XT/AT/PS2/Terminal to USB Converter with NKRO

[kako]

Hi,

I have recently set up this converter with a model m ssk, to hopefully get rid of AHK for remapping,
but have stumbled on an issue. The ALT key behaves differently than on a 'bluebox' converter for example.
It is triggered on press down, instead it should be on release - because of that Alt - Print Screen combination
does not work.

Is this a bug or is there a way to specify this behaviour via config?

I do not know the cause of it but a working solution is actually quite simple.

Code: [Select]

remapblock
    EXTRA_SYSRQ PRINTSCREEN
endblock

Same behaviour is observed on a full size model m.

[Techno Trousers]

This is a bit OT, but is Soarer still around and working on this? His last post on GH was four months ago. I know he said in the past that this project wasn't ready for open source, but I hope he'll consider opening it up if he's ready to give it up.

[kako]

Is there a way to make a macro combination repeatable? Presently the command runs just once when the selected combination is pressed even if the two keys remains in down position/are not released.


And to answer myself;

Code: [Select]

macro PAGE_UP ALT
MAKE MEDIA_VOLUME_UP
onbreak norestoremeta
BREAK MEDIA_VOLUME_UP
endmacro

But can anyone tell me why this will not work

Code: [Select]

macroblock
macro DOWN ALT
PRESS X
endmacro
endblock

and this wont

Code: [Select]

macroblock
macro DOWN CTRL
PRESS X
endmacro
endblock

while this will

Code: [Select]

macroblock
macro DOWN SHIFT
PRESS X
endmacro
endblock

And to answer myself again; alt is complicated.

Code: [Select]

#missing numpad enter :'(
macro RIGHT LALT
BREAK LALT
PRESS ESC
PUSH_META CLEAR_META all
MAKE ENTER
onbreak norestoremeta
BREAK LALT
PRESS ESC
PUSH_META CLEAR_META all
BREAK ENTER
endmacro



[Mr. Perfect]

This converter won't help you there. It only converts standard PS/2 keyboard behaviour to USB. It doesn't support any special PS/2 commands for programming keyboards that Cherry uses. Even if it could do that, that would not work with the Cherry software. To program the board you will need a computer with a PS/2 port.

After you're done programming the board, you can probably use either your generic converter or use Soarer's if the board supports special key codes that the generic converter doesn't support.

Damn, I was afraid of that. Thanks for answering. The board does hold the programming once it's set, but most machines don't even have PS/2 ports anymore.

[ZefyrPyon]

Just ordered the parts in the mail. Can't wait to have fun with this project!! //squeals.-

[vivalarevolución]

I know this info is probably in the thread somewhere, but I was hoping somebody could point me towards the answer.  On an IBM Model F XT, does anybody know which internal wires correspond to GND, VCC, Data, Clock, etc?   I want to connect the Teensy internally at the controller rather than use adapters with the connector cable.  I've got brown, red, white and black wires, if that helps anybody.

[fohat.digs]

I know this info is probably in the thread somewhere, but I was hoping somebody could point me towards the answer.  On an IBM Model F XT, does anybody know which internal wires correspond to GND, VCC, Data, Clock, etc?   I want to connect the Teensy internally at the controller rather than use adapters with the connector cable.  I've got brown, red, white and black wires, if that helps anybody.

If you have the original cable and a multimeter, trace them yourself.

[vivalarevolución]

I know this info is probably in the thread somewhere, but I was hoping somebody could point me towards the answer.  On an IBM Model F XT, does anybody know which internal wires correspond to GND, VCC, Data, Clock, etc?   I want to connect the Teensy internally at the controller rather than use adapters with the connector cable.  I've got brown, red, white and black wires, if that helps anybody.

If you have the original cable and a multimeter, trace them yourself.

I don't have a multimeter. I was hoping for the easy way out with this one.

[fohat.digs]

I was hoping for the easy way out with this one.

NEVER trust colors. Including IBM-to-IBM.

[Techno Trousers]

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools nearby, you can get a multimeter really cheap. You just need to test continuity, so accuracy isn't important here. It's better to spend a little up front to make sure the the wiring's right, rather than risk blowing a cap on the controller.

