Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3553640 times)

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Offline Pemdas

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14500 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:29:57 »
Anybody have any experience with both linear green alps and matias linears? How do the matias linears compare to the greens?

The Matias Linears feel *much* lighter than SKCL Greens to me. The Matias linears also have a bit of a click on the downstroke which really threw me off. I much prefer SKCL Greens. The weight is a bit heavier and they're luciously smooth. Some of my favorite Alps switches period. Some more of my thoughts on the Matias Linears can be found here.

Oh man they have a click? That's kinda weird for a linear isn't it?

Thanks for the info probably won't go with the matias now that I know that  :thumb:
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Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14501 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:33:34 »
I haven't yet tried SKCL Green Alps but I will tomorrow when I fly home. If someone else hasn't answered before then, I'll let you know my experience.

I'd love to hear you opinion, the more the better :thumb:


IMO, good condition linear greens are better feeling.  They're the smoothest linear switches I've felt.

Sweet thanks for the input! I've been loving linear switches lately and have heard great things about these greens. Going to keep my eyes peeled for a green alps board.

I've only got one alps pcb and I really hate desoldering so ill probably end up getting both to test side by side in the end :/

You could always try hunting for unicorns and go for SKCL browns. :P They're quite nice; just as smooth as SKCL greens, but heavier around the weight of MX blacks (5g heavier).

The short travel of Alps makes these linear switches feel incredibly unique compared to anything MX. IMO, the smoothness is not too different from a well-tuned vintage MX black, but the short travel combined with the solidness of the complicated design make it feel very very distinctive.

The symmetrical design of the SKCL Green and SKCL Brown (and also SKCL Amber which was used as a space bar switch) slider, unlike every other Alps slider. also decreases play and wobble. They are very solid switches!

Offline nubbinator

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14502 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:35:36 »
Browns aren't unicorns.  My tactile greens are though.

Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14503 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:36:14 »
Browns aren't unicorns.  My tactile greens are though.

Linear browns (not IBM 5140 tactile browns) are unicorns.

Prove me wrong. :P

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14504 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:36:28 »
Oh man they have a click? That's kinda weird for a linear isn't it?

Thanks for the info probably won't go with the matias now that I know that  :thumb:

They're definitely not supposed to and they might smooth out but when I tested them, they definitely had a slight click. It was really ****ing weird and annoyed me to no end.

Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14505 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:38:42 »
Oh man they have a click? That's kinda weird for a linear isn't it?

Thanks for the info probably won't go with the matias now that I know that  :thumb:

They're definitely not supposed to and they might smooth out but when I tested them, they definitely had a slight click. It was really ****ing weird and annoyed me to no end.

The contact leaves, at least on SKCL switches and by the nature of the shape in general, have a very very slight tacitlity, but this is when talking about complicated Alps, so I'm not sure about this Matias issue.


Offline Blaise170

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14506 on: Sun, 24 January 2016, 17:40:21 »
Oh man they have a click? That's kinda weird for a linear isn't it?

Thanks for the info probably won't go with the matias now that I know that  :thumb:

They're definitely not supposed to and they might smooth out but when I tested them, they definitely had a slight click. It was really ****ing weird and annoyed me to no end.

I didn't have that experience in my V60 before I switched them out. Did you try them out right after release or later on?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14507 on: Mon, 25 January 2016, 06:31:45 »
Oh man they have a click? That's kinda weird for a linear isn't it?

Thanks for the info probably won't go with the matias now that I know that  :thumb:

They're definitely not supposed to and they might smooth out but when I tested them, they definitely had a slight click. It was really ****ing weird and annoyed me to no end.

I didn't have that experience in my V60 before I switched them out. Did you try them out right after release or later on?

I don't know. I tried them in a prototype V80 from KBParadise.

Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14508 on: Mon, 25 January 2016, 07:33:30 »
In regards to dye sub keys - is the set up process completely flexible/scalable or are there costs associated with new legends that make doing custom sets prohibitively expensive?

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14509 on: Mon, 25 January 2016, 10:36:00 »
They just use a stencil, don't they? Easy to make, easy to replace and easy to swap out.

Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14510 on: Mon, 25 January 2016, 18:07:03 »
They just use a stencil, don't they? Easy to make, easy to replace and easy to swap out.

That's what I thought - the thing that has got me wondering are when they start to combine colours - would it literally be a process of just doing one dye sub after the other?

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14511 on: Mon, 25 January 2016, 18:09:02 »
I assume so, but I haven't seen the process described that detailed. In fact I don't even know if they dye the caps one at a time or en masse.

