Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Karura]

2x3x4 is brighter and, IMO, has a better diffuse glow.  The 1.8mm has a weird heavy concentric glow with heavy falloff on the edges.  That said, both are nice, but it you want bright, 2x3x4 is the way to go.

And, for the record, I've used TA PBT, Cherry caps, and others with no issue with 2x3x4.  I think it's mainly Imsto that has issues with it.

Thanks for the reply. I will definitely go with 2x3x4 ones then

Gotta have max glows + pair it up with clear switch tops!

[Melvang]

Use soarers on the XT or the BigFoot?  I was under the impression that it won't work on the bigfoot due to not having a controller on board.

edit: here
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48950.msg1224258#msg1224258

He says he got it working with soarers.

It does not have a controller on the board but does have a thing that helps to interpret the capacitive matrix, so it was easy for him to convert.

side note: the schematic of this KB was instrumental in figuring out how to make a capacitive controller for general model F use.

edit: note this is his KB controller code, not protocol converter code.

So essentially all I need for hardware is a teensy, some wire and a cable from teensy to PC then, correct?  Just wire it up, load the firmware and away I go.  Or is it a touch more involved than that?

[CommonCurt]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

[SavvyBird]

Why is the hhkb called the "happy hacking" keyboard.

[CPTBadAss]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

I flip the plate over and push out the switches with my thumbs.

Why is the hhkb called the "happy hacking" keyboard.

That's what PFU and Wada decided to name it?

[KeyZero]

For the Poker II, is it possible to map arrow keys where Right Alt/Right Win/Menu/ Ctrl is and move caps lock around? I presume other buttons like media control on my V60 (Back/Play/Pause/Forward) can be mapped as well as Print Screen and other keys too? I see there's a certain key limit but I don't think I'll hit/need that for mapping but it's good to know.

[SpAmRaY]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

To save thumbs I use a rubberized screwdriver (or other small tool) handle to push them out.

[CommonCurt]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

I flip the plate over and push out the switches with my thumbs.

Why is the hhkb called the "happy hacking" keyboard.

That's what PFU and Wada decided to name it?

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

To save thumbs I use a rubberized screwdriver (or other small tool) handle to push them out.

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

[SpAmRaY]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

To save thumbs I use a rubberized screwdriver (or other small tool) handle to push them out.

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

It's just pressure fit and just pops out. I've never seen damage done to the top of the plate. Also depending on the plate some switches almost fall out on there own.

[HoffmanMyster]

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

I flip the plate over and push out the switches with my thumbs.

Why is the hhkb called the "happy hacking" keyboard.

That's what PFU and Wada decided to name it?

When desoldering plate mount Cherry MX switches, what's the best way to get the switches out without damaging the plate or switch housing?

To save thumbs I use a rubberized screwdriver (or other small tool) handle to push them out.

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

As Ray mentioned, a lot of plates are thick enough that those latches don't actually snap in, but I know that GON notches his plates in the back to make the plate thinner and thus allow them to actually snap in.  He also makes a neat little tool that can be used to remove switches easily.  I suspect this is what you're looking for.  If you aren't buying a keyboard from him, shipping will be really expensive, so you may have to look into building your own or some other alternative.

[CPTBadAss]

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

Pinch? You just push them out. It's a press fit. I doubt that plastic will scratch the plate and I've never scratched a plate like that.

[SpAmRaY]

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

As Ray mentioned, a lot of plates are thick enough that those latches don't actually snap in, but I know that GON notches his plates in the back to make the plate thinner and thus allow them to actually snap in.  He also makes a neat little tool that can be used to remove switches easily.  I suspect this is what you're looking for.  If you aren't buying a keyboard from him, shipping will be really expensive, so you may have to look into building your own or some other alternative.

Another thing to add to my list to buy one day, even though I doubt I need it. Thanks for the info Hoff, hadn't seen this before.

[CommonCurt]

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

Pinch? You just push them out. It's a press fit. I doubt that plastic will scratch the plate and I've never scratched a plate likt hat.

So once the switch is desoldered it will just slide out without having to push in those plastic latches on the top side of the plate?

After I desoldered the switches those little plastic clips still held the switches in pretty strong.

[CPTBadAss]

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

Pinch? You just push them out. It's a press fit. I doubt that plastic will scratch the plate and I've never scratched a plate likt hat.

So once the switch is desoldered it will just slide out without having to push in those plastic latches on the top side of the plate?

After I desoldered the switches those little plastic clips still held the switches in pretty strong.

I've desoldered at least three boards with plates now? I desolder them, separate the plate/switches from the PCB, then push all the switches out by hand. I don't pinch or push anything in terms of the switches.

What plastic latches are you referring to on the plate? Can you take a picture?

[CommonCurt]

What about the little  plastic latches that hold the switches to the plate? Trying to pinch those in is going to scratch the top of the plate.

Pinch? You just push them out. It's a press fit. I doubt that plastic will scratch the plate and I've never scratched a plate likt hat.

So once the switch is desoldered it will just slide out without having to push in those plastic latches on the top side of the plate?

