[GB] ComPact SQ - 1800 Inspired [COMPLETE]

[Steezus]

More

Does anyone know if there is any way to make it so that the macros are slower?
At my job we use Lotus Notes as our email application, and I was going to set up macro's to pre-fill certain information in emails I send out (different macro for each formality)

Currently I have this macro set up
MACRO REC
[C|m|C}            [S|h|S}ello ,



[S|t|S}hanks,
[S|d|S}avis[up][up][up]
DONE

What this does is that it creates a new email tabs into the body (4 tabs) then types that message, however it's too fast for the application, sometimes it types the message in the BCC field, other times it types it in the subject field, and sometimes it works as intended, the only thing I can think that would cause this is the fact that it's pressing tab too fast for lotus notes to keep up.

Let me keep that for next FW releae...

Also MX-Lock and in-switch LED brightness control please! Much thanks.

In-switch LED is controlled by the resistors :X. Not sure about Mx-lock but I think that as well

It's a pain swapping resistors every time you change LEDs, especially since I used sip sockets.

wait. so when using sip socket every time changing led the resistor break? and you should swap it??

No, not at all. It's just that different LED colors have different voltage range, therefore the same resistance will make the LED dimmer for some colors but brighter for other ones.

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

[gadzkun]

More

Does anyone know if there is any way to make it so that the macros are slower?
At my job we use Lotus Notes as our email application, and I was going to set up macro's to pre-fill certain information in emails I send out (different macro for each formality)

Currently I have this macro set up
MACRO REC
[C|m|C}            [S|h|S}ello ,



[S|t|S}hanks,
[S|d|S}avis[up][up][up]
DONE

What this does is that it creates a new email tabs into the body (4 tabs) then types that message, however it's too fast for the application, sometimes it types the message in the BCC field, other times it types it in the subject field, and sometimes it works as intended, the only thing I can think that would cause this is the fact that it's pressing tab too fast for lotus notes to keep up.

Let me keep that for next FW releae...

Also MX-Lock and in-switch LED brightness control please! Much thanks.

In-switch LED is controlled by the resistors :X. Not sure about Mx-lock but I think that as well

It's a pain swapping resistors every time you change LEDs, especially since I used sip sockets.

wait. so when using sip socket every time changing led the resistor break? and you should swap it??

No, not at all. It's just that different LED colors have different voltage range, therefore the same resistance will make the LED dimmer for some colors but brighter for other ones.

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

owh ic ic.. im still doing lubing and sip socketing my switch now.
so when i heard about that im a bit shocked.  )
its my first time build a custom board, im really enjoying open a switch one by one.
its really make my day.

[fliptrik]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

Well ****. I just double checked and it looks like I may be missing something haha.



The board went from bubble wrap to workbench without moving. I don't think this is chilling around on my floor anywhere.

[Steezus]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

Well ****. I just double checked and it looks like I may be missing something haha.

Show Image

The board went from bubble wrap to workbench without moving. I don't think this is chilling around on my floor anywhere.

Yup, you're just missing a diode. Luckily that's an easy fix. I'm not sure what the diodes that board uses but LL4148 diodes should work just fine. Just make sure you have the polarity the same as the others. The little black part inside the square indicates where you should have the polarity. :thumb:

[fliptrik]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

Well ****. I just double checked and it looks like I may be missing something haha.

Show Image

The board went from bubble wrap to workbench without moving. I don't think this is chilling around on my floor anywhere.

Yup, you're just missing a diode. Luckily that's an easy fix. I'm not sure what the diodes that board uses but LL4148 diodes should work just fine. Just make sure you have the polarity the same as the others. The little black part inside the square indicates where you should have the polarity. :thumb:

Dope. I'll have to track down one online and purchase it. Thanks for the help!

[Steezus]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

Well ****. I just double checked and it looks like I may be missing something haha.

Show Image

The board went from bubble wrap to workbench without moving. I don't think this is chilling around on my floor anywhere.