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14512 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 02:43:07 »
Just for fun, I'm going to pick up a good older rubber dome off Ebay, since they're dirt cheap and I'm curious.

I've heard the Dell QuietKeys are quite good along with the IBM KB-8923's, are there any other good ones?


Offline jd29

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14513 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 03:02:53 »
Just for fun, I'm going to pick up a good older rubber dome off Ebay, since they're dirt cheap and I'm curious.

I've heard the Dell QuietKeys are quite good along with the IBM KB-8923's, are there any other good ones?

You might already know this, but make sure that Dell is an RT7D5JTW. There are a lot of old Malaysian Quietkeys on eBay that are no good.

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14514 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 03:24:28 »
Just for fun, I'm going to pick up a good older rubber dome off Ebay, since they're dirt cheap and I'm curious.

I've heard the Dell QuietKeys are quite good along with the IBM KB-8923's, are there any other good ones?

You might already know this, but make sure that Dell is an RT7D5JTW. There are a lot of old Malaysian Quietkeys on eBay that are no good.

It is, made in Thailand, from my research this is a good thing?

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14515 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 03:39:00 »
Just for fun, I'm going to pick up a good older rubber dome off Ebay, since they're dirt cheap and I'm curious.

I've heard the Dell QuietKeys are quite good along with the IBM KB-8923's, are there any other good ones?

You might already know this, but make sure that Dell is an RT7D5JTW. There are a lot of old Malaysian Quietkeys on eBay that are no good.

It is, made in Thailand, from my research this is a good thing?
yep good to go  :thumb:

Offline pr0ximity

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14516 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 14:36:05 »
My Zenith Z-150's F7 key seems to be a bit wonky. The keyboard has a toggleable feature to fire a small buzzer on each keypress. When that is turned on, pressing the F7 key will cause a beep. However, SwitchHitter and other keyboard testing software I've tried (as well as general applications) does not register the F7 key as being pressed (on both OSX and Win 7). Every other key works without issue (though OSX doesn't like its NumLock for whatever reason).

What should I start poking with my multimeter, and how?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14517 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 17:11:02 »
My Zenith Z-150's F7 key seems to be a bit wonky. The keyboard has a toggleable feature to fire a small buzzer on each keypress. When that is turned on, pressing the F7 key will cause a beep. However, SwitchHitter and other keyboard testing software I've tried (as well as general applications) does not register the F7 key as being pressed (on both OSX and Win 7). Every other key works without issue (though OSX doesn't like its NumLock for whatever reason).

What should I start poking with my multimeter, and how?

I would start by seeing if the switch has connectivity. If the switch doesn't register connectivity at all, I'd resolder the joint. If that doesn't work, I'd try swapping in another switch. I know SKCM Greens are kinda hard to find though so maybe swapping in a switch from like Scroll Lock or some rarely used switch might be ok. And then use Matias replacements until you find another SKCM Green.

Offline pr0ximity

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14518 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 21:22:50 »
My Zenith Z-150's F7 key seems to be a bit wonky. The keyboard has a toggleable feature to fire a small buzzer on each keypress. When that is turned on, pressing the F7 key will cause a beep. However, SwitchHitter and other keyboard testing software I've tried (as well as general applications) does not register the F7 key as being pressed (on both OSX and Win 7). Every other key works without issue (though OSX doesn't like its NumLock for whatever reason).

What should I start poking with my multimeter, and how?

I would start by seeing if the switch has connectivity. If the switch doesn't register connectivity at all, I'd resolder the joint. If that doesn't work, I'd try swapping in another switch. I know SKCM Greens are kinda hard to find though so maybe swapping in a switch from like Scroll Lock or some rarely used switch might be ok. And then use Matias replacements until you find another SKCM Green.

Switch is totally fine, manually bridged the connection between the two leads, same thing happens. Some portion of the board is registering the key as pressed, as it fires the beeper. I've visually inspected the components around that switch and the circuits running to/from the switch and there doesn't appear to be anything damaged or improperly soldered. I'm just stumped that it's firing the beeper but not sending the scancode.

Guess I need to examine the matrix more carefully? I have to imagine the issue lies somewhere in the circuit for the single switch, as no surrounding switches are acting abnormal, and there's no other funny behavior from the board. It's a single-layer PCB too, so I suppose it's not too difficult to see where things are routed, but I've little experience troubleshooting circuits.
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Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14519 on: Tue, 26 January 2016, 22:25:27 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.
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Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14520 on: Wed, 27 January 2016, 09:55:12 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.

