Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3556590 times)

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Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5400 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 02:01:39 »
I think for a lubed clicky switch of any spring weight to stay clicky you would have to go very light on the lube with a lightweight lube and be very careful where it gets put at.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5401 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 09:49:56 »
I think for a lubed clicky switch of any spring weight to stay clicky you would have to go very light on the lube with a lightweight lube and be very careful where it gets put at.

Mkawa outlined best lubing practices for clicky switches the other day. Now if I could remember where that was....

Offline sovano

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5402 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 10:50:46 »
Are there any good Taobao agents out there? I really want to buy the LED color modifiers from the groupbuy here, but I'm not patient enough to wait several months. Also how long does shipping generally take to the US if going through a proxy service? Thanks!

Offline metalliqaz

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5403 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 10:52:23 »
Are there any good Taobao agents out there? I really want to buy the LED color modifiers from the groupbuy here, but I'm not patient enough to wait several months. Also how long does shipping generally take to the US if going through a proxy service? Thanks!

I've used Qtan, and I was happy.

Offline lcs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5404 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 10:53:30 »
Are there any good Taobao agents out there? I really want to buy the LED color modifiers from the groupbuy here, but I'm not patient enough to wait several months. Also how long does shipping generally take to the US if going through a proxy service? Thanks!

Are there any good Taobao agents out there? I really want to buy the LED color modifiers from the groupbuy here, but I'm not patient enough to wait several months. Also how long does shipping generally take to the US if going through a proxy service? Thanks!

I've used Qtan, and I was happy.

Same here, my GF bought some clothes and they arrived very quickly.

Offline sovano

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5405 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 10:56:32 »
Awesome qtan is an agent? That's great. I've had nothing but good experiences buying from his online stores in the past. Do I just message him here on GH to set it up?

Offline lcs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5406 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 11:02:45 »
Awesome qtan is an agent? That's great. I've had nothing but good experiences buying from his online stores in the past. Do I just message him here on GH to set it up?

Yeap!

Offline sovano

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5407 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 11:09:09 »
Thanks for the quick replies! :)

Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5408 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 23:32:24 »
how to connect 2 halves, with just one teensy 2.0?
Can you explain a little more how the wire between the two halves

thanks
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 December 2013, 23:36:17 by yasuo »
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Offline dorkvader

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5409 on: Sun, 08 December 2013, 23:34:32 »
I think for a lubed clicky switch of any spring weight to stay clicky you would have to go very light on the lube with a lightweight lube and be very careful where it gets put at.

Mkawa outlined best lubing practices for clicky switches the other day. Now if I could remember where that was....

Do you mean this? I had to refer to it recently to decide a plan of action on a few keyboards I have.
FOR MX SWITCHES:

i would not lube where the spring touches the cap of the stem. there is no wear there. the spring also does not touch the stem in a typical actuation, i wouldn't bother with that either. in fact, the only place i recommend lub is the either the slider or the housing side of the points at which the slider touches the housing. for linear switches, i recommend lubricating the front of the slider as well, the tendrils that actuate the gold crosspoints (they are lubed from the factory but with a silicone lube that just does not last long enough or provide the lubridicity for really smooth actuation), and the arc-face of a linear switch. i do not recommend lube anywhere else in an MX switch.

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5410 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:30:10 »
A friend of mine at work just asked me a question that I was not able to answer.  I thought you guys might be able to point me in the right direction.

He has a Model M.  He bought a PS2 to USB adapter, but it does not work on his Mac.

I saw somewhere else in this thread that you need an 'active' PS2 to USB adapter for the Model F (I think).  If he made sure that he had an active PS2 to USB adapter, would that solve his problem? 

Thx...

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5411 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:36:48 »
He has a Model M.  He bought a PS2 to USB adapter, but it does not work on his Mac.

I saw somewhere else in this thread that you need an 'active' PS2 to USB adapter for the Model F (I think).  If he made sure that he had an active PS2 to USB adapter, would that solve his problem? 

An active adapter such as the one in the GeekHackers store or a Belkin one should make an M work fine. Also there are SDL to USB cables that you can buy on eBay.

If you have an F, and you want it to work over USB, you'll have to use a Soarer Mod if its an XT or use an AT to PS2, then active PS2 to USB adapter. Pretty sure I saw someone use an AT F on their MacBook Air with the AT to PS2, then active PS2 to USB adapter method. Clunky but it works.

