of sound dampening (e.g. sorbothane) will fit between frame and PCB of GMMK Pro? (looking to replace existing foam).

Thank you all!

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16705 on: Tue, 27 April 2021, 07:17:00 »

What thickness of sound dampening (e.g. sorbothane) will fit between frame and PCB of GMMK Pro?


I don't know the answer, but you can experiment by cutting pieces of cardboard and stacking them up at the place where the 2 surfaces come closest, and see where you start to feel interference.
"We must adjust to changing times and still hold to unchanging principles." – The bold and brilliant dream which excited the founders of this Nation still awaits its consummation. Ours was the first society openly to define itself in terms of both spirituality and of human liberty. It is that unique self–definition which has given us an exceptional appeal, but it also imposes on us a special obligation: to take on those moral duties which, when assumed, seem invariably to be in our own best interests.
The American dream endures. We must once again have full faith in our country – and in one another. I believe America can be better. We can be even stronger than before. Let our recent mistakes bring a resurgent commitment to the basic principles of our Nation, for we know that if we despise our own government we have no future. We recall in special times when we have stood briefly, but magnificently, united. In those times no prize was beyond our grasp.
But we cannot dwell upon remembered glory. We cannot afford to drift. Our Government must at the same time be both competent and compassionate. Our Nation can be strong abroad only if it is strong at home. And we know that the best way to enhance freedom in other lands is to demonstrate here that our democratic system is worthy of emulation. To be true to ourselves, we must be true to others. We must not behave in foreign places so as to violate our rules and standards here at home, for we know that the trust which our Nation earns is essential to our strength. 
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Offline yui

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16706 on: Tue, 27 April 2021, 07:28:01 »
Q: Are FR4 plates durable enough for hotswapping (any issues with chipping/cracking if swapping < 10 times)?
kailh rate the sockets at 100 insertions https://www.kailhswitch.com/info/mechanical-keyboard-switches-kailh-pcb-socket-30847668.html
although most peoples tend to see performances closer to 10 to 20 insertions, and if removed correctly, switches should not put much vertical stress onto the plate, so although all that is theory, i would guess the plate would last longer than the sockets, although if you force on them they will likely crack yes so get yourself a proper switch puller that can press on the switch tabs.
that is only theory as i do not own any hotswap or fr4 plate boards, although i worked with FR4 and it is a rather durable material all things considered.
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Offline Ranger_Trivette

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16707 on: Wed, 05 May 2021, 02:23:22 »
what does "reserved" in an IC means?

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16708 on: Wed, 05 May 2021, 02:57:40 »
what does "reserved" in an IC means?
Traditionally the second post of a GB thread was reserved by the runner and contained a list of updates and the date it was made so you could see what had changed without re-reading the whole long first post.

Today when randoms (not the OP) post it in an IC it's a meme saying they think there wasn't enough effort put into it.  As with most memes I don't get it, if it's bad it should be allowed to slip down the page(s) not repeatedly bumped.  The kids disagree...
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Offline Ranger_Trivette

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16709 on: Wed, 05 May 2021, 03:13:37 »
what does "reserved" in an IC means?
Traditionally the second post of a GB thread was reserved by the runner and contained a list of updates and the date it was made so you could see what had changed without re-reading the whole long first post.
thanks! now i understand.

Offline Jim-Bar

  • Posts: 1
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16710 on: Wed, 05 May 2021, 14:55:31 »
Designing my own plate to laser cut for putting in a Tofu65 case. Where can I find the specs for placing the screw holes at the correct locations, if that is to be found somewhere?

Offline Leopard223

  • Posts: 145
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16711 on: Fri, 14 May 2021, 18:57:43 »
Is the modern ABS more durable against yellowing? I got the R2 I’d the KBD67Lite and wondering how long it will last white assuming it will get very minimal sunlight

Offline MIGHTY CHICKEN

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16712 on: Sun, 16 May 2021, 10:36:59 »
Is the modern ABS more durable against yellowing? I got the R2 I’d the KBD67Lite and wondering how long it will last white assuming it will get very minimal sunlight
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43479.0#:~:text=PBT%20is%20much%20more%20resistant,a%20quick%20cleaning%20of%20course.)

