Clueboard 66% PCB - Pre-soldered Underlight Available!

[pwade3]

Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.

Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid.

Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:


Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.


Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!

[StormyMonday]

Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.

Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)

Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)

Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)

Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!

I tried to post a vid from my phone, but it crashed and burned. Anyhoo, I'm running a v2.0 PCB, with Skully's latest hex and I initially had orange LEDs racing back and forth in a marquee effect. Cycling through the modes Fn+S+Spacebar gave me all of the LEDs cycling through the rainbow together. That seems to be the only effect programmed at present, perhaps due to a memory limitation.

Based on your vid, I'd guess that you have either a bad solder joint, or a faulty LED, since these work like old Christmas lights ... when one goes out, it affects its neighbors. Sorry, but the resolution of my laptop screen isn't good enough for me to spot the trouble area.

Best of luck!

[skullydazed]

Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.

Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)

Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)

Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)

Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!

If the LED's are flashing when you plug in you can ignore the pin at the corner with a line. You can also ignore the pin kitty corner from that.

Of the two remaining pins there is one that is on the same side as the "previous" LED. That one is the DIN (Data In) pin, and is where the control signal comes in at. Kitty corner from that pin is the DOUT (Data Out) pin. The DOUT on the last working LED should connect to the DIN of the first non-working LED, so check both of those first. If you really have lifted the pad in an unrecoverable way those are the two pins to jumper.

Good luck! You're getting closer to having it all working.

[faxe]

so, clueboard assembled, collected Massdrop case from the customs office. Tried to assemble it, but how on earth do I fix the plate/pcb assembly to the case? It moves up and down inside..

[pwade3]

Hey skully, no issues getting that hex on the board, but it seems I've got some issues with my LED soldering.

Here's my current results, mind you LED 2 and 3 were blinking while all others were solid. (Attachment Link)

Close up of LEDs 1, 2, and 3:
(Attachment Link)

Close up of LED 11 where the chain stops, I think I fried this spot on the board or something? Not sure, occasionally when I plug in the board this one will blink once very dimly and then nothing.
(Attachment Link)

Any advice on what I need to do as far as jumping these guys to work correctly? Or has that ship sailed? Or if you need better pics to diagnose, let me know!

If the LED's are flashing when you plug in you can ignore the pin at the corner with a line. You can also ignore the pin kitty corner from that.

Of the two remaining pins there is one that is on the same side as the "previous" LED. That one is the DIN (Data In) pin, and is where the control signal comes in at. Kitty corner from that pin is the DOUT (Data Out) pin. The DOUT on the last working LED should connect to the DIN of the first non-working LED, so check both of those first. If you really have lifted the pad in an unrecoverable way those are the two pins to jumper.

Good luck! You're getting closer to having it all working.

Thanks so much for the info, hopefully I can try to work on it soon.

Darn work is keeping me from putting together my board for work.  )

[skullydazed]

so, clueboard assembled, collected Massdrop case from the customs office. Tried to assemble it, but how on earth do I fix the plate/pcb assembly to the case? It moves up and down inside..

It's moving even after you screw it together? That's the part I find the trickiest with those cases, getting everything lined up just so. Try moving the plate around inside the case while lightly pressing the top of the case down. It should find a position that sorta sucks it all into place.

[merlin64]

pwade3, take a look at what I did to get around this. It's ugly, and it shows through my clear acrylic case, but it works on the solid colors just fine.

[pwade3]

pwade3, take a look at what I did to get around this. It's ugly, and it shows through my clear acrylic case, but it works on the solid colors just fine.

Did you get the correct jump figured out so that the one LED isn't messed up? I didn't see a post about it.

[merlin64]

It works more or less lol. The breathing effect works the best as all the LEDs are the same color, the ones that change or the ones that blink around are the ones you can tell something is wrong. I'm still gonna wait till the next PCB rev comes out though.

[maximm]

Are any of the acrylic layers RGB Diffusors? Like this


Does the "Smog" one have this effect?
Otherwise im thinking


Assembly: Do it myself!
Screw Color: Silver
Top Plate: Transparent Dark Blue
Switch Plate: Clear Acrylic
Reinforcing Plate: Clear
Middle Plate: Clear
Bottom Plate: Transparent Dark Blue Acrylic

[pwade3]

Finally had the time to look at my board, touched up a few of the LEDs and we have light!

