Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[HoffmanMyster]

Are there any switches that can be described as light and non-clicky like MX red, but tactile? Does anyone know?

MX Brown

Some people describe them as scratchy.  If you swap between new and used browns chances are you can feel a difference as the tactile bump is pretty light.  I really like ergo clears.  Clear switches with springs from reds, blues, or browns.  Both ergo clears and browns feel really nice lubed.

I will agree that lubed browns feel really nice.

But I don't at all like ergo clears. I much prefer stock clears to ergos.

I've never used ergo clears, but I can say that lubed stock clears are really nice.  So to anyone that's considering getting some, don't think that you have to mod them for them to be enjoyable - stock clears are still good!

[Rayne]

so i dont really know if this is a simple answer question... but i thought i would ask here rather than making a new thread.
I (somewhat) recently got a GON acrylic A.87 from the classifieds, and i was wondering if it was possible to add LEDs to it, to make it back lit.
from what iv read and the text on the pcb its self, it seems you can. Im just not sure where the resistors would go... has any one here ever added LEDs to this pcb? if so how hard of a project is it?
I just want to make some sort of colorful design as a fun project.

also here are some pics of the pcb.

[CPTBadAss]

1) I (somewhat) recently got a GON acrylic A.87 from the classifieds, and i was wondering if it was possible to add LEDs to it, to make it back lit.

2) Im just not sure where the resistors would go... has any one here ever added LEDs to this pcb?

3) if so how hard of a project is it?

1) Looks like there are the proper LEDs holes in the PCB.

2) I'm not sure where the resistors would go. My KMAC has SMD resistors for the LEDs. It looks like there might be some around the chip but it looks like your picture is cutoff.

3) I don't think it's hard. But it's dependent on if you've done soldering before. Have you done any soldering before? It would probably be a 1-2 hour project for me. I've built up a few keyboards and have had soldering experience from previous jobs. If you're new, it will take you longer.

[HPE1000]

Anyone have suggestions for best matte clear coat?

I am painting a QFR gold for my brother, and it is going to be zelda themed and all his gold zelda stuff he has right now is matte.

[SpAmRaY]

Anyone have suggestions for best matte clear coat?

I am painting a QFR gold for my brother, and it is going to be zelda themed and all his gold zelda stuff he has right now is matte.

I liked this stuff

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48192.msg1050275#msg1050275

[phx]

so I have a board with MX White, I noticed that some switches dont really click, how should I go about fixing this issue? would lubing help? Or do I have to buy new switches? or springs?

[riotonthebay]

so I have a board with MX White, I noticed that some switches dont really click, how should I go about fixing this issue? would lubing help? Or do I have to buy new switches? or springs?

This is a known problem with whites. I've heard that replacing the housing can bring back the click, but I've not had much luck with that myself. Lubing will not help, as it actually dampens or removes the click from clicky switches. The only thing I know to do is replace the switches, which will require soldering. Others might have less invasive suggestions.

[SpAmRaY]

so I have a board with MX White, I noticed that some switches dont really click, how should I go about fixing this issue? would lubing help? Or do I have to buy new switches? or springs?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.msg1172831#msg1172831

^^ That might help.

EDIT: ninja'd haha

[CPTBadAss]

Anyone have suggestions for best matte clear coat?

I am painting a QFR gold for my brother, and it is going to be zelda themed and all his gold zelda stuff he has right now is matte.

I liked this stuff

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48192.msg1050275#msg1050275

I suggest reading through Photoelectric's painting thread for more information.

[shadewolf]

So, I bought the board in this post back in December, mainly for the caps:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52130.0

But I hate all of the relegendable keys on the F Row, Ins Cluster, and Arrows. Can anyone recommend a cheap Cherry board to get normal WoB caps to replace them?

[CPTBadAss]

So, I bought the board in this post back in December, mainly for the caps:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52130.0

But I hate all of the relegendable keys on the F Row, Ins Cluster, and Arrows. Can anyone recommend a cheap Cherry board to get normal WoB caps to replace them?

- G80-8100
- MY7000
- MY1800

You'll want to refer here for your preferred material. I just bought a cheap Cherry MY1800LUMUS for the White on Black POM caps

[Rayne]

1) Looks like there are the proper LEDs holes in the PCB.

2) I'm not sure where the resistors would go. My KMAC has SMD resistors for the LEDs. It looks like there might be some around the chip but it looks like your picture is cutoff.

