Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 28 April 2016, 17:11:32
Order Here (http://goo.gl/forms/6aPsJOOJm8)
Price: $189 + Extras/PayPal fees
Check orders here: https://goo.gl/94OpKW
Price: $189 + Extras/PayPal fees
Check orders here: https://goo.gl/94OpKW
(https://i.imgur.com/8Z2mVE4.jpg)
The base kit includes:
Anodized Aluminum Case
Anodized Aluminum Plate
PCB (white + ENIG)
Blank PBT Keycaps (1.5mm thick)
PCB mount Cherry stabs (7 2u, 1 6.25u)
Gateron Switches (clear tops, black base. Pics shown below)
LED's
Mini USB cable
Shipping:
Shipping is $15 in the US and $25 internationally
We aim to ship by June 15th.
You can choose to upgrade to a set of black on dark grey dye sub PBT caps and Cherry MX switches.
More
(https://i.imgur.com/CQlhAFf.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/5OmVPii.jpg)
More Info:
Supported Layouts
More
(https://i.imgur.com/GSjp4cv.jpg)
Color examples:
More
(https://i.imgur.com/pykVZ9x.jpg)
Pictures of case:
https://imgur.com/a/wHExd
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 29 April 2016, 06:39:26
I posted the link over on the IC thread.
Post by: ika on Fri, 29 April 2016, 08:28:53
Post by: Waateva on Fri, 29 April 2016, 08:42:13
what happened to the massdrop?
I'm assuming it didn't hit MOQ
Post by: LeandreN on Fri, 29 April 2016, 08:51:01
Post by: Bumbibear on Fri, 29 April 2016, 09:39:33
Post by: kawasaki161 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 09:40:12
OT:
I'm getting way too many keyboards. It just started with that one QF TK because I wanted to try out browns(actually have Zealios in that one now), now I also want a Topre, this and the 62/60.
send help
Edit:
How will the customs declaration of the package look like? Will it be 100% of the price we pay or something that will be easier on our wallet?
Post by: redbanshee on Fri, 29 April 2016, 09:55:25
In. Glad you guys decided to ditch Massdelay and offer it on here.
Post by: WNovizar on Fri, 29 April 2016, 10:23:06
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 29 April 2016, 10:47:28
Okay, this price is a LOT better than the massdrop one, even the shipping is cheaper. This change got me very interested. Seems like the Topre board has to wait now, also seems like I have to order more Zealios in R3.
OT:
I'm getting way too many keyboards. It just started with that one QF TK because I wanted to try out browns(actually have Zealios in that one now), now I also want a Topre, this and the 62/60.
send help
Edit:
How will the customs declaration of the package look like? Will it be 100% of the price we pay or something that will be easier on our wallet?
I mark as gift and worth will probably be around $90.
Post by: chuckdee on Fri, 29 April 2016, 10:58:52
what happened to the massdrop?
I'm assuming it didn't hit MOQ
Didn't. It might have at this price. Good work sourcing different parts!
Shipping date as May 31st - seems rather aggressive considering the final date for orders isn't listed, and there's no order form linked.
Thoughts?
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:08:57
what happened to the massdrop?
I'm assuming it didn't hit MOQ
Didn't. It might have at this price. Good work sourcing different parts!
Shipping date as May 31st - seems rather aggressive considering the final date for orders isn't listed, and there's no order form linked.
Thoughts?
Yeah, that was assuming we started production right now. Turnaround should still be quick.
Order form is at the way top haha
Post by: LunarisDream on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:20:31
So near yet so far from my dream layout......
Haha.
Glad to see this here. I was really sad when MD didn't go through because this does look like a great board in a novel form factor. And the price difference! Wow.
Post by: aaron6301 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:42:43
Post by: kawasaki161 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:47:33
I mark as gift and worth will probably be around $90.
For orders that go to germany:
If marked as gift we have to pay no customs up to 45€ which is around $50 atm.
If not marked as gift we have to pay no customs up to 22€, which is a little less than $25 atm.
I
Post by: skuko on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:48:43
Post by: mogo on Fri, 29 April 2016, 11:58:28
Post by: MaNiFeX on Fri, 29 April 2016, 12:36:25
Post by: mogo on Fri, 29 April 2016, 16:25:55
Post by: alexjd99 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 17:26:53
Post by: aaron6301 on Fri, 29 April 2016, 18:11:21
Great price, you can count me in!
Edit: Order submitted
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 29 April 2016, 23:30:53
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 29 April 2016, 23:48:16
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 30 April 2016, 00:03:09
Registered on here just to say how glad I am this drop is happening! Can't wait to get my hands on this board!
Welcome to GH!
Post by: breitling on Sat, 30 April 2016, 02:37:12
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 30 April 2016, 02:52:25
This doesn't come with stabs right? What kind of does PCB and plate take PCB mount or plat mount stabs?
It says it includes PCB mount cherry stabs haha
Post by: JaccoW on Sat, 30 April 2016, 14:20:38
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 30 April 2016, 17:08:11
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 30 April 2016, 22:20:28
Will this be pre-assembled or I'll do that myself? e.g soldering switches ?
PCB will be presoldered (diodes, resistors), but switches and LED's will have to be soldered.
how much would you ask for assembly? i'm really not into soldering :(
Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to offer that sorry :(
There's a ton of guides online, and it shouldn't be too difficult given it's throughhole.
When will orders close? And when will invoicing begin?
No exact date but about week or two from now.
Post by: jonathanyu on Sat, 30 April 2016, 22:27:42
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 30 April 2016, 22:33:07
can I order this without any switches and keycaps?
Last option under switches, first option under keycaps.
Post by: breitling on Sun, 01 May 2016, 01:37:01
This doesn't come with stabs right? What kind of does PCB and plate take PCB mount or plat mount stabs?
It says it includes PCB mount cherry stabs haha
Doh thanks.. so blind. Still mulling this over.... don't love the layout but the price makes it so attractive just for the heck of it.
Post by: Bumbibear on Tue, 03 May 2016, 01:46:27
Post by: breitling on Tue, 03 May 2016, 11:01:53
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 04 May 2016, 17:15:30
Submitted Form now! :) ;D
Awesome, thanks!
Does this have the same MOQ as massdrop? Also what's the deadline to join? Thanks!
No it does not and it ends on the 10th of May!
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 04 May 2016, 18:44:12
Wohooo birthday board then
No it does not and it ends on the 10th of May!
Post by: w00zie on Wed, 04 May 2016, 18:55:17
Post by: skuko on Thu, 05 May 2016, 01:40:57
btw. i assume this also comes with some rubber feet to prevent slipping?
Post by: scramm on Thu, 05 May 2016, 08:36:31
Post by: redbanshee on Thu, 05 May 2016, 09:51:11
Can someone confirm whether or not this can run TMK firmware?
It can
Post by: cr0n1c on Sat, 07 May 2016, 19:58:42
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 07 May 2016, 20:05:16
Post by: redbanshee on Mon, 09 May 2016, 11:17:31
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
Post by: mogo on Mon, 09 May 2016, 11:22:11
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
You're a champ. :thumb:
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 09 May 2016, 12:20:13
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 09 May 2016, 12:53:26
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
Thanks man!
Post by: Brammm87 on Thu, 12 May 2016, 00:50:43
- Is only a pcb + plate an option (no case etc)?
- Does it allow for a split numpad 0 (1800 style)?
- Do you have more pictures of the PCB?
-
Post by: mogo on Thu, 12 May 2016, 01:51:30
I'm really interested, but have a couple questions, especially about the pcb:
- Is only a pcb + plate an option (no case etc)?
- Does it allow for a split numpad 0 (1800 style)?
- Do you have more pictures of the PCB?
-Is it tmk programmable like the sentraq s60?Nvm, just saw the link to the firmware.
I'm not dooders, but from what i've gathered:
-No, despite all requests it seems that if you're buying, you're buying a case, there's no opting out of it.
-No, it appears that the Num-Zero is a 2u only on the PCB.
-Here's some from the IC thread in very late stages of testing.
(http://i.imgur.com/zJJ1R6U.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SmJh3g8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dv5Nh81.jpg)
Post by: redbanshee on Thu, 12 May 2016, 10:04:48
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 12 May 2016, 15:59:51
I'm really interested, but have a couple questions, especially about the pcb:
- Is only a pcb + plate an option (no case etc)?
- Does it allow for a split numpad 0 (1800 style)?
- Do you have more pictures of the PCB?
-Is it tmk programmable like the sentraq s60?Nvm, just saw the link to the firmware.
1. No, case is required
2. Nope, our reasoning is that we can maintain a standard bottom row for keycap compatibility by staying with the 2u zero.
3. These are earlier prototype PCB's so traces are different, but layout is the same. https://imgur.com/a/4ngZ0
4. Yep!
Speaking of doodersbrother... where is he? How long will untill we get invoices? Are these already ordered? Are the MD kids orders going to be added into the GH orders? Little more info dude....
Hey, I check this thread every night, but usually any questions have already been answered by someone else.
MD orders are not being added, and invoices will be sent around on Monday. Sorry should have made that clear haha
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 12 May 2016, 16:29:32
Speaking of doodersbrother... where is he? How long will untill we get invoices? Are these already ordered? Are the MD kids orders going to be added into the GH orders? Little more info dude....
Hey, I check this thread every night, but usually any questions have already been answered by someone else.
MD orders are not being added, and invoices will be sent around on Monday. Sorry should have made that clear haha
[/quote]
Thanks for the update dooders
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 14 May 2016, 09:08:41
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 14 May 2016, 20:20:28
Is it still possible to change my order? I would like to have Gateron Blacks instead of the no switch option I think I ticked, I also don't need LED's anymore (can't quite remember if I ticked no LED's or white... would be too easy if google sent you a copy of what you just entered).
Yeah easily, just PM exactly what you want changed. It'll show what you ordered on the PayPal invoice and I'll put up a public spreadsheet with the order status after invoices go out.
Post by: alexjd99 on Sat, 14 May 2016, 20:45:53
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 16 May 2016, 19:32:35
Are we able to change our stabilizers to a 7u set/ not order stabs with it?
I don't think 7u stabs can be provided. I'll check and get a definitive answer. Omitting stabs would be make very little difference in terms of price, like $2. I can still do that for you if you want, however.
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 16 May 2016, 19:33:19
Check orders here!
https://goo.gl/94OpKW
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 16 May 2016, 19:42:27
INVOICES SENT OUT
Check orders here!
https://goo.gl/94OpKW
Perfect, thank you. This answers the question of came to ask. Invoice paid. Can't wait for this!
Post by: alexjd99 on Mon, 16 May 2016, 20:25:39
Are we able to change our stabilizers to a 7u set/ not order stabs with it?
I don't think 7u stabs can be provided. I'll check and get a definitive answer. Omitting stabs would be make very little difference in terms of price, like $2. I can still do that for you if you want, however.
Nah, if it's going to make barely a difference then I wouldn't want to do it. Thanks for checking if they'll have 7u stabs!
Post by: mogo on Mon, 16 May 2016, 21:42:26
Post by: breitling on Mon, 16 May 2016, 23:12:09
Post by: skuko on Tue, 17 May 2016, 03:47:00
/happydance
Post by: scramm on Tue, 17 May 2016, 11:43:14
Post by: Brammm87 on Wed, 18 May 2016, 08:06:00
Post by: breitling on Thu, 19 May 2016, 01:48:10
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
How does this firmware work? Does it work in windows? I've never seen one like this before..
Post by: scramm on Thu, 19 May 2016, 06:14:50
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
How does this firmware work? Does it work in windows? I've never seen one like this before..
It uses the TMK Firmware. You can customize it and then flash it to the keyboard with a tool. There are different options that work on windows, linux or macos (Someone correct me if I'm wrong).
Here's a good place to start for information on TMK:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0)
Post by: breitling on Thu, 19 May 2016, 17:34:31
After this ships, with the source code for the default firmware be made aavailable to us?
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
^thats the firmware
How does this firmware work? Does it work in windows? I've never seen one like this before..
It uses the TMK Firmware. You can customize it and then flash it to the keyboard with a tool. There are different options that work on windows, linux or macos (Someone correct me if I'm wrong).
Here's a good place to start for information on TMK:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=41989.0)
Oh okay, that clears it up. I have a few boards that use TMK which I program through enjoyclick or on my computer like the redscarf boards. Should be the same then I guess. Thanks!
Post by: scramm on Fri, 20 May 2016, 11:11:55
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 20 May 2016, 12:39:53
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 23 May 2016, 20:06:57
Post by: alexjd99 on Mon, 23 May 2016, 21:22:41
Post by: scramm on Tue, 24 May 2016, 08:59:51
Hype!
^^THIS! ;D
Post by: skuko on Tue, 24 May 2016, 09:08:38
Post by: scramm on Tue, 24 May 2016, 09:26:59
hyyyyyyyype! my first custom board :D
Same here, bought a new soldering station just for this project.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 24 May 2016, 09:28:08
Depending on when it will be delivered this will be either my first or second custom/non-mainstream board.
Will this board support any other lighting-options than dimming? I mean something among the lines of the QFR-i functions, or just any regional adjustments. I don't care if it does not, but if it does I'll be even more hyped.
Post by: mogo on Tue, 24 May 2016, 09:42:54
H Y P E
Post by: scramm on Sun, 29 May 2016, 18:21:33
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 31 May 2016, 01:17:18
Everything ordered?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Yep, now we wait for it all to get here :)
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 31 May 2016, 05:42:29
Everything ordered?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Yep, now we wait for it all to get here :)
Yay!
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 31 May 2016, 06:25:55
Yep, now we wait for it all to get here :)
Are we still in the expected time window?
Either way, if my parcel (under normal shipping circumstances) is not likely to arrive before the 26th of June here in germany, could you hold it for me for a short while and ship it so I can personally accept it when I'm back home on the 12th of July? I just want to be safe because if customs acts up I won't be able to get it from them in the timeframe they hold it for, my relatives that watch over the house also can't pick it up for me if something goes wrong.
Post by: scramm on Fri, 03 June 2016, 15:00:55
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 06 June 2016, 17:11:40
Yep, now we wait for it all to get here :)
Are we still in the expected time window?
Either way, if my parcel (under normal shipping circumstances) is not likely to arrive before the 26th of June here in germany, could you hold it for me for a short while and ship it so I can personally accept it when I'm back home on the 12th of July? I just want to be safe because if customs acts up I won't be able to get it from them in the timeframe they hold it for, my relatives that watch over the house also can't pick it up for me if something goes wrong.
PM'd on reddit
2 years of Amazon Prime has ruined my ability to be patient :'(
Gonna have to get used to the wait for most custom keyboard GB's :p
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 07 June 2016, 04:21:28
Post by: scramm on Tue, 07 June 2016, 06:03:12
I jumped on the Sentraq 60% Md and the Zealio R3 Pre-order. I'll be lucky if I'm building that one in August.
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 07 June 2016, 17:28:33
Yeah, this one will for sure be faster than others. The problem is I keep looking at/ordering more because I don't have anything to build yet :p
I jumped on the Sentraq 60% Md and the Zealio R3 Pre-order. I'll be lucky if I'm building that one in August.
Same issue here. I've got 130 zealios laying around and just ordered more because those are all going in different builds. I need to pace myself :p
Post by: scramm on Tue, 07 June 2016, 17:45:32
Same issue here. I've got 130 zealios laying around and just ordered more because those are all going in different builds. I need to pace myself :p
I only put in for 70 to do the 60% board.... now I'm thinking I should increase it so I can drop them in this board too if I really like them. Otherwise it will probably take 6 months to get more
Post by: Brammm87 on Wed, 08 June 2016, 08:56:28
I only put in for 70 to do the 60% board.... now I'm thinking I should increase it so I can drop them in this board too if I really like them. Otherwise it will probably take 6 months to get more
Building this and a Planck with the 78g ones I have laying around, ordered 67g's for a 60% build :p
Post by: scramm on Wed, 08 June 2016, 12:23:09
Building this and a Planck with the 78g ones I have laying around, ordered 67g's for a 60% build :p
I have no bearing on what these feel like so I don't know what the best weight to get is. are the 67s or even 78s anywhere near MX Greens for peak resistance before actuation? Right now all I own are mx blues and greens, and while I like the greens better, they cause too much fatigue for me to use all day at work.
my current order is for the 65g zealios, but I'm still contemplating asking to switch them before the order goes in.