Could be wrong but I'm pretty confident there hasn't been.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14521 on: Wed, 27 January 2016, 09:58:25 »
More
My Zenith Z-150's F7 key seems to be a bit wonky. The keyboard has a toggleable feature to fire a small buzzer on each keypress. When that is turned on, pressing the F7 key will cause a beep. However, SwitchHitter and other keyboard testing software I've tried (as well as general applications) does not register the F7 key as being pressed (on both OSX and Win 7). Every other key works without issue (though OSX doesn't like its NumLock for whatever reason).

What should I start poking with my multimeter, and how?

I would start by seeing if the switch has connectivity. If the switch doesn't register connectivity at all, I'd resolder the joint. If that doesn't work, I'd try swapping in another switch. I know SKCM Greens are kinda hard to find though so maybe swapping in a switch from like Scroll Lock or some rarely used switch might be ok. And then use Matias replacements until you find another SKCM Green.

Switch is totally fine, manually bridged the connection between the two leads, same thing happens. Some portion of the board is registering the key as pressed, as it fires the beeper. I've visually inspected the components around that switch and the circuits running to/from the switch and there doesn't appear to be anything damaged or improperly soldered. I'm just stumped that it's firing the beeper but not sending the scancode.

Guess I need to examine the matrix more carefully? I have to imagine the issue lies somewhere in the circuit for the single switch, as no surrounding switches are acting abnormal, and there's no other funny behavior from the board. It's a single-layer PCB too, so I suppose it's not too difficult to see where things are routed, but I've little experience troubleshooting circuits.

Have you tried swapping in a different switch just to see if it's the switch?

Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.

I thought the Galaxy Class spacebars did but I can't find a picture of it now.

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14522 on: Wed, 27 January 2016, 10:09:35 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.
I thought the Galaxy Class spacebars did but I can't find a picture of it now.
Only did black or purple

Offline UsualSuspectXXX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14523 on: Wed, 27 January 2016, 20:15:34 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.

To my knowledge, other than the likes of Ducky and similar, the only custom spacebars were done by JTK in the sophomore GB.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14524 on: Wed, 27 January 2016, 20:44:32 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.

To my knowledge, other than the likes of Ducky and similar, the only custom spacebars were done by JTK in the sophomore GB.

Yeah, I got in touch with Melissa at SP.  She told me that they are not able to dye sub space bars due to tooling and the shape, they also do not have tooling for dye subbing the skirts on any cap.

I did ask what the issue with the tooling is regarding space bars, if it was just a work holding/fixtureing issue or if it would require a different machine.
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Offline FLFisherman

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14525 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:39:33 »
Where can I buy 2u Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers? I know Zeal has some in his store, but I only need two of them and $25 ($10 + $15 shipping) is a little more than I want to spend. The two stores listed in the FAQ also don't have them (from what I could see).

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14526 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:49:19 »
7bit on DT, but he has shipping lag...

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14527 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:49:25 »
Where can I buy 2u Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers? I know Zeal has some in his store, but I only need two of them and $25 ($10 + $15 shipping) is a little more than I want to spend. The two stores listed in the FAQ also don't have them (from what I could see).

Does MK.com have them? Cherry Stabilizers have always been a bit tricky to source. I'm always unsure where to grab more.
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:51:28 by CPTBadAss »

Offline nickheller

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14528 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:53:56 »
Where can I buy 2u Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers? I know Zeal has some in his store, but I only need two of them and $25 ($10 + $15 shipping) is a little more than I want to spend. The two stores listed in the FAQ also don't have them (from what I could see).
I have seen pcb mount stab parts on ebay, maybe check there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-2x-PCB-Mount-Mechanical-Keyboard-Cap-Stabilizers-for-cherry-MX-switch-DIY-/281901857406?hash=item41a2a8fa7e:g:Zb8AAOSwKtlWjAhg


More
I know this is not what you are asking, but if you find nothing else, I have some old g80's with pcb mount stabs, and would not mind pulling 2 and sending them to you.


Offline FLFisherman

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14529 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 07:56:46 »
Where can I buy 2u Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers? I know Zeal has some in his store, but I only need two of them and $25 ($10 + $15 shipping) is a little more than I want to spend. The two stores listed in the FAQ also don't have them (from what I could see).

Does MK.com have them? Cherry Stabilizers have always been a bit tricky to source. I'm always unsure where to grab more.

Unfortunately not. Close though!