3) I don't think it's hard. But it's dependent on if you've done soldering before. Have you done any soldering before? It would probably be a 1-2 hour project for me. I've built up a few keyboards and have had soldering experience from previous jobs. If you're new, it will take you longer.

thanks for the reply! and i have done some soldering before, i have built 2 phantoms and done some small projects for fun. so i think i can do it, just need to look into the resistors.

[phx]

so I have a board with MX White, I noticed that some switches dont really click, how should I go about fixing this issue? would lubing help? Or do I have to buy new switches? or springs?

This is a known problem with whites. I've heard that replacing the housing can bring back the click, but I've not had much luck with that myself. Lubing will not help, as it actually dampens or removes the click from clicky switches. The only thing I know to do is replace the switches, which will require soldering. Others might have less invasive suggestions.

hmm, know a place where I can pick up a few white switches? think I'll just swap them out.
dont really wanna go thru the GB on DT again

[CPTBadAss]

hmm, know a place where I can pick up a few white switches? think I'll just swap them out.
dont really wanna go thru the GB on DT again

Right now there's not really any good sources for White switches in general.

Edit: QWERKeys and MechanicalKeyboards.com are hopefully going to carry Whites at some point. I can't find the post from the MK.com rep about MX Whites though...can someone help me out?

[Zeal]

hmm, know a place where I can pick up a few white switches? think I'll just swap them out.
dont really wanna go thru the GB on DT again

Right now there's not really any good sources for White switches in general.

Edit: QWERKeys and MechanicalKeyboards.com are hopefully going to carry Whites at some point. I can't find the post from the MK.com rep about MX Whites though...can someone help me out?

Here: 

With you being a cherry partner, can you distribute ultimate switch sampling sets with all switches, even the rare ones?

Which switches are you calling rare?

Reading the OP, they asked for any available switches and all they could get at the moment were clears.

Yeah, we asked for ALL of them.  We expect to receive two more switch types at the end of the year and 4 - 5 more switch types by April.  We should have Clear, blue, green, red, brown, white, and clear plate mounts by April 2014.  Believe it or not, this is considered 'quick' as many switches are on back order for over a year.

Rest assured we're trying our absolute hardest to get as many switches and as many types of switches as possible!

So is there any truth to 'whites' being discontinued?

Apparently not the whites we have coming in

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50290.msg1103937#msg1103937

[CPTBadAss]

Thank you Zeal 

[shadewolf]

So, I bought the board in this post back in December, mainly for the caps:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52130.0

But I hate all of the relegendable keys on the F Row, Ins Cluster, and Arrows. Can anyone recommend a cheap Cherry board to get normal WoB caps to replace them?

- G80-8100
- MY7000
- MY1800

You'll want to refer here for your preferred material. I just bought a cheap Cherry MY1800LUMUS for the White on Black POM caps

Thanks!

[PeteZ]

Which layout fits best for QPAD MK-50 ?
I want to buy an ISO set from WASDkeyboards but I'm unsure if the R1 keys are the same.
(ye im a newbie here, hi all
ye im new to mechanical keyboard, WOHOO awesome feeling)

[CPTBadAss]

Which layout fits best for QPAD MK-50 ?
I want to buy an ISO set from WASDkeyboards but I'm unsure if the R1 keys are the same.

The mod row/bottom row is weird. Looks like:
1.5x - 1x - 1.5x - 6.25x - 1.5x - 1x - 1x - 1.5x

You'll probably have to get an ISO kit, and two Tsangan kits in order to fill it out. WASDKeyboards don't have the Tsangan kit for the modifer row.

[yasuo]

Does SP can make? DCS
R1=1.75,1.25,2.25
R2=1.25
R3=1.25,1.5

 

[CPTBadAss]

Does SP can make? DCS
R1=1.75,1.25,2.25
R2=1.25
R3=1.25,1.5

 

Check out their inventory and info here.

[yasuo]

WASDkb uses cherry profile/OEM?
Is DSA Retro uses printing DS/DYE/Engraved laser?
what font used?
 

[CPTBadAss]

1) WASDkb uses cherry profile/OEM?
2) Is DSA Retro uses printing DS/DYE/Engraved laser?
3) what font used?

1) OEM
2) Doubleshot
3) Answer can be found in the OP

[xredman]

What switches do this keyboard use? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/syd/4258880146.html

[CPTBadAss]

What switches do this keyboard use? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/syd/4258880146.html

Looks like this keyboard was made in 1985. If we look at the DT Wiki, it looks like it's a Keytronic foam and foil capacitive keyboard. There seems to be two types of foam and foil = Linear and Tactile. So ask the seller what it feels like.

