Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Melvang]

Could someone recommend me a good ps2-->usb adapter for my Cheat? I have a few cheap ones lying around, but I'm sure they aren't going to be powerful enough to drive the keyboard, was thinking about this but would like some feedback from others on what might work best.

Not sure if he still has any left but mkawa had some good ones up on his geekhackers store.

Yeah, the ID innovations one is nice, techkeys currently has it, but it's a little more than I'm looking to spend right now, will definitely go for it if there aren't any cheaper options.

The other one I keep hearing people talk about is the blue cube.

[Flyersfan1]

Could someone recommend me a good ps2-->usb adapter for my Cheat? I have a few cheap ones lying around, but I'm sure they aren't going to be powerful enough to drive the keyboard, was thinking about this but would like some feedback from others on what might work best.

Not sure if he still has any left but mkawa had some good ones up on his geekhackers store.

Yeah, the ID innovations one is nice, techkeys currently has it, but it's a little more than I'm looking to spend right now, will definitely go for it if there aren't any cheaper options.

The other one I keep hearing people talk about is the blue cube.

I'm assuming that's the one I linked? 

[hwood34]

Could someone recommend me a good ps2-->usb adapter for my Cheat? I have a few cheap ones lying around, but I'm sure they aren't going to be powerful enough to drive the keyboard, was thinking about this but would like some feedback from others on what might work best.

Not sure if he still has any left but mkawa had some good ones up on his geekhackers store.

Yeah, the ID innovations one is nice, techkeys currently has it, but it's a little more than I'm looking to spend right now, will definitely go for it if there aren't any cheaper options.

The other one I keep hearing people talk about is the blue cube.

I'm assuming that's the one I linked? 

Yep, that's the one I've always used, never had any problems

[rowdy]

Could someone recommend me a good ps2-->usb adapter for my Cheat? I have a few cheap ones lying around, but I'm sure they aren't going to be powerful enough to drive the keyboard, was thinking about this but would like some feedback from others on what might work best.

Not sure if he still has any left but mkawa had some good ones up on his geekhackers store.

Yeah, the ID innovations one is nice, techkeys currently has it, but it's a little more than I'm looking to spend right now, will definitely go for it if there aren't any cheaper options.

FWIW I can recommend the ID innovations one (I got mine from mkawa, but the TechKeys one is the same).

If it can get a Model M via an AT to PS/2 adaptor then the ID innovations PS/2 to USB converter connected to a Mac and working, it should work for anything!

[pr0ximity]

The other one I keep hearing people talk about is the blue cube.

I'm assuming that's the one I linked? 

Yep, that's the one I've always used, never had any problems

My 356 Mini had a bunch of issues using the BlueCube. Lots of repeated and stuck keys. Got a Monoprice active adapter and it works great:

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Keyboard-Converter-Adapter-110934/dp/B00IACID2C

BlueCube works great for my Model M, but for some reason the 356 is very temperamental.

[Zustiur]

Where is the best place to find conventional wisdom about optimal ergonomic angle (in terms of wrist roll) for split keyboards?
I'm sure I read a discussion on it in the Ergonomics section ages ago but I have no recollection of what the thread was actually about.

[jdcarpe]

Where is the best place to find conventional wisdom about optimal ergonomic angle (in terms of wrist roll) for split keyboards?
I'm sure I read a discussion on it in the Ergonomics section ages ago but I have no recollection of what the thread was actually about.

You should PM hoggy. He's the go-to guy for ergo stuff.

[greath]

Hey,

I'm about to start my Leeku build. I wanted to make sure I was doing the SMD soldering correctly before I started it.



1. Are the diodes and resistors next to their corresponding pads?
2. The diode has a line on one side. I'm assuming align that with the black bar on the pcb?

[jdcarpe]

Hey,

I'm about to start my Leeku build. I wanted to make sure I was doing the SMD soldering correctly before I started it.

Show Image

1. Are the diodes and resistors next to their corresponding pads?
2. The diode has a line on one side. I'm assuming align that with the black bar on the pcb?

1. Yes, you have them placed correctly.
2. Yes, line up the line on the diode with the black bar on the silkscreen.

[greath]

Hey,

I'm about to start my Leeku build. I wanted to make sure I was doing the SMD soldering correctly before I started it.

