Theres something I still don't understand...why is NKRO so important? I don't plan on rolling my face across the keyboard so is NKRO really that important?
If your paying this much for a keyboard you'd expect it to live up to it.
NKRO is so miss understood as this all-key system. NKRO is simply the increase in redundancy against key blocking(ignoring of key or keys), rollover(when a set of combination is done some random key around the area is activated). And to give you the ability to make combination of keys on any set way of rows either same or different rows. In simplist terms NKRO is to increase redundancy maximize pros, eliminate cons.
But NKRO gives you the byproduct of full n-key, n being arbitrary like in math. No one is saying you are going to hit every key at once. But you will be typing all over the keyboard so having that redundancy system extends to every key to avoid issues anywhere on the keyboard. It is the transfer systems USB that limits the total output to 6 keys + 4 modifiers and PS/2 gives total.
Also i see quite a bit of talk about the force rating of diff switches, but what about dome/scissor force ratings? Are they all 60 as razer's site would claim. I just have a hard time swallowing everything they market =p
Not into scissor switches but from what some have said in some scissor switches the force can reach nearly 80-90+ grams but the short travel distance makes the feel much lighter.
Why exactly is tactile or clicky bad for gaming? I remember reading something about having to let the key come fully up before you can press it again but I dont know if thats for tactile or if thats for clicking.
Tactile is bad for primarily FPS gaming were a key is held down for extensive periods of time all the way down and the user is ignoring the tactility it simply get in the way mostly in the blues as the actuation and release points are at different areas. You don't have time to focus on that for FPS games but for other games it can simply be a muscle memory thing and you just use the keys in such a way were it'll always be the same if you use it enough times. In fact the smoothness in the linears gives you that resting capability to rest just before the actuation point and spam away, though it takes time to learn.
Linear is more properly known as Linear-progressive as linear in the sense means no tactile bump, it does subtly rise in resistance over a non-tactile curve or point. Hence why they are liked for FPS gaming.
I've noticed in recent times many people thinking linear MX switches are some different switch they all work 2.0mm actuation. It's just some people think linears need to be bottomed out, they don't, you just can't tell when they actuate so bottoming out is just a sign to stop.
As for mx red vs black, well I stopped recommended a long while ago. Indeed it's very difficult to recommend linear to anyone. Black's even after months of using them would become fatiguing they do start off at 40g, actuate at 60g, and bottom out at 80g.
Reds if you can find a cheap good quality of it then that be fantastic but reds are very rare. Reds are much lighter start off at around 30-35g, actuate at 45-50g, and bottom out around 60g.
