Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[SpAmRaY]

how much does international tracking cost?

You should get tracking for free with First Class International.

That depends on the destination.

[swill]

Is Sprit's GB currently the only place to buy a 75% PCB?  Really interested in that layout, but there does not seem to be very many options available to build one...

[divito]

From feng's Hammer thread, I assume this is his?



What's the easiest way to replicate this?

[Puddsy]

From feng's Hammer thread, I assume this is his?

Show Image

What's the easiest way to replicate this?

Case or set?

[divito]

Case or set?

Case.

[Pacifist]

I'm trying to ship an envelope to Australia by first class envelope, but online USPS won't let me pick envelope and it only lets me pick package.

Any help?

[SpAmRaY]

I'm trying to ship an envelope to Australia by first class envelope, but online USPS won't let me pick envelope and it only lets me pick package.

Any help?

There is no such option, it defaults to package which if your sending a bubble mailer is how it works. It should be in the ~$6 rang for First Class no tracking.

Otherwise you have to actually go to the post office.

[Pacifist]

I'm trying to ship an envelope to Australia by first class envelope, but online USPS won't let me pick envelope and it only lets me pick package.

Any help?

There is no such option, it defaults to package which if your sending a bubble mailer is how it works. It should be in the ~$6 rang for First Class no tracking.

Otherwise you have to actually go to the post office.

Thanks for the help!

Guess I'll be making a trip to the post office on Monday...

[BlackWidowMan777]

Can you turn off the fade effect with the Ducky Shine 3's reactive lighting mode to be like on the Shine 2 (which had no fade effect I think)?

[codyeatworld]

Is Sprit's GB currently the only place to buy a 75% PCB?  Really interested in that layout, but there does not seem to be very many options available to build one...

I'm gonna get one from GON soon, he still has mx minis for sale still. http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44147.0

[Melvang]

Are there any keyboards that are obtainable by the average Joe that are full backlite using costar stabilizers?

If so would someone be able to post a close up of the wire in the area of the LED?  Would prefer versions that do not use a SMD led or some goofy trick of LEDs under the PCB.

[alosec]

is the realforce 55g ACTUALLY uniform 55g weighted?

[do_Og@n]

is the realforce 55g ACTUALLY uniform 55g weighted?

I have yet to own one but yes they are.

[jonathanyu]

does kbdmod.com ship to worldwide?

[HPE1000]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

[Pacifist]

Why don't you just make some ghetto blues? Blues are pretty cheap

[HPE1000]

Why don't you just make some ghetto blues? Blues are pretty cheap

Already have, I just want to sell both of my QFR's and get one real green switch board.

[jdcarpe]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

[HPE1000]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

[jdcarpe]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

Yes, if you don't aim toward a custom layout like 1.5-unit modifiers and 7-unit spacebar on the bottom row, and are perfectly satisfied with the standard 87-key ANSI layout, a stock Filco will fit in the Vortex case with no issues. You can achieve programmable keymaps with bpiphany's Pegasus Hoof or HID Liberation Device. If you want to swap out the switches for Greens later on, you will have to desolder everything from the plate, anyway.

[HPE1000]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

Yes, if you don't aim toward a custom layout like 1.5-unit modifiers and 7-unit spacebar on the bottom row, and are perfectly satisfied with the standard 87-key ANSI layout, a stock Filco will fit in the Vortex case with no issues. You can achieve programmable keymaps with bpiphany's Pegasus Hoof or HID Liberation Device. If you want to swap out the switches for Greens later on, you will have to desolder everything from the plate, anyway.

Sounds like what I am going to do, I have no problem swapping switches later on, it's fun to do imo

Last ?, are there any places to buy a filco majestouch tkl for cheap in the us? If not then I will just get it used.

[jdcarpe]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

Yes, if you don't aim toward a custom layout like 1.5-unit modifiers and 7-unit spacebar on the bottom row, and are perfectly satisfied with the standard 87-key ANSI layout, a stock Filco will fit in the Vortex case with no issues. You can achieve programmable keymaps with bpiphany's Pegasus Hoof or HID Liberation Device. If you want to swap out the switches for Greens later on, you will have to desolder everything from the plate, anyway.

Sounds like what I am going to do, I have no problem swapping switches later on, it's fun to do imo

Last ?, are there any places to buy a filco majestouch tkl for cheap in the us? If not then I will just get it used.

The Keyboard Company through Amazon is really your only source for getting them new in the US. They do come up used from time to time here.

[rowdy]

Are there any keyboards that are obtainable by the average Joe that are full backlite using costar stabilizers?

If so would someone be able to post a close up of the wire in the area of the LED?  Would prefer versions that do not use a SMD led or some goofy trick of LEDs under the PCB.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49731.0

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51150.0

[MJ45]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

Yes, if you don't aim toward a custom layout like 1.5-unit modifiers and 7-unit spacebar on the bottom row, and are perfectly satisfied with the standard 87-key ANSI layout, a stock Filco will fit in the Vortex case with no issues. You can achieve programmable keymaps with bpiphany's Pegasus Hoof or HID Liberation Device. If you want to swap out the switches for Greens later on, you will have to desolder everything from the plate, anyway.

Sounds like what I am going to do, I have no problem swapping switches later on, it's fun to do imo

Last ?, are there any places to buy a filco majestouch tkl for cheap in the us? If not then I will just get it used.