Post by: breitling on Thu, 09 June 2016, 01:49:04
Building this and a Planck with the 78g ones I have laying around, ordered 67g's for a 60% build :p
I have no bearing on what these feel like so I don't know what the best weight to get is. are the 67s or even 78s anywhere near MX Greens for peak resistance before actuation? Right now all I own are mx blues and greens, and while I like the greens better, they cause too much fatigue for me to use all day at work.
my current order is for the 65g zealios, but I'm still contemplating asking to switch them before the order goes in.
67s are much lighter than mx greens to my fingers... but I bottom out when I type.
Post by: Waateva on Thu, 09 June 2016, 09:01:43
Building this and a Planck with the 78g ones I have laying around, ordered 67g's for a 60% build :p
I have no bearing on what these feel like so I don't know what the best weight to get is. are the 67s or even 78s anywhere near MX Greens for peak resistance before actuation? Right now all I own are mx blues and greens, and while I like the greens better, they cause too much fatigue for me to use all day at work.
my current order is for the 65g zealios, but I'm still contemplating asking to switch them before the order goes in.
I use Clears at home and Greens at work and the Clears are definitely a little lighter. I believe Zeal has said in the past that the 78g Zealios are slightly lighter than stock Clears, so if you went with 78g you would probably be happy with them, but 67g or 65g would be more comparable to Blues if I remember the actuation correctly.
Post by: scramm on Thu, 09 June 2016, 09:23:23
Building this and a Planck with the 78g ones I have laying around, ordered 67g's for a 60% build :p
I have no bearing on what these feel like so I don't know what the best weight to get is. are the 67s or even 78s anywhere near MX Greens for peak resistance before actuation? Right now all I own are mx blues and greens, and while I like the greens better, they cause too much fatigue for me to use all day at work.
my current order is for the 65g zealios, but I'm still contemplating asking to switch them before the order goes in.
I use Clears at home and Greens at work and the Clears are definitely a little lighter. I believe Zeal has said in the past that the 78g Zealios are slightly lighter than stock Clears, so if you went with 78g you would probably be happy with them, but 67g or 65g would be more comparable to Blues if I remember the actuation correctly.
Thanks, that helps :thumb: I sent a message to try to swap my order over to 67g. I think that's going to be what I want.
Post by: breitling on Thu, 09 June 2016, 15:03:24
I use Clears at home and Greens at work and the Clears are definitely a little lighter. I believe Zeal has said in the past that the 78g Zealios are slightly lighter than stock Clears, so if you went with 78g you would probably be happy with them, but 67g or 65g would be more comparable to Blues if I remember the actuation correctly.
I would mostly agree with that.. I have 62, 65 and 67g Zealios and the Blues are definitely lighter than the 67.. probably close to 62g. They are clicky though so its hard to compare directly. I compared my MX brown boards with my 62g Zealios board the zealios seem a bit heavier, though similar.. the tactile bump is heavier on the Zealios so its hard to compare.. also I have two MX Blue boards, and three mx brown boards and all of them feel slightly different from each other so that also kind of complicates things.
Post by: scramm on Fri, 10 June 2016, 11:17:46
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 12 June 2016, 18:22:38
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 14 June 2016, 01:15:56
So with June 15th right around the corner, can we get an update as to where this stands?
The PCB's and Cases have been delayed until June 28 by the manufacturer. Looks like June 15th was a best scenario case. I'll keep you guys updated as soon as something happens.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 14 June 2016, 05:52:29
So with June 15th right around the corner, can we get an update as to where this stands?
The PCB's and Cases have been delayed until June 28 by the manufacturer. Looks like June 15th was a best scenario case. I'll keep you guys updated as soon as something happens.
Thanks for the update dooders. I think we all kinda knew the 15th was a bit of a reach =/
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 14 June 2016, 10:02:09
So with June 15th right around the corner, can we get an update as to where this stands?
The PCB's and Cases have been delayed until June 28 by the manufacturer. Looks like June 15th was a best scenario case. I'll keep you guys updated as soon as something happens.
Thanks for the update dooders. I think we all kinda knew the 15th was a bit of a reach =/
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
Post by: redbanshee on Tue, 14 June 2016, 10:20:24
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
But the case is solid?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 14 June 2016, 10:21:33
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
Are you talking about in switch lighting? Because I thought this case didn't have any acrylic for case lighting.
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 14 June 2016, 10:35:38
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
But the case is solid?
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
Are you talking about in switch lighting? Because I thought this case didn't have any acrylic for case lighting.
Yes, case lighting. And although the case doesn't support it it's still an additional feature. It's cool to have if you ever want to DIY a case or find some other use for it.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 14 June 2016, 10:41:33
Yes, case lighting. And although the case doesn't support it it's still an additional feature. It's cool to have if you ever want to DIY a case or find some other use for it.
Is it just support for a LED-strip or are there on-PCB SMD LED's?
If it's LED-strip support and there is enough space between the PCB and the case for a LED-strip this would allow for semi-RGB-backlight with Zealios :D
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 14 June 2016, 14:48:41
Good news is that we found out RGB case lighting was supported. We just have to make the firmware to support it.
Are you talking about in switch lighting? Because I thought this case didn't have any acrylic for case lighting.
Yes, case lighting. And although the case doesn't support it it's still an additional feature. It's cool to have if you ever want to DIY a case or find some other use for it.
Ahh, cool either way! And I've got the same question askawasaki161.
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 16 June 2016, 21:16:53
Also, PCB's are done!
(https://i.imgur.com/KCdiORp.png)
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 16 June 2016, 21:55:55
Post by: mogo on Thu, 16 June 2016, 23:35:59
Post by: scramm on Fri, 17 June 2016, 13:20:13
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 17 June 2016, 19:19:07
(https://i.imgur.com/7aQYoSN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ovmOjqr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2fKNJZP.jpg)
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 17 June 2016, 20:15:50
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 18 June 2016, 08:25:37
Post by: skuko on Sun, 19 June 2016, 04:02:59
Post by: scramm on Sun, 19 June 2016, 11:59:08
Post by: breitling on Sun, 19 June 2016, 13:03:18
Hey, I forgot to ask this before, but are the Gateron switches going to have the clear switch tops or are they going to be the milky ones?
Says clear tops in the first post.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 19 June 2016, 14:06:00
Hey, I forgot to ask this before, but are the Gateron switches going to have the clear switch tops or are they going to be the milky ones?
Says clear tops in the first post.
Ahh sheet. I guess I should learn to read. Thanks for pointing it out.
Post by: scramm on Mon, 20 June 2016, 08:28:04
Cases are done being milled. Looks a bit rough as it hasn't been sandblasted or anodized yet.
Cases are looking good! How is everything else coming along?
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 22 June 2016, 21:43:45
Cases are done being milled. Looks a bit rough as it hasn't been sandblasted or anodized yet.
Cases are looking good! How is everything else coming along?
Now just waiting for PCB assembly, and the plates to be anodized. Just a bit longer!
Post by: breitling on Thu, 23 June 2016, 21:57:41
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 26 June 2016, 20:39:38
Interesting that it looks like they milled out most of the aluminum in the bottom of the case based on the post size instead of leaving it there for a heavier case like some of the customs do, especially when it seems like it would cost less to not mill it out.. unless I don't know what I'm talking about :D Which is possible.
In all honesty this completely slipped my mind, originally the board was supposed to have a usb hub daughter board that made it necessary. The case should still have some decent weight to it, on the plus side shipping is less because of it ;D .
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 26 June 2016, 20:50:48
Interesting that it looks like they milled out most of the aluminum in the bottom of the case based on the post size instead of leaving it there for a heavier case like some of the customs do, especially when it seems like it would cost less to not mill it out.. unless I don't know what I'm talking about :D Which is possible.
In all honesty this completely slipped my mind, originally the board was supposed to have a usb hub daughter board that made it necessary. The case should still have some decent weight to it, on the plus side shipping is less because of it ;D .
Speaking of which, whatever happened to the USB hub. I totally forgot about that feature.
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 26 June 2016, 21:09:59
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 26 June 2016, 21:34:02
As far as I know it ended up being an expensive pain in the butt that wouldn't have enough power to drive anything because of the amount of LEDs.
Ahh, that makes sense. I guess that's why most boards with a hub run 2 usb cables to the computer. Thanks for clarifying.
Post by: von_braun on Sun, 26 June 2016, 22:03:06
I've been away so long!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 26 June 2016, 23:22:24
Don't tell me i missed the group buy.
I've been away so long!
Umm... we're a week past the estimated ship date. I think ya missed it. Maybe Sentraq will have some extras after everything ships.
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 30 June 2016, 21:01:08
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 30 June 2016, 21:04:50
Post by: redbanshee on Thu, 30 June 2016, 21:23:33
All the parts are starting to arrive so I'll get some pics of that within a few days. Then I'll begin to ship, but LED's are a bit delayed (5ish days?) so I'll ship the orders without LED's first.
HYPE!! ;D
EnjoyPBT purple waiting on this bad boy
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 30 June 2016, 21:25:42
All the parts are starting to arrive so I'll get some pics of that within a few days. Then I'll begin to ship, but LED's are a bit delayed (5ish days?) so I'll ship the orders without LED's first.
HYPE!! ;D
EnjoyPBT purple waiting on this bad boy
Ha, nice. I've got EnjoyPBT Blue Cyrillic waiting for mine =D
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 30 June 2016, 22:39:15
Probably should have thought to ask this a while ago, but do the PBT key caps come with a short right shift or a split backspace to support all the different layouts the board can handle?
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 30 June 2016, 22:51:53
My Zealios and some other stuff already arrived, but I sadly can't do anything with that until I'm back home. But, since I'm on a roadtrip through mainly CA atm it allows me to pick up my first Topre Board at Elitekeyboards next week.
Please remember to delay my order long enough, so it does not arrive before the 13th.
Post by: Zanduby on Mon, 04 July 2016, 19:53:09
Post by: mogo on Mon, 04 July 2016, 22:23:28
Post by: Zanduby on Tue, 05 July 2016, 08:36:36
We haven't even received them yet! :p
Well then...
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 05 July 2016, 10:01:08
We haven't even received them yet! :p
Well then...
Maybe dooders will have extras
Post by: Zanduby on Tue, 05 July 2016, 10:15:18
Already PM'd him ;)We haven't even received them yet! :p
Well then...
Maybe dooders will have extras
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: scramm on Wed, 06 July 2016, 16:57:12
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 06 July 2016, 17:31:01
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 06 July 2016, 19:26:31
Bit of good news and bad news. Good news is that all the parts shipped and should be here by Friday or Monday. Bad news is I have to go on a trip for the whole of next week so I wouldn't be able to ship out this week :/
If they come this week I'll make sure to take a bunch of pics before leaving. I'll be back later next week, or the weekend after that. Sorry about this.
Post by: scramm on Wed, 06 July 2016, 19:29:30
Hey guys,
Bit of good news and bad news. Good news is that all the parts shipped and should be here by Friday or Monday. Bad news is I have to go on a trip for the whole of next week so I wouldn't be able to ship out this week :/
If they come this week I'll make sure to take a bunch of pics before leaving. I'll be back later next week, or the weekend after that. Sorry about this.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 06 July 2016, 19:44:47
Have fun on your trip!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 06 July 2016, 19:50:53
Post by: scramm on Thu, 07 July 2016, 09:17:29
I'll accept that as good news. Safe travels dooders!
Agreed. This means that we're only a couple weeks away! ;D
Post by: Brammm87 on Thu, 07 July 2016, 10:28:17
Post by: redbanshee on Sat, 16 July 2016, 18:31:46
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 16 July 2016, 19:29:14
Been a week and a half.... did this guy get back from vacation yet??
He said he'd be on a trip all this week. So hopefully shipping will start Monday or Tuesday.
Post by: redbanshee on Sat, 16 July 2016, 21:31:54
I see you! Keyboards getting shipped next week?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 16 July 2016, 21:36:42
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 18 July 2016, 09:49:23
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Post by: redbanshee on Mon, 18 July 2016, 09:52:21
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Lol, dont you think that may be asking a little much?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 18 July 2016, 09:56:47
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Lol, dont you think that may be asking a little much?
Probably not. Dooders should have a CAD file that would have been sent to the shop.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 18 July 2016, 10:36:03
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Lol, dont you think that may be asking a little much?
Why? He designed it, so he should be able to easily access that data.
It's also not like I want to steal his work in any way, I just want to make a plate for the board I ordered (which will also only support the layout I'm going to use, so no gaps except around the stabs), get one of those cut and be happy when the board arrives because I would already have the plate done and could start assembly right away. If he decides not to share that information I'd have to wait until the board arrives and measure it myself and then design the plate afterwards, but that would just uneccessarily delay assembly. One way or the other I'll get those measurements anyways, since it's also not really any covert information, I don't see dooders losing anything when giving me the measurements before the board arrives (other than the maybe 5 min it will take him to look that up).
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 18 July 2016, 20:34:28
(https://i.imgur.com/etFMh4B.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/7laKMh1.jpg)
If you ordered the dye-sub caps, you also get a plastic keycap holder as an extra :D
I'll also upload some more detailed pics later!
@kawasaki161 Give me a bit and I'll get them to you!
Also, I'm very sorry about the delays. The manufacturer promised that they could finish and ship everything by June 15th, but that hasn't exactly happened.
Post by: scramm on Mon, 18 July 2016, 20:38:13
Post by: mogo on Mon, 18 July 2016, 20:56:33
I'll ship the 6 working PCB's out right now starting with the people who ordered first.
(http://img.pandawhale.com/58669-so-youre-telling-me-theres-a-c-Sm9B.gif)
Also, I'm very sorry about the delays. The manufacturer promised that they could finish and ship everything by June 15th, but that hasn't exactly happened.
It's a bummer, no one can deny, but past GB's have proven that delays are definitely unpredictable and almost guaranteed. We appreciate you being communicative throughout the process, it definitely helps. :thumb:
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 18 July 2016, 21:16:02
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Tue, 19 July 2016, 00:13:50
Even with the delay this board will be solidly worth the wait!
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 19 July 2016, 00:32:36
The hype is very real, especially because I'm
Also thank you for looking for the measurements for me! As long as I get them a before the board arrives I'm happy.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 19 July 2016, 05:39:28
Thanks for the update.
The hype is very real, especially because I'm #6 on the spreadsheet.
Also thank you for looking for the measurements for me! As long as I get them a before the board arrives I'm happy.
You should give me your position on the sheet, this way your plate is sure to arrive before the rest of the parts ;)
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 19 July 2016, 07:53:52
You should give me your position on the sheet, this way your plate is sure to arrive before the rest of the parts ;)
Haha I think I'll pass on that offer, I've already got to deal with the long time international shipping takes.
I've also just realized that I see my exact order on the 3rd picture (minus the Gateron Blacks ofc), being the black case, purple plate and black dyesub caps (which are actually just stand-ins). I'm still wondering if I should get GMK Skeletor for this one or not.
Just wondering, will we get shipping notifications?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 19 July 2016, 08:14:59
You should give me your position on the sheet, this way your plate is sure to arrive before the rest of the parts ;)
Haha I think I'll pass on that offer, I've already got to deal with the long time international shipping takes.
I've also just realized that I see my exact order on the 3rd picture (minus the Gateron Blacks ofc), being the black case, purple plate and black dyesub caps (which are actually just stand-ins). I'm still wondering if I should get GMK Skeletor for this one or not.
Just wondering, will we get shipping notifications?
Fair enough. And that would definitely look awesome with Skelator!
Post by: redbanshee on Tue, 19 July 2016, 10:27:03
Post by: mogo on Tue, 19 July 2016, 16:57:16
Oh damn im #2? sick
I forgot the spreadsheet was available. #5 HYESSSSSS
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 19 July 2016, 17:00:02
Actually I'm #5 and you are #4, I also took a while to realize that the first row is still being numbered even though no one is in there.Oh damn im #2? sick
I forgot the spreadsheet was available. #5 HYESSSSSS
Post by: breitling on Tue, 19 July 2016, 18:30:23
Post by: mogo on Wed, 20 July 2016, 00:26:06
Actually I'm #5 and you are #4, I also took a while to realize that the first row is still being numbered even though no one is in there.Oh damn im #2? sick
I forgot the spreadsheet was available. #5 HYESSSSSS
Oop! Off-by-one error strikes again! Still WOO!