Any advice on what to do from here? This is single color mode.

[skullydazed]

Are any of the acrylic layers RGB Diffusors? Like this

Show Image

Does the "Smog" one have this effect?
Otherwise im thinking


Assembly: Do it myself!
Screw Color: Silver
Top Plate: Transparent Dark Blue
Switch Plate: Clear Acrylic
Reinforcing Plate: Clear
Middle Plate: Clear
Bottom Plate: Transparent Dark Blue Acrylic

White diffuses pretty well, but to get that kind of effect you want clear and then you'll sand it yourself to frost the acrylic. The smoke acrylic won't diffuse as well as sanded acrylic will.

Finally had the time to look at my board, touched up a few of the LEDs and we have light!

Any advice on what to do from here? This is single color mode.

I'm not sure why that's happening. It's possible that you heated them up too high or too long. What temperature is your iron at?

I'm pretty confident they're otherwise soldered correctly, as the rest of the string are lighting up properly.

[pwade3]

I'm not sure why that's happening. It's possible that you heated them up too high or too long. What temperature is your iron at?

I'm pretty confident they're otherwise soldered correctly, as the rest of the string are lighting up properly.

~300 C

[romevi]

So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer

Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?

6u space bar


6.75u space bar


Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!

[Dernubenfrieken]

So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer

Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?

6u space bar
(Attachment Link)

6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)

Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!

I beleive the bottom left key has to be 1.25. Might have to put Option there and use the bottom layout.

[romevi]

So I'm trying to come up with different layouts for what I'd finalize for my Clueboard. At the moment, I have AEK II and M0116 caps I'd like to utilize. After fiddling with Keyboard Layout Editor, I realize the AEK II space bar wouldn't work with any of the layouts I had in mind, so I guess I'd have to order space bars from PMK to fully optimize what I'd prefer

Below I have two different ideas, one with a 6u space bar and the other (2nd) with a 6.75u space bar. Are any of these renders possible, even?

6u space bar
(Attachment Link)

6.75u space bar
(Attachment Link)

Any one else got any other ideas? The only caps I'd have to prioritize at the bottom would be the Caps Lock at the far left from the M0116 board (would the lock switch be a possibility to use, too?). Any other layouts I can consider. Thanks!

I beleive the bottom left key has to be 1.25. Might have to put Option there and use the bottom layout.

So the only keys on the far bottom left have to be 1.25u or 1.5u?

[zombimuncha]

Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???

[skullydazed]

Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???

Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)

[zombimuncha]

Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???

Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)

OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?

[need]

Do the Acrylic case metal plate also fit the regular FC660m/Varmillo case

Yes

[skullydazed]

Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???

Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)

OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?

That specific behavior is rather complicated, but you could do it if you know a little bit of C. You'd need to write custom behavior for the Fn key but it could be accomplished.

If you are ok with Fn-Capslock toggling both on and off it's much simpler.

[zombimuncha]

Can toggle Fn on/off (like capslock), like with a long press or something???

Yes, you can have a simple toggle or you can program a key so that if you press and release it is one key (like switch layer) but if you hold it down it's another key (like momentary toggle layer.)

OK, so could it be set up so that it's otherwise exactly the same as my stock 660m, but if I hit Fn-Capslock the Fn-layer is toggled on, so I could then hit sequences of F-keys without holding any other key down, then toggle the Fn-layer back off by tapping Fn again?

That specific behavior is rather complicated, but you could do it if you know a little bit of C. You'd need to write custom behavior for the Fn key but it could be accomplished.

If you are ok with Fn-Capslock toggling both on and off it's much simpler.

Great answer. Really tells me everything I wanted to know and reassures me that you fully understood the question. Thanks!

[Dernubenfrieken]

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aluminum-case-for-leopold-fc660m?mode=guest_open

Aluminum Case back up on Massdrop.

[romevi]

Yay!

[cheddarbek]

Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.




I've got it assembled with the aluminum Leopold case from Massdrop, with 65g Zealios and Originative Co keycaps. I'm chuffed with this!

[faxe]

Did you have any problems with the pcb/plate combo sitting loosely in the massdrop case?

