Recent Posts

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Classifieds / Re: [WTS] Keycaps - R1 Penumbra, Klaxon, Turtle Power, Blank PBT
« Last post by GeorgeK on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:45:55 »
Bump
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Interest Checks / Re: [IC] Modern M0110
« Last post by heliar_mk on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:32:24 »
Anything news?
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Great Finds / Re: Lot of two NIB WYSE KB-3923 (hi-quality RD), $29.99 shipped
« Last post by SamirD on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:19:58 »
I used to find these BNIB basically every time I went to the recycling centre xD . If I'd have known people were interested in them I'd have taken some for them :) .
You could have kept them and then be like the 'keyboard tooth fairy' that went by everyone's desk at work and replaced their terrible boards with a better one...with the hope of course that it becomes the gateway keyboard into the mechanical world, hehe.

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Ergonomics / Re: Help w/ setup for severe hand arthritis
« Last post by davkol on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:18:18 »
Soft-landing pads have hardness only 30A iirc, less then common o-rings (40-50A or more). They're a mushy mess on linear switches though imho.

That said, I prefer switches with a steeper force curve; specifically, I'm using (vintage) MX Black switches with 78g springs (more or less the same properties as stock MX Clear springs, only slightly lighter): there's less preload and the switch is easier to actuate, but harder to bottom out than stock MX Black.

Some people also prefer tactile or audible feedback at actuation, as it helps them avoid bottoming out. I don't particularly care, but had a great experience with the buzzer in Kinesis Advantage that beeped on actuation.

Another option is moving to rubber domes: 30g Topre or clones from Noppoo/PLUM, or I really liked Goldtouch Adjustable keyboard back when I still had it.

Finally, just _type_ less and use text expansion, dictation software or something else instead.
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Great Finds / Re: USB Unsaver
« Last post by SamirD on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:17:54 »
It really is a near-perfect specimen, looks immaculate. I don't really care about the APL caps, but I know that some people lust after them.

I would have done (did, on mine) an ANSI mod, but this guy went all the way with an Xwhatsit and USB-B socket.

He seems to know what is going on, does anybody recognize him as a member here or on DT?
That's what I'm kinda wondering as well as the buyers of these great specimens.  Are the buyers just regulars like us that don't post much?  Do we have ballers in our midst?  :eek:
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Great Finds / Re: [SOLD] GE Healthcare Model M (Unicomp), near new, $55.95 shipped
« Last post by SamirD on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:15:43 »
Clearly, the only rational thing to do is to try to collect one of everything.
Ah, a fellow enthusiast who in just one sentence rationalizes the sum total of life in general.  :D



Collect 2 of each - use parts from one to keep the other one going.
Of course!  If it works with cars, why not keebs!  :thumb:

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Keyboards / Re: 2017: What are your keyboard plans?
« Last post by Tom_Kazansky on Tue, 21 November 2017, 03:10:14 »
1. wait for Banana Split 60% PCB
2. build 2 boards (1 for home - clicky switch, 1 for work - tactile/linear switch)
3. grab G20 Semiotic and GMK Black Lotus and, maybe, XDA Milestone (R2)
4. build a hand-wired "one-hand-keyboard" (it's like left-half of 60%) and find a way to make a PCB for it.

that's all for now ;D

1. I went with JC65 instead of Banana Split (my poor patience)
2. yep, two board.
3. got the G20 Semiotic  ;D , still waiting on GMK Black Lotus  :( , dropped XDA Milestone
4. I guess I can say I gave up on the "left-half of 60%", still I'm finding another way around this.

(probably 2018 plan)
5. build split-layout keyboard.
6. build TKL keyboard


my plan.... basically nothing .. I'm very happy with my Filco TKL (mx-reds) w/ o-rings and vortex PBT double shots ..

thought you would want a left-hand TKL?  :))
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From the Deskthority wiki:

M0116: Unreadable, but appears to be 386789: made in USA, orange Alps with no logo, ca. 1987

M0118: AL13910SM0117Z, salmon
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Off Topic / Re: The Beer Thread!
« Last post by MythicalWagyu on Tue, 21 November 2017, 02:55:59 »
Getting into the winter spirit  tonight :cool:
(Attachment Link)
Alpine Duet never lets me down  :thumb:
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KeyClack / Re: [GB] M65-A | Made with RAMA.WORKS
« Last post by MythicalWagyu on Tue, 21 November 2017, 02:54:10 »
Flux, use lots of flux.

Seriously, biggest mistake made by the inexperienced.

Over-fluxing can just be fixed in the cleanup with some Alcohol.
I'll second this. Flux is absolutely critical to making clean joints. Only takes a tiny bit on each joint, but everything flows out so much nicer.


I've got a spool of this Kester 24-6337-0010 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 to work with, does it matter what kind of flux? Got anything in particular you prefer using?
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