Post by: walter221 on Thu, 21 July 2016, 01:24:05
Post by: SlithyDash on Fri, 22 July 2016, 11:20:54
Hi, will this become available again? or will there be a bluetooth option later on?Oh man a Bluetooth version would be so sweet.
And to add to this set of questions, are you also planning to do a group buy for the left handed numpad version of the TK87? It's basically my dreamboard.
Post by: redbanshee on Fri, 22 July 2016, 11:37:38
Hi, will this become available again? or will there be a bluetooth option later on?Oh man a Bluetooth version would be so sweet.
And to add to this set of questions, are you also planning to do a group buy for the left handed numpad version of the TK87? It's basically my dreamboard.
considering the low turnout of the last GB (and complete failure of the massdrop GB) i wouldn't be surprised if this is never produced again
Post by: scramm on Fri, 22 July 2016, 11:39:22
But what if I need a second one after I build this one?Hi, will this become available again? or will there be a bluetooth option later on?Oh man a Bluetooth version would be so sweet.
And to add to this set of questions, are you also planning to do a group buy for the left handed numpad version of the TK87? It's basically my dreamboard.
considering the low turnout of the last GB (and complete failure of the massdrop GB) i wouldn't be surprised if this is never produced again
Post by: Zanduby on Fri, 22 July 2016, 11:40:40
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 22 July 2016, 23:19:52
Hi, will this become available again? or will there be a bluetooth option later on?Oh man a Bluetooth version would be so sweet.
And to add to this set of questions, are you also planning to do a group buy for the left handed numpad version of the TK87? It's basically my dreamboard.
Hi, will this become available again? or will there be a bluetooth option later on?
Don't think I'm going to get my hands on one of these. :(
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The left hand version will launch soon after, but with a cheaper winkeyless style acrylic case. We'll also most likely run the right hand version again later too, but not to sure when.
When can we finally start to hype again :)?
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Here you are:
(http://i.imgur.com/mreihoL.png)
Post by: SlithyDash on Fri, 22 July 2016, 23:32:24
The :) left hand version will launch soon after, but with a cheaper winkeyless style acrylic case. We'll also most likely run the right hand version again later too, but not to sure when.
;D WOOOO! That's great news. I will definitely be looking out for that group buy! :thumb:
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 23 July 2016, 06:46:33
When can we finally start to hype again :)?
On another note, do you mind giving me the inner case dimensions, the radius of the rounded corners and the exact placement and size of the screws? I'd love to design a 5mm Acrylic plate that sits flush with the case for my build, I'd love to get that done before the board arrives, so I can start building right away.
Here you are:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mreihoL.png)
Thank you very much.
Intense hype intensifies
Post by: Brammm87 on Sun, 24 July 2016, 05:30:14
The faulty PCB's are being shipped to me on the 21st and I will troubleshoot them and get them remade ASAP.
Wow, you have to debug the hardware yourself? Out of curiosity? Is this because there's a flaw in (your?) design or in the manufacturing process?
After waiting 7 months for my Whitefox, I guess I can wait a little bit on this as well :p
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 25 July 2016, 17:07:25
Any updates about what will ship and when?
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 25 July 2016, 18:01:08
The faulty PCB's are being shipped to me on the 21st and I will troubleshoot them and get them remade ASAP.
Wow, you have to debug the hardware yourself? Out of curiosity? Is this because there's a flaw in (your?) design or in the manufacturing process?
After waiting 7 months for my Whitefox, I guess I can wait a little bit on this as well :p
There's a lot of variation in PCB assembly services. Some places you give them a lot of money and they build your boards according to various ISO standards, do things like X-ray the completed assemblies checking for problems, etc. Other places you give them a little bit of money and they give your stack of PCB's to a guy who sits there with a pair of tweezers, an air gun, and a syringe of solder paste. If they don't work it's on you to fix them (or pay more to have them fixed.) Sometimes you think you're paying for a shop that operates like the first, and it turns out it's more like the second. Sometimes a shop does good for a while and then one batch is bad. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The only tricky component on this board is the QFN-44 MCU. Some assembly houses don't have much experience with qfn, and as a result they may not be as careful as is required. They're not hard to hand solder with an air gun, but they're easy to make a mistake on.
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 26 July 2016, 02:32:49
The faulty PCB's are being shipped to me on the 21st and I will troubleshoot them and get them remade ASAP.
Wow, you have to debug the hardware yourself? Out of curiosity? Is this because there's a flaw in (your?) design or in the manufacturing process?
After waiting 7 months for my Whitefox, I guess I can wait a little bit on this as well :p
There's a lot of variation in PCB assembly services. Some places you give them a lot of money and they build your boards according to various ISO standards, do things like X-ray the completed assemblies checking for problems, etc. Other places you give them a little bit of money and they give your stack of PCB's to a guy who sits there with a pair of tweezers, an air gun, and a syringe of solder paste. If they don't work it's on you to fix them (or pay more to have them fixed.) Sometimes you think you're paying for a shop that operates like the first, and it turns out it's more like the second. Sometimes a shop does good for a while and then one batch is bad. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The only tricky component on this board is the QFN-44 MCU. Some assembly houses don't have much experience with qfn, and as a result they may not be as careful as is required. They're not hard to hand solder with an air gun, but they're easy to make a mistake on.
Had no idea, thanks for the explanation!
Post by: aaron6301 on Fri, 29 July 2016, 20:28:45
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
Post by: redbanshee on Sat, 30 July 2016, 10:55:20
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 30 July 2016, 10:57:40
When are the first 6 going to be shipped? You said "right now", but that was 2 weeks ago and even after another week because of your vacation???? Ship them please? I know you have other buys going on but we dont really appreciate being shelved!
Look at the spreadsheet mate. If I'm not mistaken these are some kind of tracking numbers.
Post by: redbanshee on Sat, 30 July 2016, 11:06:17
Edit: i am a retard
Look at the spreadsheet mate. If I'm not mistaken these are some kind of tracking numbers.
ah fk i feel dumb now my bad !! sorry doodersbrother :-X :-\
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 01 August 2016, 00:53:13
Skullydazed very generously offered to take a look at the PCB's and see if he can figure out what's wrong with them. We also made a version of the PCB that uses the non-QFN version of the micro controller. We're getting that tested soon so if skully can't figure out what's wrong we have something to fall back on.
5/6 early kits have been shipped, and kawasaki I'll ship your first thing tomorrow. Sorry again everyone about the delay!
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 02 August 2016, 01:17:51
Post by: mogo on Fri, 05 August 2016, 01:08:52
Hey, for the 5 people who got their kits shipped early, please test to make sure every key works before soldering. Redbanshee warned me that his PCB seemed to have some issues such as it not registering keystrokes. We're still trying to figure out what's going wrong as the prototype worked flawlessly, but it seems more and more that the issue is with the controller and the soldering job with it.
How do you propose that we test it? Just solder in a few keys and test? Test something with a multimeter?
Post by: kawasaki161 on Fri, 05 August 2016, 03:34:02
How do you propose that we test it? Just solder in a few keys and test? Test something with a multimeter?
Conntect the PCB to the Computer and take something metallic (paperclip, tweezers, etc.) to connect the 2 holes the switch would connect when it is triggered, do so for every key covered in the standard firmware first. Let switch hitter or something similar run in the background so you know which ones you already tested. Once you are done and everything works you can either start building if you want to keep the standard layout, or adjust the layout in the firmware, flash the firmware and test the keys that have been changed before assembling (or, hopefully not, contacting dooders since something does not work).
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 10 August 2016, 05:08:27
@ the guys that already recieved their boards, got anything to say about it thus far?
Post by: mogo on Wed, 10 August 2016, 09:31:40
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 10 August 2016, 10:03:57
I see a tracking number :). If I could only get some info from the guy who said he'd do my plate, well unless there is some wonder going on he'll still have 1,5-2 weeks until I need it.
@ the guys that already recieved their boards, got anything to say about it thus far?
I had problems with cold solder joints on the MCU and various other jumped legs on the other chips, I also had broken off diodes. All these problems rendered my PCB useless so I de-soldered it and am waiting for a replacement. I would highly recommend a close visual inspection especially of the diodes around the edges of the PCB and for crooked resistors. Also plug it in before you solder anything in and test that it is actually detected by windows actually works (especially around the numpad area). Jump all the switch connections to insure they work before soldering or you will have a bad time.
There are also issues with the plate:
(http://i.imgur.com/MpVTfM8.jpg)
Notice the switch partially covering the hole making it so you have to insert the screw BEFORE you solder in the switches (!?) this happens in 2 places. Also note that the plate looks like it was rushed out the door and there are tons of burrs and jagged edges on them.
Overall pretty disappointed in this board. :confused:
Post by: scramm on Wed, 10 August 2016, 10:29:26
Notice the switch partially covering the hole making it so you have to insert the screw BEFORE you solder in the switches (!?) this happens in 2 places. Also note that the plate looks like it was rushed out the door and there are tons of burrs and jagged edges on them.
Did you get far enough in assembly to see if this caused fitment issues as far as the case, and key caps?
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 10 August 2016, 10:48:48
Notice the switch partially covering the hole making it so you have to insert the screw BEFORE you solder in the switches (!?) this happens in 2 places. Also note that the plate looks like it was rushed out the door and there are tons of burrs and jagged edges on them.
Did you get far enough in assembly to see if this caused fitment issues as far as the case, and key caps?
I did not put keycaps on it, so I cant tell you that. The PCB/Plate seemed to fit fine into the case iteself. But the screw issue was pretty annoying.
Also remember you need to program it first before you put it in the case, because there is no hole in the back of the case to press the bootloader button. :confused:
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 10 August 2016, 10:52:40
I had problems with cold solder joints on the MCU and various other jumped legs on the other chips, I also had broken off diodes. All these problems rendered my PCB useless so I de-soldered it and am waiting for a replacement. I would highly recommend a close visual inspection especially of the diodes around the edges of the PCB and for crooked resistors. Also plug it in before you solder anything in and test that it is actually detected by windows actually works (especially around the numpad area). Jump all the switch connections to insure they work before soldering or you will have a bad time.
Oh, seems like you've had a rather bad experience with it :(.
I know I'll get a different version of the PCB that was assembled somewhere else, so I hope I won't have any of those major problems, but I'll definitely test it thoroughly before assembly. I'll probably do it the following way: 1. Visually inspect, 2. Connect to PC and test the connections with the standard layout, 3. Build and flash firmware in my desired layout, 4. Test all connections again, 5. Start assembly. Better safe than sorry right?
Post by: breitling on Wed, 10 August 2016, 12:12:31
Notice the switch partially covering the hole making it so you have to insert the screw BEFORE you solder in the switches (!?) this happens in 2 places. Also note that the plate looks like it was rushed out the door and there are tons of burrs and jagged edges on them.
Did you get far enough in assembly to see if this caused fitment issues as far as the case, and key caps?
definitely some design issues... the easiest way to deal with that covered screw hole might be to file away the corner of the switch thats covering it.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 10 August 2016, 18:59:59
Overall pretty disappointed in this board. :confused:
This is pretty disheartening to hear after waiting so long for the TK78 to become a thing =/
Post by: redbanshee on Wed, 10 August 2016, 19:27:58
I know I'll get a different version of the PCB that was assembled somewhere else
This is not the case unfortunately, they are not on order to be re-made as far as I know. 19 of the PCBs are being examined and repaired due to poor fab-house work, unfortunately those that cannot be repaired will have to be re-manufactured.
This is pretty disheartening to hear after waiting so long for the TK78 to become a thing =/
Hopefully doodersbrother will be transparent with the issues at hand and address them in a timely manner. I mean, its damn sexy assembled, there are just some issues under the hood.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 10 August 2016, 20:29:54
This is pretty disheartening to hear after waiting so long for the TK78 to become a thing =/
Hopefully doodersbrother will be transparent with the issues at hand and address them in a timely manner. I mean, its damn sexy assembled, there are just some issues under the hood.
Hopefully, key word.
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 10 August 2016, 22:26:18
I know I'll get a different version of the PCB that was assembled somewhere else
This is not the case unfortunately, they are not on order to be re-made as far as I know. 19 of the PCBs are being examined and repaired due to poor fab-house work, unfortunately those that cannot be repaired will have to be re-manufactured.This is pretty disheartening to hear after waiting so long for the TK78 to become a thing =/
Hopefully doodersbrother will be transparent with the issues at hand and address them in a timely manner. I mean, its damn sexy assembled, there are just some issues under the hood.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean as I've been transparent about the GB throughout the whole process. I posted about delays as soon as I heard of them, admitted the issues with the PCB's, told you how I plan to fix them, and posted updates as I found out more about what was wrong with them.
The screws I bought worked fine with my test board that was made with the rest of the orders and used the exact same design. I didn't catch this because if the switches aren't perfectly aligned with PCB they will overhang just a bit on the plate. The most likely reason for the jagged edges is that the manufacturer rushed the process because they were behind schedule. The PCB manufacturer I used is the same one used by a few well known companies so I didn't think there would be any problems.
Right now skully is helping to reflow the MCU's which were what was causing the issues. It's not going to be very quick as we have to go through each board one by one, but we are making good progress.
Also, I already ordered more screws that are smaller so hopefully those will get here soon.
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 10 August 2016, 22:28:55
I know I'll get a different version of the PCB that was assembled somewhere else
This is not the case unfortunately, they are not on order to be re-made as far as I know. 19 of the PCBs are being examined and repaired due to poor fab-house work, unfortunately those that cannot be repaired will have to be re-manufactured.
It is the case. He's getting a board that was assembled by a different house during prototyping. I shipped that to him because you warned me that the PCB's I thought were fine weren't so I wanted to be sure.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 11 August 2016, 08:02:01
Right now skully is helping to reflow the MCU's which were what was causing the issues. It's not going to be very quick as we have to go through each board one by one, but we are making good progress.
Also, I already ordered more screws that are smaller so hopefully those will get here soon.
Thanks Dooders and Skully for all your hard work and making sure these go out just right. <3
Think you'll be sending them out one by one or waiting to get 5 or 6 fixed before doing shipping?
Post by: mogo on Thu, 11 August 2016, 09:56:55
More
(http://i.imgur.com/bmpLFbF.jpg)
E X C I T E
(http://i.imgur.com/r0jRevs.jpg)
Plug 'er in
(http://i.imgur.com/aCcVUsB.jpg)
It shows up, name and everything :D (yes, i could have done a screenshot but the phone was in my hands and i derped and took a picture anyways)
(http://i.imgur.com/Fyua7Hc.jpg)
Testing with a jumper.
(http://i.imgur.com/XPReaFn.jpg)
Num2, come in Num2
(http://i.imgur.com/oYfLntv.png)
My disappoint is enormous. Everything on the board works except for Num2, one of the very last keys I got around to testing. So... what now? :(
E X C I T E
(http://i.imgur.com/r0jRevs.jpg)
Plug 'er in
(http://i.imgur.com/aCcVUsB.jpg)
It shows up, name and everything :D (yes, i could have done a screenshot but the phone was in my hands and i derped and took a picture anyways)
(http://i.imgur.com/Fyua7Hc.jpg)
Testing with a jumper.
(http://i.imgur.com/XPReaFn.jpg)
Num2, come in Num2
(http://i.imgur.com/oYfLntv.png)
My disappoint is enormous. Everything on the board works except for Num2, one of the very last keys I got around to testing. So... what now? :(
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 11 August 2016, 10:16:38
Everything on the board works except for Num2, one of the very last keys I got around to testing. So... what now? :(
There seem to be quite a lot of points where you can check if the actual trace is the problem, just measure from the controller to the pads to find on which trace the problem is. Then go along that trace and look for damage, check the diode (if there is one on that side) and be sure to measure the connection from the small pads on the trace to the end pad. Damn that's hard to explain.
I hope it's just a dead diode.