[cheddarbek]

Did you have any problems with the pcb/plate combo sitting loosely in the massdrop case?

I did, yeah. I had a good millimeter or two of play, especially on the left hand side. When I would put the case together everything would seem fine, but any movement of the board and suddenly the pcb/plate would come loose. I resolved it by putting little foam feet on top of the plate at each corner. Now it's in there solid and perfect.

[StormyMonday]

I've got it assembled with the aluminum Leopold case from Massdrop, with 65g Zealios and Originative Co keycaps. I'm chuffed with this!

Show Image

Looks great!

Congrats!!!

[merlin64]

Looks like my soldering didn't hold up. I left my keyboard plugged in over the weekend, when I got to it, I noticed my solid colored light was exhibiting different colors. I unplugged/replugged the USB cable and I haven't been able to get the LEDs to turn on again. All keys still work fine.

Is there anyway I can just buy parts of the acryllic case such as the bottom metal plate?

[skullydazed]

Looks like my soldering didn't hold up. I left my keyboard plugged in over the weekend, when I got to it, I noticed my solid colored light was exhibiting different colors. I unplugged/replugged the USB cable and I haven't been able to get the LEDs to turn on again. All keys still work fine.

Is there anyway I can just buy parts of the acryllic case such as the bottom metal plate?

Not yet, but soon. I'm working this week on a new storefront where you'll be able to buy individual parts as well as kits.

[romevi]

Okay, so I think I've come up with the layout I'd like to use with Alps:



I'm almost certain that this layout will be fully supported by the PCB, but if anyone can correct me let me know. Ideally I'd like to change the space bar to 6.25u or one of the right mods to 1u to accommodate a 0.25u gap between the right mods and arrows, but don't think that's possible.

Now, the only issue would be finding a keyset with a bottom row that accommodates this, well as the right Shift, which I didn't realize until recently is the same size as the left Shift.

Man, this is tricker than I thought for Alps!

[JaccoW]

I might br able to check tonight but keep in mind the issue with Alps isn't so much the pcb... but the plate. I wanted a 1.25x + 1x right shift +Fn combination but the plate dimply doesn't support it due to the nature of Alps.

As to keycaps;

Show Image

Here is a teaser of what I plan on doing with the board. It's not soldered yet just sort of assembled with the switches popped in.

First thoughts:
- I need new smaller screws.
- This will be one of my most colorful boards yet. :P
- Unless I can find an Alps spacebar I might just pop in a cherry switch for that key
- It's a good thing Alps DCS Infinity came with an extra set of mods with different legends for that second shift.
- Quiet Clicks are really quiet. Even compared to MX Clears  :eek:
- I need more Cherry stabs
- My colleagues are going to think this thing is freaky. :))

[zombimuncha]

Do you have any plans to add backlighting support to the PCB? I'm thinking it'd be nice to be able to indicate the different fn-layers by different patterns of LEDs, like lighting only the top row to show that they are F-keys instead of numbers, or lighting only the embedded numpad below 890.

[skullydazed]

Do you have any plans to add backlighting support to the PCB? I'm thinking it'd be nice to be able to indicate the different fn-layers by different patterns of LEDs, like lighting only the top row to show that they are F-keys instead of numbers, or lighting only the embedded numpad below 890.

It's on my roadmap but I don't have a timeframe in mind yet.

[merlin64]

Anyone have a solution to not having to disassemble my acrylic case every time I need to hit the reset button?

For future revisions of the case,  can we have a cutout for the button or something?

[MOZ]

Can't you assign it to a key on an alternate layer?

[skullydazed]

Anyone have a solution to not having to disassemble my acrylic case every time I need to hit the reset button?

For future revisions of the case,  can we have a cutout for the button or something?

The official firmware is QMK now, and that has a RESET button you can assign somewhere. By default you press Fn+S+R.

[kokokoy]

Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.

Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.

[Wannabe]

Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.

Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.

Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).

[skullydazed]

Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.

Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.

Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).

I may have forgotten it on a couple.  I also have a page about it on my in progress support site: https://clueboard.freshdesk.com/solution/articles/16000002183-my-left-shift-doesn-t-work

The next batch of PCB's will not require that, but I still have a good bit of stock left.