[ZefyrPyon]

I used this:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/simple-logic-analyzer-for-teensy-t4567.html

and got this:

Waiting for device:....................
Listening:
wEE

remaining: FFFC


Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT



Device disconnected.
Waiting for new device:.........................
Listening:
sctrace v1.01
0009771 0009771 FD48670 FD69770 0009771 000A771 37D1FF0 37EA770 3804770 3832770
3862770 3DB5770 3DCF770 483F770 4858770 4BF7770 0009771 0009771 2313730 5C0F730
8EA2730 BA0B730 0009731 79B4770 000A771 60F1730 000A731 0009731 81CEFF0 0009FF1
000AFF1 8B20770 0009771 0009771 49D8730 6B85770 6BB7730 9C4A730 0009731 2515730
34A2770 350E730 000A731 0009731 B2DD730 C809730 DD4C730 0009731 3970730 4977730
520A730 6401770 6701730 698B770 6B25730 F634770 0009771 0D02730 1175770 1B25730
3095770 313D730 3791770 56A0730 61AC770 733E730 7D9F730 826C730 88D2730 8DEB730
A13D730 A93A730 AECE730 BDFB730 C80B770 000A771 1D30730 41AF730 51E3770 6010730
9DB4730 AA6E730 000A731 40E1730 E778730 0009731 29DE730 6976730 0009731 0146730
7AAD730 B910770 000A771 01D0730 0009731 0009731 9BFE730 F3A8770 F3F3730 000A731
2767730 48AA730 70D3730 000A731 441A730 9C93730 0009731 000A731 66CB770 66E4730
000A731 0009731 0C8D730 0009731 0009731 5F7A770 0009771 0009771 B00F730 000B731
0009731 09EE770 0009771 0009771 9AC9730 0009731 000A731 C1BA770 0009771 0009771
7261730 000A731 0009731 3CA9770 0009771 000A771 0885FF0 08C2770 08DBFF0 08F4770
090EFF0 0928FF0 09CA770 09E5FF0 0BD3770 0BEDFF0 0EC2770 0EDCFF0 0F25770 0009771
0009771 74E4770 7857770 0009771 000A771 A93D770 000A771 0009771 4305770 43F3770
440D770 442FFF0 4448770 4503770 45CEFF0 45E7770 4672770 46B4770 47E7FF0 480E770
4A38770 4B3DFF0 4B57770 5610FF0 5690770 ACAFFF0 ACD5770 B2C7770 B3E5770 B603FF0
B623770 0009771 1AB2FF0 1ACC770 1C2DFF0 1C46770 28EAFF0 2903770 2A57FF0 2A70770
2C97FF0 2CB0770 2DC2FF0 2DDB770 3B99770 3DC7FF0 3DE0770 622A770 8371770 8AA1770
8CD5FF0 8CEE770 8EC1770 8FF5FF0 900E770 9137770 968A770 9943770 C74C770 C815770
E8A9770 F07D770 F33D770 F357770 F559770 F62CFF0 F694770 FCF6FF0 FD0F770 FFEB770
0009771 017CFF0 01B6770 08A0770 0967770 0B9AFF0 0BB5770 0F2F770 234D770 23EAFF0
2404770 3BEFFF0 3C09770 4F5DFF0 4F76770 5AB9FF0 5AD2770 61D2FF0 61EC770 6872770
7391FF0 73AA770 000A771 000A771 5F25FF0 638B770 6701770 6944770 6985FF0 6A39770
6A7BFF0 6A98770 6C80FF0 6CBD770 6D45FF0 6D8E770 6E6CFF0 6EA2770 72D9FF0 7318770
0009771 000A771

Using a teensy 2.0 and a Model M 122 Key Terminal Keyboard. What am I supposed to do. >.< I am lost now.

[JPG]

First thing I would do is to test your wiring to make sure it's all ok and that you have not inverted the data and timing cables.

[turtlelordjp]

I am having some issues with this on my teensy 2.0.  I have a model M (1395660) connected to the teensy.  It had a RJ-45 connector, and I have extra double checked that i have wired it correctly (5v on 3/Vcc, data on 4/PD0, clock on 5/PD1, grd on 6/grd).  I get the following readout when plugging it in

wEE

remaining:FFFC


Keyboard ID:0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT

R05

I have taken a multimeter to the teensy, here are the readings:
5v -> data 2Kohm
5v -> clock 2Kohm
5v -> grd 10.27Kohm
grd -> data 12.26Kohm
grd -> clock 12.26Kohm
clock -> data 4.03Kohm

While plugged in (black on ground)
grd->clock 1.2V
grd->data 1.2V
grd->Vcc .08V

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

[fohat.digs]

It had a RJ-45 connector, and I have extra double checked that i have wired it correctly (5v on 3/Vcc, data on 4/PD0, clock on 5/PD1, grd on 6/grd). 