[HPE1000]

Any chance this has cherry mx switches and which? If it does pls dont buy it, I want it bad :/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYSE-901861-26-Beige-Keyboard-PS2-Generic-US-NEW-A249-/111230931183?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item19e5e150ef
I'm terrible with vintage keyboards and have no clue if it is.

[kmiller8]

Any chance this has cherry mx switches and which? If it does pls dont buy it, I want it bad :/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYSE-901861-26-Beige-Keyboard-PS2-Generic-US-NEW-A249-/111230931183?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item19e5e150ef
I'm terrible with vintage keyboards and have no clue if it is.

rubber d-d-d-omes

[demik]

Any chance this has cherry mx switches and which? If it does pls dont buy it, I want it bad :/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYSE-901861-26-Beige-Keyboard-PS2-Generic-US-NEW-A249-/111230931183?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item19e5e150ef
I'm terrible with vintage keyboards and have no clue if it is.

quick way to find out if it has RD or MX.. if it doesn't have the triangular yellow arrows (or any yellow arrows, as some have normal arrows.. but still yellow), it's 99.9% RD.

[HPE1000]

Any chance this has cherry mx switches and which? If it does pls dont buy it, I want it bad :/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYSE-901861-26-Beige-Keyboard-PS2-Generic-US-NEW-A249-/111230931183?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item19e5e150ef
I'm terrible with vintage keyboards and have no clue if it is.

rubber d-d-d-omes

Noooooooooooo

Thanks

[Melvang]

Any chance this has cherry mx switches and which? If it does pls dont buy it, I want it bad :/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYSE-901861-26-Beige-Keyboard-PS2-Generic-US-NEW-A249-/111230931183?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item19e5e150ef
I'm terrible with vintage keyboards and have no clue if it is.

quick way to find out if it has RD or MX.. if it doesn't have the triangular yellow arrows (or any yellow arrows, as some have normal arrows.. but still yellow), it's 99.9% RD.

I have a WYSE terminal board with all black on gray double shots on all the keys that is MX blacks.  But the case says LINK not WYSE.

[yasuo]

How height ISO enter like 2.00  stand position?

[Choker]

What's the weight of left ctrl, left alt and left win keys on a variable weight Realforce? Are they 30g or 45g?

PS. Please answer this question if you have a realforce variable and you can feel it. I know I can google "realforce variable weight" and find a picture showing the weight areas, but I don't want to trust that picture because it could be wrong.

Thanks!

[CPTBadAss]

What's the weight of left ctrl, left alt and left win keys on a variable weight Realforce? Are they 30g or 45g?

PS. Please answer this question if you have a realforce variable and you can feel it. I know I can google "realforce variable weight" and find a picture showing the weight areas, but I don't want to trust that picture because it could be wrong.

Yeah...No one is going to be able to press down on a key and say "yup, that's 45g". Everyone you ask will tell you something different since everyone experiences touch a different way. So you'll have to a) get the board and try it for yourself or b) trust the picture.

How height ISO enter like 2.00  stand position?

I'm not understanding this question.

[Choker]

Well seems you didn't get me.

For people who have the board on hand, they can certainly tell me, because the letters that's supposed to be pressed by pinky, Z for instance, is 30g, and letters in the middle, F for instance, is 45g, and you can certainly tell the difference, and the sound is difference too. Therefore you know the weight of Ctrl just by pressing them.

I want to know because my left pinky hurts from pressing Ctrl too often,  and I think the realforce variable weight could solve this problem, but when I look at the picture, it shows left Ctrl is 45g, which I think doesn't make sense, because the variable weight is supposed to ease your pinky. 

What's the weight of left ctrl, left alt and left win keys on a variable weight Realforce? Are they 30g or 45g?

PS. Please answer this question if you have a realforce variable and you can feel it. I know I can google "realforce variable weight" and find a picture showing the weight areas, but I don't want to trust that picture because it could be wrong.

Yeah...No one is going to be able to press down on a key and say "yup, that's 45g". Everyone you ask will tell you something different since everyone experiences touch a different way. So you'll have to a) get the board and try it for yourself or b) trust the picture.

How height ISO enter like 2.00  stand position?

I'm not understanding this question.

[Wildcard]

Give me a few minutes to pull out my variable realforce and take some photos.

[CPTBadAss]

Give me a few minutes to pull out my variable realforce and take some photos.

<3 Thank you Wildcard

[Wildcard]

Ok the left Ctrl is definitely heaver. Mine registers about 48g. The left "A" alpha was right at 30g.