Yup, you're just missing a diode. Luckily that's an easy fix. I'm not sure what the diodes that board uses but LL4148 diodes should work just fine. Just make sure you have the polarity the same as the others. The little black part inside the square indicates where you should have the polarity. :thumb:

Dope. I'll have to track down one online and purchase it. Thanks for the help!

No problem, the best part is that they're cheap. Here's a link that I used on eBay that arrived relatively quick, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vishey-LL4148-SMD-SOD-80-Diodes-200-pcs-/301791912110?

Edit: Just noticed that they ship right where you're at so they should arrive super fast. :thumb:

[fliptrik]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Can you take of picture of the PCB where the arrow key is located, may have a problem with the diode.

Well ****. I just double checked and it looks like I may be missing something haha.

Show Image

The board went from bubble wrap to workbench without moving. I don't think this is chilling around on my floor anywhere.

Yup, you're just missing a diode. Luckily that's an easy fix. I'm not sure what the diodes that board uses but LL4148 diodes should work just fine. Just make sure you have the polarity the same as the others. The little black part inside the square indicates where you should have the polarity. :thumb:

Dope. I'll have to track down one online and purchase it. Thanks for the help!

No problem, the best part is that they're cheap. Here's a link that I used on eBay that arrived relatively quick, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vishey-LL4148-SMD-SOD-80-Diodes-200-pcs-/301791912110?

Edit: Just noticed that they ship right where you're at so they should arrive super fast. :thumb:

Oh very slick! Thanks for pretty much doing all the work for me! haha

[building_an_ergo]

Can anyone tell me what size key the right shfit is?

[HekusuTekusu]

Can anyone tell me what size key the right shfit is?

Pretty sure it's 1.75u

[kiwi99]

Can anyone tell me what size key the right shfit is?

Pretty sure it's 1.75u

Confirming this

[building_an_ergo]

Can anyone tell me what size key the right shfit is?

Pretty sure it's 1.75u

Confirming this

Well, until the Adapter kit for Deep Space gets restocked, this is what I am stuck with.



Frustrating to be so close, yet to far.

[daviswalkers]

Came to work today and the keyboard RGB LEDs were doing the snake mode, even though I have it set to mode 6 (solid) went to type on it and it's not working at all, none of the keys are doing anything and its just RGB Snaking (which I believe was the default mode) I've tried unplugging and plugging it back in to different USB ports and nothing seems to do anything different. When I connect it using JigOn it has all of my previous settings defaulted however updating all does nothing.

Edit:
When I plug it in I get a windows error message saying something along the lines of "unrecognized USB device"


Edit 2: Tried plugging it into a couple co-worker's computers and it's doing the same thing for all of them too. It worked last night when I left work and nothing has changed, yet now it seems like the keyboard is the issue...

[kiwi99]

Came to work today and the keyboard RGB LEDs were doing the snake mode, even though I have it set to mode 6 (solid) went to type on it and it's not working at all, none of the keys are doing anything and its just RGB Snaking (which I believe was the default mode) I've tried unplugging and plugging it back in to different USB ports and nothing seems to do anything different. When I connect it using JigOn it has all of my previous settings defaulted however updating all does nothing.

Edit:
When I plug it in I get a windows error message saying something along the lines of "unrecognized USB device"

Show Image

Edit 2: Tried plugging it into a couple co-worker's computers and it's doing the same thing for all of them too. It worked last night when I left work and nothing has changed, yet now it seems like the keyboard is the issue...

Just wondering, what version of windows is it on?

[Rodgaroon]

Came to work today and the keyboard RGB LEDs were doing the snake mode, even though I have it set to mode 6 (solid) went to type on it and it's not working at all, none of the keys are doing anything and its just RGB Snaking (which I believe was the default mode) I've tried unplugging and plugging it back in to different USB ports and nothing seems to do anything different. When I connect it using JigOn it has all of my previous settings defaulted however updating all does nothing.

