If one of the pins on the MCU was bad, then all the keys in the column/row of the bad pin wouldn't work.

So you should look up what row, column the three keys are on.  If they are all on the same row or the same column, that's a sign of one of traces or controller being bad.  If any other keys in the problem row/col work, then you know the MCU isn't bad and its pins are soldered fine.  There would be no point in resoldering the controller in this case.

If a trace is broken, what will happen is that every key after the break will stop working.  So a single break could take out the last three keys, and only the last three, in the row/col.  That would be the most likely problem if they are in the same row/col, but other keys (before the break in the trace) in that row/col still work.

If the three keys are in different rows and columns, then it's probably the diodes that are bad (less likely) or not soldered properly (more likely).

Lies, bigger is always better, everything else is the problem, including your neck.

So, the solution is to get a BIGGER NECK?

There was the dell S3225QC for $350,  32" 3840x2160 oled 120hz that Tp4 urged everyone to buy from Costco recently, But it's probably out of stock now in most places.

If you want something like that, you'll have to go to the $500 sale range, 165hz 4K OLED from MSI or Asus, usually Newegg.

Tp4 however recommends the new iterated dark film covered QD oled models. They're all using the same samsung dark film panels, but call it dark armor, etc, etc.

4K 240hz is great, will be in the $600-800 range,  4K 360hz is incoming, probably $1000+.

Up to 1k is fine as I probably gonna keep it for a decade...
Another requirements I forgot: It has to be a non glossy (matte) screen.