[CPTBadAss]

Well seems you didn't get me.

For people who have the board on hand, they can certainly tell me, because the letters that's supposed to be pressed by pinky, Z for instance, is 30g, and letters in the middle, F for instance, is 45g, and you can certainly tell the difference, and the sound is difference too. Therefore you know the weight of Ctrl just by pressing them.

I want to know because my left pinky hurts from pressing Ctrl too often,  and I think the realforce variable weight could solve this problem, but when I look at the picture, it shows left Ctrl is 45g, which I think doesn't make sense, because the variable weight is supposed to ease your pinky. 

More

What's the weight of left ctrl, left alt and left win keys on a variable weight Realforce? Are they 30g or 45g?

PS. Please answer this question if you have a realforce variable and you can feel it. I know I can google "realforce variable weight" and find a picture showing the weight areas, but I don't want to trust that picture because it could be wrong.

Yeah...No one is going to be able to press down on a key and say "yup, that's 45g". Everyone you ask will tell you something different since everyone experiences touch a different way. So you'll have to a) get the board and try it for yourself or b) trust the picture.

Ok the left Ctrl is definitely heaver. Mine registers about 48g. The left "A" alpha was right at 30g.

So would you say that it follows this diagram Wildcard?


(I think the image is from Realforce but I'm not 100%. I got it from here and here.)

Looks like khaangaaroo posted some of his experience as well as OO2. OO2 posted this nice chart of his own personal measurements as well:

[Wildcard]

Now that I'm not on my phone.

Take a look at the force graph that Realforce uses in their specs (credit to EK who I sourced this photo from)



I do think that graph CPT is spot on.

The intent was to make typing easier on the the keys that are most used when typing (i.e. alphas). I'm assuming they left the modifiers at 45g to prevent accidental key presses. I know that I tend to accidentally press some alphas because the 30g is just way to light for me.

I know that this isn't always the perfect solution for everyone which is why some members have gone so far as to buy 30g domes and mod the boards to all 30g, or have made modifications to the standard Realforce variable layout. When you open the board up you quickly realize that there isn't one full sheet of domes, but there is several cut pieces strategically placed to give the layout shown above.

[CPTBadAss]

Thanks for your help Wildcard! My Topre knowledge is lacking .

[Wildcard]

Glad I could shed some light on the subject. I just wish I could find my photo of the board opened up to show the unique dome layout.

[SpAmRaY]

Glad I could shed some light on the subject. I just wish I could find my photo of the board opened up to show the unique dome layout.

If you find it I would be very interested in seeing that!

[yasuo]

How height ISO enter like 2.00  stand position?

I'm not understanding this question.

Is height ISO enter like 2.u size with stand position?
and where i can get ISO enter steeped?

[Choker]

Thank you so much Wildcard and CPTBadAss!!

[Melvang]

So a while ago I saw a post where someone had taken a square punch (14mm) with the correct sized die and made it longer to help prototype layouts.  Does anyone know where this thread is or where I might be able to get my hands on this type of punch?  I have done some digging but can't seem to find what I am looking for.  The wife wants me to build her a keyboard but she wants a "gaming pad" on the left side with the right side being a 75% layout.  However, she doesn't want the "WASD" set to the standard .75" spacing because she says it feels cramped due to her being used to this keyboard.  So I was wanting to find that punch to do some layout work before I get a plate cut.

Any help here will be appreciated.

[Wildcard]

Glad I could shed some light on the subject. I just wish I could find my photo of the board opened up to show the unique dome layout.

If you find it I would be very interested in seeing that!

I'm going to have to open the board up again soon to test a few modifications. I'll post the photos in a new thread

[Zeal]

I guess I'll ask here as I didn't get a response in the lubing thread.

Has anyone tried the GH Lubekit on Originative and compared it to the regular 103/205 Krytox mixture for Ergo-Clears?
What are the differences between Krytox GPL 206/1506 vs 103/205?

Thanks in advance for answering.

[Xest]

Hello, im wondering if Mimic's sleeved mini usb cables fit the Ducky Shine 3 because i heard they are too thick to fit in the channels

[CommonCurt]

Quick question.

I would like to have a off center caps lock on my Filco.  What dictates a board having a off center caps lock?  Is it the plate, the PCB, or both?

[yasuo]

Quick question.
I would like to have a off center caps lock on my Filco.  What dictates a board having a off center caps lock?  Is it the plate, the PCB, or both?

both so maybe buy a phantom and plate,for plate you can see on CAD Resource