Post by: mogo on Thu, 11 August 2016, 11:27:39
I'll see if I can't figure out what that means when I get home this afternoon :P Thanks KawasakiEverything on the board works except for Num2, one of the very last keys I got around to testing. So... what now? :(
There seem to be quite a lot of points where you can check if the actual trace is the problem, just measure from the controller to the pads to find on which trace the problem is. Then go along that trace and look for damage, check the diode (if there is one on that side) and be sure to measure the connection from the small pads on the trace to the end pad. Damn that's hard to explain.
I hope it's just a dead diode.
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 11 August 2016, 22:57:13
I'll see if I can't figure out what that means when I get home this afternoon :P Thanks KawasakiEverything on the board works except for Num2, one of the very last keys I got around to testing. So... what now? :(
There seem to be quite a lot of points where you can check if the actual trace is the problem, just measure from the controller to the pads to find on which trace the problem is. Then go along that trace and look for damage, check the diode (if there is one on that side) and be sure to measure the connection from the small pads on the trace to the end pad. Damn that's hard to explain.
I hope it's just a dead diode.
Hey, any luck? Looking at the diode for numbed 2, does it look damaged or the soldering sloppy? If not, do you have a multimeter?
Post by: mogo on Fri, 12 August 2016, 09:31:01
[attachimg=1]
Found the diode at the bottom of the static bag. Should be a matter of careful resoldering, though I've not done solders this tiny and precise yet. Should be fun!
Post by: mogo on Sat, 13 August 2016, 02:23:12
[attach=1]
As carefully as I could, I re-seated the resistor back onto Num2 and tapped some solder onto it.
[attach=2]
It was scary and I tried to be as careful and precise as my big hands can allow, but GOOD NEWS, it worked! All keys are registering and I can move on to the next steps! Much thanks to Kawasaki161 and Doodersbrother. :thumb:
Post by: Brammm87 on Sat, 13 August 2016, 05:52:00
GOOD NEWS
(http://www.memegasms.com/media/created/vhyfxm.jpg)
Happy you managed to fix it!
Post by: mogo on Sat, 13 August 2016, 12:29:43
I was thinking more of aGOOD NEWSShow Image(http://www.memegasms.com/media/created/vhyfxm.jpg)
Happy you managed to fix it!
(https://cdn.meme.am/instances/60902772.jpg)
but that works too! :b
Post by: Brammm87 on Sat, 13 August 2016, 18:37:50
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 13 August 2016, 19:00:07
Show Image(http://cdn2.carbuyer.co.uk/sites/carbuyer_d7/files/jato_uploaded/dacia-sandero-stepway-2013-front-quarter-static.jpg)
wut?
Post by: mogo on Sun, 14 August 2016, 00:58:24
He gets it. :thumb:Show Image(http://cdn2.carbuyer.co.uk/sites/carbuyer_d7/files/jato_uploaded/dacia-sandero-stepway-2013-front-quarter-static.jpg)
I'm working on lasering my own acrylic sandwich case for my 78, trying to get the hole shape just right. Then I wait on a bunch of MX clears...
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 14 August 2016, 04:43:08
(http://puu.sh/qAPUH/be5e5152cc.png)
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 14 August 2016, 09:26:33
Uhm, any idea what it means that it is in "Acceptance" for so long? I've never had that happen before.Show Image(http://puu.sh/qAPUH/be5e5152cc.png)
It means it was dropped off and scanned at that post office, but hasn't been scanned since. Sometimes that happens when they don't scan a package before tossing it into a cage. It won't be scanned again until the packages in that cage are resorted into new cages at a distribution center somewhere. For an international package that can take a few days.
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 14 August 2016, 09:30:15
I've been doing a couple a day, focusing first on the boards that look the best. I have a handful done but will be putting them on hold for a couple days while I do a little traveling. I'll be back on Wednesday and should be back to fixing boards on Thursday.
Next Saturday I'll be packing and and mailing all completed boards to doodersbrothers. That way we can start to get some of these boards out before I get them all fixed. At my current rate of progress I should have as many fixed as is possible to fix by the end of the month.
Post by: breitling on Sun, 14 August 2016, 17:19:44
Hi Everyone, I just wanted to give an update on board repair progress.
I've been doing a couple a day, focusing first on the boards that look the best. I have a handful done but will be putting them on hold for a couple days while I do a little traveling. I'll be back on Wednesday and should be back to fixing boards on Thursday.
Next Saturday I'll be packing and and mailing all completed boards to doodersbrothers. That way we can start to get some of these boards out before I get them all fixed. At my current rate of progress I should have as many fixed as is possible to fix by the end of the month.
thanks for helping out to fix the boards! glad you were able to diagnose the issues and resolve the problems... looking forward to receiving mine!!
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 17 August 2016, 16:13:39
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 17 August 2016, 17:49:40
Tracking is still chillin' at Acceptance... am I worrying too much? I've read way too many horror stories about shipping companies by now and this is really one of the things where I really would prefer that it does not get lost.
You're worrying too much.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 17 August 2016, 17:50:53
Post by: tj_gee on Thu, 18 August 2016, 07:03:26
Love it. I'll probably switch my Granite set over to it today since the dark grey set that came with this board doesn't support split right shift. Oops.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 18 August 2016, 07:30:00
the dark grey set that came with this board doesn't support split right shift
Uh, that's unfortunate... I also ordered that set and want to go split right shift, ah well, I'll probably have another set by then if USPS stays at the same pace ;).
Post by: tj_gee on Thu, 18 August 2016, 15:05:32
Here's the two: http://i.imgur.com/KvyeM4w.jpg
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 18 August 2016, 17:58:30
I really like the colors of the dark grey set, but I like having a split right shift more!
Here's the two: http://i.imgur.com/KvyeM4w.jpg
It looks great! I can't wait to get to build mine!
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 18 August 2016, 22:30:55
I have my board assembled and I'm using it to type this post.
Love it. I'll probably switch my Granite set over to it today since the dark grey set that came with this board doesn't support split right shift. Oops.
Bummer on the lack of short shift guess I'll be waiting for my Mito Overcast set to come in to really get my clack on since I lack the keycaps to do the layout I want :(
Post by: breitling on Thu, 18 August 2016, 22:45:40
I really like the colors of the dark grey set, but I like having a split right shift more!
Here's the two: http://i.imgur.com/KvyeM4w.jpg
Looks great! I think the way you have the caps now suit the boards better anyway!
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 19 August 2016, 18:23:45
About 4 more PCB's were fixed so once I get those I'll ship those out. The manufacturer will also remake some and test to make sure they work.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Fri, 19 August 2016, 18:34:20
Hey guys,
About 4 more PCB's were fixed so once I get those I'll ship those out. The manufacturer will also remake some and test to make sure they work.
Great news for the next few people!
When you are at the post office and my tracking info did not change until then would you mind asking them what is going on with it? Mainly for my peace of mind (I just can't stop worrying) and also because their E-Mail support is down, so the only way I could ask would be an international call.
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 20 August 2016, 06:15:09
Hey guys,
About 4 more PCB's were fixed so once I get those I'll ship those out. The manufacturer will also remake some and test to make sure they work.
Great news for the next few people!
When you are at the post office and my tracking info did not change until then would you mind asking them what is going on with it? Mainly for my peace of mind (I just can't stop worrying) and also because their E-Mail support is down, so the only way I could ask would be an international call.
Usually the workers there have no idea whats going on with individual packages so I'll give them a call instead.
Post by: Bumbibear on Sat, 20 August 2016, 08:55:00
Hey guys,
About 4 more PCB's were fixed so once I get those I'll ship those out. The manufacturer will also remake some and test to make sure they work.
So that means I should hopefully receive my order soon! :D
Maybe USPS will be kinder when shipping to Sweden compared to Germany :p
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 20 August 2016, 19:18:47
So that means I should hopefully receive my order soon! :D
Woot! Me too =]
Post by: tj_gee on Sun, 21 August 2016, 15:19:12
They say it's better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all, but this feels pretty crappy.
Post by: mogo on Sun, 21 August 2016, 23:40:55
Post by: wodan on Mon, 22 August 2016, 00:06:01
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 22 August 2016, 02:03:13
Eeew sounds like a SMT USB port. Always go through-hole for USB ports!
The ports are actually the best of both worlds- SMT for the 5 USB pins and THT for the shield pins. That way the shield has a good mechanical connection to the board to hold the connector into place, while the data pins have the lower noise advantage of SMT.
However, it sounds like something wasn't soldered quite correctly. tj_gee, if you can open the board to retrieve the connector and take a picture of it (preferably both the top and bottom sides) I can look into what it is that failed in your case.
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 22 August 2016, 15:18:51
Well I unhooked my TK78 to take it to use on another computer across the house so my girlfriend could try it out on her PC and when I got there, I didn't have a MiniUSB port to connect the cable to. The port is now rattling around the inside of the case because it detached from the PCB.
They say it's better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all, but this feels pretty crappy.
Wow, that's really crappy. Another reason to be sure your PCB manufacturer isn't shoddy. Hopefully you'll be able to solder it back on :/
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 23 August 2016, 16:09:12
Post by: tj_gee on Wed, 24 August 2016, 22:32:34
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 25 August 2016, 03:13:59
(http://i.imgur.com/T3UtxcK.jpg)
Well let's see what is inside
(http://i.imgur.com/7Up38wc.jpg)
WELL F*CK YEAH. I would have been happy if I was sure that is safely left the states now, but that also works.
Still untested, will report back if anything goes wrong... now I've got to speed up the Acrylic plate process!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 25 August 2016, 06:06:44
So, uuh the mailman just woke me up and gave me a strange box :confused:.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/T3UtxcK.jpg)
Well let's see what is insideShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/7Up38wc.jpg)
WELL F*CK YEAH. I would have been happy if I was sure that is safely left the states now, but that also works.
Still untested, will report back if anything goes wrong... now I've got to speed up the Acrylic plate process!
Nice. I'm glad you finally got it!
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 25 August 2016, 09:04:10
First of all the plate quality was already mentioned, but also was not great on my board.
Then, the included stabilizers really disappointed me. They are the same ones that were included in my KC60 kit from Aliexpress, so they were Chinese copys of the old Cherry design which needs no clipping, but the wires are too thin and the holes for the wires are too big. Even with different wires they were rattling all over the place :( . So if you don't like rattly stabs you now have the time to order some before your board arrives :thumb: .
The next thing probably is only a problem for me (because of the different PCB), but the PCB did not have holes for all mounting points, the one in the lower middle can not be used now.
Next is something that is really important though. I did a quick test fit, because I thought about streaming the assembly of this board (would be really bad if there were any major problems on stream). After having to make the PCB mount pegs of the Zealios fit (the PCB seems to be designed to Cherry spec, definitely not an error of some sort) I screwed the PCB in and realized that the bottom row switches started popping out... Well, the PCB standoffs are not tall enough to provide enough clearance between the case and the switch pins, so the whole bottom row shorts out. So I thought a washer will fix this, after grabbing one I realized that the screws are too short when a washer is used, so I measured the screws and they seem to be imperial which makes it a real task finding them in Germany (great). I now put a thin layer of foam into the case to prevent any contact of the pins with the metal, it seems like that does indeed barely fit.
If I paid the Massdrop price for this I would be really mad now. But everything seems like it is rather easily solvable, so I will now wait until my plate is done and see what the future brings.
Here is my mockup with some caps that weren't even meant for this board (looks really great imo, can't wait for the plate to arrive):
(http://i.imgur.com/jO4ikTF.jpg)
Post by: tj_gee on Fri, 26 August 2016, 20:16:47
And the guy's description of what he thinks happened:
Quote
Looks like a cold solder to me as there's almost no disruption to the solder pads on the board which for a "normal" break like this I would expect the pads to be partially lifted or quite a bit of solder stuck to the connector itself. Connector is very clean, looks like there's some glue residue on the PCB and connector
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 30 August 2016, 18:55:48
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 30 August 2016, 19:48:18
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 31 August 2016, 00:23:58
Thanks for the update dooders. When you say replacements, is that just for the remaining ones that skully hasn't repaired?
Yes. I'm assuming I won't be able to repair all of them. I dropped the package for doodersbrothers off earlier today but I don't know if it made it onto today's truck. He should have them in a couple days. Unfortunately I have a lot going on trying to get ready to receive Nantucket Selectric, I didn't make progress on the boards as quickly as I hoped.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 31 August 2016, 07:22:49
Thanks for the update dooders. When you say replacements, is that just for the remaining ones that skully hasn't repaired?
Yes. I'm assuming I won't be able to repair all of them. I dropped the package for doodersbrothers off earlier today but I don't know if it made it onto today's truck. He should have them in a couple days. Unfortunately I have a lot going on trying to get ready to receive Nantucket Selectric, I didn't make progress on the boards as quickly as I hoped.
Thanks for the info. I really appreciate you trying to repair as many as possible!
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 06 September 2016, 18:18:02
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 06 September 2016, 19:23:07
The next three kits have been shipped out! Tracking numbers are in the spreadsheet.
Aww yis! I can't wait =D
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 06 September 2016, 19:56:50
The next three kits have been shipped out! Tracking numbers are in the spreadsheet.
Aww yis! I can't wait =D
Make sure to test all the keys before soldering switches haha
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 06 September 2016, 20:40:38
The next three kits have been shipped out! Tracking numbers are in the spreadsheet.
Aww yis! I can't wait =D
Make sure to test all the keys before soldering switches haha
Absolutely! Thanks for the reminder though.
Post by: alexjd99 on Wed, 07 September 2016, 19:03:03
I assume you make your layout in Keyboard Layout Editor and then put that into the TMK generator, from what I've read on here, however I can't figure out what columns and rows to use for it. (I'm also assuming it's Krimea, not the two headed.) I'm putting 5 rows * 19 columns, so I don't think I'm messing anything up there.
Am I doing something wrong here? If so, could anyone help me with this? This is only my third board I've really programmed without a GUI, and the other two had easy step by step guides for them, so I'm pretty inexperienced with this kind of programming.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 07 September 2016, 19:44:27
https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r
I believe this is the official TMK fork for TK78. All of the information you should need is there and in the original TMK repo (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/tmk_core) and the one from Jack Humbert (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/tmk_core).
Sorry, links should be correct now
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 08 September 2016, 12:47:59
(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
Post by: kawasaki161 on Thu, 08 September 2016, 12:56:31
I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
That's great. I also love Fugus... but no luck in raffles for me.
I'm still waiting on my custom plate to finish production (IT TAKES TOO LONG). I should really start doing my final layout.
Has anyone already figured out how to make the numpad switch layers via numlock like on the Quickfire TK?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 08 September 2016, 13:09:08
I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
That's great. I also love Fugus... but no luck in raffles for me.
I'm still waiting on my custom plate to finish production (IT TAKES TOO LONG). I should really start doing my final layout.
Has anyone already figured out how to make the numpad switch layers via numlock like on the Quickfire TK?
I'll be putting mine together over the weekend, so I can let you know after that. First I have to thoroughly check the PCB and SIP socket my switches then I can begin.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 08 September 2016, 14:21:20
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 08 September 2016, 15:01:01
I can't seem to get my PCB into reset mode. I've tried clicking the button and holding it but it isn't registered by dfu or the teensy loader. Am I doing something wrong?
I'm going to assume that it's functioning as a keyboard, it's probably a driver issue. Try installing skully's qmk firmware loader, it comes with the appropriate drivers and it works really well for flashing any hex :D
Post by: alexjd99 on Thu, 08 September 2016, 15:23:31
Is my PCB kill? I haven't done anything to it at all, so this seems a little strange that it would be doing this
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 08 September 2016, 16:30:29
I can't seem to get my PCB into reset mode. I've tried clicking the button and holding it but it isn't registered by dfu or the teensy loader. Am I doing something wrong?
I'm going to assume that it's functioning as a keyboard, it's probably a driver issue. Try installing skully's qmk firmware loader, it comes with the appropriate drivers and it works really well for flashing any hex :D
Thanks dooders. I'll give that a try.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 08 September 2016, 17:25:00
New problem. I build the default TK78 firmware from here (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r) but no keys register. Is this firmware out of date and should I be using something else?