Offline Slyceth

  • Posts: 10
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16713 on: Fri, 21 May 2021, 10:54:47 »
I'm looking for a low-profile hot-swappable 65% USB-C PCB+plate+case with the arrow keys a little off to the side like the GMMK Pro.
I want NO KNOBS, NO RGB and NO WIRELESS though.

I want the keyboard to be as light as possible though.

Is it possible to obtain such power? I've looked everywhere. I've even looked up every single keyboard listed on the QMK configurator (yes all 600+ of them)
« Last Edit: Fri, 21 May 2021, 11:04:56 by Slyceth »

Offline Leopard223

  • Posts: 145
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16714 on: Fri, 21 May 2021, 15:43:06 »
Is the modern ABS more durable against yellowing? I got the R2 I’d the KBD67Lite and wondering how long it will last white assuming it will get very minimal sunlight
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43479.0#:~:text=PBT%20is%20much%20more%20resistant,a%20quick%20cleaning%20of%20course.)
Adam from KBDfans havetold me ABS is better than PBT when it comes to yellowing, every research tells me overwise. 
Though it has been 7 years since that thread, could the modern ABS be pretty good against yellowing?

Offline Ranger_Trivette

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16715 on: Sat, 22 May 2021, 15:24:46 »


how "two colors plate" are made?
looks like the plate get painted and later cleaned.

any ideas?

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16716 on: Sat, 22 May 2021, 15:45:35 »
how "two colors plate" are made?
looks like the plate get painted and later cleaned.

any ideas?

Could be an FR4 (PCB) plate where the gold bits are exposed 'traces' and the blue or black is the mask that usually covers all but the bits you solder?
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Offline Slyceth

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16717 on: Sat, 22 May 2021, 17:58:45 »
Alright, then if there are no exploded arrow key options, I just want a 65% PCB with frame and case, does anybody know anywhere I can buy one right now?

Offline Ranger_Trivette

  • Posts: 90
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16718 on: Sun, 23 May 2021, 10:38:01 »
how "two colors plate" are made?
looks like the plate get painted and later cleaned.

any ideas?


Could be an FR4 (PCB) plate where the gold bits are exposed 'traces' and the blue or black is the mask that usually covers all but the bits you solder?
mmm not sure... i'll search a little bit more.
they looks very nice

Offline Ranger_Trivette

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16719 on: Mon, 24 May 2021, 02:40:31 »
how "two colors plate" are made?
looks like the plate get painted and later cleaned.

any ideas?

Could be an FR4 (PCB) plate where the gold bits are exposed 'traces' and the blue or black is the mask that usually covers all but the bits you solder?
after a weekend of research, yes they are.
you start from an fr4 plate with a copper layer on top. the you mill all the copper except the frame of each switch slot.

so i need to find someone that mill fr4 plate  :cool:

thanks again :)

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16720 on: Mon, 24 May 2021, 09:57:44 »
so i need to find someone that mill fr4 plate  :cool:
Milling PCB doesn't sound fun, it's not perfectly flat and you want a very small cut depth.

You should be able to get one made by any PCB maker who will probably etch it and if you're only looking at the top it can be single sided so cheaper :thumb:
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Offline asgeirtj

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16721 on: Thu, 27 May 2021, 05:29:33 »
https://iqunix.store/products/iqunix-f96-mechanical-keyboard-wireless-bluetooth

Does this keyboard have customizable layout on the pcb? And can you reprogram the keys?
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Offline Ranger_Trivette

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16722 on: Thu, 27 May 2021, 09:48:40 »
https://iqunix.store/products/iqunix-f96-mechanical-keyboard-wireless-bluetooth

Does this keyboard have customizable layout on the pcb? And can you reprogram the keys?
the description say "fully programmable".

here you can see the pcb. doesn't seem customizable to me.

Offline ayz

  • Posts: 1
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16723 on: Thu, 27 May 2021, 13:42:21 »
So I want to make my own coiled usb cable. Do you guys notice any difference between usb 2.0 and 3.0? Does it have any effect on the polling rate (1000hz)?