Show Image

1. Are the diodes and resistors next to their corresponding pads?
2. The diode has a line on one side. I'm assuming align that with the black bar on the pcb?

1. Yes, you have them placed correctly.
2. Yes, line up the line on the diode with the black bar on the silkscreen.

Thanks JD  :thumb:

Wish me luck!

[jdcarpe]

Hey,

I'm about to start my Leeku build. I wanted to make sure I was doing the SMD soldering correctly before I started it.

Show Image

1. Are the diodes and resistors next to their corresponding pads?
2. The diode has a line on one side. I'm assuming align that with the black bar on the pcb?

1. Yes, you have them placed correctly.
2. Yes, line up the line on the diode with the black bar on the silkscreen.

Thanks JD  :thumb:

Wish me luck!

Good luck!

[Wilba]

I have a Dolch PAC, everything original, which I love typing on... but the "click" sound is inconsistent across keys. Some have a loud and clear click like a buckling spring, while others are much softer and more of a rattle sound. Excuse my n00b terms for these things Does anyone know what the cause is? Is it something I could fix?

[jdcarpe]

I have a Dolch PAC, everything original, which I love typing on... but the "click" sound is inconsistent across keys. Some have a loud and clear click like a buckling spring, while others are much softer and more of a rattle sound. Excuse my n00b terms for these things Does anyone know what the cause is? Is it something I could fix?

The cause is MX Blue switches.

/snark

But seriously, all MX clicky switches have inconsistent click, from blues to greens to whites.

[SpAmRaY]

I have a Dolch PAC, everything original, which I love typing on... but the "click" sound is inconsistent across keys. Some have a loud and clear click like a buckling spring, while others are much softer and more of a rattle sound. Excuse my n00b terms for these things Does anyone know what the cause is? Is it something I could fix?

You might find this recent thread helpful https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72807.0

[Wilba]

I have a Dolch PAC, everything original, which I love typing on... but the "click" sound is inconsistent across keys. Some have a loud and clear click like a buckling spring, while others are much softer and more of a rattle sound. Excuse my n00b terms for these things Does anyone know what the cause is? Is it something I could fix?

You might find this recent thread helpful https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72807.0

Sheesh... posted 2 days ago, don't I look foolish now    thanks!

[greath]

For the resistors on my build: I originally used a calculation I found on GH and, based on some orange LEDs I found on ebay, got 1.3k ohm as what I should be using. However, when I emailed kin I asked "should I be using 1.3k?" and he said: 1300 will be dim, 680-820 will be bright, any resistance will work. I was under the impression you had to use specific resistances for specific colors of LED. Is this correct?



I know it's a little sloppy but does this look like it will work ok? This is as difficult as I thought it would be. I need better eyes. lol

[Blaise170]

Better eyes?  )

[greath]

Better eyes?  )

Show Image

I got an Optivisor that works pretty well:



Still damn hard to see.

[MAR82]

Show Image

I know it's a little sloppy but does this look like it will work ok? This is as difficult as I thought it would be. I need better eyes. lol

Sure looks better than the first time I tried  :thumb:
Those SMDs can be a real pain

[user 18]

For the resistors on my build: I originally used a calculation I found on GH and, based on some orange LEDs I found on ebay, got 1.3k ohm as what I should be using. However, when I emailed kin I asked "should I be using 1.3k?" and he said: 1300 will be dim, 680-820 will be bright, any resistance will work. I was under the impression you had to use specific resistances for specific colors of LED. Is this correct?

Show Image

I know it's a little sloppy but does this look like it will work ok? This is as difficult as I thought it would be. I need better eyes. lol

Any resistance will theoretically work, so long as you don't run more electricity through the LED than it can support. Generally, one wants keyboard LEDs to be dim, but using differently-rated resistors allows varying brightness. The calculations you found here were meant likely meant to match LEDs to a relatively dim setting.

You want a resistor to limit current, as putting too much current through a LED can fry it. Higher-rated resistor = lower current through LED = less brightness.

[greath]

For the resistors on my build: I originally used a calculation I found on GH and, based on some orange LEDs I found on ebay, got 1.3k ohm as what I should be using. However, when I emailed kin I asked "should I be using 1.3k?" and he said: 1300 will be dim, 680-820 will be bright, any resistance will work. I was under the impression you had to use specific resistances for specific colors of LED. Is this correct?