Edit:
When I plug it in I get a windows error message saying something along the lines of "unrecognized USB device"

Show Image

Edit 2: Tried plugging it into a couple co-worker's computers and it's doing the same thing for all of them too. It worked last night when I left work and nothing has changed, yet now it seems like the keyboard is the issue...

Just wondering, what version of windows is it on?

I believe windows 10 is a no go for the software / firmware. Don't quote me on it.

[building_an_ergo]

Came to work today and the keyboard RGB LEDs were doing the snake mode, even though I have it set to mode 6 (solid) went to type on it and it's not working at all, none of the keys are doing anything and its just RGB Snaking (which I believe was the default mode) I've tried unplugging and plugging it back in to different USB ports and nothing seems to do anything different. When I connect it using JigOn it has all of my previous settings defaulted however updating all does nothing.

Edit:
When I plug it in I get a windows error message saying something along the lines of "unrecognized USB device"

Show Image

Edit 2: Tried plugging it into a couple co-worker's computers and it's doing the same thing for all of them too. It worked last night when I left work and nothing has changed, yet now it seems like the keyboard is the issue...

Just wondering, what version of windows is it on?

I believe windows 10 is a no go for the software / firmware. Don't quote me on it.

Windows 10 works perfectly fine for me.

[Glissant]

This will probably not be of much help, but my keyboard was programming fine under Windows 10, but suddenly the software isn't finding the keyboard anymore. I'll look into what the issue might be and update once I figure it out, but it might be a while since I'm lazy.

[building_an_ergo]

This will probably not be of much help, but my keyboard was programming fine under Windows 10, but it suddenly the software isn't finding the keyboard anymore. I'll look into what the issue might be and update once I figure it out, but it might be a while since I'm lazy.

One weird thing I have found is that it only applies RGB LED settings on first run.  If I wanna change it again, I have to open and close JigOn.

[Rodgaroon]

There were windows updates last night and 2 people have the same issue, hummmm. Damn you Bill Gates!

[Dee1]

Windows 10 here and I was able to program my keyboard perfectly last night.

[axtran]

So I finally got the board and got it all soldered up. Everything works great except for the Up arrow. At first I thought it was a switch issue so I desoldered and soldered a new switch on but it still doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try and fix it? Or is all hope lost?

Desolder the diode and test it. It may be faulty.

[daviswalkers]

To answer everyone above, the firmware and everything worked 100% on my windows 10 PC at home (haven't tried since it stopped working at work, I'm bringing it home tonight to see if it works at home, if it does I'll just bring me TX1800 back to work I guess (my HHKB doesn't work here either and yet it works fine at home. So it may be some stupid security thing.) Since my last post I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers and restarting while unplugged/plugged in, and it just doesn't recognize it as a keyboard and instead is a "unrecognized USB device"

[daviswalkers]

Alright, at home now and it's doing the exact same thing, when  I plug it in the RGB LEDs just do the Snake (Mode 1 I believe) and none of the keys do anything. It says "Unrecognized USB Device" and JigOn does nothing as well.

I have tested the keyboard on 2 different laptops, 2 different towers, and 2 different versions of Windows (7&10) is there anything I should look for to see what's going on or am I just out of luck and out of a keyboard? Any aditional information I can provide to help troubleshoot? I really love this keyboard and really really hope I'm not **** out of luck here

[axtran]

Alright, at home now and it's doing the exact same thing, when  I plug it in the RGB LEDs just do the Snake (Mode 1 I believe) and none of the keys do anything. It says "Unrecognized USB Device" and JigOn does nothing as well.