Offline Nayz

  • Posts: 1
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16724 on: Thu, 27 May 2021, 14:36:05 »
Can anyone explain to me how correctly fix a pcb that isn't working? I have a kdb75 that is now fully built (as in all switches are lubed and soldered to the pcb) and the right menu key is not working. I have confirmed that the issue is not the switch (I've changed out switches). I have seen a large amount of material about making a switch bridge and I watched a youtube video on it, however this did not work for me. I was able to get the switch that is supposed to output right menu to output right alt through a switch bridge, but this does not help me as I still cannot use the right menu key for it's intended purpose. If anyone is willing to help please give me your suggestions, if needed I will include pictures of the pcb.

Offline Sifo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16725 on: Thu, 27 May 2021, 14:43:06 »
Can anyone explain to me how correctly fix a pcb that isn't working? I have a kdb75 that is now fully built (as in all switches are lubed and soldered to the pcb) and the right menu key is not working. I have confirmed that the issue is not the switch (I've changed out switches). I have seen a large amount of material about making a switch bridge and I watched a youtube video on it, however this did not work for me. I was able to get the switch that is supposed to output right menu to output right alt through a switch bridge, but this does not help me as I still cannot use the right menu key for it's intended purpose. If anyone is willing to help please give me your suggestions, if needed I will include pictures of the pcb.

isn't the right menu key programmed to be an Fn key by default on those pcbs, have you tried changing the keymap in the firmware
(Forever) Illustrious.

Offline DotMatrixMoe

  • Posts: 15
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16726 on: Fri, 28 May 2021, 10:01:49 »
I'm new to GeekHack, so I came to this thread first to ask my question. I've seen tons of teensy USB modifications for an average IBM MODEL M keyboard. However, what I possess is an IBM MODEL M13. I wish to use it as my daily driver, due to the amazing bucklings and iconic trackpoint. I've looked everywhere for tutorials that at least modifies a M with a mouse input, with no avail. I could've wrote this in one sentence, but I love boring people :p . Are there any controller boards capable of doing such a modification?

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16727 on: Sat, 29 May 2021, 04:02:37 »
I'm new to GeekHack, so I came to this thread first to ask my question. I've seen tons of teensy USB modifications for an average IBM MODEL M keyboard. However, what I possess is an IBM MODEL M13. I wish to use it as my daily driver, due to the amazing bucklings and iconic trackpoint. I've looked everywhere for tutorials that at least modifies a M with a mouse input, with no avail. I could've wrote this in one sentence, but I love boring people :p . Are there any controller boards capable of doing such a modification?
Welcome to geekhack :)

I have no experience with these but people like trackpoints so I expect it works.  What connections does it have?  If it's PS/2 you can use a USB adaptor, if it's something more fun the tmk convertor thread is probably what you're looking for (if you can help debug hasu will try to make it work if it doesn't already)
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Offline XPrisTX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16728 on: Fri, 04 June 2021, 09:53:44 »
hi all. my friend just gave me https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k1-wireless-mechanical-keyboard--- Keychron K1 (and old verison 2 i guess).
it's werid, when i just slightly touch a key (on the side mostly) - i already see a text being typed. without a click.  >:D
is that normal for low profile mechanical keyboards or is it just that one?
thanks.
« Last Edit: Tue, 13 July 2021, 05:26:21 by XPrisTX »

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16729 on: Fri, 04 June 2021, 12:52:50 »
hi all. my friend just gave me https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k1-wireless-mechanical-keyboard- Keychron K1 (and old verison 2 i guess).
it's werid, when i just slightly touch a key (on the side mostly) - i already see a text being typed. without a click.  >:D
is that normal for low profile mechanical keyboards or is it just that one?
thanks.
I would hope it's not normal.  Does it happen on every key or only ones that have been used lots, like the vowels?
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Offline coelacanth

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16730 on: Tue, 08 June 2021, 15:49:50 »
I am a newbie when it comes to keyboards, however I end up hearing the terms north-facing, south-facing, and interference a lot. From my understanding, this is referring to the direction your switches are facing and how your keycaps interact/handle it. One thing that I'm confused about though is that people seem to say gmk keycaps (cherry profile) tend to have interference on north-facing switches. If you had south-facing switches would this problem subside? Also what dictates the direction your switches face, is it the switches themselves or is it the pcb?