I'm not a Mac user at all though so hopefully others chime in :D.

Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5412 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:47:12 »
how to connect 2 halves, with just one teensy 2.0?
Can you explain a little more how the wire between the two halves

thanks
I waiting you CPTBadAs ;D
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SplitSyml by Moz BlacksMx fuk blacks

2/3 8.5pm                                          in de la my september month ya da all get my fukka "fake message"

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5413 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:48:54 »
how to connect 2 halves, with just one teensy 2.0?
Can you explain a little more how the wire between the two halves

thanks
I waiting you CPTBadAs ;D

Not a simple question and I have no idea. It's probably much more complicated than you and I think and deserves its own thread. Talk to oobly or Soarer? And don't bump your questions.
« Last Edit: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:53:06 by CPTBadAss »

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5414 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 09:59:38 »
how to connect 2 halves, with just one teensy 2.0?
Can you explain a little more how the wire between the two halves

thanks

It uses a MCP23018 I/O expander to connect the two halves.

You can find out all about the ErgoDox in this thread, or at ErgoDox.org.
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5415 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 17:08:28 »
From feng's Hammer thread, I assume this is his?

Show Image


What's the easiest way to replicate this?

Not sure how close this gets you, but there is what appears to be a TKL version of this case for sale here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51450.0;topicseen

Offline dorkvader

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5416 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 17:26:36 »
The linked case is for a realforce, not filco.

To answer the question: the best way to replicate it would be by 3D modelling it yourself and getting a local CNC shop to do the machining.

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5417 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 21:25:10 »
Is there some place where I can buy small amounts (e.g. 0.5oz vs. 1lb) of Krytox GPL 103? Searches turn up a number of past group-buys.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5418 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 21:26:38 »
Is there some place where I can buy small amounts (e.g. 0.5oz vs. 1lb) of Krytox GPL 103? Searches turn up a number of past group-buys.

Is there a reason you're set on GPL103? You can use this lube kit from Sheraton which will work fine for lubing your keyboard.

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5419 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 21:31:54 »
Is there some place where I can buy small amounts (e.g. 0.5oz vs. 1lb) of Krytox GPL 103? Searches turn up a number of past group-buys.

Is there a reason you're set on GPL103? You can use this lube kit from Sheraton which will work fine for lubing your keyboard.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm already aware of those kits. I realize now that I should have asked a different question:

I already have GPL 205 and I'm looking for an oil that can be mixed with it. I've heard that GPL 103 mixes well with it, but it's not readily available. Is there another oil that people would recommend mixing with GPL 205 that's more easily acquired?

Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5420 on: Mon, 09 December 2013, 22:26:39 »
GPL 1506 is a lighter oil I believe?

Offline nzhao20

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5421 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 08:33:54 »
Do mx clears have the same grittiness as browns? If so, can this be solved by lube?

Thanks

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5422 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 08:41:10 »
Do mx clears have the same grittiness as browns? If so, can this be solved by lube?

Thanks

I've never noticed any grittiness in clears.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5423 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 08:43:03 »
Do mx clears have the same grittiness as browns? If so, can this be solved by lube?

I've also never felt that MX Clears had any grittiness. However, the gritty feeling in MX Browns is subjective. I feel it but others don't.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5424 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 09:11:31 »
Do mx clears have the same grittiness as browns? If so, can this be solved by lube?

Thanks

I have felt a touch of grittyness in new browns but mine don't have any as they are a few years old.  That being said a touch of lube takes all that away and never felt any grittyness in clears.  But lube makes them TONS better.  For what its worth I tried ergo clears (brown springs) with no lube and felt no grittyness there as well.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5425 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 12:05:40 »
If I wanted to swap the two LEDs in the upper right of a filco majestouch 2 from the original red to white, what LEDs should I use? Links would be nice :)

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5426 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 12:07:06 »
If I wanted to swap the two LEDs in the upper right of a filco majestouch 2 from the original red to white, what LEDs should I use? Links would be nice :)

Think this link would be helpful. And I have my personal LED preference in the OP.