I have tested the keyboard on 2 different laptops, 2 different towers, and 2 different versions of Windows (7&10) is there anything I should look for to see what's going on or am I just out of luck and out of a keyboard? Any aditional information I can provide to help troubleshoot? I really love this keyboard and really really hope I'm not **** out of luck here

The board could be trying to boot in some random mode. My experience is around the FaceW... however there might be some key that gets your keyboard to "force itself" into USB mode. Try holding U as you plug it in or something like that? It could also be in bootloader mode of some kind...

[daviswalkers]

Alright, at home now and it's doing the exact same thing, when  I plug it in the RGB LEDs just do the Snake (Mode 1 I believe) and none of the keys do anything. It says "Unrecognized USB Device" and JigOn does nothing as well.

I have tested the keyboard on 2 different laptops, 2 different towers, and 2 different versions of Windows (7&10) is there anything I should look for to see what's going on or am I just out of luck and out of a keyboard? Any aditional information I can provide to help troubleshoot? I really love this keyboard and really really hope I'm not **** out of luck here

The board could be trying to boot in some random mode. My experience is around the FaceW... however there might be some key that gets your keyboard to "force itself" into USB mode. Try holding U as you plug it in or something like that? It could also be in bootloader mode of some kind...

Guess I left that out by accident, I've tried a few combinations of this based off of my google results, I know I tried Esc, Q, and U, and I believe I tried something else but cant remember, maybe Fn, or F1 or something, and none of that did anything either ;(

Edit:
The only thing I could think of that I haven't tried is flashing it, however based off of a post I found on DT that broke someones Leeku 1800 PCB to the point that they needed to add multiple pins and things I didn't understand to the PCB to get it to work again.

[kiwi99]

If anyone got spare RGB LEDs land aren't using planning on using them I could really use 1-2 to get my board fully functioning instead of buying a pack online with way more than I need !

[axtran]

Alright, at home now and it's doing the exact same thing, when  I plug it in the RGB LEDs just do the Snake (Mode 1 I believe) and none of the keys do anything. It says "Unrecognized USB Device" and JigOn does nothing as well.

I have tested the keyboard on 2 different laptops, 2 different towers, and 2 different versions of Windows (7&10) is there anything I should look for to see what's going on or am I just out of luck and out of a keyboard? Any aditional information I can provide to help troubleshoot? I really love this keyboard and really really hope I'm not **** out of luck here

The board could be trying to boot in some random mode. My experience is around the FaceW... however there might be some key that gets your keyboard to "force itself" into USB mode. Try holding U as you plug it in or something like that? It could also be in bootloader mode of some kind...

Guess I left that out by accident, I've tried a few combinations of this based off of my google results, I know I tried Esc, Q, and U, and I believe I tried something else but cant remember, maybe Fn, or F1 or something, and none of that did anything either ;(

Edit:
The only thing I could think of that I haven't tried is flashing it, however based off of a post I found on DT that broke someones Leeku 1800 PCB to the point that they needed to add multiple pins and things I didn't understand to the PCB to get it to work again.

Ahh--good call. leeku is pretty responsive and awesome, maybe he can help you out when it's day again in S. Korea

[daviswalkers]

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

[meiosis]

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

[gadzkun]

at last i finished my 1st custom board..



any jigon guide how to setup the board step by step?

[Jokrik]

at last i finished my 1st custom board..

Show Image

any jigon guide how to setup the board step by step?

Very nice!

I think it's this one

http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787

[gadzkun]

at last i finished my 1st custom board..

Show Image

any jigon guide how to setup the board step by step?

Very nice!

I think it's this one

http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_sw&document_srl=2702787

haha ty bro :cool:
i want check the switch first.. hope none of em had chattering..

and now im realize custom board is not include the USB,,  :))

[Glissant]

This will probably not be of much help, but my keyboard was programming fine under Windows 10, but suddenly the software isn't finding the keyboard anymore. I'll look into what the issue might be and update once I figure it out, but it might be a while since I'm lazy.