I have yet to buy any products yet, but I am planning on doing so in the near future. I would like to take into consideration all of these details to give myself the best first keyboard experience.

Online LightningXI

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16731 on: Tue, 08 June 2021, 16:30:13 »
If you had south-facing switches would this problem subside? Also what dictates the direction your switches face, is it the switches themselves or is it the pcb?

It's the PCB that supports the orientation of the switches. Because the PCB is made a certain way, the switches must fit in that particular direction. And yes, when you use south-facing switches, due to the interior shape of Cherry profile keycaps, the problem with collisions of keycaps with switch-tops subsides.

If you are planning to use Cherry profile, I would highly advise sticking to south-facing (LED window on the bottom-side).




Offline coelacanth

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16732 on: Tue, 08 June 2021, 20:05:08 »
If you had south-facing switches would this problem subside? Also what dictates the direction your switches face, is it the switches themselves or is it the pcb?

It's the PCB that supports the orientation of the switches. Because the PCB is made a certain way, the switches must fit in that particular direction. And yes, when you use south-facing switches, due to the interior shape of Cherry profile keycaps, the problem with collisions of keycaps with switch-tops subsides.

If you are planning to use Cherry profile, I would highly advise sticking to south-facing (LED window on the bottom-side).


Thank you! I really appreciate all this info  ;D

Offline coelacanth

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16733 on: Wed, 09 June 2021, 08:57:51 »
Since I am newer to this hobby, I noticed people often prefer 6 or 7 degree keyboards, anything higher is too steep and you may need a wrist rest. Personally I have mild sporadic carpal tunnel and the keyboard I was interested in happens to be 9 degrees. I am wondering if this is a major downside and I would be better off looking into something more considerate of this condition, or if this is something completely useable and I am misinformed.

Offline coelacanth

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16734 on: Wed, 09 June 2021, 11:33:03 »
Earlier today I thought I understood what south facing and north facing meant. However, after looking into a keyboard I'm interested in (Geonworks Frog Tkl) I asked the discord the directions of each of the 4 pcb options. I was referred to this chart. https://imgur.com/a/DWGZ1wk
 In the chat people continued to speak about this but I can't figure out what north facing stabilizers is supposed to mean, does this mean the entire pcb, including the switches are north facing? Are they south facing but only the stabilizers are north? I'm so confused !
« Last Edit: Wed, 09 June 2021, 11:39:32 by coelacanth »

Offline TheWonderBubble

  • Posts: 54
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16735 on: Fri, 11 June 2021, 14:08:50 »
So currently I use a Razer Black Widow Chroma Stealth with their orange switches in it for my work. I'm looking to replace this board for a few reasons but I don't actually dislike the switch feel. For anyone familiar with them, what tactile switch would be a good replacement? I wouldn't mind something slightly less mushy/more positive, but overall I'm pretty happy with these for the typing I do at work. The current info on Razer's site shows a box-style stem [ + ] whereas mine have the MX style +, so I'm not sure if the information there is still accurate or not (I was given this keyboard a couple years ago).
« Last Edit: Wed, 16 June 2021, 18:14:14 by TheWonderBubble »
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Offline Learis

  • Posts: 96
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16736 on: Mon, 14 June 2021, 11:09:36 »
I've seen that stacking two 1.5mm thick o-rings (3.0mm thickness total) causes the travel distance on cherry-profile keycaps to shorten to the point where a few switches don't actuate unless I mash the key.

I decided to order special o-rings that are 2.5mm. Can anyone confirm if this is safe for cherry profile and will always give enough travel distance for actuation? I'll honestly find out in a week or so when they come in, but the suspense is killing me. It's killing meeee!!!!
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Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16737 on: Wed, 16 June 2021, 16:56:33 »
I've seen that stacking two 1.5mm thick o-rings (3.0mm thickness total) causes the travel distance on cherry-profile keycaps to shorten to the point where a few switches don't actuate unless I mash the key.