Show Image

I know it's a little sloppy but does this look like it will work ok? This is as difficult as I thought it would be. I need better eyes. lol

Any resistance will theoretically work, so long as you don't run more electricity through the LED than it can support. Generally, one wants keyboard LEDs to be dim, but using differently-rated resistors allows varying brightness. The calculations you found here were meant likely meant to match LEDs to a relatively dim setting.

You want a resistor to limit current, as putting too much current through a LED can fry it. Higher-rated resistor = lower current through LED = less brightness.

Thanks!

I have finished soldering the diodes. Not the switches and only a couple of the resistors. Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

[phoenix1234]

Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

You don't need to solder on in order to test the led brightness with different resistors.
For long term, you can use a breadboard kit


For short term, a small few alligators test clips would be just fine


If you don't have any 5V power supply, it would be a small problem, however.

You can create 5V power supply from 4xAAA battery

then use a step-down to reduce from 6V to 5V

It would be better if you have an adapter 5V output or an old PSU because you can create a DIY power supply with direct 5V.

[njbair]

More

Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

You don't need to solder on in order to test the led brightness with different resistors.
For long term, you can use a breadboard kit

Show Image

For short term, a small few alligators test clips would be just fine

Show Image

If you don't have any 5V power supply, it would be a small problem, however.

You can create 5V power supply from 4xAAA battery

Show Image

then use a step-down to reduce from 6V to 5V

It would be better if you have an adapter 5V output or an old PSU because you can create a DIY power supply with direct 5V.

Don't forget, USB is 5V. So if you have an old powered hub or a phone charger and a sacrificial USB cable, you can decapitate one end of the cable, strip the power & gnd wires and tin them, and you've got a pretty well-regulated 5V USB power supply.

Technically you could use one of your computer's USB ports but I generally don't recommend building test circuits that are tied into expensive gear like a PC.

[greath]

More

Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

You don't need to solder on in order to test the led brightness with different resistors.
For long term, you can use a breadboard kit

Show Image

For short term, a small few alligators test clips would be just fine

Show Image

If you don't have any 5V power supply, it would be a small problem, however.

You can create 5V power supply from 4xAAA battery

Show Image

then use a step-down to reduce from 6V to 5V

It would be better if you have an adapter 5V output or an old PSU because you can create a DIY power supply with direct 5V.

Don't forget, USB is 5V. So if you have an old powered hub or a phone charger and a sacrificial USB cable, you can decapitate one end of the cable, strip the power & gnd wires and tin them, and you've got a pretty well-regulated 5V USB power supply.

Technically you could use one of your computer's USB ports but I generally don't recommend building test circuits that are tied into expensive gear like a PC.

Great idea. Thanks!

[Melvang]

More

Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

You don't need to solder on in order to test the led brightness with different resistors.
For long term, you can use a breadboard kit

Show Image

For short term, a small few alligators test clips would be just fine

Show Image

If you don't have any 5V power supply, it would be a small problem, however.

You can create 5V power supply from 4xAAA battery

Show Image

then use a step-down to reduce from 6V to 5V

It would be better if you have an adapter 5V output or an old PSU because you can create a DIY power supply with direct 5V.

Don't forget, USB is 5V. So if you have an old powered hub or a phone charger and a sacrificial USB cable, you can decapitate one end of the cable, strip the power & gnd wires and tin them, and you've got a pretty well-regulated 5V USB power supply.

Technically you could use one of your computer's USB ports but I generally don't recommend building test circuits that are tied into expensive gear like a PC.

Great idea. Thanks!

With modern hardware you would be fine.  I have done it.  Pretty much worst case scenerio for anything newer than at least Windows 7, is you will get an error message saying that the port has attempted to draw to much power and has been shut down.

If you are testing stuff from different power sources, you can possibly introduce ground loops.  Not to sure how much possible damage could be done with it, but I feel it would still be a possibility.

[Zustiur]

Does Mechanical Keyboards.com usually send a 'your product has been shipped' email? I've got the the order confirmation but nothing else.

[SpAmRaY]

Does Mechanical Keyboards.com usually send a 'your product has been shipped' email? I've got the the order confirmation but nothing else.

Typically yes but in my experience sometimes they don't come through. You can email their support and they can tell you.

[digi]

Why are 3mm purple leds so much cheaper than 1.8mm led's? I need a few to change the 3 indicator led's on my 1800 case.