I am not sure what these numbers mean, but be sure to remember that the diagrams show the socket (female) that the cable (male) plugs into rather than the plug itself.

Conn.       Teensy
GND -------- GND
Vcc/+5V ---- Vcc
Data ------- PD0
Clock ------ PD1

[turtlelordjp]

It had a RJ-45 connector, and I have extra double checked that i have wired it correctly (5v on 3/Vcc, data on 4/PD0, clock on 5/PD1, grd on 6/grd). 

I am not sure what these numbers mean, but be sure to remember that the diagrams show the socket (female) that the cable (male) plugs into rather than the plug itself.

Conn.       Teensy
GND -------- GND
Vcc/+5V ---- Vcc
Data ------- PD0
Clock ------ PD1

These numbers relate to the pin-out on the RJ-45 connector.  I have them as you said. Thanks

[arakula]

Today, I've got a Teensy 2.0 and applied the converter to an old IBM 3270 terminal keyboard (1394312, M-122, no LEDs, RJ-45 connector). I had already created a little LED control PCB, so adding it was a matter of minutes. Absolutely great!

Since my main keyboard is a Unicomp PC/5250 keyboard, I've created a layout that's nearly 100% compatible to that (actually, it handles certain conditions BETTER than the original, which I intend to modify a bit once this replacement keyboard is fully up to the job). Here it is:

Code: [Select]

ifset set3
# Arakula's config for Terminal Model M (No 1394312, 122 keys, ISO Layout, cable with RJ45 connector)
# This one mimics the Unicomp PC/5250's behavior as closely as possible

###############################################################################
# macros to mimic the PC/5250 set 2 behavior
###############################################################################

# left hand side function keys
macroblock
    macro EXTRA_F2
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lctrl
      press 2
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro EXTRA_F5
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META LCTRL
      press PAUSE
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro EXTRA_F6
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META LALT
      press F1
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro EXTRA_F7
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META LCTRL LSHIFT
      press 4
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro EXTRA_F8
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META LCTRL LSHIFT
      press 3
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
endblock

# function keys upper row
macroblock
    macro F13
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F1
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F14
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F2
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F15
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F3
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F16
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F4
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F17
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F5
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F18
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F6
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F19
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F7
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F20
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F8
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F21
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F9
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F22
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F10
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F23
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F11
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    macro F24
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press F12
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
endblock

# cursor block
macroblock
    # This is really for the INSERT key, which has been remapped to the unused key INTERNATIONAL_8
    macro INTERNATIONAL_8
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      SET_META lshift
      press TAB
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
    # This is really for the DELETE key, which has been remapped to the unused key INTERNATIONAL_9
    macro INTERNATIONAL_9
      # this one is completely senseless, but Unicomp PC/5250...
      PUSH_META CLEAR_META all    # save and clear all metas
      # must be set separately to get them in precise order
      SET_META lshift
      SET_META lctrl
      POP_ALL_META
    endmacro
endblock

# Numpad
macroblock
    macro SCROLL_LOCK shift
      PRESS NUM_LOCK
    endmacro
endblock

###############################################################################
# key remapping
###############################################################################
remapblock
    # left hand side function keys
    EXTRA_F1 ESC
# EXTRA_F2 macro: LCtll - 2 - 2 up - LCtrl up
    EXTRA_F3 PRINTSCREEN
    EXTRA_F4 PAUSE
# EXTRA_F5 macro: LCtrl - Break down - Break up - LCtrl up
# EXTRA_F6 macro: LAlt - F1 - F1 up - LAlt up
# EXTRA_F7 macro: LCtrl - LShift - 4 - LShift up - LCtrl up
# EXTRA_F8 macro: LCtll - LShift - 3 - LShift up - LCtrl up
    EXTRA_F9 LGUI
    EXTRA_F10 APP
   