I have fixed my issue by switching to a different USB port. *shrug*

[daviswalkers]

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

I appreciate the offer and would love to take you up on it however another top doesn't do me much good if the PCB is shot sadly, can't really justify buying parts for a keyboard that doesn't work after one day of use.

[gadzkun]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

[building_an_ergo]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

On my computer, you have to restart JigOn everytime you apply settings.

Type 6 is the solid one btw.  Close jigon, open, connect to board, change to six, hit apply.

[alienman82]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

I see you modded the plate.  Was it hard? Or just a few snips?  I still haven't decided what to build mine with.

[Kempher]

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

I appreciate the offer and would love to take you up on it however another top doesn't do me much good if the PCB is shot sadly, can't really justify buying parts for a keyboard that doesn't work after one day of use.

I already got word from Leeku that there are no more Alu tops as I am looking to get one. I could possibly let my clear acrylic top go since I got both colors.

[daviswalkers]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

I see you modded the plate.  Was it hard? Or just a few snips?  I still haven't decided what to build mine with.

If you're referring to the +/- numpad keys I did the same thing and it was actually really easy I couldn't snip with the crappy sissors I have so I actually just bent the two tiny parts that stuck out and they snapped right off and I was able to set it up like his (probably not the right/best way to do this but it worked fine for me)

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

I appreciate the offer and would love to take you up on it however another top doesn't do me much good if the PCB is shot sadly, can't really justify buying parts for a keyboard that doesn't work after one day of use.

I already got word from Leeku that there are no more Alu tops as I am looking to get one. I could possibly let my clear acrylic top go since I got both colors.

Sad to hear it, thanks for the offer, I'll be sure to keep you in mind if I ever get the PCB working again :cry:

[breitling]

Does anyone know how do you install the frosted acrylic parts of the duck feet? They just fall out of mine so I am assuming I need to stick some double sided tape or something? There were 4 pan-head screws included in the feet package in addition to the countersunk ones for the aluminum feet that I thought might be used to attach the acrylic but I don't see anywhere to use them.

There should be the screw hole at the side of bottom plate like ( :====: ) Dose not yours have it?

Hi Leeku,
I don't see anywhere where the acrylic duck feet inserts could be screwed in.. the only hole there is the one for the RGB LED to shine from the PCB onto the duck feet. I don't see any way for the acrylic insert to be attached.

[kiwi99]

Does anyone know how do you install the frosted acrylic parts of the duck feet? They just fall out of mine so I am assuming I need to stick some double sided tape or something? There were 4 pan-head screws included in the feet package in addition to the countersunk ones for the aluminum feet that I thought might be used to attach the acrylic but I don't see anywhere to use them.

There should be the screw hole at the side of bottom plate like ( :====: ) Dose not yours have it?

Hi Leeku,
I don't see anywhere where the acrylic duck feet inserts could be screwed in.. the only hole there is the one for the RGB LED to shine from the PCB onto the duck feet. I don't see any way for the acrylic insert to be attached.

I've seen posts before about how the acrylic inserts can be held in with like 2 sided tape and don't screw into anything if that is the part you're referring to

[meiosis]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

I see you modded the plate.  Was it hard? Or just a few snips?  I still haven't decided what to build mine with.

If you're referring to the +/- numpad keys I did the same thing and it was actually really easy I couldn't snip with the crappy sissors I have so I actually just bent the two tiny parts that stuck out and they snapped right off and I was able to set it up like his (probably not the right/best way to do this but it worked fine for me)

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

I appreciate the offer and would love to take you up on it however another top doesn't do me much good if the PCB is shot sadly, can't really justify buying parts for a keyboard that doesn't work after one day of use.

I already got word from Leeku that there are no more Alu tops as I am looking to get one. I could possibly let my clear acrylic top go since I got both colors.

Sad to hear it, thanks for the offer, I'll be sure to keep you in mind if I ever get the PCB working again :cry:

While it does not solve your problem completely he does have over 100 pcbs remaining for a run in the near future (not sure if I'm supposed to give more hints)

Your problem seems to be isolated :/ I've yet to have a problem with mine and I'm using Windows 10 64bit for everything, do you think it's hardware or firmware?