I decided to order special o-rings that are 2.5mm. Can anyone confirm if this is safe for cherry profile and will always give enough travel distance for actuation? I'll honestly find out in a week or so when they come in, but the suspense is killing me. It's killing meeee!!!!

There is also hardness to consider as softer rings compress more allowing more travel.  I think you'll have to wait and see, if you can survive that long :-X
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Offline Learis

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16738 on: Fri, 18 June 2021, 21:13:18 »
I can now confirm that 2.5mm thick o-rings are still definitely too thick for cherry profile at least. They nearly work, but for maybe 1 in 5 switches they're still too thick to where you have to mash or at least do a more forceful press to actuate the key. And this is more prevelant for some reason on the top row. I am using standard durock linear switches.

Oh well. I'm sticking to the normal 1.5mm thick orings I have which work fine. Maybe I'll experiment with 2mm orings in the future.
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Offline SlotH42

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16739 on: Sat, 26 June 2021, 11:54:26 »
I woke up this morning and turned on my PC and my poker 2 caps lock is blinking. It wont type anything. I have tried holding down fn + r to restore to factory settings, but nothing seems to register. I plugged it into another PC only to have the same issue. I have not found very much info on this searching on line other than a few people saying it could be a firmware issue?? Anyone know what I can do to fix this problem?
I have tried downloading the firmware from ikbckeyboard however after I extract the file and run the application the button that says "okay" to update the firmware is not working I cant click it.
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Offline yui

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16740 on: Mon, 28 June 2021, 01:52:25 »
I woke up this morning and turned on my PC and my poker 2 caps lock is blinking. It wont type anything. I have tried holding down fn + r to restore to factory settings, but nothing seems to register. I plugged it into another PC only to have the same issue. I have not found very much info on this searching on line other than a few people saying it could be a firmware issue?? Anyone know what I can do to fix this problem?
I have tried downloading the firmware from ikbckeyboard however after I extract the file and run the application the button that says "okay" to update the firmware is not working I cant click it.
i have no experience with that board but i would agree that it screams of bad firmware, although this would require a bit more than a simple question and a simple answer to diagnose properly and i would recommend to start a thread and hopefully peoples with more experience may see it.
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Offline snerk

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16741 on: Wed, 07 July 2021, 12:45:34 »
I'm looking for a fullsize keyboard that has:

1. cherry mx switch mounting (solder is fine) 
2. full-sized arrow/numpad/etc setup, not the compact one 
3. QMK or VIA support

*or*

I'm looking for a fullsize keyboard that has 6-12 programmable macro keys, either up above the Fkeys or to the left side.

I'm looking to get a nice keyboard setup for work. I have switches and caps that I like already. I need a fullsize as I use the numpad and pgup/pgdn/insert/delete/home/end, fkeys, etc. all routinely at work. But I want macro keys so I can program in some super-common keystroke combinations that I use as well and semi-automate/speed up my work.

Currently I'm thinking of running an inexpensive but halfway decent TKL and bringing my Tidbit to work with my macros programmed, but if I could have a dedicated work board set up for my job that would be fine.

Not averse to building/programming/etc. Could be a fun project. :)

Offline yui

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16742 on: Fri, 09 July 2021, 01:26:30 »
I'm looking for a fullsize keyboard that has 6-12 programmable macro keys, either up above the Fkeys or to the left side.
if you did not already have switches and caps i would recommend the FK9200, it is now my daily driver and the macro are very easy to set up on it. other than that 100% kits are incredibly rare so maybe keep a look out for the boston, if i follow correctly it should come into GB soon
vi vi vi - the roman number of the beast (Plan9 fortune)

Offline rsrogers4

  • Posts: 18
  • Location: US-MD
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16743 on: Wed, 14 July 2021, 07:37:34 »
This weekend, I will be building my first custom mechanical keyboard.

Components: F12 Silver Frog TKL, SA-P Industrial PBT Keycaps, Alpaca v2 Switches, Everglide PCB Screw-in Stabilizer V2, Hotswap PCB (86,F12 Tsangan). I also purchased the case foam, board foam, alu plate, FR4 full plate, hard tadpoles, and soft tadpoles.