[cheddarbek]

Got my Clueboard built over the weekend. I ran into some trouble with the left shift key. Putting the switch in LShift, it wasn't recognized by the board. After putting a jumper in ISOLShift it worked perfectly - why, I'm sure I do not know.

Thanks for sharing this out. Just tested my PCB today and it behaves the same as yours.

Did you guys not have a packet in your package labeled Clueboard 2.0 Errata? My PCB came with a stapled together pack of papers that stated the pcb had this problem and how to fix it (the fix being what you guys already figured out...putting a jumper in ISOLShift).

That sounds like instructions. We don't need instructions, half the fun is ruined when everything just works properly.

[liftylol]

hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?

[skullydazed]

hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?

For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.

[liftylol]

hey skully, thanks for the answer! i oredered yesterday, a custom plate would be so awesome! i can send you the order number if you want. thanks mate!

[yinzer]

I've been working on a web UI for configuring the Clueboard. Eventually I'd like it to give you a hex you can flash, but for now it's only a UI demonstration. You can check it out here:

http://configurator.clueboard.co/keyboard/clueboard

The best part is that I've open sourced it. I hope it won't stay limited to just the Clueboard but will be used by lots of QMK based projects.

https://github.com/skullydazed/qmk_configurator

Please try it out and tell me how this works for you so far.

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.

I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?

Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.

I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0

I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.

OK, I've got it working for now. You can fetch the latest code to build a working firmware.

However, RGB Underlighting does not work. It's adding 4870 bytes to the final hex, pushing up way over the 32k limit. I'm trying to figure out why that is.

Thanks for the heads up, might be able to try putting it on when I get home from work.

I think someone posted something saying with certain firmware that the LEDs would flash when plugging in the board, but not be controllable. Don't suppose that's the case for this firmware is it?

Wanted to test one LED before proceeding to solder all of them on. Luckily I'm busy tonight and tomorrow, so I'm not too heartbroken or anything.

I think I have some answers here. The combination of options in the Makefile I have published now should result in a firmware of the proper size. If you just want to test you can grab the pre-compiled firmware I published here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fue7hcnf9h4n4fz/clueboard2_with_underlight.hex?dl=0

I've been talking to Jack about how to reduce that size for the Clueboard, and have a couple avenues I'm investigating for that so we don't run into this problem again.

Any updates on this front? I'd like to customize the keymap while maintaining the underlight. It's also possible that I missed an update and it's good to go from GH.

[romevi]

hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?

For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.

Speaking of acrylic plates, are they completely translucent or do they come frosted as well? I was wondering how orange Alps would feel like with acrylic plates; I've already decided on a layout I'd like, but wondering if I should go with an acrylic plate to give it less resistance.

[skullydazed]

hey everyone, i was just wondering if all the supported layouts on the pcb are supported by the top plate for alps? and if not, which layouts are supported? standard/iso/iso/standard, would that work?

For alps only ANSI with a standard top row is supported. If you're OK with an acrylic plate I can cut a custom plate to support any layout.

Speaking of acrylic plates, are they completely translucent or do they come frosted as well? I was wondering how orange Alps would feel like with acrylic plates; I've already decided on a layout I'd like, but wondering if I should go with an acrylic plate to give it less resistance.

The acrylic I have for switch plates is either opaque or transparent, nothing transcluent. (Although even the opaque white lets some light through.)

[skullydazed]

Exciting News! You can now pick up a PCB with the underlight pre-soldered! Pick yours up today: https://shop.clueboard.co/clueboard-66-pcb-version-2-0.html

[Phenix]

Nice!

Whats the progress on the cluepad?

[kokokoy]

Need help guys / skully. Had the board for ~3 months w/o issues but few weeks ago it started to act up. First noticed that suddenly the left win key and left alt key started to be on the other way around. Never messed around the firmware since I flash it. Ignored this then a week after its now completely a mess. Only 2 keys are registering correctly left shift and left arrow, can still flash and change the assignment for this two. But the rest of the keys its either not registering any, wrong keys being thrown or multiple key presses.

My soldering was a mess since this was my first, but it worked for months so don't know whats going on. Anyway here\s an image after flashing. Is there anything off here?