    # function keys upper row
# F13         macro: LShift - F1 - F1 up - LShift up
# F14         macro: LShift - F2 - F2 up - LShift up
# F15         macro: LShift - F3 - F3 up - LShift up
# F16         macro: LShift - F4 - F4 up - LShift up
# F17         macro: LShift - F5 - F5 up - LShift up
# F18         macro: LShift - F6 - F6 up - LShift up
# F19         macro: LShift - F7 - F7 up - LShift up
# F20         macro: LShift - F8 - F8 up - LShift up
# F21         macro: LShift - F9 - F9 up - LShift up
# F22         macro: LShift - F10 - F10 up - LShift up
# F23         macro: LShift - F11 - F11 up - LShift up
# F24         macro: LShift - F12 - F12 up - LShift up

    # cursor block
    # these 2 mapped to unused keys, which are then treated by macros
    INSERT      INTERNATIONAL_8
    DELETE      INTERNATIONAL_9
    HOME        INSERT
    END         DELETE
    LANG_4      HOME
   
    # Numpad
    ESC         END
    NUM_LOCK    SCROLL_LOCK
    SCROLL_LOCK PAD_SLASH
    EXTRA_SYSRQ PAD_ASTERIX
    PAD_ASTERIX PAD_MINUS
    PAD_MINUS PAD_PLUS
    PAD_PLUS    PAD_ENTER
   
    # #-key
    EUROPE_1 BACKSLASH
endblock

... does the job, including the idiotic key behavior of the Delete key (in the sense of a normal PS/2 keyboard) on the number block.

Pics will follow once I got the final cabling :-)

[arakula]

I've added a little image gallery for my mod at http://imgur.com/a/RRwBH - have fun!

[vimx]

I've added a little image gallery for my mod at http://imgur.com/a/RRwBH - have fun!

Amazing work.  That is a really nice and HUGE keyboard. 

[jevvix]

I'm getting some really strange behavior, maybe someone can guide me in the right direction. Keyboard is IBM XT.

On XP laptop, everything works fine. HID Listen output:
Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT

But on this Win8 desktop it doesn't work.  HID Listen output of a few seconds gets spammed until I disconnect it manually. Zero response from the keyboard:


Any ideas what's going on?

[hjkl_over_wasd]

Can someone please help me troubleshoot my problem?

I have an HHKB Pro2 which I want connected to the Teensy2, but I also want to keep the USB hub. Therefore I thought I could use PS2 to USB, by connecting a USB cable from the HHKB to the Teensy as shown on the picture.

I've loaded the hex file I got from compiling the Makefile.pjrc in ps2_usb from the TMK repo. I tried both the GUI and the CLI loader. Nothing happens when I press a key ..

[Halvar]

I've loaded the hex file I got from compiling the Makefile.pjrc in ps2_usb from the TMK repo.

TMK repo? Compiling? I think you are in the wrong thread, this is not about hasu's controller.

If you want the Soarer converter the download of the hex file is in the OP of this thread.

[hjkl_over_wasd]

I've loaded the hex file I got from compiling the Makefile.pjrc in ps2_usb from the TMK repo.

TMK repo? Compiling? I think you are in the wrong thread, this is not about hasu's controller.

If you want the Soarer converter the download of the hex file is in the OP of this thread.

OK. I've tried loading the soarer firmware (1.12), but still no input from my keyboard shows up on screen.

the dmesg output shows that the firmware is loaded:

Code: [Select]

[136213.479186] usb 4-1.2: New USB device found, idVendor=16c0, idProduct=047d
[136213.479197] usb 4-1.2: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0
[136213.479202] usb 4-1.2: Product: Soarer's Keyboard Converter
[136213.479207] usb 4-1.2: Manufacturer: Soarer
[136213.480416] hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0014: No inputs registered, leaving
[136213.480519] hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0014: hidraw0: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [Soarer Soarer's Keyboard Converter] on usb-0000:00:1d.0-1.2/input0
[136213.481775] hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0015: hidraw1: USB HID v1.11 Device [Soarer Soarer's Keyboard Converter] on usb-0000:00:1d.0-1.2/input1
[136213.484198] input: Soarer Soarer's Keyboard Converter as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.0/usb4/4-1/4-1.2/4-1.2:1.2/0003:16C0:047D.0016/input/input27
[136213.484410] hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0016: input,hidraw2: USB HID v1.11 Keyboard [Soarer Soarer's Keyboard Converter] on usb-0000:00:1d.0-1.2/input2
[136213.485902] hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0017: hiddev0,hidraw3: USB HID v1.11 Device [Soarer Soarer's Keyboard Converter] on usb-0000:00:1d.0-1.2/input3

Can someone please confirm that my wiring is correct?