Here is my plan: start with alu plate, unlubed switches (they are factory lubed), unlubed/unmodded stabs, hard tadpoles, and no foam. Then I plan to slowly add mods one at a time, every other week, so I can truly learn how each mod feels/sounds. I realize that some mods (like the foam) are frowned upon but I purchased these just for the learning experience.

Two questions: 1) does this plan make sense, and 2) will I damage my switches, stabs, or plates by not using lube from the start?

Offline yui

  • Posts: 967
  • Location: 127.0.0.1 (in azerty)
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16744 on: Wed, 14 July 2021, 09:01:13 »
Two questions: 1) does this plan make sense, and 2) will I damage my switches, stabs, or plates by not using lube from the start?
1- yeah make sense, i somewhat did the same, or something very similar (no switch lube and far cheaper overall)
2- switches or stabs are designed to be used unlubed so no it will not damage them to use them unlubed, if you use them unlubed for long enough you may even never need to lube them as they will break in and become smooth of themselves withing a week or two, and to damage plates you will need to type really hard. the only thing is that hotswap sockets are rather weak, they are rated for relatively few insertions (200, very low in the connector realm) and peoples found that they can stop working after as few as 5 insertions, and one final point, for me at least i did not find any difference in feel between lubed or not stabs, just lubed they are way less rattly and noisy. the only think you could damage is your keycaps and switches at disassembly and the hotswap sockets at reassembly, do not force on the sockets, if a pin is bent and you force you can rip the socket out, if you need to force 1st check that the pins go both where they should.
vi vi vi - the roman number of the beast (Plan9 fortune)

Offline rsrogers4

  • Posts: 18
  • Location: US-MD
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16745 on: Wed, 14 July 2021, 09:10:43 »
Thank you so much, Yui. I had no idea hotswap PCBs were so fragile. I will take your advice and be careful. Honestly, the Tsangan PCB has been a bit of a pain with respect to the R4 "non-standard" keycaps and is north facing so apparently won't work with QMK keys, so I may be replacing it somewhat soon with a Hineybush or other compatible solder PCB. I thought hotswap would give me a chance to try both linear and tactile switches since I don't know which I'd like more... hopefully the hotswap PCB I have lasts at least that long!

Offline rsrogers4

  • Posts: 18
  • Location: US-MD
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16746 on: Sun, 18 July 2021, 12:10:15 »
Is it normal for 2/3rds of the switches to come out when pulling keycaps (using a wire puller on diagonal corners of the key) off a hotswap PCB? I have new SA-P keys which are pretty thick PBT, in case that matters.

« Last Edit: Sun, 18 July 2021, 12:53:04 by rsrogers4 »

Offline rowdy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16747 on: Sun, 18 July 2021, 17:37:37 »
Is it normal for 2/3rds of the switches to come out when pulling keycaps (using a wire puller on diagonal corners of the key) off a hotswap PCB? I have new SA-P keys which are pretty thick PBT, in case that matters.

That doesn't sound right.

I've only gotten into hotswap switches, but I've not experienced one switch coming out when removing keycaps.

Nor when removing keycaps from non-hotswap switch keyboards.  Ever.

It might depend on how well the switches fit into the board - my hotswap keyboards seem to hold the switches fairly well.  The amount of wear on the switches depending on how many times they have been installed and removed might also affect how well they clip in.

It might also depend on your technique.  I was watching a video of someone reviewing a keyboard, and they hooked the puller under the keycap, rested their hand on the keyboard, and just yanked upwards :eek:  Asking for trouble!

I tend to fit the puller, then wiggle it gently around in a very small circle while applying gradually increasing upwards force.  Works 99% of the time.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

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Offline rsrogers4

  • Posts: 18
  • Location: US-MD
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16748 on: Sun, 18 July 2021, 17:51:53 »
Thanks, Rowdy. The switches and PCB are both new. I might have been pulling too hard, and I didn't wiggle!

Offline asgeirtj

  • Posts: 531
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #16749 on: Fri, 23 July 2021, 08:44:56 »
Leopold FC900 w/ 67g Purple Zealios - Silver Duck Octagon w/ 62 Purple Zealios