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 09 September 2016, 16:05:27
(http://i63.tinypic.com/e0rgg.png)
It shows up in device manager for a second or two at a time between throwing that error and looks like this
(http://i63.tinypic.com/90wmyp.png)
I can't manage to get windows to shut up long enough to get any other real info though :/
Same deal on two separate Windows 10 PCs, and Ubuntu doesn't see it at all with dfu-util or lsusb
Any advice? I have a pretty strong feeling that I'm the weak link on this one.
Post by: skullydazed on Fri, 09 September 2016, 22:47:41
I can't manage to get windows to shut up long enough to get any other real info though :/
Same deal on two separate Windows 10 PCs, and Ubuntu doesn't see it at all with dfu-util or lsusb
Any advice? I have a pretty strong feeling that I'm the weak link on this one.
When it wants to search windows update for a driver you have to cancel. If the automated install didn't work you'll need to install the drivers manually, you can find them in the C:\Program Files\QMK Firmware Flasher folder.
On your Ubuntu machine you should be using dfu-programmer. dfu-util is for a different MCU.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sat, 10 September 2016, 00:59:14
I can't manage to get windows to shut up long enough to get any other real info though :/
Same deal on two separate Windows 10 PCs, and Ubuntu doesn't see it at all with dfu-util or lsusb
Any advice? I have a pretty strong feeling that I'm the weak link on this one.
When it wants to search windows update for a driver you have to cancel. If the automated install didn't work you'll need to install the drivers manually, you can find them in the C:\Program Files\QMK Firmware Flasher folder.
On your Ubuntu machine you should be using dfu-programmer. dfu-util is for a different MCU.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm starting to think I might be suffering from serious ID10T issues, but I still can't get the board to do anything productive.
I can't get windows to stop disconnecting and reconnecting it long enough to do anything with drivers consistently and the few times I do get into the drivers before it disconnects and reconnects it just says nah we picked the best one like this:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/ta380y.png)
And on the Ubuntu I have dfu-programmer and dfu-util but I can't find the board as a target for dfu-programmer and was hoping dfu-util -list would help me find it, but no luck, so no love for the flashing that way :/
Edit:
And I may be way off base here, but shouldn't it come with the default firmware already flashed? So it should just be a plug in receive enough of a keyboard to test the switches and then hit the reset button to reprogram it to my desired layout? I might be an idiot but I don't recall my Infinity 60% taking anywhere near this much fighting to get it to do anything at all.
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 10 September 2016, 11:09:53
Edit:
And I may be way off base here, but shouldn't it come with the default firmware already flashed? So it should just be a plug in receive enough of a keyboard to test the switches and then hit the reset button to reprogram it to my desired layout? I might be an idiot but I don't recall my Infinity 60% taking anywhere near this much fighting to get it to do anything at all.
Yes. It should operate as a keyboard even without flashing. You're getting resets even in normal operating mode? That's unusual and shouldn't be happening.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 10 September 2016, 12:23:29
I would really be interested in knowing if it is possible to make the status of Numlock switch layers, or at least have a function that switches Numlock as well as switches to the other layer. On the latter one I know that it is possible to make one keypress press a combo, but I don't know if some way of sensing which state of Numlock the system is in is possible, I also don't know if using a function that refers to another function would cause problems.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sat, 10 September 2016, 13:15:47
Yes. It should operate as a keyboard even without flashing. You're getting resets even in normal operating mode? That's unusual and shouldn't be happening.
Well fudgey nutkins. I am getting the resets regardless of pushing reset and as soon as I plug the board in. Does that mean the board made a dead? :'(
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 10 September 2016, 13:32:21
Yes. It should operate as a keyboard even without flashing. You're getting resets even in normal operating mode? That's unusual and shouldn't be happening.
Well fudgey nutkins. I am getting the resets regardless of pushing reset and as soon as I plug the board in. Does that mean the board made a dead? :'(
PM incoming.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 10 September 2016, 17:30:19
Where is the firmware for this board supposed to be pulled from? The reason that I ask is I built and flashed the above firmware to no avail.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 10 September 2016, 17:54:07
Skully, is this (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r) still the appropriate TK78 firmware? I see that in the base directory you say "This repository is obsolete!" with a link to QMK, but you do not have a QMK directory for the TK78.
Where is the firmware for this board supposed to be pulled from? The reason that I ask is I built and flashed the above firmware to no avail.
It worked for me though, I'll upload my current .hex first thing when I wake up. If it works for you, you did something wrong when compiling it, when it doesn't you either have a problem flashing or the PCB is different than the prototype the firmware was made for and definitely works with.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 10 September 2016, 19:09:22
Skully, is this (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r) still the appropriate TK78 firmware? I see that in the base directory you say "This repository is obsolete!" with a link to QMK, but you do not have a QMK directory for the TK78.
Where is the firmware for this board supposed to be pulled from? The reason that I ask is I built and flashed the above firmware to no avail.
It worked for me though, I'll upload my current .hex first thing when I wake up. If it works for you, you did something wrong when compiling it, when it doesn't you either have a problem flashing or the PCB is different than the prototype the firmware was made for and definitely works with.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
I don't think I built it wrong because I've had no issues building TMK and QMK for the planck I hand wired a few months back.
Also, I am a dev but C and C++ is not exactly my forte. So it's definitely possible I did something wrong. I flashed with skully's DFU ladder. And it said it flashed fine.
Post by: deductivemonkee on Sat, 10 September 2016, 20:07:28
I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
I will not ignore the fugus.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 10 September 2016, 20:11:30
I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
I will not ignore the fugus.
=D
Post by: deductivemonkee on Sat, 10 September 2016, 20:14:21
Send me the first one :)I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
I will not ignore the fugus.
=D
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 10 September 2016, 20:23:14
Send me the first one :)I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
I will not ignore the fugus.
=D
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Nevaaaa
Post by: deductivemonkee on Sat, 10 September 2016, 20:23:44
Send me the fourth one :DSend me the first one :)I got something to do this weekend! :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/689Hzqk.jpg)
... ignore the Fugus =P
I will not ignore the fugus.
=D
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Nevaaaa
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Post by: alexjd99 on Sat, 10 September 2016, 21:11:58
I've been trying for days to flash it, but I'm too inexperienced with this (the other boards I've programmed have been much easier/had less problems), and I haven't even been able to test the PCB to see if the keys register. I'm also going to be way too busy to work on building it soon, so I'm looking to pay someone to just do it for me.
I have all the parts, so all I would need is to flash they keyboard and assemble it (the main one is flashing it though, but I'd assume you would want to assemble it to make sure all is working properly).
I've tried working with TMK in the past, and did have some troubles, although I was eventually able to figure it out. The group buys for those boards however had much more detailed instructions, but this is just beyond me like I said. I've looked at all instructions and no matter what I do, it just won't work out for me. So yeah, please PM me and hopefully we can work something out ;D
Post by: skullydazed on Sat, 10 September 2016, 21:18:16
Skully, is this (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r) still the appropriate TK78 firmware? I see that in the base directory you say "This repository is obsolete!" with a link to QMK, but you do not have a QMK directory for the TK78.
Where is the firmware for this board supposed to be pulled from? The reason that I ask is I built and flashed the above firmware to no avail.
Yes, I haven't had a chance to port this over to QMK yet like I have for most of my other keyboards. The monarch is in the same boat, actually.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 11 September 2016, 04:07:37
It worked for me though, I'll upload my current .hex first thing when I wake up. If it works for you, you did something wrong when compiling it, when it doesn't you either have a problem flashing or the PCB is different than the prototype the firmware was made for and definitely works with.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
I don't think I built it wrong because I've had no issues building TMK and QMK for the planck I hand wired a few months back.
Also, I am a dev but C and C++ is not exactly my forte. So it's definitely possible I did something wrong. I flashed with skully's DFU ladder. And it said it flashed fine.
Here is my .hex (http://puu.sh/r7jY5/1207592f76.hex)
Here is my keymap (http://puu.sh/r7k0j/c71a25d68a.c) (Just so you know what should and shouldn't happen)
I flashed using QMK firmware flasher (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82505.0).
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 06:53:49
It worked for me though, I'll upload my current .hex first thing when I wake up. If it works for you, you did something wrong when compiling it, when it doesn't you either have a problem flashing or the PCB is different than the prototype the firmware was made for and definitely works with.
Thanks. Much appreciated.
I don't think I built it wrong because I've had no issues building TMK and QMK for the planck I hand wired a few months back.
Also, I am a dev but C and C++ is not exactly my forte. So it's definitely possible I did something wrong. I flashed with skully's DFU ladder. And it said it flashed fine.
Here is my .hex (http://puu.sh/r7jY5/1207592f76.hex)
Here is my keymap (http://puu.sh/r7k0j/c71a25d68a.c) (Just so you know what should and shouldn't happen)
I flashed using QMK firmware flasher (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82505.0).
Thanks. I'll give this a try a little later today.
Skully, is this (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r) still the appropriate TK78 firmware? I see that in the base directory you say "This repository is obsolete!" with a link to QMK, but you do not have a QMK directory for the TK78.
Where is the firmware for this board supposed to be pulled from? The reason that I ask is I built and flashed the above firmware to no avail.
Yes, I haven't had a chance to port this over to QMK yet like I have for most of my other keyboards. The monarch is in the same boat, actually.
Ahh okay. When I get this up and running with TMK I might port it over to QMK.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 11:53:38
After flashing with skully's dfu-programmer and reconnecting they PCB, it is not recognized. I get the below message from Windows.
(http://i.imgur.com/am540cc.png)
Any suggestions?
Edit:
I had manually installed the driver from the dfu-programmer zip but when I go into Device Manager it says that drivers are up to date but can not recognize the usb device.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 11 September 2016, 12:12:15
Which OS are you running on and do you have the option to try a different PC?
Maybe something wonky happened with the Atmel drivers.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 12:16:02
That... shouldn't happen, at least it doesn't for me (but I guess you already figured that out by now)
Which OS are you running on and do you have the option to try a different PC?
Maybe something wonky happened with the Atmel drivers.
I'm on Windows 8. And yes, I tried on another machine (also Win8 though). I guess it's possible that something happened with the driver, but I don't see any way to uninstall the driver and reload it.
When I got it, it wasn't recognized at all (by the dfu loader) until I manually installed the driver.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 11 September 2016, 12:24:54
That... shouldn't happen, at least it doesn't for me (but I guess you already figured that out by now)
Which OS are you running on and do you have the option to try a different PC?
Maybe something wonky happened with the Atmel drivers.
I'm on Windows 8. And yes, I tried on another machine (also Win8 though). I guess it's possible that something happened with the driver, but I don't see any way to uninstall the driver and reload it.
When I got it, it wasn't recognized at all (by the dfu loader) until I manually installed the driver.
Hmm, I'm kinda at a loss here since I never had any problems.
What exactly happened until now and what did you try already, from before you connected the board the first time until now?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 12:32:52
That... shouldn't happen, at least it doesn't for me (but I guess you already figured that out by now)
Which OS are you running on and do you have the option to try a different PC?
Maybe something wonky happened with the Atmel drivers.
I'm on Windows 8. And yes, I tried on another machine (also Win8 though). I guess it's possible that something happened with the driver, but I don't see any way to uninstall the driver and reload it.
When I got it, it wasn't recognized at all (by the dfu loader) until I manually installed the driver.
Hmm, I'm kinda at a loss here since I never had any problems.
What exactly happened until now and what did you try already, from before you connected the board the first time until now?
So the first thing that I tried was plugging it in and trying to cross a connection. Since nothing happened. I built the TMK firmware but the board wasn't recognized by the cli dfu loader, installed skully's dfu loader but still not recognized. So I opened Device Manager and installed the driver that came with the dfu programmer. Now that it was recognized by the dfu programmer I tried flashing the default firmware that I built; nothing. Flashed the hex file that you sent me; nothing. It continues to be not recognized by windows, but shows that drivers are up to date compared to the version that I have (since that's the one that I installed).
I hope that all makes sense.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 11 September 2016, 13:06:40
I hope that all makes sense.
The stuff happening does not make sense, your explanation does though.
What does it show up as in the device manager?
I just remembered I had something similar with a bad cable once, but you probably tried that already.
I'll connect mine to a few different PC's that have never had anything similar attached later. Maybe something interesting happens.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 13:13:27
The stuff happening does not make sense, your explanation does though.
What does it show up as in the device manager?
I just remembered I had something similar with a bad cable once, but you probably tried that already.
I'll connect mine to a few different PC's that have never had anything similar attached later. Maybe something interesting happens.
Yup. Tried a few difference cables. Namely the one that came with it.
It shows up as "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)".
I see that device manager says that it has a Microsoft driver installed. When I click uninstall, all it does is disconnect the device from the machine.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sun, 11 September 2016, 15:39:27
Yup. Tried a few difference cables. Namely the one that came with it.
It shows up as "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)".
I see that device manager says that it has a Microsoft driver installed. When I click uninstall, all it does is disconnect the device from the machine.
UsualSuspectXXX that sounds almost exactly the same as what was going on with mine, except windows 10 appears to like to disconnect it after showing that error message, and vaguely similar to what alexjd99 was describing too.
Does yours act like a keyboard when you first plug it in and only does the device descriptor request failed when you hit the reset button, or is it going straight to device descriptor request failed from the start?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 15:45:05
Yup. Tried a few difference cables. Namely the one that came with it.
It shows up as "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)".
I see that device manager says that it has a Microsoft driver installed. When I click uninstall, all it does is disconnect the device from the machine.
UsualSuspectXXX that sounds almost exactly the same as what was going on with mine, except windows 10 appears to like to disconnect it after showing that error message, and vaguely similar to what alexjd99 was describing too.
Does yours act like a keyboard when you first plug it in and only does the device descriptor request failed when you hit the reset button, or is it going straight to device descriptor request failed from the start?
Yes it does sound like the same issue. It has never acted like a keyboard, despite drivers and flashing firmware. It goes straight to the device descriptor request error every time.
Post by: scramm on Sun, 11 September 2016, 16:50:56
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 11 September 2016, 17:00:00
That's exactly what happened with the sentraq 60% I ordered on massdrop. They ended up taking it back 😥
='[
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 12 September 2016, 13:07:05
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 12 September 2016, 19:37:20
Finally done! (http://imgur.com/a/sCsOI) Sadly 5mm purple Acrylic is impossible to find, so black had to do :(
Congrats! It looks great. Really wish I could get my PCB running.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Tue, 13 September 2016, 15:14:37
Really wish I could get my PCB running.
Reading this makes me really sad as it does not only affect the participants but also all guys running this GB. I know they do their best, but to outsiders it just seems very different. A lot went wrong that was not directly caused by those running this GB.
Other than the PCB's not working after being assembled the cases also were mismade (I don't know if all of them were affected and completely forgot showing to this thread what exactly is wrong with mine, I'm gonna do it now).
It is supposed to be like that (look at the angled standoffs)
(http://i.imgur.com/3hr5mUU.png)
This is what mine looks like. It is especially bad because the standoffs on the right are not on the same horizontal-line as the middle and left ones, causing a different angle and bending the PCB. I only realized because in my PCB the lower middle screw hole is missing, so I could see the PCB being bent up in the middle. I fixed it with foam washers on all screws, both sides of the PCB and one metal washer on both the right standoffs.
(http://i.imgur.com/d3DSohI.jpg)
Again the prototype (look at the first post) did have the angled standoffs and worked fine according to dooders, just like the the prototype PCB I've got here (except the one missing hole ofc).
I hope everyone with problems already contacted dooders already, if not I'd suggest you do.
Let's all hope to break the curse soon and make this GB go out with a bang (and everyone happy at the end)! :thumb:
Post by: alexjd99 on Tue, 13 September 2016, 18:34:37
If the rest of you are having the same problem, it's definitely something going on with the PCBs
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 13 September 2016, 18:52:35
So it sounds like we're all having the same problem, because I've been trying and no matter what I do, it won't let me even install the correct drivers (this may be on my end too). Even when I press the reset button, nothing is happening here.
If the rest of you are having the same problem, it's definitely something going on with the PCBs
Definitely a related problem. I don't have the constant reconnecting problem so I was able to get the driver installed. Still didn't make a difference though.