[Halvar]

Wiring looks wrong to me.

From Soarer's docs:

Wiring Info

Connector   Breakout board
GND GND
Vcc/+5V VCC
Data PD0
Clock PD1
Keyboard Reset v1.1+   PB7

See PJRC for Teensy pinouts, or the documentation that came with your chosen breakout board.

'Keyboard Reset' is only required for certain PC/XT-like keyboards, such as the Leading Edge DC-2014.

Teensy 2.0 wiring:


Looks to me like you soldered data and clock to PD2 and PD5 instead of PD0 and PD1.

[hjkl_over_wasd]

Thanks Halvard. You're absolutely correct. I've been mixing these instructions with the TMK stuff, thinking they've been the same thing for some reason ..

I'm tempted to see if I can make the changes in the firmware, since I'll have to wait until Monday to fix the soldering, but that's probably the safer thing to do, so I'll wait.

Thanks again.

[jevvix]

v1.10 is now available in the OP!

• Added support for 'almost' PC/XT protocol keyboards, e.g. Leading Edge DC-2014.

Has anyone actually been able to get the converter to work with a DC-2014? I keep getting the same thing:

Code: [Select]

Listening:
wEE

remaining: FFFC

Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT

R05
And nothing when I try to press keys. I've tried it on 5 different DC-2014's and I refuse to believe none of them work...

[fohat.digs]

Has anyone actually been able to get the converter to work with a DC-2014?

I had the same experience.

Somewhere recently I heard an oblique reference that the DC-2014 expects that extra 5th leg connected for some reason.

I think that Akimbo got one to work.

PS - you are sitting on a gold mine

[klunkymutt]

Alright, so I just picked up a Terminal Model M 1392595 with an RJ45 connector. I purchased a female RJ45 connector as well as a Teensy 2.0 and I read in the post that if you swap Ground and Power bad things happen. I was sort of confused by the orientation of your RJ45 diagram so I just wanted to clarify I had it right before I go break my new keyboard haha. If I hold the RJ45 connector like this: the very left wire(the black one on pin 3) is VCC 5v correct?

EDIT: The spellings

[Halvar]

Does your post miss a photo?

This is the view on the front of your female RJ45 connector.

[klunkymutt]

Weird. My photo doesn't show up but if you click on it it will pull it up.

I was holding it with the retention clip facing down and looking at the pins. The 3rd pin would be VCC right?

[fohat.digs]

Weird. My photo doesn't show up but if you click on it it will pull it up.

I was holding it with the retention clip facing down and looking at the pins. The 3rd pin would be VCC right?

The retention clip is on the cable (male).

The diagram is of the socket (female).

In the socket it is the 3rd pin from the left.

On the cable it is the 3rd pin from the right.

These socket diagrams make people crazy because 90% of the time it is the cable plug that they are holding in their hand and looking at.

[Halvar]

Yes, that's right, 3rd pin (black cable) on the photo is VCC.

[klunkymutt]

Yup. I just realized that when I said it was pin 3 and I realized the numbers on the diagram correspond with the pins.

Thanks for the help

[vivalarevolución]

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools nearby, you can get a multimeter really cheap. You just need to test continuity, so accuracy isn't important here. It's better to spend a little up front to make sure the the wiring's right, rather than risk blowing a cap on the controller.

Alright, I am back at with the keyboard, but I no clue how to check continuity or anything.  I don't get any readings on this multimeter.

Using a multimeter to me is like a black box.  I don't want to waste anyone's time with my total newbness, but I was wondering if anyone could point me towards some good resources on how to use a multimeter rather than me just randomly searching around the Internet.  I need like a mentor to take me under their arm and show me the ways electrical engineering.

[fohat.digs]

how to use a multimeter rather than me just randomly searching around the Internet. 

My favorite cheap-o has a beeper. If you touch the 2 probes on something that is connected, it beeps.

98% of the time that is all I want to do, see if something is connected or not.