After I desoldered the switches those little plastic clips still held the switches in pretty strong.

I've desoldered at least three boards with plates now? I desolder them, separate the plate/switches from the PCB, then push all the switches out by hand. I don't pinch or push anything in terms of the switches.

What plastic latches are you referring to on the plate? Can you take a picture?

Okay thanks.

I'm not separating the plate from the PCB. I'm trying to take them out one at a time right after a switch is desoldered.

[Hzza]

I use an IC extractor (I think that's what the tool was called) to pull Cherry switches, using it to pop the tabs on the top/bottom of the switch and pull the switch out through the plate. I've used it on about 3 boards so far and not damaged a single plate (2x anodised Phantom plates and 1 stock Filco plate). I guess if you were worried about scratching the plate you could wrap the ends of the tool in masking tape or something? Or even mask the plate I guess.

The reason I don't poke them through the plate once the board has been desoldered anymore is that one time I put a screwdriver through the palm of my hand trying to get a particularly stubborn switch out...

edit - this is the tool I use
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ic-extraction-tool-fd54j

[CommonCurt]

I use an IC extractor (I think that's what the tool was called) to pull Cherry switches, using it to pop the tabs on the top/bottom of the switch and pull the switch out through the plate. I've used it on about 3 boards so far and not damaged a single plate (2x anodised Phantom plates and 1 stock Filco plate). I guess if you were worried about scratching the plate you could wrap the ends of the tool in masking tape or something? Or even mask the plate I guess.

The reason I don't poke them through the plate once the board has been desoldered anymore is that one time I put a screwdriver through the palm of my hand trying to get a particularly stubborn switch out...

edit - this is the tool I use
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ic-extraction-tool-fd54j

I actually think I have some of those.

Thanks for the tip.

[CPTBadAss]

I would love to hear back from you as to which method worked best for you. Just because I did it one way doesn't make that the ideal way.

[CommonCurt]

I would love to hear back from you as to which method worked best for you. Just because I did it one way doesn't make that the ideal way.

Okay, will do 

[asgeirtj]

Is it possible to replace costar stabilizers on a board with cherry stabilizers?

[CPTBadAss]

Is it possible to replace costar stabilizers on a board with cherry stabilizers?

It might be a little hard. Jdcarpe has custom plates which have both the Costar and Cherry stabilizer holes. The Costar slots are a bit thinner and longer than the Cherry ones. If you could weld/epoxy enough material for the stabilizers to sit in, you might be able to do it. I'm leaning towards a probably not worth the time but it's definitely possible.

[CommonCurt]

I would love to hear back from you as to which method worked best for you. Just because I did it one way doesn't make that the ideal way.

Well I did happen to have an old IC extractor, and I have to say it was the easiest method for me. 

I just couldn't get the switches to pop out with out pressing those little plastic tabs that secure them to the plate.  I probably could have, but I didn't feel comfortable using that much force. 

Still ended up getting a few scratches on the top of the plate though.

[CPTBadAss]

I just couldn't get the switches to pop out with out pressing those little plastic tabs that secure them to the plate.  I probably could have, but I didn't feel comfortable using that much force. 

Still ended up getting a few scratches on the top of the plate though.

I still don't understand what plastic tabs you're referring to. Did you happen to take a picture?

[Hzza]

Above the "Cherry" logo and below the LED slot on the sides of the switch are 2 little plastic tabs that click into (I think) 1.6mm thick plates to hold the switches in place.

You can see the front one in that picture.

[CPTBadAss]

Above the "Cherry" logo and below the LED slot on the sides of the switch are 2 little plastic tabs that click into (I think) 1.6mm thick plates to hold the switches in place.

You can see the front one in that picture.

Ohhh, you mean those little legs that you solder into the PCB?

[Hzza]

Nope, circled.

[CPTBadAss]

Nope, circled.

(Attachment Link)

Huh...I've never had a problem with those. That's interesting though. Thanks Hzza.

[HoffmanMyster]

Nope, circled.

(Attachment Link)

Huh...I've never had a problem with those. That's interesting though. Thanks Hzza.

As I said above, some plates are thick enough that those never actually snap around the plate, and it ends up being a "press fit" as you described.  On a plate slightly thinner (GON plates with the notches, for example), they will snap in and make it harder to get the switch out.  I would say that *most* custom plates that we order in steel and aluminum end up being on the thicker end, but that's conjecture / my experiences only.

[CPTBadAss]

As I said above, some plates are thick enough that those never actually snap around the plate, and it ends up being a "press fit" as you described.  On a plate slightly thinner (GON plates with the notches, for example), they will snap in and make it harder to get the switch out.  I would say that *most* custom plates that we order in steel and aluminum end up being on the thicker end, but that's conjecture / my experiences only.

I know that you posted that but I didn't comprehend what exactly was being snapped in until Hzza posted the picture.

[SpAmRaY]

As I said above, some plates are thick enough that those never actually snap around the plate, and it ends up being a "press fit" as you described.  On a plate slightly thinner (GON plates with the notches, for example), they will snap in and make it harder to get the switch out.  I would say that *most* custom plates that we order in steel and aluminum end up being on the thicker end, but that's conjecture / my experiences only.