[daviswalkers]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

I see you modded the plate.  Was it hard? Or just a few snips?  I still haven't decided what to build mine with.

If you're referring to the +/- numpad keys I did the same thing and it was actually really easy I couldn't snip with the crappy sissors I have so I actually just bent the two tiny parts that stuck out and they snapped right off and I was able to set it up like his (probably not the right/best way to do this but it worked fine for me)

Also word of advice for anyone with an acrylic top and screws don't even remotely tighten them if you ever want to take the top off again I can't even take it off to see if I can fix it....

Edit:
Welp today has been a great day for keyboards and me -_-, first come to work and my new keyboard that I'm super in love with is broken, spend most of my work day trying to fix it to no avail, bring it home hoping its just a weird issue at work, same thing at home, decide to check and see if there's anything visibly wrong with my soldering, unable to remove acrylic screws, try using rubberband trick I saw on reddit to remove stripped screws, screwdriver slips and cracks top housing in two... well at least now I can get it off, finally get everything removed, everything looks perfectly fine, realize my sip sockets came in the mail, shortly after realize that they don't work in Zealio's switches because the slot for the LED wires is too thin and the sip socket top wont go in far enough to stick through the pcb.  If you read all the way through this mess of a post hopefully my misfortunes can benefit you in someway.

Also I emailed you leeku about buying an aluminum top plate (before my acrylic one shattered) but now I really need one so if you could get back to me on if there are any available and if you know of any fix to the issue my board is having it would be really appreciated I just want to use this beauty of a keyboard

I will most likely be taking care of replacements, Leeku's a bit busy closing up this GB and another one, he will get back to you when he can.. I might have an acrylic top available if I take over someones alu-skin, so that can be an option . Sounds like some bad luck.. but I also noticed that you had to be very careful with the plastic screws as they stripped easily if screwed in too tight

I appreciate the offer and would love to take you up on it however another top doesn't do me much good if the PCB is shot sadly, can't really justify buying parts for a keyboard that doesn't work after one day of use.

I already got word from Leeku that there are no more Alu tops as I am looking to get one. I could possibly let my clear acrylic top go since I got both colors.

Sad to hear it, thanks for the offer, I'll be sure to keep you in mind if I ever get the PCB working again :cry:

While it does not solve your problem completely he does have over 100 pcbs remaining for a run in the near future (not sure if I'm supposed to give more hints)

Your problem seems to be isolated :/ I've yet to have a problem with mine and I'm using Windows 10 64bit for everything, do you think it's hardware or firmware?

Wish I knew, I'm not really skilled at this whole thing, I've built 3 custom keyboards but that's only because I feel like if you can use a hot glue gun you can use a soldering iron. I've never had any issues similar to this so I don't have a clue where to start, only thing I can think of trying is desoldering every single switch and resoldering them and hoping for the best but I can't figure out how that would do anything since all it did from when it worked to when it didn't was sit on my empty desk at work all night :/ and my TX 1800 (using a leeku PCB and and JigOn) has done the same thing at the same desk for about 2-3 months now without any issues I'm willing to try any suggestions.

[gadzkun]

how to change rgb mode i want to change it to solid, i try every rgb effect but still always breathing mode

I see you modded the plate.  Was it hard? Or just a few snips?  I still haven't decided what to build mine with.

its really easy im using nail clipper to clip the plate...
and use a soft sandpaper to smooth the surface of a plate..

[fliptrik]

So I seem to have run into an issue with the bottom LEDs. When I first plugged in the PCB, they all turned on. I remember looking at them all.. I think. Sometime between that point and finishing the keyboard, 9 of them no longer work. They don't flash on when the keyboard is first plugged in and there's no way for me to turn them on for some reason. Is there anything I can check to see if I jacked something up during the soldering? All of the LEDs seem secure and look to be soldered the same as the ones that do work. If it matters, the only extra LEDs I soldered in where the three indicator ones. I'm unsure if those would affect anything, though.