I have a 2nd multimeter that does more things but does not have a beeper. Does anybody want to buy it for $10 shipped including a new battery?

Without a beeper, just try to determine whether anything at all is passing through. If you get some sort of reading with both probes touching something, and no reading if they are not, then you probably have continuity.

At the moron level that I usually work from, that is all you need.

[vivalarevolución]

how to use a multimeter rather than me just randomly searching around the Internet. 

My favorite cheap-o has a beeper. If you touch the 2 probes on something that is connected, it beeps.

98% of the time that is all I want to do, see if something is connected or not.

I have a 2nd multimeter that does more things but does not have a beeper. Does anybody want to buy it for $10 shipped including a new battery?

Without a beeper, just try to determine whether anything at all is passing through. If you get some sort of reading with both probes touching something, and no reading if they are not, then you probably have continuity.

At the moron level that I usually work from, that is all you need.

Yea, I am working from the same moron level.  I got an el cheapo from Harbor Freight, but I can't get readings from anything.  I think that I need to poke around the Internet some more for basic information.

Even if I figure out how to use the multimeter and get a reading, when I'm trying to determine which prong is which on the controller of the XT, I have no clue what I am looking for to make that determination.

[medvednic]

My terminal Model M works thanks to soarers converters, here is the summary of my efforts:
http://imgur.com/a/WttW4

Thanks!

[JPG]

how to use a multimeter rather than me just randomly searching around the Internet. 

My favorite cheap-o has a beeper. If you touch the 2 probes on something that is connected, it beeps.

98% of the time that is all I want to do, see if something is connected or not.

I have a 2nd multimeter that does more things but does not have a beeper. Does anybody want to buy it for $10 shipped including a new battery?

Without a beeper, just try to determine whether anything at all is passing through. If you get some sort of reading with both probes touching something, and no reading if they are not, then you probably have continuity.

At the moron level that I usually work from, that is all you need.

Yea, I am working from the same moron level.  I got an el cheapo from Harbor Freight, but I can't get readings from anything.  I think that I need to poke around the Internet some more for basic information.

Even if I figure out how to use the multimeter and get a reading, when I'm trying to determine which prong is which on the controller of the XT, I have no clue what I am looking for to make that determination.

The XT is the easiest to figure out since there's an image in this thread that shows what goes where AND it has test pads so it's much easier for a first conversion. As for the multimeter, just set it up to test continuity (it will beep if there's current and does nothing if there's no current and it's all you need to know. You put one pin from the multimeter on a pad and the other on a pin where the cable is plugged (or on the cable pins if you want to use the cable). If it beeps it's connected, else it's not.


To make it easier, I will post the image of the XT pads mapping that Soarer posted a few pages before:

[vivalarevolución]

how to use a multimeter rather than me just randomly searching around the Internet. 

My favorite cheap-o has a beeper. If you touch the 2 probes on something that is connected, it beeps.

98% of the time that is all I want to do, see if something is connected or not.

I have a 2nd multimeter that does more things but does not have a beeper. Does anybody want to buy it for $10 shipped including a new battery?

Without a beeper, just try to determine whether anything at all is passing through. If you get some sort of reading with both probes touching something, and no reading if they are not, then you probably have continuity.

At the moron level that I usually work from, that is all you need.

Yea, I am working from the same moron level.  I got an el cheapo from Harbor Freight, but I can't get readings from anything.  I think that I need to poke around the Internet some more for basic information.

Even if I figure out how to use the multimeter and get a reading, when I'm trying to determine which prong is which on the controller of the XT, I have no clue what I am looking for to make that determination.

The XT is the easiest to figure out since there's an image in this thread that shows what goes where AND it has test pads so it's much easier for a first conversion. As for the multimeter, just set it up to test continuity (it will beep if there's current and does nothing if there's no current and it's all you need to know. You put one pin from the multimeter on a pad and the other on a pin where the cable is plugged (or on the cable pins if you want to use the cable). If it beeps it's connected, else it's not.


To make it easier, I will post the image of the XT pads mapping that Soarer posted a few pages before:


(Attachment Link)

Now I feel lazy for not searching deep enough in the thread to find the answer and filling it up with my ignorance. 

Anyways, next time, I will do a little research.

[fohat.digs]

Now I feel lazy for not searching deep enough in the thread

This thread is the quintessential example of "bloat" and I wish that there was a way to extract the 5% of it that is actually helpful and informative into a parallel "Soarer's" thread.