[njbair]

Why are 3mm purple leds so much cheaper than 1.8mm led's? I need a few to change the 3 indicator led's on my 1800 case.

Probably just supply and demand. Where are you buying from? Here are some for $.40/each.

[digi]

Why are 3mm purple leds so much cheaper than 1.8mm led's? I need a few to change the 3 indicator led's on my 1800 case.

Probably just supply and demand. Where are you buying from? Here are some for $.40/each.

Thanks, yea you can get x100 3mm shipped for $2.50 from Chiner..

[CPTBadAss]

What a nice topic. Thank you for your help.

+1 one of the sweetest gh threads. I got expertz on call, ready for my random newbish questions. Shouts out to Cptbadass.  )

You're welcome

Where is the best place to find conventional wisdom about optimal ergonomic angle (in terms of wrist roll) for split keyboards?
I'm sure I read a discussion on it in the Ergonomics section ages ago but I have no recollection of what the thread was actually about.

Start a thread and then talk to some people like Hoggy, Acidfire, obra, Haata, dorkvader, and jacobolus.

Anyone know of a source for Krytox keyboard lube? Or when/if Geekhackers/techkeys/MK will restock?

Krytox isn't keyboard lube per se. It's an industrial lube usually used for not keyboard applications. If you're impatient, you can try hunting other sources. I did a quick search and found some on Amazon.

Is there anyway to still buy the KMAC Mini?  I just saw it, and it looks amazing.  Reminds me of the model F/AT a little bit.  I really want this though.  I tried kbdmod.com and it gives a message which translated roughly when I click add to cart as "This item is currently in stock brief interruption due to lack of sales."

I want this bad enough to start a group buy or something but have no idea how to do it.  Obviously I know to try the classifieds, but any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Think you're best bet is the Classifieds unfortunately.

So I guess next question is do these get restocked often?

I have no idea what I'm looking at.

is a full size realforce with 45g accross the board not readily available anywhere?

I'm honestly horrible with anything Topre but have you checked EliteKeyboards and The Keyboard Co?

I know these are older post, but for reference�

Are there better springs to put into vintage Cherry MX blues while I have the switches apart or will that defeat the purpose of the "vintage" feel?

I don't want to do the jailhouse mod because I like a hard bottoming out (that's what she said).  )

I think that negates the purpose of so called vintage or worn switches. I think that the spring, stem, and housing all work together to make the switches feel the way they do.

Incorrect. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72626.0

What exactly is incorrect and what are you trying to highlight in your review? Just saying the housing affects the feel isn't good enough proof for me sadly. I'm looking for some more definitive information other than "I said so".

Could someone recommend me a good ps2-->usb adapter for my Cheat? I have a few cheap ones lying around, but I'm sure they aren't going to be powerful enough to drive the keyboard, was thinking about this but would like some feedback from others on what might work best.

I think this was already covered but I really like the ID Innovations adapters I bought from mkawa and i3oilermaker/TechKeys.

Hello. I changed a 2u backspace switch into 2 x 1u switches. Where do I "find" the extra 1u in the keymapper? What can I do?

What keymapping software are you using?

Im using BootMapper Client.

I've never heard of that client. Maybe you can try using TMK or EasyAVR? I believe both of those support 1x backspace.

Q: Does anyone know where I can find Matias part # FK-303_usb for a http://matias.ca/miniquietpro/pc/? Customer service claims they don't sell them and I banged up my micro USB connector and board.

If they don't sell them and you've already contacted them to try and get the part, I'm not sure where you're gonna get it from other than another board. I know you can get *just* the USB connector from the usual suspects (Amazon, eBay, Mouser, etc). Maybe you can try that? How exactly is it banged up? By board do you mean a daughter board or the actual keyboard?

Hello guys,

Not sure that my question should go in this threat
I need to identify a keyboard by a picture, so if anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the pic:

Holy **** that picture is awful. I honestly don't know what I'm looking at other than it's a Bull keyboard and it's got some colorful keycaps. Can you get a better picture? A quick search found these links which might be helpful:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43697.0
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54174.0

[greath]

Is there a way for me to test the brightness of the LEDs on the keyboard with the few resistors I do have soldered on? If not, is there another way I could test the brightnesses with stuff around the house (like a 9v battery)?

