That car is sexy, but can you imagine how much of a pain it would be to clean? It'd get so dirty, so fast!
I waited 24 hours to try to remove some of the keycaps from my cardboard holder, and I think I rushed it. For one, some of the paint (which is also a glue in this case) passed underneath the keycaps, and so was not fully dry. Also, I painted them quickly -- as in, not as perfectly even as I would have liked, so that also caused some drying issues. I'm going to leave them alone for another 24 hours minimum. The adhesion seems pretty good, however.
The kit I got for this was black suede -- these are rayon fibers, 1mm -- I got it from
http://www.flockit.com/ -- it was maybe $40 if I remember correctly. The length of the fibers doesn't seem to be an issue. I think if I had painted and flocked each one individually, or as many as I could do in a span of say 5 minutes, artfully, would have been better. I'm thinking that I could attach the keycaps to sticks, paint them, stick them into some floral foam, flock them, and then let them dry.
The trick is that the flocking gets everywhere. It's so fine that it almost resembles paint itself, sticking to everything. I'm going to build a plastic lined box, and line it with floral foam, so the sticks can be held up and rotated during the flock spraying. The flock is sprayed out using a cardboard tube assembly the "puffs" it out as a cloud. I'm still not sure if I should be priming the keycaps. According to Donjer, the surface that is being flocked should not absorb any of the paint/adhesive -- that it should be 'sealed'. The plastic felt pretty non-porous to me, but maybe if I roughed it up with some sandpaper after priming, it would help.
The few samples I have seem pretty good, and they feel good. My spacebar came out great. There are some caps that lost a bit of flocking on the back side because I put down the adhesive in a half-assed, rushed way. Where the adhesive was a bit too thick, the flocking seems more likely to able to be pulled off. The directions claim that the adhesive will not fully cure for up to a week, so, I'm going to try to be more patient.
I tried taking photos, but I really need my wife's DSLR to take better closeups, so you can see the flock.
Also, I really like the idea, but considering how much paints that are specifically intended to defeat our ever persistent fingertips, I'm not confident how well these will hold up under the same circumstances.
Yeah, that's going to be something we'll find out. Even after only about 24 hours for the BS caps, and a single DCS cap that had over 48 hours to cure, the flocking seems surprisingly durable. I think the process suffered more from my technique than from a failure of the flocking itself. Bottom line: I think it worked, and I think there's some potential for the process.
Would it be possible to use a dyed epoxy in place of paint, to attempt to overcome the wear issue?
The flocking 'paint' that I used is made specifically for flocking, so it's got properties that are similar to a glue. My research has shown that people use everything from white Elmer's glue, to Rustoleum (for duck decoy flocking) to more specialized coatings. Again, I won't know how long the flocking will hold up until I give it time to fully cure, and then start banging away on the keycaps.
Maybe what I'll do is make some spacebars and then ship 'em out to people to test, and see how well it works.
I'm very excited about how this could work because there are a lot of possibilities -- mix a small amount of reflective flock into the black flock and you've gone from a matte black to a faintly shimmery black, and as I stated earlier, flocking can be mixed like paint. And it feels like you're touching the inside of a jewelry box. I won't know how it feels on entire board until a few more days, but I think it will be pretty awesome.
Also, Flocked wrist rests?
Yeah, I think Beast could make good use of this process. Coat the bottom of a wooden wrist rest with the adhesive, and then flock it for a nice, soft finish. Or maybe even on the top side, as a single stripe -- just mask the areas you don't want flocked. The flocking I used didn't seem to be fazed by the contours of the caps at all, so flocking the bottom of a rest should be even easier.