Offline Keytrun

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5427 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:19:38 »
I have a question about clacks. There are people who take pictures of clacks filling their entire top number row with clacks. How would that work for people who play games that require lots of numbers to be hit? I use numbers constantly in starcraft 2. Double tapping them aggressively for hours. Are clacks made well enough to withstand that type of torture? How difficult are they to actually press, given their unique texture. Is it really counter intuitive?

Also, the WASD clacks - what profile would they be considered? I have to assume that one of the 4 (the one that would be placed on W) is taller than the other 3, correct?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5428 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:22:51 »
I have a question about clacks. There are people who take pictures of clacks filling their entire top number row with clacks. How would that work for people who play games that require lots of numbers to be hit? I use numbers constantly in starcraft 2. Double tapping them aggressively for hours. Are clacks made well enough to withstand that type of torture? How difficult are they to actually press, given their unique texture. Is it really counter intuitive?

They'll be fine and feel a little raised or textured. I've been using Clacks on my daily drivers on the arrow keys for a while. No issues.

Also, the WASD clacks - what profile would they be considered? I have to assume that one of the 4 (the one that would be placed on W) is taller than the other 3, correct?

Clacks have their own profiles I think. They're taller than cherry and I think slightly shorter than OEM. They're all the same so W is the proper height for the "Clack" profile. Not any taller. I have an arrow cluster, it's the same thing.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5429 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:28:32 »
I have a question about clacks. There are people who take pictures of clacks filling their entire top number row with clacks. How would that work for people who play games that require lots of numbers to be hit? I use numbers constantly in starcraft 2. Double tapping them aggressively for hours. Are clacks made well enough to withstand that type of torture? How difficult are they to actually press, given their unique texture. Is it really counter intuitive?

Also, the WASD clacks - what profile would they be considered? I have to assume that one of the 4 (the one that would be placed on W) is taller than the other 3, correct?

Also most of the time when you rows full of clacks I think that is just for photos.....but you never know...

Offline stancato9

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5430 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:30:17 »
What's the proper way to use The_Beast switch tool? I can't figure it out for some reason.
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Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5431 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:30:49 »
What's the proper way to use The_Beast switch tool? I can't figure it out for some reason.
There are two ways actually.  If the switch it mounted to a plate with the cutouts making the switch top removable, you stick the two rectangles in the little holes on the topside of the switch.  They should look like little wings.  Then push the two metal tools together and the housing top should slide off.  If the switch isn't mounted you can use the two rectangle tip things to pry the clips up.  If you look on the sides of the switches there are 2 pairs of clips (these are located under the holes on top) you can slide the tool under those, gently pry outwards and up.  Make sure you hold that side of the switch open with your finger and do the same to the other side.
« Last Edit: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:35:47 by MKULTRA »

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5432 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 14:35:10 »
What's the proper way to use The_Beast switch tool? I can't figure it out for some reason.

Just linked you here. Some of the older tools didn't have the same QC and might not work as well. Check the OP of the link to see how I did it the other way. The picture shown is the design intent.

Offline nzhao20

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5433 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 15:55:16 »
Thanks for answering my question earlier! :)
I'm going to try to test ergo, 65g and regular clears and i heard that lube is extremely important. I heard that silicon teflan lubricant can work, and also a mixture of superlube grease and oil. Which one should i use? How should i apply the silicon lube, because many guides talk about a grease and an oil, and i would prefer to just use one. Thanks!

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5434 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 15:57:13 »
I'm going to try to test ergo, 65g and regular clears and i heard that lube is extremely important. Which one should i use? How should i apply the silicon lube, because many guides talk about a grease and an oil, and i would prefer to just use one. Thanks!

I recommend this lube kit from Sheraton which will work fine for lubing your keyboard. Has all the tools you need to apply the lube as well.

Edit: I agree with the post below. Superlube is only for stabilizers, not switches.
« Last Edit: Tue, 10 December 2013, 16:00:14 by CPTBadAss »

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5435 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 15:58:42 »
I don't know who spread this rumor that SuperLube could be used to lube switches, but it stops right here and now.

DO NOT USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE YOUR MX SWITCHES!!!

DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE SWITCHES!!!


Okay? Okay.

Krytox = yes
RO-59 = yes
Teflon lubricants = maybe
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Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5436 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 15:59:09 »
What's the proper way to use The_Beast switch tool? I can't figure it out for some reason.