I know that you posted that but I didn't comprehend what exactly was being snapped in until Hzza posted the picture.

This helped me understand what was going on

[CPTBadAss]

This helped me understand what was going on

Thanks . Wish that youtube workaround would happen soon.

[asgeirtj]

What is the advantage of a programmable keyboard?  I use autohotkey to change the function of some keys, seems good enough.  Only drawback I can think is that if I'm using my keyboard on another computer it's not already preconfigured.  So what is the draw of programmable keyboards?

[CPTBadAss]

What is the advantage of a programmable keyboard?  I use autohotkey to change the function of some keys, seems good enough.  Only drawback I can think is that if I'm using my keyboard on another computer it's not already preconfigured.  So what is the draw of programmable keyboards?

I've never used Autohotkey myself but I think autohotkey doesn't have every function a programmable board could have. For example, I can setup multiple layers on my 6019284. Apparently, as I understand it, you cannot program function layers in Autohotkey?

[BlueBär]

Only drawback I can think is that if I'm using my keyboard on another computer it's not already preconfigured.

That's exactly what the advantage is. You also don't need to run any other software in the background and often program LEDs which is kinda cool.

I've never used Autohotkey myself but I think autohotkey doesn't have every function a programmable board could have. For example, I can setup multiple layers on my 6019284. Apparently, as I understand it, you cannot program function layers in Autohotkey?

You can kind of. It works better on a hardware layer though.

[CommonCurt]

Nope, circled.

(Attachment Link)

Huh...I've never had a problem with those. That's interesting though. Thanks Hzza.

Yep,  those things 

[Puddsy]

Nope, circled.

(Attachment Link)

Huh...I've never had a problem with those. That's interesting though. Thanks Hzza.

I had some issues with them on my QFR.

[MGH]

Anybody know what dimensions the bottom row of a Filco Minila is?

[Puddsy]

Anybody know what dimensions the bottom row of a Filco Minila is?

1.75x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 3x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 1x -> 1x -> 1x ->1x

[MGH]

Anybody know what dimensions the bottom row of a Filco Minila is?

1.75x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 3x -> 1.25x -> 1.25x -> 1x -> 1x -> 1x ->1x

Gracias

[minho]

Does the color/profile/thickness of Ivan R2 match that of a IMSTO classic beige PBT set?

[henz]

Can i get retail mx lock switches form anywhere?

[CPTBadAss]

Does the color/profile/thickness of Ivan R2 match that of a IMSTO classic beige PBT set?

I honestly thought that imsto made those caps but I'm mistaken.

Can i get retail mx lock switches form anywhere?

I thought online-components had them for sale.

[Photekq]

I honestly thought that imsto made those caps but I'm mistaken.

Am I missing something?

Imsto did make Ivan's R2

[CPTBadAss]

I honestly thought that imsto made those caps but I'm mistaken.

Am I missing something?

Imsto did make Ivan's R2

Is that post referring to that R2 buy or another discussion within the thread? I only glanced through that page before posting and could have misunderstood. And thanks...I knew I wasn't going crazy.

[Photekq]

Is that post referring to that R2 buy or another discussion within the thread? I only glanced through that page before posting and could have misunderstood. And thanks...I knew I wasn't going crazy.

It's referring to requests for beige fulltouch caps locks made by imsto, I think.

[SpAmRaY]

I honestly thought that imsto made those caps but I'm mistaken.

Am I missing something?

Imsto did make Ivan's R2

Is that post referring to that R2 buy or another discussion within the thread? I only glanced through that page before posting and could have misunderstood. And thanks...I knew I wasn't going crazy.

That discussion was about getting the correct color fulltouch capslock key re-ran/remade since they made it in the wrong color but the factory/imsto wasn't interested in doing it.

ninja'd by photekq but posting anyways as confirmation 

[CPTBadAss]

Is that post referring to that R2 buy or another discussion within the thread? I only glanced through that page before posting and could have misunderstood. And thanks...I knew I wasn't going crazy.

It's referring to requests for beige fulltouch caps locks made by imsto, I think.

Ok. So then my initial gut thought is correct according to photekq. imsto made Ivan's R2 so it will match imsto's classic beige PBT set. Thanks photekq for confirming that I'm not crazy yet .

Does the color/profile/thickness of Ivan R2 match that of a IMSTO classic beige PBT set?

[yasuo]

can i get cherry spring retail anywhere?
how make switch smooth not friction sst, can i use oil tamiya?

[CPTBadAss]

1) can i get cherry spring retail anywhere?
2) how make switch smooth not friction sst,
3) can i use oil tamiya?

1) Just the spring? No.
2) A quick Google search yields:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59041.0
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0

3) Can you use that specific oil? I don't know. But you can do an experiment and tell us what you think of it.

[yasuo]

1) can i get cherry spring retail anywhere?
2) how make switch smooth not friction sst, can i use oil tamiya?

1) Just the spring? No.
2) A quick Google search yields:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59041.0
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34332.0

yes, why? what size spring cherry(dimension)?