[vivalarevolución]

Alright, thanks guys, got it working.

[jevvix]

Has anyone actually been able to get the converter to work with a DC-2014?

I had the same experience.

Somewhere recently I heard an oblique reference that the DC-2014 expects that extra 5th leg connected for some reason.

I think that Akimbo got one to work.

PS - you are sitting on a gold mine

After searching I finally found the answer in the docs zip. Since version 1.1 of his firmware Soarer has supported the 'reset pin', that 5th pin, that enable keyboards like the Leading Edge DC-2014 to work. It's mapped to PB7 (pin 12) on the atmega32u4.

Great news for people that use the Teensy, but, I use the Pro Micro and PB7 isn't pinned out.

edit: Using http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-use-a-pro-micro-as-a-cheap-controller-converter-like-soarer-s-t8448-30.html for the Pro Micro to remap PB7 to PB6 I've got all of my DC-2014's working!

I thought connecting the reset pin would also help my one other keyboards too but it seems to still not want to work. Registers under Soarer's firmware as XT but PCB it says "Multitech KB084 - PC/AT" and is unbranded otherwise. Doesn't work via passive din5 -> ps/2 either. The keys register(?) while watching HID_Listen but they all throw "r05" when depressed and "r06" when released. This one surely has to be another quasi-XT keyboard that Soarer's firmware doesn't support 

[arakula]

Great news for people that use the Teensy, but, I use the Pro Micro and PB7 isn't pinned out.

edit: Using http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-use-a-pro-micro-as-a-cheap-controller-converter-like-soarer-s-t8448-30.html for the Pro Micro to remap PB7 to PB6 I've got all of my DC-2014's working

Ah, so you're responsible for the "one download"
Great to know it was of help to somebody!

edit: BTW, I just added another little patch (downloadable from the same thread on DT) to let Soarer's Converter use the RX LED on the Pro Micro for visual feedback. Not necessary, but perhaps nice to have.

[jevvix]

Great news for people that use the Teensy, but, I use the Pro Micro and PB7 isn't pinned out.

edit: Using http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-use-a-pro-micro-as-a-cheap-controller-converter-like-soarer-s-t8448-30.html for the Pro Micro to remap PB7 to PB6 I've got all of my DC-2014's working

Ah, so you're responsible for the "one download"
Great to know it was of help to somebody!

edit: BTW, I just added another little patch (downloadable from the same thread on DT) to let Soarer's Converter use the RX LED on the Pro Micro for visual feedback. Not necessary, but perhaps nice to have.

Fantastic! Thank you for your work.

[Hypersphere]

Will the Soarer Converter work on the IBM 5085 104-Key Model F terminal keyboard (part number 6016730)? This is the one that has two D-sub connectors rather than a Din-5 connector.

If the Soarer Converter will not work, what about the Xwhatsit controller?

[gr1618]

.

[jevvix]

I put together a new Soarer's converter last night. I didn't have an enclosure to house the electronics in so I had to go for a more minimalist approach. I used one of these connectors and tried to keep everything as compact as possible. You can see the results below. Thank you Soarer for creating and sharing your converter.

Nice. Those DIN connectors are far cheaper than the PCB mount ones I bought from Digikey. Think mine were like $7-$8/each but I do like how my trio turned out. Still need to heat shrink cover them:

[gr1618]

.

[vivalarevolución]

Anybody got a photo of an internally mounted Teensy for a PS/2 Model M, not a Terminal M?  I want to mount my Teensy internally.  I'm thinking that I need to de-solder the socket, and then connect the Teensy that way by soldering some wires to the socket holes and the Teensy.  Does that sound about right?

[TheSven]

So would I be able to program the teensy as a UK layout, because many terminal keyboards have an ISO enter key I believe?

[Halvar]

The national keyboard layout is determined by the PC's operating system, not by the keyboard. You can use a US layout or a UK layout or any layout you like. The form of the Enter key doesn't matter as long as it sends the key code for "Return key" to the PC.

Soarer's converter cann basically make a keypress look like a different keypress, or like a sequence of keypresses. For example you could make your "Caps lock" key look to the PC like the "Control" key and the "Control" key look like "Caps lock", but the converter cannot emulate a different national layout.