Just linked you here. Some of the older tools didn't have the same QC and might not work as well. Check the OP of the link to see how I did it the other way. The picture shown is the design intent.

That's how I do it. Mine is from jcrouse, I think its from the older tools with less QC because its a bit thick on one of the tabs sticking out so its not 100% smooth. Going to see if sandpaper can take it out tho

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5437 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 16:40:03 »
I don't know who spread this rumor that SuperLube could be used to lube switches, but it stops right here and now.

DO NOT USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE YOUR MX SWITCHES!!!

DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE SWITCHES!!!


Okay? Okay.

Krytox = yes
RO-59 = yes
Teflon lubricants = maybe

What is the reason for this?  I did not desolder my filco, but I used a very small brush and depressed the switch and painted the side tracks with a very light coat of superlube and it helped a lot. 

Is the recommendation not to use suberlube based on how it ages or what?

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5438 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 16:41:35 »
I don't know who spread this rumor that SuperLube could be used to lube switches, but it stops right here and now.

DO NOT USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE YOUR MX SWITCHES!!!

DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE SWITCHES!!!


Okay? Okay.

Krytox = yes
RO-59 = yes
Teflon lubricants = maybe

What is the reason for this?  I did not desolder my filco, but I used a very small brush and depressed the switch and painted the side tracks with a very light coat of superlube and it helped a lot. 

Is the recommendation not to use suberlube based on how it ages or what?

So you just lubed the stem?

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5439 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 16:45:42 »
I don't know who spread this rumor that SuperLube could be used to lube switches, but it stops right here and now.

DO NOT USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE YOUR MX SWITCHES!!!

DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE SWITCHES!!!


Okay? Okay.

Krytox = yes
RO-59 = yes
Teflon lubricants = maybe

What is the reason for this?  I did not desolder my filco, but I used a very small brush and depressed the switch and painted the side tracks with a very light coat of superlube and it helped a lot. 

Is the recommendation not to use suberlube based on how it ages or what?

From others' experience:

There are several variants of Krytox lubricants. Some are widely used and are available in small quantity, some are not. If purchased in small quantity, say 1 oz, shipped price is close to $40, which I think is prohibitive for many people. If purchased in larger quantity, it is still expensive. 500g container goes over $200.

I didn't start my lube journey with Krytox. I tried to explore with cheaper alternative first, but after I experienced Krytox, I didn't really feel necessary to look at any other lube. It was that good. I tried superlube, some lube that I could get for cheap at Home Depot, reel oils, and etc. First, they weren't good enough (that is why I continually searched for alternative and began spending bigger $$ on lubes). Second, safety on rubber and plastic were not guaranteed for the cheap lubes since they lacked proper documents(spec sheets and etc).

My initial search for lube was intended to be used on my aging HHKB, so it had to be rubber and plastic safe. Krytox was well known lube solution for Cherry switches among Korean community, yet I didn't know how to get them and I was hopeful that there were good enough alternatives hence my search began. There may be cheaper and equally good solution, but I quickly learned from my search in cheap lube that cheap solutions don't usually work as it should. I am not an expert in lube by no means, so my search in consumer level lube may have been bound to fail and Krytox is probably an overkill. I just don't know of good enough solution that performs as well as Krytox in keyboards though. If I knew I would have recommended them, but I can only recommend and compare the lube that I have experienced and tested.

Edit: You could use SuperLube oil on the springs in place of Victorinox Tool Oil. But that's it. I wouldn't lube my stems with SuperLube any day, when Krytox is available.
« Last Edit: Tue, 10 December 2013, 16:49:18 by jdcarpe »
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5440 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 18:48:15 »
Ok thanks. Ya I was using superlube grease.  It does say on the container that it is rubber and plastic safe.

I have some krytox coming, but I have not had a chance to try it yet.

Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5441 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 21:11:33 »
I think eventually the super lube could dry out, or its so thick that it slowly sinks to the bottom of the switch and makes it feel bad.

Offline Larken

  • Posts: 624
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5442 on: Tue, 10 December 2013, 23:31:48 »
I don't know who spread this rumor that SuperLube could be used to lube switches, but it stops right here and now.

DO NOT USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE YOUR MX SWITCHES!!!

DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T USE SUPERLUBE TO LUBE SWITCHES!!!


Okay? Okay.

Krytox = yes
RO-59 = yes
Teflon lubricants = maybe

What is the reason for this?  I did not desolder my filco, but I used a very small brush and depressed the switch and painted the side tracks with a very light coat of superlube and it helped a lot. 

Is the recommendation not to use suberlube based on how it ages or what?

From others' experience:

There are several variants of Krytox lubricants. Some are widely used and are available in small quantity, some are not. If purchased in small quantity, say 1 oz, shipped price is close to $40, which I think is prohibitive for many people. If purchased in larger quantity, it is still expensive. 500g container goes over $200.

I didn't start my lube journey with Krytox. I tried to explore with cheaper alternative first, but after I experienced Krytox, I didn't really feel necessary to look at any other lube. It was that good. I tried superlube, some lube that I could get for cheap at Home Depot, reel oils, and etc. First, they weren't good enough (that is why I continually searched for alternative and began spending bigger $$ on lubes). Second, safety on rubber and plastic were not guaranteed for the cheap lubes since they lacked proper documents(spec sheets and etc).

My initial search for lube was intended to be used on my aging HHKB, so it had to be rubber and plastic safe. Krytox was well known lube solution for Cherry switches among Korean community, yet I didn't know how to get them and I was hopeful that there were good enough alternatives hence my search began. There may be cheaper and equally good solution, but I quickly learned from my search in cheap lube that cheap solutions don't usually work as it should. I am not an expert in lube by no means, so my search in consumer level lube may have been bound to fail and Krytox is probably an overkill. I just don't know of good enough solution that performs as well as Krytox in keyboards though. If I knew I would have recommended them, but I can only recommend and compare the lube that I have experienced and tested.

Edit: You could use SuperLube oil on the springs in place of Victorinox Tool Oil. But that's it. I wouldn't lube my stems with SuperLube any day, when Krytox is available.

First of all, that's way overreacting. Have you tried Superlube for switches? I have and had comparable results with using krytox mixtures. It is perfectly plastic safe.

Referring to the fact that you can lube switches using superlube as a rumor seems to infer malicious intent, which I assure you is not the case. I didn't have access to krytox at the time, tried an alternative and simply reported my results. How is this a rumor?

I have used superlube as a grease alone, as a mixture with its oil for switches, and this was over a period of 3-4 months of daily typing on a board lubed with Superlube grease alone, and with grease/oil mixtures later. It doesn't harm the switch in anyway, and while I can tell the difference between the krytox mixture and my superlube mixture in use, the feel is not inferior in anyway, just different.

The only reason why I went with Krytox in the end was because of the way Superlube degrades. I have opened up the switches months after to do further mods and found that Superlube yellows after exposure to air. That's about it. I have found that krytox doesn't suffer from the same issue, and have similarly reported it when comparing lubes. That doesn't mean that Superlube can't be used.

That said, if anyone is looking to look lube their board once and never touch it again, there is no reason they shouldn't just go for krytox now, especially with the availability of krytox mixtures now from mkawa and originative, compared to six months ago, when the difference in cost was much higher (25 for a tube of 205, and almost 20 for 103 after shipping (which was really hard to get, except from the two gbs ran by Jocelyn and you respectively), for a total of 45usd in krytox lube, compared to 15 bucks for a large quantity superlube grease and oil).

Comparatively, the krytox is the better choice now since you could get krytox for 13.50 at originative. If this had been available back then, I probably wouldn't have bothered with superlube in the first place.
« Last Edit: Tue, 10 December 2013, 23:33:26 by Larken »
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Offline yjfknt

  • Posts: 39
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5443 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 00:23:10 »
What sizes are the left (CTRL/ALT/SHIFT) of kbt pure pro?

Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5444 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 02:02:18 »
What sizes are the left (CTRL/ALT/SHIFT) of kbt pure pro?
shift is 1x
ctrl/alt is 1.25x?  Maybe something non standard.

What a ****ty layout wtf.

Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5445 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 03:05:41 »
What sizes are the left (CTRL/ALT/SHIFT) of kbt pure pro?
shift is 1x
ctrl/alt is 1.25x?  Maybe something non standard.