Post by: alexjd99 on Tue, 13 September 2016, 19:06:35
So it sounds like we're all having the same problem, because I've been trying and no matter what I do, it won't let me even install the correct drivers (this may be on my end too). Even when I press the reset button, nothing is happening here.
If the rest of you are having the same problem, it's definitely something going on with the PCBs
Definitely a related problem. I don't have the constant reconnecting problem so I was able to get the driver installed. Still didn't make a difference though.
Skully, IIRC you were at the last SoCal meetup, I'm fairly certain I'm going to this upcoming one. Will you be there? If you are going to be there, I'll be sure to bring my board so that you can maybe take a look and see if you can figure out the problem we're having.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 13 September 2016, 21:07:35
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Tue, 13 September 2016, 23:04:02
Reading this makes me really sad as it does not only affect the participants but also all guys running this GB. I know they do their best, but to outsiders it just seems very different. A lot went wrong that was not directly caused by those running this GB.
Well put kawasaki. I know Dooders and Skully have been busting their tails on this GB. I really hope this doesn't reflect poorly on them. I know I for one will happily do a groupbuy with them again in the future, hopefully with a little better luck next time, China permitting :P
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 17 September 2016, 21:10:35
I'm narrowing down potential fab houses to make the replacement PCB's. I'll let you guys know as soon as they start to get made. For the people who already received PCB's but don't work, yours will be replaced as well. Thanks so much for your guys' patience, I know it's taking a while..
Post by: scramm on Sat, 17 September 2016, 21:19:15
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 17 September 2016, 21:25:53
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 18 September 2016, 07:12:18
Also, if you are still able to change the PCB design before producing the new ones you might want to try placing the diode for the left Control key slightly further away from the mounting hole (just like half a mm would be enough I guess). I partially knocked my diode off every time I had to disassemble and reassemble the board (3-4 times in a row now), so I had to reflow the solder points quite often now, which is not the end of the world, but could be avoided.
Edit: Also, the LED's don't turn off when I turn off my PC.
Post by: alexjd99 on Sun, 18 September 2016, 13:27:20
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 18 September 2016, 14:25:18
So, I just soldered in my Sip sockets to put in my LED's. For some reason the Numlock and Capslock LED's don't light up (checked polarity multiple times and tried with Num/Capslock an and off), maybe it's something about the firmware, maybe not idk. i hope someone knows a fix, if not I'll just bridge them to the LED's next to them.
Also, if you are still able to change the PCB design before producing the new ones you might want to try placing the diode for the left Control key slightly further away from the mounting hole (just like half a mm would be enough I guess). I partially knocked my diode off every time I had to disassemble and reassemble the board (3-4 times in a row now), so I had to reflow the solder points quite often now, which is not the end of the world, but could be avoided.
Edit: Also, the LED's don't turn off when I turn off my PC.
By default Capslock and Numlock are controlled by the state of those keys. If you want them to be on with the rest of the backlight it's a pretty simple change to the firmware. Just remove them from the led.c file and modify the backlight.c to add lines for LED5 and LED6.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sun, 18 September 2016, 14:45:34
By default Capslock and Numlock are controlled by the state of those keys.
That's the thing that is bugging me... they are not, at least it does not work for me.
Post by: tj_gee on Mon, 19 September 2016, 21:18:34
I had to send mine back to the guy who did the assembly because my "." on the keypad area wouldn't work. Turns out it was a from the screw holes. The PCB doesn't have a non-connected ring of metal around the holes. Assembly guy said, "The screws have dug into the PCB a small amount, but I can see metal exposed and I think they're causing a short on that bottom row." The board starting sending weird key combos when assembled, but disassembled it works fine. The screws fit irregularly tight in the PCB holes and it's a pain to remove them to disassemble.
Any suggestions on what to do about this?
The assembler suggested these:
- Coat the exposed PCB bits with some kind of protective coating (I'm pretty sure clear nail polish works very well for this, but I have a cousin who's an electrical engineer and can get his insight on the best product for the job.)
- Attempt to source plastic screws that wouldn't conduct
- Use some kind of paper washer between the pcb & screws (I remember old motherboard screws had little red washers made of cardboard/paper/whatever that were non conductive)
- Find longer metal screws and use metal washers between the screw head and the plate to secure the plate to the case without really touching the pcb
Post by: mogo on Wed, 21 September 2016, 10:36:39
Find longer metal screws and use metal washers between the screw head and the plate to secure the plate to the case without really touching the pcbYou mean plastic/paper washers? Wouldn't a metal washer just short the circuit again?
Post by: tj_gee on Wed, 21 September 2016, 10:42:46
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 21 September 2016, 12:07:40
For the middle and left screws the combination would be Screwhead -> Foam -> PCB -> Foam -> Case
For the right screws it would be Screwhead -> Foam -> PCB -> Foam -> Washer -> Case
Post by: IneffableTao on Wed, 21 September 2016, 16:07:09
Find longer metal screws and use metal washers between the screw head and the plate to secure the plate to the case without really touching the pcbYou mean plastic/paper washers? Wouldn't a metal washer just short the circuit again?
What I meant with my last of 4 possible solutions (quoted above) was something like this, expertly drawn, cross section: http://i.imgur.com/X1ufizC.jpg
There would not be any metal touching the top of the PCB which seems to be where the short is occurring. I'm not positive there's enough space between the switches on top of the plate to squeeze a washer anyway, so this is all mostly moot, but of the 4 options it keeps the metal the farthest away from the exposed connection.
I'll have to see if the standoffs suffer the same issue as described by kawasaki161 but I don't think they do; I'll validate tonight.
FWIW I have conferred with my EE cousin and he said nail polish, super glue or a conformal coating (most often used for waterproofing PCBs) can be used to cover the exposed trace and then a non-conductive washer will suffice. I'll probably go with the superglue as I have several varieties on hand already, and then either foam or paper washers on top of that (and maybe under the PCB as well, if necessary)
Thanks all for the feedback and suggestions.
Post by: skullydazed on Thu, 22 September 2016, 14:59:33
Post by: breitling on Sun, 25 September 2016, 09:52:27
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 29 September 2016, 19:56:49
I'll post another update when I know more.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 29 September 2016, 20:37:20
Post by: doodersbrother on Fri, 07 October 2016, 09:47:40
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 07 October 2016, 22:08:38
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 11 October 2016, 17:30:10
[attachimg=1]
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 11 October 2016, 18:50:00
Test PCBs are finished and are currently being tested!
(Attachment Link)
Great news! Too bad they're green, the white looked nicer.
Post by: deductivemonkee on Tue, 11 October 2016, 20:08:55
Test PCBs are finished and are currently being tested!
(Attachment Link)
Great news! Too bad they're green, the white looked nicer.
Quote
Test PCBs
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 11 October 2016, 20:34:39
Test PCBs are finished and are currently being tested!
(Attachment Link)
Great news! Too bad they're green, the white looked nicer.QuoteTest PCBs
Good point =|
Post by: breitling on Tue, 11 October 2016, 22:10:30
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 11 October 2016, 22:22:49
i kinda like the green... dont have many green pcbs its kind retro.
Retro indeed
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 12 October 2016, 00:51:58
Test PCBs are finished and are currently being tested!
(Attachment Link)
Don't forget the mounting hole between the (referring to standard 1,25 and 6,25 layout) spacebar and right alt key again ;) I can't spot it on that prototype.
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 12 October 2016, 22:49:50
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 18 October 2016, 06:01:24
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sat, 22 October 2016, 13:55:39
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 22 October 2016, 16:38:58
What's the word on testing Dooders? Did the green sample boards pass?
Interested to know the same. This pile of SIP'd switches has been sitting on my desk forever!
Post by: scramm on Sun, 23 October 2016, 08:43:53
Post by: IneffableTao on Sun, 23 October 2016, 09:59:26
Speaking of piles of switches, since my 60% from massdrop had to go back, i have 70 zealios (78g) sitting here. Anyone have a few they could sell me so i can fill this board with them?
PM'd
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 03 November 2016, 22:07:20
Thanks again for being so patient with this...
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 03 November 2016, 22:17:59
I for one embrace the possibility of green, its not like it will be visible much behind the plate though.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 03 November 2016, 22:21:43
Post by: breitling on Thu, 24 November 2016, 01:08:18
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 28 November 2016, 20:53:56
any chance these will make it before Christmas?
Interested to know the same. What's the timeline looking like?
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 01 December 2016, 00:03:20
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 01 December 2016, 00:50:55
any chance these will make it before Christmas?
Okay guys, I received the new PCB's. I'll test them further, but so far it's looking promising. Once I'm comfortable that they work well, I'll start shipping as soon as next week.
♫♪♫
It's begging to sound a lot like maybe,
Thanks to doodersbro;
Take a look in this thread, it's glistening once again
With LEDs and silver traces aglow.
It's begging to sound a lot like maybe,
Boards in ev'ry store,
But the prettiest sight to see is the keeb that will be
On your own front door!
♫♪♫
Thanks for the update Dooders, put me in the holiday spirit! :P
Post by: doodersbrother on Thu, 01 December 2016, 01:38:55
any chance these will make it before Christmas?Okay guys, I received the new PCB's. I'll test them further, but so far it's looking promising. Once I'm comfortable that they work well, I'll start shipping as soon as next week.
♫♪♫
It's begging to sound a lot like maybe,
Thanks to doodersbro;
Take a look in this thread, it's glistening once again
With LEDs and silver traces aglow.
It's begging to sound a lot like maybe,
Boards in ev'ry store,
But the prettiest sight to see is the keeb that will be
On your own front door!
♫♪♫
Thanks for the update Dooders, put me in the holiday spirit! :P
I'm sorry that you guys have had to wait this long in the first place :/
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 01 December 2016, 01:50:39
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 01 December 2016, 08:36:28
Okay guys, I received the new PCB's. I'll test them further, but so far it's looking promising. Once I'm comfortable that they work well, I'll start shipping as soon as next week.
Thanks dooders. Looking forward to it =D
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 04 December 2016, 20:40:47
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 04 December 2016, 21:11:33
Kits will start shipping out in order this week.
(https://media.tenor.co/images/648631551ab6345f2dab3c1c5078bae5/raw)
Post by: alexjd99 on Sun, 04 December 2016, 22:55:28
Kits will start shipping out in order this week.Show Image(https://media.tenor.co/images/648631551ab6345f2dab3c1c5078bae5/raw)
I always love a good Office gif
Post by: Brammm87 on Mon, 05 December 2016, 07:09:32
And then I just realized I'm still at my parents (in between moves) and all my keyboard stuff is somewhere in a box in storage... Roll on January!
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 14 December 2016, 18:13:35
The following just need replacement PCB's, correct? If so, I'll get those out tomorrow.
TJ_Gee
alexjd99
UsualSuspectXXX
SmithTheNinja
The rest will ship very soon after, and those who needed assembly will take about a week.
Post by: tj_gee on Wed, 14 December 2016, 18:19:15
My builder hacked mine together in an ingenious way so that it works, but I would like a replacement in case something else pops up with it.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 14 December 2016, 22:32:24
Post by: Brammm87 on Thu, 15 December 2016, 02:23:25
Post by: skuko on Thu, 15 December 2016, 04:58:53
Post by: breitling on Thu, 15 December 2016, 10:11:35
Post by: alexjd99 on Thu, 15 December 2016, 18:13:52
Ok so breitling's was shipped last week, tracking should've been emailed.
The following just need replacement PCB's, correct? If so, I'll get those out tomorrow.
TJ_Gee
alexjd99
UsualSuspectXXX
SmithTheNinja
The rest will ship very soon after, and those who needed assembly will take about a week.
I do need a replacement PCB.
Thanks so much for the update! :thumb:
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Thu, 15 December 2016, 21:05:17
Ok so breitling's was shipped last week, tracking should've been emailed.
The following just need replacement PCB's, correct? If so, I'll get those out tomorrow.
TJ_Gee
alexjd99
UsualSuspectXXX
SmithTheNinja
The rest will ship very soon after, and those who needed assembly will take about a week.
Yup just the PCB for me!
Post by: breitling on Fri, 16 December 2016, 15:25:45
(http://i.imgur.com/cUJj2o5.jpg)
Looks pretty sweet. Lighter than most of my aluminum boards.
Are these PCBs good to go? Or should I be testing it? I guess I'll test it anyway but kind of lazy... lol
Post by: kawasaki161 on Fri, 16 December 2016, 15:29:22
Arrived!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUJj2o5.jpg)
Looks pretty sweet. Lighter than most of my aluminum boards.
Are these PCBs good to go? Or should I be testing it? I guess I'll test it anyway but kind of lazy... lol
Did he forget the mounting hole in the lower middle again? :)) :)) :))
Post by: phinix on Fri, 16 December 2016, 16:20:21
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 16 December 2016, 17:35:05
Arrived!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cUJj2o5.jpg)
Looks pretty sweet. Lighter than most of my aluminum boards.
Are these PCBs good to go? Or should I be testing it? I guess I'll test it anyway but kind of lazy... lol
Did he forget the mounting hole in the lower middle again? :)) :)) :))
Appears that way
Post by: Brammm87 on Mon, 19 December 2016, 06:47:03
Post by: scramm on Mon, 19 December 2016, 07:07:30
Dooders, you might have an old address of mine, what's the best way to reach you to update that?
I just sent a pm for the same reason, I'll be moving before these ship out
Post by: breitling on Wed, 21 December 2016, 11:16:20
Are these PCBs good to go? Or should I be testing it? I guess I'll test it anyway but kind of lazy... lol
Just finished testing all the keys on mine before assembly and they're working 100% so mine is good.
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 27 December 2016, 18:33:16
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 27 December 2016, 21:55:34
Hey sorry for the delays. Got really busy preparing for Christmas. I'll get these out through tomorrow and the next day.
Great! Hope you had a wonderful Christmas with your family
Post by: Brammm87 on Fri, 30 December 2016, 11:40:46
Hey sorry for the delays. Got really busy preparing for Christmas. I'll get these out through tomorrow and the next day.Oooh baby, are those all boards? As in, mine as well (was one of the last to order)?
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 31 December 2016, 18:25:32
edit: I'm out right now so it should be up noonish tomorrow
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 31 December 2016, 18:28:43
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 02 January 2017, 19:35:17
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 03 January 2017, 03:34:42
Post by: bciamny on Fri, 06 January 2017, 20:16:41
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 07 January 2017, 00:01:46
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sat, 07 January 2017, 00:30:59
Post by: breitling on Sun, 08 January 2017, 13:20:17
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 08 January 2017, 13:26:29
Man I have re-programmed a lot of boards but never using the firmware from someone's github.. how do you run the software on a windows machine? I also went into TKG site but there's no Sentraq TK78 in the dropdown for boards. Anyone able to help? I can use it with default since its close to what I normally use but it would be nice to program a couple of the keys :)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Here is the official TMK firmware for the TK78 (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r). Which is a fork of the original TMK (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/tmk_core) firmware. However, when programming my planck, I found it easier to use QMK (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/tmk_core) which is a TMK derivative created by Jack Humbert (the creator of OLKB). I might end up re-creating the TK78 matrix into QMK for easier remapping... once I get my new PCB.
Post by: Brammm87 on Mon, 09 January 2017, 04:38:36
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 11 January 2017, 10:52:22
Also, make sure to test the PCB before committing to soldering the whole thing!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 11 January 2017, 10:55:54
You should see movement by now? People in the US should've already received.
Mine started moving yesterday afternoon. Thanks for getting replacement PCB's out to us!
Post by: tj_gee on Wed, 11 January 2017, 12:42:36
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 11 January 2017, 12:54:54
Have all the replacements shipped or just a few?
Link is at the top of the OP. Does not look like yours has shipped.
Post by: Brammm87 on Fri, 13 January 2017, 00:40:37
You should see movement by now? People in the US should've already received.Mine changed to "acceptance" on Jan 9th, hasn't moved since. I can wait a little longer :p
Also, make sure to test the PCB before committing to soldering the whole thing!