You don't need to solder on in order to test the led brightness with different resistors.
For long term, you can use a breadboard kit

Show Image

For short term, a small few alligators test clips would be just fine

Show Image

If you don't have any 5V power supply, it would be a small problem, however.

You can create 5V power supply from 4xAAA battery

Show Image

then use a step-down to reduce from 6V to 5V

It would be better if you have an adapter 5V output or an old PSU because you can create a DIY power supply with direct 5V.

Used and old phone charger and tested out a couple resistors. Thanks guys. Going for the 1.3k ohms :)

[hwood34]

So I guess next question is do these get restocked often?

I have no idea what I'm looking at.

Ps2 cable from an audiophile cable company

[CPTBadAss]

So I guess next question is do these get restocked often?

I have no idea what I'm looking at.

Ps2 cable from an audiophile cable company

Hm...Why not talk to your favorite custom cable maker and get something like that made? I'm sure Zeal/tjcaustin/Pexon could hook it up.

[hwood34]

So I guess next question is do these get restocked often?

I have no idea what I'm looking at.

Ps2 cable from an audiophile cable company

Hm...Why not talk to your favorite custom cable maker and get something like that made? I'm sure Zeal/tjcaustin/Pexon could hook it up.

Sorta yeah. Just like the connectors and overall look of those a little more

[Joey Quinn]

Anyone know the distance between the mods and arrow keys on a phantom pcb? Also the distance between the num row and the function row?

[Zustiur]

Does Mechanical Keyboards.com usually send a 'your product has been shipped' email? I've got the the order confirmation but nothing else.

Typically yes but in my experience sometimes they don't come through. You can email their support and they can tell you.

hmm
That's concerning. I've already emailed them. No response as yet. Will wait a bit longer.

[frosty]

do switches ever have to be re-lubed?

[quochung1989]

do switches ever have to be re-lubed?

Yes, but I think you rarely re-lubed switchs except you used it very very very long times.

[CPTBadAss]

do switches ever have to be re-lubed?

Agreed with what quochung1989 said.

Anyone know the distance between the mods and arrow keys on a phantom pcb? Also the distance between the num row and the function row?

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom#Files

Does the plate file help you or no? Maybe the DT Wiki or elsewhere has the Gerber files? I couldn't find it in a quick search.

[Joey Quinn]

do switches ever have to be re-lubed?

Agreed with what quochung1989 said.

Anyone know the distance between the mods and arrow keys on a phantom pcb? Also the distance between the num row and the function row?

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Phantom#Files

Does the plate file help you or no? Maybe the DT Wiki or elsewhere has the Gerber files? I couldn't find it in a quick search.

The plate should give me what I'm looking for, thanks. Hopefully the spacing isn't as messed up as the rest of those drawings. )

[digi]

Curious if anyone has tried these 2x3x4 purple led's? Do they actually shine purple? The picture from their auction looks blue to me:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Square-LED-Diode-Water-Clear-Purple-UV-Light-Rectangular-/381265404854?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c53063b6

[MAR82]

Curious if anyone has tried these 2x3x4 purple led's? Do they actually shine purple? The picture from their auction looks blue to me:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Square-LED-Diode-Water-Clear-Purple-UV-Light-Rectangular-/381265404854?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c53063b6

It's because they're UV purple. So it will be somewhat between blue and purple, very hard to take clear pictures of
You can see some round 3mm ones in this album http://imgur.com/a/XXDLq#0

[digi]

Curious if anyone has tried these 2x3x4 purple led's? Do they actually shine purple? The picture from their auction looks blue to me:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Square-LED-Diode-Water-Clear-Purple-UV-Light-Rectangular-/381265404854?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c53063b6

It's because they're UV purple. So it will be somewhat between blue and purple, very hard to take clear pictures of
You can see some round 3mm ones in this album http://imgur.com/a/XXDLq#0

Thanks mar82, if they shine like your pics, I'd be very happy with that purple. Think I'll pick some up.

[davkol]

I know these are older post, but for reference�

Are there better springs to put into vintage Cherry MX blues while I have the switches apart or will that defeat the purpose of the "vintage" feel?

I don't want to do the jailhouse mod because I like a hard bottoming out (that's what she said).  )

I think that negates the purpose of so called vintage or worn switches. I think that the spring, stem, and housing all work together to make the switches feel the way they do.