What a ****ty layout wtf.
where you left and right i'm confused?  :confused:
i think alt,ctrl is 1.25 shift is.....?1.80/85 maybe :))
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Offline MKULTRA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5446 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 03:15:33 »
What sizes are the left (CTRL/ALT/SHIFT) of kbt pure pro?
shift is 1x
ctrl/alt is 1.25x?  Maybe something non standard.

What a ****ty layout wtf.
where you left and right i'm confused?  :confused:
i think alt,ctrl is 1.25 shift is.....?1.80/85 maybe :))
OH I was looking at an ISO layout hahahaha my bad.  R shift looks like 1.75

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5447 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 09:08:31 »
First of all, that's way overreacting. Have you tried Superlube for switches? I have and had comparable results with using krytox mixtures. It is perfectly plastic safe.

Referring to the fact that you can lube switches using superlube as a rumor seems to infer malicious intent, which I assure you is not the case. I didn't have access to krytox at the time, tried an alternative and simply reported my results. How is this a rumor?

I have used superlube as a grease alone, as a mixture with its oil for switches, and this was over a period of 3-4 months of daily typing on a board lubed with Superlube grease alone, and with grease/oil mixtures later. It doesn't harm the switch in anyway, and while I can tell the difference between the krytox mixture and my superlube mixture in use, the feel is not inferior in anyway, just different.

The only reason why I went with Krytox in the end was because of the way Superlube degrades. I have opened up the switches months after to do further mods and found that Superlube yellows after exposure to air. That's about it. I have found that krytox doesn't suffer from the same issue, and have similarly reported it when comparing lubes. That doesn't mean that Superlube can't be used.

That said, if anyone is looking to look lube their board once and never touch it again, there is no reason they shouldn't just go for krytox now, especially with the availability of krytox mixtures now from mkawa and originative, compared to six months ago, when the difference in cost was much higher (25 for a tube of 205, and almost 20 for 103 after shipping (which was really hard to get, except from the two gbs ran by Jocelyn and you respectively), for a total of 45usd in krytox lube, compared to 15 bucks for a large quantity superlube grease and oil).

Comparatively, the krytox is the better choice now since you could get krytox for 13.50 at originative. If this had been available back then, I probably wouldn't have bothered with superlube in the first place.

Thank you, Larken, for your response and for clearing that up. I wanted to get people's attention, and may have been a bit overemphatic. As you said, there is currently no reason to use SuperLube, when better alternatives are available at a reasonable price. Six months ago, that was definitely not the case.

I think the tendency is to "lube once and forget." Being that you experienced degradation of the SuperLube, I still recommend against using it.
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Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5448 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 09:22:23 »
Is there some place where I can buy small amounts (e.g. 0.5oz vs. 1lb) of Krytox GPL 103? Searches turn up a number of past group-buys.

Is there a reason you're set on GPL103? You can use this lube kit from Sheraton which will work fine for lubing your keyboard.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm already aware of those kits. I realize now that I should have asked a different question:

I already have GPL 205 and I'm looking for an oil that can be mixed with it. I've heard that GPL 103 mixes well with it, but it's not readily available. Is there another oil that people would recommend mixing with GPL 205 that's more easily acquired?

It turns out that Miller-Stephenson sells 1/2 oz. bottles of GPL 103, though ordering involves actually calling them and requires a company name because "they won't sell to individuals". I gave them the name of my employer and used my personal card. Total was $21 plus shipping.

http://www.miller-stephenson.com/

Offline Larken

  • Posts: 624
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #5449 on: Wed, 11 December 2013, 09:45:42 »

Thank you, Larken, for your response and for clearing that up. I wanted to get people's attention, and may have been a bit overemphatic. As you said, there is currently no reason to use SuperLube, when better alternatives are available at a reasonable price. Six months ago, that was definitely not the case.

I think the tendency is to "lube once and forget." Being that you experienced degradation of the SuperLube, I still recommend against using it.

No argument from me there. It might have been a viable alternative in the past due to budget/availability concerns, but there isn't any reason to be using Superlube now that krytox is easily obtainable at comparable prices.  Not that it can't be used, but that there isn't any point to be using it now, really. I thought I should say something since I was just pmed with a query asking about mixing superlube.

That said, I agree with you that people should be looking at krytox for their lubing needs instead.

Thanks for clearing that up :D
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