Post by: breitling on Fri, 13 January 2017, 00:44:10
Man I have re-programmed a lot of boards but never using the firmware from someone's github.. how do you run the software on a windows machine? I also went into TKG site but there's no Sentraq TK78 in the dropdown for boards. Anyone able to help? I can use it with default since its close to what I normally use but it would be nice to program a couple of the keys :)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Here is the official TMK firmware for the TK78 (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r). Which is a fork of the original TMK (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/tmk_core) firmware. However, when programming my planck, I found it easier to use QMK (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/tmk_core) which is a TMK derivative created by Jack Humbert (the creator of OLKB). I might end up re-creating the TK78 matrix into QMK for easier remapping... once I get my new PCB.
Thanks, but how do i run the firmware?
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 13 January 2017, 15:21:27
Thanks, but how do i run the firmware?
You don't so much run the firmware as build it and install in onto your board. Check out the QMK Wiki (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/wiki) for some guides or try the Build Guide from TMK (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/build.md). They both have basically the same steps and information. If you still can't get it there's probably a guide here on the forums somewhere where you can ask for more help.
Also yay! My board is here and first plug in everything works as it's supposed to and all the keys worked correctly when shorted with some tweazers! Time to get soldering so I can post some pictures of this beauty on /r/MK!
Thanks for all the hardwork getting these out Dooders, I can't wait to get clacking away!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 13 January 2017, 16:40:58
Man I have re-programmed a lot of boards but never using the firmware from someone's github.. how do you run the software on a windows machine? I also went into TKG site but there's no Sentraq TK78 in the dropdown for boards. Anyone able to help? I can use it with default since its close to what I normally use but it would be nice to program a couple of the keys :)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Here is the official TMK firmware for the TK78 (https://github.com/skullydazed/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/tk78-r). Which is a fork of the original TMK (https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/tmk_core) firmware. However, when programming my planck, I found it easier to use QMK (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/tree/master/tmk_core) which is a TMK derivative created by Jack Humbert (the creator of OLKB). I might end up re-creating the TK78 matrix into QMK for easier remapping... once I get my new PCB.
Thanks, but how do i run the firmware?
Woops, sorry, didn't see your response. What SmithTheNinja said is true.
To add to that, you should be able to use any hex loader. Teensy Loader (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html) and DFU Programmer (https://dfu-programmer.github.io/) should both be good options.
Edit: ****ered that up a bit
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 14 January 2017, 20:21:19
However, I can't figure out how the Num Lock & Caps Lock LED's are supposed to light. Doesn't seem to be dependent on them being active.
Also, seems like the printing on the numpad is a bit off (not that it bothers me)
(http://i.imgur.com/s8i7NNn.jpg?1)
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sun, 15 January 2017, 12:50:06
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sun, 15 January 2017, 23:14:32
Code: [Select]
Error: Command failed: C:\Program Files (x86)\QMK Firmware Flasher\resources\app/dfu/dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Not blank at 0x1.
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Not blank at 0x1.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash *PATH*\tk78-r.hex
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x5BFF... Not blank at 0x1.
The target memory for the program is not blank.
Use --force flag to override this error check.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
Flashing complete!The board works with the default layout, though the backlight key (fn0 + w) does some odd things, namely it only lights the top row (despite everything lighting up for a split second when plugging it in) and makes it no longer recognize as a keyboard, but I'd live without backlights if I can at least get the keymap I want to work.
EDIT: The caps right above the MCU are also wicked hot which doesn't seem good... I'm talking burn your finger if you touch them hot.
Post by: doodersbrother on Mon, 16 January 2017, 02:49:03
Not having a lot of luck reprogramming this guy still, dfu-programmer, Atmel FLIP and QMK Firmware Flasher all die in the same spot with an error along these lines. It seems like I can't erase the chip to reprogram it? Anyone seen something like this before?Code: [Select]Error: Command failed: C:\Program Files (x86)\QMK Firmware Flasher\resources\app/dfu/dfu-programmer.exe atmega32u4 erase --force
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Not blank at 0x1.
Erasing flash... Success
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Not blank at 0x1.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash *PATH*\tk78-r.hex
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x5BFF... Not blank at 0x1.
The target memory for the program is not blank.
Use --force flag to override this error check.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 reset
Flashing complete!
The board works with the default layout, though the backlight key (fn0 + w) does some odd things, namely it only lights the top row (despite everything lighting up for a split second when plugging it in) and makes it no longer recognize as a keyboard, but I'd live without backlights if I can at least get the keymap I want to work.
EDIT: The caps right above the MCU are also wicked hot which doesn't seem good... I'm talking burn your finger if you touch them hot.
Hmm I'll get back to you on this
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 16 January 2017, 07:25:36
EDIT: The caps right above the MCU are also wicked hot which doesn't seem good... I'm talking burn your finger if you touch them hot.
There's a short somewhere. The MCU should not get that hot.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 16 January 2017, 07:30:21
EDIT: The caps right above the MCU are also wicked hot which doesn't seem good... I'm talking burn your finger if you touch them hot.
There's a short somewhere. The MCU should not get that hot.
I was about to say the same thing. This would also explain why the LEDS are only working on the top row.
You should check the LED traces somewhere around where the work and don't work. Should provide some insight as to where the short is (hopefully).
Post by: skuko on Tue, 17 January 2017, 07:34:24
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Tue, 17 January 2017, 11:56:09
hey guys, i am trying to find someone to take over my order for 180$, any1 interested?I'll PM you when I get home from work. I'd be game for that.
Edit: PM sent
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 21 January 2017, 16:42:44
I had tested everything when I got my replacement PCB, all good. Finished soldering everything, plugged it in and everything worked perfectly until I flicked on the LEDs. They all lit up fine, but now I can't get any keypresses to register. Also, I can't turn the LEDs back off with Fn + S.
It almost seems like the LEDs are drawing all of the power away from the controller or the board got wiped somehow.
Any advice would be appreciated, cheers.
Post by: doodersbrother on Sat, 21 January 2017, 20:52:51
Alright, so this is kind of strange...
I had tested everything when I got my replacement PCB, all good. Finished soldering everything, plugged it in and everything worked perfectly until I flicked on the LEDs. They all lit up fine, but now I can't get any keypresses to register. Also, I can't turn the LEDs back off with Fn + S.
It almost seems like the LEDs are drawing all of the power away from the controller or the board got wiped somehow.
Any advice would be appreciated, cheers.
Is it still detected by the computer, and if so can you still flash to it? And keyboard is not working at all, just the LEDs and those are unable to be turned off?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 21 January 2017, 21:09:07
Alright, so this is kind of strange...
I had tested everything when I got my replacement PCB, all good. Finished soldering everything, plugged it in and everything worked perfectly until I flicked on the LEDs. They all lit up fine, but now I can't get any keypresses to register. Also, I can't turn the LEDs back off with Fn + S.
It almost seems like the LEDs are drawing all of the power away from the controller or the board got wiped somehow.
Any advice would be appreciated, cheers.
Is it still detected by the computer, and if so can you still flash to it? And keyboard is not working at all, just the LEDs and those are unable to be turned off?
I can check in a bit. Let me go compile the firware to flash to it. But yes, only the LEDs turn on, keys do not send keycodes to the computer, and Fn + S does not lower them (which leads me to believe the controller is not running). I'll post back here inna bit after I get to re-flashing
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 21 January 2017, 22:06:31
Using DFU Programmer, ran erase command
Ran flash command with default firmaware
Unplugged/re-plugged in --> no leds lit, all keys worked
Hit Fn + W to enable LEDs --> top row lit up but dim, no keys worked
Unplugged/re-plugged in --> all LEDs lit, no keys worked.
Repeated above steps to flash firmware --> "no device present."
At this point, DFU can no longer see the board to flash.
--
(http://i.imgur.com/WHr0xNw.png)
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 22 January 2017, 17:26:04
Finally got DFU loader to recognize the board again, idk what happened. Did a force flash with the default firmware, all's well.
Installed into the case, popped on all my caps and realized I ****ered up a bit. Left shift was crooked and I had the 1.25u modifiers on the left side one position to the right.
(http://i.imgur.com/VQ8Tc3U.jpg)
Thank god I already had a solder sucker, so I went ahead and fixed that.
(http://i.imgur.com/SxLwFMV.jpg)
Back to my desk, and and everything is working fine...
Plugged in a different USB cable, all of the LEDs lit up, and I expected nothing to work...
(http://i.imgur.com/7WrO1gq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wLwkOGo.jpg)
Then all of a sudden (while taking that last picture), the LEDS turned off, board kept working. Turned LEDs on, and only top row lit up, then turned off. Nothing worked again.
Unplugged, re-plugged in, and no LEDs, but it's working again. Mostly. Four keys stopped working (Fn, RCtrl, Num0, NumDot).
Now I'm back to DFU loader no longer seeing the board...
This really feels like there is a sever issue with the LED controller
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 22 January 2017, 18:55:02
So, got an update for yall.
Finally got DFU loader to recognize the board again, idk what happened. Did a force flash with the default firmware, all's well.
Installed into the case, popped on all my caps and realized I ****ered up a bit. Left shift was crooked and I had the 1.25u modifiers on the left side one position to the right.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VQ8Tc3U.jpg)
Thank god I already had a solder sucker, so I went ahead and fixed that.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SxLwFMV.jpg)
Back to my desk, and and everything is working fine...
Plugged in a different USB cable, all of the LEDs lit up, and I expected nothing to work...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7WrO1gq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLwkOGo.jpg)
Then all of a sudden (while taking that last picture), the LEDS turned off, board kept working. Turned LEDs on, and only top row lit up, then turned off. Nothing worked again.
Unplugged, re-plugged in, and no LEDs, but it's working again. Mostly. Four keys stopped working (Fn, RCtrl, Num0, NumDot).
Now I'm back to DFU loader no longer seeing the board...
This really feels like there is a sever issue with the LED controller
Alright, I'm still trying to figure out what could be going on. Can you post pics of the PCB, specifically the controller and LED driver?
Great looking board btw, love the color scheme. Just a shame you're having these issues.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 22 January 2017, 19:16:55
So, got an update for yall.
Finally got DFU loader to recognize the board again, idk what happened. Did a force flash with the default firmware, all's well.
Installed into the case, popped on all my caps and realized I ****ered up a bit. Left shift was crooked and I had the 1.25u modifiers on the left side one position to the right.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VQ8Tc3U.jpg)
Thank god I already had a solder sucker, so I went ahead and fixed that.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SxLwFMV.jpg)
Back to my desk, and and everything is working fine...
Plugged in a different USB cable, all of the LEDs lit up, and I expected nothing to work...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7WrO1gq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLwkOGo.jpg)
Then all of a sudden (while taking that last picture), the LEDS turned off, board kept working. Turned LEDs on, and only top row lit up, then turned off. Nothing worked again.
Unplugged, re-plugged in, and no LEDs, but it's working again. Mostly. Four keys stopped working (Fn, RCtrl, Num0, NumDot).
Now I'm back to DFU loader no longer seeing the board...
This really feels like there is a sever issue with the LED controller
Alright, I'm still trying to figure out what could be going on. Can you post pics of the PCB, specifically the controller and LED driver?
Great looking board btw, love the color scheme. Just a shame you're having these issues.
Thanks. I really do love how it looks in black/green with the blanks on it!
This should be enough pictures to get started. Sorry for potatoes. If you need some better pics or more detail of a specific area, please let me know, I'd be happy to.
http://imgur.com/a/37b0X
Post by: skullydazed on Sun, 22 January 2017, 19:40:57
So, got an update for yall.
Finally got DFU loader to recognize the board again, idk what happened. Did a force flash with the default firmware, all's well.
Installed into the case, popped on all my caps and realized I ****ered up a bit. Left shift was crooked and I had the 1.25u modifiers on the left side one position to the right.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VQ8Tc3U.jpg)
Thank god I already had a solder sucker, so I went ahead and fixed that.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SxLwFMV.jpg)
Back to my desk, and and everything is working fine...
Plugged in a different USB cable, all of the LEDs lit up, and I expected nothing to work...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7WrO1gq.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wLwkOGo.jpg)
Then all of a sudden (while taking that last picture), the LEDS turned off, board kept working. Turned LEDs on, and only top row lit up, then turned off. Nothing worked again.
Unplugged, re-plugged in, and no LEDs, but it's working again. Mostly. Four keys stopped working (Fn, RCtrl, Num0, NumDot).
Now I'm back to DFU loader no longer seeing the board...
This really feels like there is a sever issue with the LED controller
Alright, I'm still trying to figure out what could be going on. Can you post pics of the PCB, specifically the controller and LED driver?
Great looking board btw, love the color scheme. Just a shame you're having these issues.
Thanks. I really do love how it looks in black/green with the blanks on it!
This should be enough pictures to get started. Sorry for potatoes. If you need some better pics or more detail of a specific area, please let me know, I'd be happy to.
http://imgur.com/a/37b0X
When it was assembled someone got the positions of a capacitor and a resistor wrong. I'm not sure how your board ever worked like that but that would explain some of what you're seeing.
(http://i.imgur.com/l63DqbH.png)
It also appears that most of the decoupling caps have been removed to accommodate the change to TQFP. This would explain why the problem manifests when you turn the backlight on and/or up. Without those caps the current draw from the LEDs turning on is too much for the MCU to withstand and it halts.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 22 January 2017, 19:58:39
When it was assembled someone got the positions of a capacitor and a resistor wrong. I'm not sure how your board ever worked like that but that would explain some of what you're seeing.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l63DqbH.png)
It also appears that most of the decoupling caps have been removed to accommodate the change to TQFP. This would explain why the problem manifests when you turn the backlight on and/or up. Without those caps the current draw from the LEDs turning on is too much for the MCU to withstand and it halts.
Oh boy. I've never done any surface mount soldering, you think this is something that I can fix?
As for the second thing that you mentioned, what "decoupling caps" are you talking about? And what is TQFP?
In terms of overpowering the MCU, that makes sense. Surprisingly, everything worked with the LEDs on for a good 5 or 10 minutes.
And I guess the capacitor and resistor could explain why the board suddenly stopped working, but I agree, I'm surprised this works/worked at all to begin with.
Thanks for taking the time to look into my issues. Would you advise me to try to fix this PCB? And could you give me any suggestions for the SMD related soldering?
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 22 January 2017, 20:48:04
When it was assembled someone got the positions of a capacitor and a resistor wrong. I'm not sure how your board ever worked like that but that would explain some of what you're seeing.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l63DqbH.png)
It also appears that most of the decoupling caps have been removed to accommodate the change to TQFP. This would explain why the problem manifests when you turn the backlight on and/or up. Without those caps the current draw from the LEDs turning on is too much for the MCU to withstand and it halts.
Oh boy. I've never done any surface mount soldering, you think this is something that I can fix?
As for the second thing that you mentioned, what "decoupling caps" are you talking about? And what is TQFP?
In terms of overpowering the MCU, that makes sense. Surprisingly, everything worked with the LEDs on for a good 5 or 10 minutes.
And I guess the capacitor and resistor could explain why the board suddenly stopped working, but I agree, I'm surprised this works/worked at all to begin with.
Thanks for taking the time to look into my issues. Would you advise me to try to fix this PCB? And could you give me any suggestions for the SMD related soldering?
Decoupling caps limit the power delivered. TQFP is the package (form factor?) Of the controller. The PCB originally used a QFN package.
I'm not sure correcting the caps and resistors will fully fix it when decoupling caps are missing.
I'm out with the family right now, but I'll get back to you after.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 22 January 2017, 20:59:27
Decoupling caps limit the power delivered. TQFP is the package (form factor?) Of the controller. The PCB originally used a QFN package.
I'm not sure correcting the caps and resistors will fully fix it when decoupling caps are missing.
I'm out with the family right now, but I'll get back to you after.
Thanks dooders. Enjoy your time with the family!
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 23 January 2017, 01:13:08
Decoupling caps limit the power delivered. TQFP is the package (form factor?) Of the controller. The PCB originally used a QFN package.
I'm not sure correcting the caps and resistors will fully fix it when decoupling caps are missing.
I'm out with the family right now, but I'll get back to you after.
Thanks dooders. Enjoy your time with the family!
I think fixing the cap/resistor that have been swapped will fix the "it doesn't come back ever after replugging" problem. The LED's turning on can still cause the undercurrent problem, but with the other problem fixed the MCU should reset and start working again after the current stabilizes. The decoupling caps can be added by soldering something like this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/) directly to the proper pins on the MCU.