Incorrect. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72626.0

What exactly is incorrect and what are you trying to highlight in your review? Just saying the housing affects the feel isn't good enough proof for me sadly. I'm looking for some more definitive information other than "I said so".

The point is that "so called vintage or worn switches" makes it sound like "vintage" is just a buzzword in this context, which is incorrect. The point of my overview is to link other sources in one place. It's a fact that vintage MX Blue switches are different from the modern ones. I added only a screenshot from Audacity to show the difference in sound between old and new stems.

[Blaise170]

Yeah the UV purple usually isn't captured very well, it will look blue on all but the best of cameras. My case has a UV light strip but in pictures it just looks blue.

[CPTBadAss]

More

I know these are older post, but for reference�

Are there better springs to put into vintage Cherry MX blues while I have the switches apart or will that defeat the purpose of the "vintage" feel?

I don't want to do the jailhouse mod because I like a hard bottoming out (that's what she said).  )

I think that negates the purpose of so called vintage or worn switches. I think that the spring, stem, and housing all work together to make the switches feel the way they do.

Incorrect. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72626.0

What exactly is incorrect and what are you trying to highlight in your review? Just saying the housing affects the feel isn't good enough proof for me sadly. I'm looking for some more definitive information other than "I said so".

The point is that "so called vintage or worn switches" makes it sound like "vintage" is just a buzzword in this context, which is incorrect. The point of my overview is to link other sources in one place. It's a fact that vintage MX Blue switches are different from the modern ones. I added only a screenshot from Audacity to show the difference in sound between old and new stems.

If it's a fact, you'll have no trouble providing me links with dates and what Cherry did to change the manufacturing of the switches. I've been curious for ages to know both of these details and obviously I'm still skeptical.

[hwood34]

More

I know these are older post, but for reference�

Are there better springs to put into vintage Cherry MX blues while I have the switches apart or will that defeat the purpose of the "vintage" feel?

I don't want to do the jailhouse mod because I like a hard bottoming out (that's what she said).  )

I think that negates the purpose of so called vintage or worn switches. I think that the spring, stem, and housing all work together to make the switches feel the way they do.

Incorrect. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72626.0

What exactly is incorrect and what are you trying to highlight in your review? Just saying the housing affects the feel isn't good enough proof for me sadly. I'm looking for some more definitive information other than "I said so".

The point is that "so called vintage or worn switches" makes it sound like "vintage" is just a buzzword in this context, which is incorrect. The point of my overview is to link other sources in one place. It's a fact that vintage MX Blue switches are different from the modern ones. I added only a screenshot from Audacity to show the difference in sound between old and new stems.

If it's a fact, you'll have no trouble providing me links with dates and what Cherry did to change the manufacturing of the switches. I've been curious for ages to know both of these details and obviously I'm still skeptical.

This was the closest thing I could find, someone acknowledging that it was officially confirmed at some point. I have no idea where or what they did though.

[davkol]

More

I know these are older post, but for reference�

Are there better springs to put into vintage Cherry MX blues while I have the switches apart or will that defeat the purpose of the "vintage" feel?

I don't want to do the jailhouse mod because I like a hard bottoming out (that's what she said).  )

I think that negates the purpose of so called vintage or worn switches. I think that the spring, stem, and housing all work together to make the switches feel the way they do.

Incorrect. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72626.0

What exactly is incorrect and what are you trying to highlight in your review? Just saying the housing affects the feel isn't good enough proof for me sadly. I'm looking for some more definitive information other than "I said so".

The point is that "so called vintage or worn switches" makes it sound like "vintage" is just a buzzword in this context, which is incorrect. The point of my overview is to link other sources in one place. It's a fact that vintage MX Blue switches are different from the modern ones. I added only a screenshot from Audacity to show the difference in sound between old and new stems.

If it's a fact, you'll have no trouble providing me links with dates and what Cherry did to change the manufacturing of the switches. I've been curious for ages to know both of these details and obviously I'm still skeptical.

See links on that page, there are detailed pictures among other things.

As previously mentioned [there?], I've owned Chicony KB-5191 (old pics of one) keyboards made in 1991/1992 and sold in the same box, that had different stems.

[Blaise170]

My Chicony KB-5581 also had vintage blues. I added the photo on the DT wiki. I'll see if my camera can show a difference in stem color between a vintage and modern blue.