Where can I buy 2u Cherry PCB-mounted stabilizers? I know Zeal has some in his store, but I only need two of them and $25 ($10 + $15 shipping) is a little more than I want to spend. The two stores listed in the FAQ also don't have them (from what I could see).
I have seen pcb mount stab parts on ebay, maybe check there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Set-2x-PCB-Mount-Mechanical-Keyboard-Cap-Stabilizers-for-cherry-MX-switch-DIY-/281901857406?hash=item41a2a8fa7e:g:Zb8AAOSwKtlWjAhg


More
I know this is not what you are asking, but if you find nothing else, I have some old g80's with pcb mount stabs, and would not mind pulling 2 and sending them to you.



I should have checked eBay. Thanks so much! Just double-checking to make sure they're the right size (hard to tell).

Ehhhhh. Just saw shipping isn't until end of February or early March. :/

« Last Edit: Thu, 28 January 2016, 08:01:59 by FLFisherman »

Offline Vittra

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14530 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 08:05:51 »
Cheapest/simplest path to a keyboard DIY kit still the Phantom? Or should I look elsewhere?
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14531 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 08:18:27 »
So, not sure if I am in the right place, but I noticed a "spot" on my gon hhkb, and I can not get it off lol. Anyone have any suggestions?






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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14532 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:04:06 »
Cheapest/simplest path to a keyboard DIY kit still the Phantom? Or should I look elsewhere?
Yep the phantom is the cheapest way to DIY but still expensive if you buy an alu case

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14533 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:25:47 »
Has there been any PBT DSA sets with a dye subbed legend on the space bar?  Of course I am referring to SP.

To my knowledge, other than the likes of Ducky and similar, the only custom spacebars were done by JTK in the sophomore GB.

Yeah, I got in touch with Melissa at SP.  She told me that they are not able to dye sub space bars due to tooling and the shape, they also do not have tooling for dye subbing the skirts on any cap.

I did ask what the issue with the tooling is regarding space bars, if it was just a work holding/fixtureing issue or if it would require a different machine.

Just wanted to follow up on this.  Melissa got back with me on this and said that she talked with production and they don't do it because there is to much risk of warping them even farther.
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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14534 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:26:18 »

I noticed a "spot" on my gon hhkb, and I can not get it off lol. Anyone have any suggestions?


I have seen that kind of thing in a lot of places. Unfortunately, I think it is probably a density or texture artifact from the molding process and is intrinsic.
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Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14535 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:33:32 »
Yeah, plastics is surprisingly difficult...

Offline FLFisherman

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14536 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:34:46 »
7bit on DT, but he has shipping lag...

Yeah, it's hard to find these things. Didn't realize they were so hard to get. :/

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14537 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:37:07 »

I noticed a "spot" on my gon hhkb, and I can not get it off lol. Anyone have any suggestions?


I have seen that kind of thing in a lot of places. Unfortunately, I think it is probably a density or texture artifact from the molding process and is intrinsic.

I  guessing aluminum and anodized.  If this is the case it could be something as simple as someone touching the plate without gloves at the wrong point in he process.

Question of my own.  Is there a deposit anywhere that lists key sizes and rows for standard alternative layouts such as Planck/atomic, jd40, jd45, ergo dox?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14538 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:45:42 »
Question of my own.  Is there a deposit anywhere that lists key sizes and rows for standard alternative layouts such as Planck/atomic, jd40, jd45, ergo dox?

Not that I'm aware of

Offline nickheller

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14539 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:55:27 »

I noticed a "spot" on my gon hhkb, and I can not get it off lol. Anyone have any suggestions?


I have seen that kind of thing in a lot of places. Unfortunately, I think it is probably a density or texture artifact from the molding process and is intrinsic.


I noticed a "spot" on my gon hhkb, and I can not get it off lol. Anyone have any suggestions?


I have seen that kind of thing in a lot of places. Unfortunately, I think it is probably a density or texture artifact from the molding process and is intrinsic.

I  guessing aluminum and anodized.  If this is the case it could be something as simple as someone touching the plate without gloves at the wrong point in he process.

Question of my own.  Is there a deposit anywhere that lists key sizes and rows for standard alternative layouts such as Planck/atomic, jd40, jd45, ergo dox?

Not really what I was hoping for , thanks for the responses  :(. It is not that bad, but less than ideal.

And yes, it is anodized aluminum. 
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:59:24 by nickheller »

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14540 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 09:56:41 »
I  guessing aluminum and anodized.

My F-107 case (some sort of "pot metal") completely clean and raw immediately after a moderately aggressive shot blasting shows dark spots on either side and what looks like spalling along the front bottom bar, but actually all these marks are flat and smooth and cannot be felt with the fingertip.