[building_an_ergo]

Wish I knew, I'm not really skilled at this whole thing, I've built 3 custom keyboards but that's only because I feel like if you can use a hot glue gun you can use a soldering iron. I've never had any issues similar to this so I don't have a clue where to start, only thing I can think of trying is desoldering every single switch and resoldering them and hoping for the best but I can't figure out how that would do anything since all it did from when it worked to when it didn't was sit on my empty desk at work all night :/ and my TX 1800 (using a leeku PCB and and JigOn) has done the same thing at the same desk for about 2-3 months now without any issues I'm willing to try any suggestions.

I wonder if maybe the USB port or something came lose?  Did you check the PCB to make sure nothing got damaged?

When I first built my ergodox I spent hours trying to figure out why the left hand didn't work only to find out I didn't finish soldering the TRRS port down.

[suicidal_orange]

Wish I knew, I'm not really skilled at this whole thing, I've built 3 custom keyboards but that's only because I feel like if you can use a hot glue gun you can use a soldering iron. I've never had any issues similar to this so I don't have a clue where to start, only thing I can think of trying is desoldering every single switch and resoldering them and hoping for the best but I can't figure out how that would do anything since all it did from when it worked to when it didn't was sit on my empty desk at work all night :/ and my TX 1800 (using a leeku PCB and and JigOn) has done the same thing at the same desk for about 2-3 months now without any issues I'm willing to try any suggestions.

I wonder if maybe the USB port or something came lose?  Did you check the PCB to make sure nothing got damaged?

When I first built my ergodox I spent hours trying to figure out why the left hand didn't work only to find out I didn't finish soldering the TRRS port down.

If it's registering as an "unknown device" that means the power and data pins are all connected - the USB connection is good.  It won't be a problem in the switch matrix either so please don't waste your time desoldering

That the controller is alive enough to run the LEDs as chasing is surely a good sign - have you tried something slightly stupid like pressing all the switches while you switch a computer on?  Who knows, maybe one of them will fix it.

[Glissant]

This will probably not be of much help, but my keyboard was programming fine under Windows 10, but suddenly the software isn't finding the keyboard anymore. I'll look into what the issue might be and update once I figure it out, but it might be a while since I'm lazy.

I have fixed my issue by switching to a different USB port. *shrug*

And now with the different USB port I don't have to restart JigOn at all. Just start the program, and everything is flashed without issue. Windows 10 is great?

[daviswalkers]

-snip-

I wonder if maybe the USB port or something came lose?  Did you check the PCB to make sure nothing got damaged?

When I first built my ergodox I spent hours trying to figure out why the left hand didn't work only to find out I didn't finish soldering the TRRS port down.

If it's registering as an "unknown device" that means the power and data pins are all connected - the USB connection is good.  It won't be a problem in the switch matrix either so please don't waste your time desoldering

That the controller is alive enough to run the LEDs as chasing is surely a good sign - have you tried something slightly stupid like pressing all the switches while you switch a computer on?  Who knows, maybe one of them will fix it.

I'll give it a shot here in an hour or so and see if it does anything I've held quite a few buttons but who knows.

The only other thing I think might be worth mentioning is that I edited my registry to change caps lock to ctrl on a keyboard I used to use that didn't have a mapper using some program I found online, however I doubt that's relevant since it had the same issue on a PC that hasnt had that done to it and my other leeku pcb doesn't have the issue on the pcs I did it to

[daviswalkers]

Tried holding down all the buttons, nothing changed.

[manofinterests]

I finally got around to building my ComPact SQ! This is perhaps the best groupbuy I've ever joined! Thank you so much

Link to Imgur Album: https://imgur.com/a/tQ7wg