As for whether or not you can fix it, that's really a question you can answer better than I can. It's well within anyone's ability to do a swap like that, the question is whether you have the patience to do it by yourself without an experienced hand to watch and guide. I can honestly say that before I spent some time soldering SMD components I would not have had the patience. I have friends who did have the patience, and after they learned they taught me. You'll have to figure out which side of that fence you're on.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 23 January 2017, 06:54:35
I think fixing the cap/resistor that have been swapped will fix the "it doesn't come back ever after replugging" problem. The LED's turning on can still cause the undercurrent problem, but with the other problem fixed the MCU should reset and start working again after the current stabilizes. The decoupling caps can be added by soldering something like this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/) directly to the proper pins on the MCU.
As for whether or not you can fix it, that's really a question you can answer better than I can. It's well within anyone's ability to do a swap like that, the question is whether you have the patience to do it by yourself without an experienced hand to watch and guide. I can honestly say that before I spent some time soldering SMD components I would not have had the patience. I have friends who did have the patience, and after they learned they taught me. You'll have to figure out which side of that fence you're on.
I guess I'll have to order some smaller soldering tips before give it a shot though. Thanks for your help.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Mon, 23 January 2017, 17:44:41
Also Dooders, mines the same deal with those caps and resisters being swapped so I would check the other boards that you have.
Does anyone have specs on what that resister and that cap are? I'm not the best at surface mounted soldering and have junked a few parts getting them off of boards in the past, so I would like to grab a few extras in case I screw it up.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 23 January 2017, 17:48:03
When it was assembled someone got the positions of a capacitor and a resistor wrong. I'm not sure how your board ever worked like that but that would explain some of what you're seeing.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l63DqbH.png)
It also appears that most of the decoupling caps have been removed to accommodate the change to TQFP. This would explain why the problem manifests when you turn the backlight on and/or up. Without those caps the current draw from the LEDs turning on is too much for the MCU to withstand and it halts.
skully, when I get around to switching these two components, what is the correct orientation of the resistor? Should it be the same as the picture or the same as the other resistor?
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Mon, 23 January 2017, 18:50:12
skully, when I get around to switching these two components, what is the correct orientation of the resistor? Should it be the same as the picture or the same as the other resistor?
Resistors aren't directional.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 23 January 2017, 18:51:58
skully, when I get around to switching these two components, what is the correct orientation of the resistor? Should it be the same as the picture or the same as the other resistor?
Resistors aren't directional.
Good to know. Thanks
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 25 January 2017, 16:02:34
skully, when I get around to switching these two components, what is the correct orientation of the resistor? Should it be the same as the picture or the same as the other resistor?
Resistors aren't directional.
Good to know. Thanks
Hey, how is it going? Any progress?
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 25 January 2017, 16:26:11
skully, when I get around to switching these two components, what is the correct orientation of the resistor? Should it be the same as the picture or the same as the other resistor?
Resistors aren't directional.
Good to know. Thanks
Hey, how is it going? Any progress?
Haven't gotten a chance to swap cap and resistor yet. Need to pick up some desoldering wick first. Should be able to get to it Saturday night though. I appreciate you checking in though.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sat, 28 January 2017, 10:01:01
I was doing so good, had both of them desoldered, moved the resistor over, and then I dropped the cap. Just spent the last 20 minutes looking all over the floor with one of those bright shop lights. nothing ='[
Can't even explain how angry I feel at myself right now
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Sun, 29 January 2017, 23:11:34
Can't even explain how angry I feel at myself right now
Don't be too mad you haven't ruined anything, a little info and a part order and you should be right as rain.
I managed to get the resister and the cap switched, but it seems to make it less of a keyboard than before, but a much better lamp. All the back lights are on, and no key presses register so I can't manage a way to turn them off, and power cycling doesn't seem to do the trick anymore. Also, just as before the board isn't recognized as an atmel chip and can't be restarted while the back lights are on.
I think Skully is right and it will need the decoupling caps to keep the Atmel MCU alive long enough to actually use the board. Any info on where to solder those and I'll try my hand and let you know what happens. This poor board looks like Frankenstein but I'll be damned if I give up on it.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 29 January 2017, 23:36:27
Dooders or Skully, could one of you let me know what cap I need to get so I can replace the on that I lost? Also, as Smith said, where should we get decoupling caps and where/how should they be soldered?
Post by: Brammm87 on Mon, 30 January 2017, 08:47:27
Two questions:
- do they HAVE to be switched around?
- will this board work better if you forego LED backlighting?
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 30 January 2017, 10:37:02
Haha, thanks Smith.
Dooders or Skully, could one of you let me know what cap I need to get so I can replace the on that I lost? Also, as Smith said, where should we get decoupling caps and where/how should they be soldered?
Any 1uf 0805 cap should work. Here's one from mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAZ2A/
For adding decoupling caps I think this is a reasonable choice:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/
These are the pins to add them to. They are not polarized so the capacitor pins can go either way. Be careful as it will be easy to create a short here. Check your work with a multimeter before plugging in, sometimes shorts will hide behind the pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/qvAhhlt.png)
Post by: skullydazed on Mon, 30 January 2017, 10:38:12
Got my kit yesterday and did a quick inspection of the board. Capacitor and resistor are switched too.
Two questions:
- do they HAVE to be switched around?
- will this board work better if you forego LED backlighting?
If the board works without switching those around for you, no, but if you start to run into any problems that is the first thing you'll want to correct.
Without the LED backlighting the MCU should be more stable, yes.
Post by: Brammm87 on Tue, 31 January 2017, 13:42:50
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 07 February 2017, 22:16:43
Haha, thanks Smith.
Dooders or Skully, could one of you let me know what cap I need to get so I can replace the on that I lost? Also, as Smith said, where should we get decoupling caps and where/how should they be soldered?
Any 1uf 0805 cap should work. Here's one from mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAZ2A/
For adding decoupling caps I think this is a reasonable choice:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/
These are the pins to add them to. They are not polarized so the capacitor pins can go either way. Be careful as it will be easy to create a short here. Check your work with a multimeter before plugging in, sometimes shorts will hide behind the pin.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qvAhhlt.png)
Hey. I was going to order the parts the other day but that cap is out of stock there. Are any of these (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/MLCCs-Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT/_/N-bkrdv?P=1z0wrj5Z1z0x6frZ1yx4aw4Z1z0wuodZ1z0wtxnZ1yx6r6b&Ns=Pricing%7c0) close enough?
Specifically looking at this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAT2A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0AnBnWHyRQEyBvI9F95cOhNPFNnUeFu0%3d) one. What's the difference? And what makes this one so much more expensive?
Post by: skullydazed on Wed, 08 February 2017, 00:05:46
Haha, thanks Smith.
Dooders or Skully, could one of you let me know what cap I need to get so I can replace the on that I lost? Also, as Smith said, where should we get decoupling caps and where/how should they be soldered?
Any 1uf 0805 cap should work. Here's one from mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAZ2A/
For adding decoupling caps I think this is a reasonable choice:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/
These are the pins to add them to. They are not polarized so the capacitor pins can go either way. Be careful as it will be easy to create a short here. Check your work with a multimeter before plugging in, sometimes shorts will hide behind the pin.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qvAhhlt.png)
Hey. I was going to order the parts the other day but that cap is out of stock there. Are any of these (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/MLCCs-Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT/_/N-bkrdv?P=1z0wrj5Z1z0x6frZ1yx4aw4Z1z0wuodZ1z0wtxnZ1yx6r6b&Ns=Pricing%7c0) close enough?
Specifically looking at this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAT2A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0AnBnWHyRQEyBvI9F95cOhNPFNnUeFu0%3d) one. What's the difference? And what makes this one so much more expensive?
Yeah, that one is fine. The only difference typically is who made them and availability. Sometimes when one is particularly cheap someone will buy up all the inventory, leaving only the more expensive ones available.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 08 February 2017, 06:23:20
Haha, thanks Smith.
Dooders or Skully, could one of you let me know what cap I need to get so I can replace the on that I lost? Also, as Smith said, where should we get decoupling caps and where/how should they be soldered?
Any 1uf 0805 cap should work. Here's one from mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAZ2A/
For adding decoupling caps I think this is a reasonable choice:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K20X7RH5TL2/
These are the pins to add them to. They are not polarized so the capacitor pins can go either way. Be careful as it will be easy to create a short here. Check your work with a multimeter before plugging in, sometimes shorts will hide behind the pin.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qvAhhlt.png)
Hey. I was going to order the parts the other day but that cap is out of stock there. Are any of these (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/MLCCs-Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT/_/N-bkrdv?P=1z0wrj5Z1z0x6frZ1yx4aw4Z1z0wuodZ1z0wtxnZ1yx6r6b&Ns=Pricing%7c0) close enough?
Specifically looking at this (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/0805ZC105JAT2A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0AnBnWHyRQEyBvI9F95cOhNPFNnUeFu0%3d) one. What's the difference? And what makes this one so much more expensive?
Yeah, that one is fine. The only difference typically is who made them and availability. Sometimes when one is particularly cheap someone will buy up all the inventory, leaving only the more expensive ones available.
Ahh, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I'll get these ordered tonight and get this finished up soon.
Thanks!
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Sun, 12 February 2017, 14:30:13
More
(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Post by: doodersbrother on Sun, 12 February 2017, 22:04:06
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 13 February 2017, 19:09:09
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Post by: doodersbrother on Tue, 14 February 2017, 22:53:02
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Do you have a flux pen? It makes fixing bridges a breeze. If not, just hold tight a bit, I have some components on the way and I'll test as well. Once I find a fix I'll let you all know and if you guys don't feel comfortable doing it yourselves you can send your board to me.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Tue, 14 February 2017, 23:02:52
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Do you have a flux pen? It makes fixing bridges a breeze. If not, just hold tight a bit, I have some components on the way and I'll test as well. Once I find a fix I'll let you all know and if you guys don't feel comfortable doing it yourselves you can send your board to me.
Thanks dooders. I'll hold tight for a bit.
I do not have a flux pen, but I might invest in one if that's what I'll need as a solution.
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 17 February 2017, 22:33:40
Well that was a challenge, but the caps ended up getting on correctly eventually. The caps helped it go from a lamp to a keyboard that can have the LEDs turned on and off at will. It still won't flash which is pretty odd as it correctly identifies as an Atmel again, but I'm thinking it might just be a crappy .hex file or something on my part. Overall, I'm pleasantly surprised, I did not think this thing would be coming back from the dead.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Fri, 17 February 2017, 23:17:21
Show Image(http://imgur.com/download/uKXA4bz)
Well that was a challenge, but the caps ended up getting on correctly eventually. The caps helped it go from a lamp to a keyboard that can have the LEDs turned on and off at will. It still won't flash which is pretty odd as it correctly identifies as an Atmel again, but I'm thinking it might just be a crappy .hex file or something on my part. Overall, I'm pleasantly surprised, I did not think this thing would be coming back from the dead.
I'll have to give this another shot at getting those caps on there. Thanks for instilling some confidence.
Post by: cr0n1c on Wed, 08 March 2017, 23:41:23
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Thu, 09 March 2017, 18:28:22
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Do you have a flux pen? It makes fixing bridges a breeze. If not, just hold tight a bit, I have some components on the way and I'll test as well. Once I find a fix I'll let you all know and if you guys don't feel comfortable doing it yourselves you can send your board to me.
Hey doodersbrother, have you gotten your components and successfully fixed one of the most recent pcbs?
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 15 March 2017, 21:45:33
Hey all, any updates on this? My board still hasn't shipped, but I'm guessing that's because all the issues that the boards came with. I'm just trying to see if there is anything I can do to help speed the process along. I already built my Sentraq 60-X and I'm itching to start work on this one.
I'm wanting to make sure the PCB is fixed before shipping. I'm building one this weekend to confirm, and if it all works fine I'll ship it a few days after. I'll post an update as soon as I find out
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 15 March 2017, 21:46:50
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Do you have a flux pen? It makes fixing bridges a breeze. If not, just hold tight a bit, I have some components on the way and I'll test as well. Once I find a fix I'll let you all know and if you guys don't feel comfortable doing it yourselves you can send your board to me.
Hey doodersbrother, have you gotten your components and successfully fixed one of the most recent pcbs?
Not fully, I'm assembling a fixed board this weekend to confirm.
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 15 March 2017, 21:49:28
Finally got the replacement cap and soldered it on. Not the prettiest job, but at least the resistor and cap have been switched.MoreShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/9trAiOP.jpg)
When I connect it, all of the LEDs turn on but no keys register. (Same as before).
DFU Loader does not see the defice and Device Manger reports a problem "Device Descriptor Request Failed".
Should I go ahead and solder on the decoupling caps and see if that makes a difference?
Yeah, that'd be a good next step. I'm currently testing it as well to see what the best way to move forward is.
Well, gave it a shot =/ Got one on, but got solder in between two of the contacts. So I ended up removing it in an attempt to remove the short and then gave up hoping not to risk destroying anything.
Do you have a flux pen? It makes fixing bridges a breeze. If not, just hold tight a bit, I have some components on the way and I'll test as well. Once I find a fix I'll let you all know and if you guys don't feel comfortable doing it yourselves you can send your board to me.
Hey doodersbrother, have you gotten your components and successfully fixed one of the most recent pcbs?
Not fully, I'm assembling a fixed board this weekend to confirm.
Eagerly awaiting good results. I'd like to get this build finished up.
Post by: doodersbrother on Wed, 05 April 2017, 19:17:58
Post by: scramm on Wed, 05 April 2017, 19:33:21
I FINALLY swapped the components on the PCBs and assembled the orders for those who needed that, so I'll be able to get all the last orders out soon and wrap up this GB. Sorry again for the multiple delays on this GB, as well as the issues with the PCB.Awesome!! Thanks for all your hard work dooders
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Wed, 05 April 2017, 23:33:26
I FINALLY swapped the components on the PCBs and assembled the orders for those who needed that, so I'll be able to get all the last orders out soon and wrap up this GB. Sorry again for the multiple delays on this GB, as well as the issues with the PCB.
Great news! How do you feel about fixing my PCB? I'm no good at this SMD soldering ='[
Post by: SmithTheNinja on Fri, 14 April 2017, 21:24:48
Assembled board received, flashed successfully and everything works as intended including back lighting.
I'm not sure why when I first tested it only the bottom row was lighting up and around half the keys wouldn't respond, I'm guessing something must have shifted during shipping and was shorting out on the case while I tested the first round through., glad I got around to trying it out for real today.
Just wanted to say thanks Dooders, for sticking it through and putting in so much hard work and dedication to making things right, it's been one hell of a ride and I've probably been a jerk on more than a few occasions during this group buy, but after typing this post on the now fully functional TK-78R I have to say it was worth it.
Much love, happy clacking, and happy easter!
Post by: breitling on Sun, 16 April 2017, 10:09:15
Post by: scramm on Sat, 06 May 2017, 11:00:10
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: mogo on Fri, 19 May 2017, 21:57:25
On Windows 8.1, I'm getting this error from the device manager:
(http://i.imgur.com/IZDr3cT.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/g7KzdLd.png)
The PCB looks like this (don't mind the dust, i've already wiped it off)
More
(http://i.imgur.com/VDeRexh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/80Oneua.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/O2hhcrl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZIGf6bv.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/80Oneua.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/O2hhcrl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZIGf6bv.jpg)
Any... thoughts? :(
EDIT: I've plugged the board into a little Win XP laptop and I am getting keystrokes, but MANY keys are giving totally stupid keystrokes. Same thing on a MacBook. The keymap looks like this:
(http://i.imgur.com/EgiPAuC.png)
Man oh man what did I do
Post by: cr0n1c on Mon, 31 July 2017, 10:53:30
I FINALLY swapped the components on the PCBs and assembled the orders for those who needed that, so I'll be able to get all the last orders out soon and wrap up this GB. Sorry again for the multiple delays on this GB, as well as the issues with the PCB.
Just checking in on this GB. I thought this would have shipped out some time ago, but I've be pre-occupied with other boards. Any updates?
Post by: scramm on Sat, 12 August 2017, 09:52:51
Post by: UsualSuspectXXX on Mon, 14 August 2017, 19:34:01