I think that these are variations in density introduced when the metal was cast.
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Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14541 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 10:03:32 »
Question of my own.  Is there a deposit anywhere that lists key sizes and rows for standard alternative layouts such as Planck/atomic, jd40, jd45, ergo dox?

Not that I'm aware of




Here is the JD45 keycap size reference. It can also use 6.00u and 6.25u spacebars.

The new revision JD40 PCB will support the same sizes and layouts, just with one less column.
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


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Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14542 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:38:31 »
I  guessing aluminum and anodized.

My F-107 case (some sort of "pot metal") completely clean and raw immediately after a moderately aggressive shot blasting shows dark spots on either side and what looks like spalling along the front bottom bar, but actually all these marks are flat and smooth and cannot be felt with the fingertip.

I think that these are variations in density introduced when the metal was cast.

In pictures at least, it lends itself to a sort of classy marbled look; I like it.

Though it might look far different to the eye in person.

Offline jd29

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14543 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:40:16 »
If I got some random PBT keycaps and practiced dying them, could I expect HHKB caps to behave roughly the same? Or would the plastic probably be formulated differently enough between manufacturers that I'd get very different results...

Offline FLFisherman

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14544 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:44:41 »
If I got some random PBT keycaps and practiced dying them, could I expect HHKB caps to behave roughly the same? Or would the plastic probably be formulated differently enough between manufacturers that I'd get very different results...

I see no reason why they wouldn't. You may get better or worse absorption into the plastic, but I don't think it'd be too significant. You could always test just one cap at a time before you ruin a batch.

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14545 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:51:49 »

In pictures at least, it lends itself to a sort of classy marbled look; I like it.

Though it might look far different to the eye in person.

The back looked great in that way, but the flaws on the front that I mentioned are obvious and just look ugly rather than cool.
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:53:43 by fohat.digs »
Citizens United violates the essence of what made America a great country in its political system. Now it’s just an oligarchy, with unlimited political bribery being the essence of getting the nominations for president or to elect the president.
So now we’ve just seen a complete subversion of our political system as a payoff to major contributors, who want and expect and sometimes get favors for themselves after the election’s over.”
- Jimmy Carter 2015

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14546 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 11:57:26 »
If I got some random PBT keycaps and practiced dying them, could I expect HHKB caps to behave roughly the same? Or would the plastic probably be formulated differently enough between manufacturers that I'd get very different results...

I see no reason why they wouldn't. You may get better or worse absorption into the plastic, but I don't think it'd be too significant. You could always test just one cap at a time before you ruin a batch.

I think FLFisherman's got the right idea.

Offline nubbinator

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14547 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 12:20:39 »
If I got some random PBT keycaps and practiced dying them, could I expect HHKB caps to behave roughly the same? Or would the plastic probably be formulated differently enough between manufacturers that I'd get very different results...

I see no reason why they wouldn't. You may get better or worse absorption into the plastic, but I don't think it'd be too significant. You could always test just one cap at a time before you ruin a batch.

I think FLFisherman's got the right idea.

Just remember that the HHKB spacebar is ABS.  It is dyeable with iDye Poly, but you have to have a really low temp.

Offline jd29

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14548 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 12:25:49 »
Thanks. I only wanted to do a couple of the caps, but replacement sets are expensive, so I really wouldn't want to mess one up. I'll probably just not mess with them at all.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14549 on: Thu, 28 January 2016, 12:28:22 »
I  guessing aluminum and anodized.

My F-107 case (some sort of "pot metal") completely clean and raw immediately after a moderately aggressive shot blasting shows dark spots on either side and what looks like spalling along the front bottom bar, but actually all these marks are flat and smooth and cannot be felt with the fingertip.

I think that these are variations in density introduced when the metal was cast.

Part of the reason for the obvious flaws in the cast and not in the gon plates is partly due to the alloy and the shaping process.  I would almost put money on gons plates being 6061 T6.  It is a cheap very readily available grade that machines easily.

During the forming process, they melt all the stuff to get the alloy to the secret sauce mix for that grade and just open a door on the bottom.  While going through a series of rollers, dies, and cooling chambers, they form the slab of aluminum.  This can be done continuously until they shut the machine off.  Then once it gets down to a certain temp, they shove it through the final forming die with multiple tons of force.  This process aligns the crystalline structure and gives it a grain.  This also has the added benefit of drastically improving the surface finish. 

The the cases of the 4704 series, almost zero though went into the grade because realistically I'd doesn't matter for the intended purpose.  It just has to get hot enough, and stay hot enough to pour into a mold.  Couple this with uneven mixing, and you are going to have surface appearance issues.
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