If you want MX greens and go cheap buy a QFR with greens, use the case, switches and plate. I built my Phantom with a QFR case and it has a removable usb cable and its compatible with the Phantom pcb + Teensy. With the money you save you get a set of fancy keycaps. With the holidays coming a lot retailers all-ways have great QFR deals. The Phantom pcb also has in-switch leds (caps-scr lock) or Filco style option.

[jdcarpe]

Going to be a few questions here.

1. If I wanted to build a phantom board now where could I get a plate for it? (I don't care if it allows for opening of switches)

2. What LED's and Resistors would I need to get and where could I get them?

3. Is there a cheaper place to get green switches than 7bit?

4. Finally, would the phantom pcb fit in the vortex case?
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=212

1. Your best bet would be to have one cut locally. Laser cutting is the optimal way to have plates cut. Or you could use an online laser cutting service, such as pololu.com.

2. You only need two LEDs and the associated resistors. Around 3v forward, or similar, 3mm (T1) or 2x3x4mm. I think around 300 ohms for the resistors.

3. No, not that I know of.

4. Yes, but you will have to use some kind of non-conducting standoffs to support the PCB in the case, such as Sugru or custom printed supports from Leslieann.

Thanks, if I just wanted to save the trouble then a filco would just fit in there no problems? No new plate or custom standoffs needed, correct? I don't think there are any mx green tkl filcos so I could just mod them in later on no biggie.

Yes, if you don't aim toward a custom layout like 1.5-unit modifiers and 7-unit spacebar on the bottom row, and are perfectly satisfied with the standard 87-key ANSI layout, a stock Filco will fit in the Vortex case with no issues. You can achieve programmable keymaps with bpiphany's Pegasus Hoof or HID Liberation Device. If you want to swap out the switches for Greens later on, you will have to desolder everything from the plate, anyway.

Sounds like what I am going to do, I have no problem swapping switches later on, it's fun to do imo

Last ?, are there any places to buy a filco majestouch tkl for cheap in the us? If not then I will just get it used.

If you want MX greens and go cheap buy a QFR with greens, use the case, switches and plate. I built my Phantom with a QFR case and it has a removable usb cable and its compatible with the Phantom pcb + Teensy. With the money you save you get a set of fancy keycaps. With the holidays coming a lot retailers all-ways have great QFR deals.

But he wants to use the Vortex Aluminum TKL case from MK.com

[Krogenar]

My first encounter with Costar stabilizers! I bought a QFR, and there are these plastic adapters attached to the bottom of the spacebar -- on the the two outermost connection points. What's the right way to reattach this spacebar? Getting the wire back into the inserts looks ... well, I'd rather not break it.

[SpAmRaY]

My first encounter with Costar stabilizers! I bought a QFR, and there are these plastic adapters attached to the bottom of the spacebar -- on the the two outermost connection points. What's the right way to reattach this spacebar? Getting the wire back into the inserts looks ... well, I'd rather not break it.

yes those are evil.....I hate them....

the long side points towards the top of the keyboard

[nubbinator]

My first encounter with Costar stabilizers! I bought a QFR, and there are these plastic adapters attached to the bottom of the spacebar -- on the the two outermost connection points. What's the right way to reattach this spacebar? Getting the wire back into the inserts looks ... well, I'd rather not break it.

There are two ways.  First, slip the one side on, barely push out the wire on the other side a little until the other leg pops onto the wire, then push the space bar down as usual.  Second, pop off the clear little legs, slide them onto the wire in the correct orientation, and drop them down into the little cutouts for them so they're resting like they would when the spacebar is fully depressed.  Then just push the spacebar onto the stem and push it all the way down and rock to one side, then the other.  As long as you don't have loose SP stems, it should grab hold to both the stabilizers.

[LechnerDE]

Im interested in IMSTO's blue PBT dyesub set:

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=61

Wasn't this available for ~75$ a couple of months ago? I don't wanna pay premium on this thing...

[Krogenar]

My first encounter with Costar stabilizers! I bought a QFR, and there are these plastic adapters attached to the bottom of the spacebar -- on the the two outermost connection points. What's the right way to reattach this spacebar? Getting the wire back into the inserts looks ... well, I'd rather not break it.

There are two ways.  First, slip the one side on, barely push out the wire on the other side a little until the other leg pops onto the wire, then push the space bar down as usual.  Second, pop off the clear little legs, slide them onto the wire in the correct orientation, and drop them down into the little cutouts for them so they're resting like they would when the spacebar is fully depressed.  Then just push the spacebar onto the stem and push it all the way down and rock to one side, then the other.  As long as you don't have loose SP stems, it should grab hold to both the stabilizers.

Ok that, combined with Ray's 'long side towards top of keyboard' allowed me to conquer the evil. Thank you!

[Jixr]

looking to change my reds to blacks, buying springs from originative, stock blacks use what spring weight?

[lcs]

looking to change my reds to blacks, buying springs from originative, stock blacks use what spring weight?

I think 60.

[swill]

looking to change my reds to blacks, buying springs from originative, stock blacks use what spring weight?

It depends on which scale you use. On originative he has a graph with the weights on the spring page. I think he has blacks on that graph.

[BlueBär]

looking to change my reds to blacks, buying springs from originative, stock blacks use what spring weight?

About 90g, see http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46449.0

[Jixr]

Thats the actuation rate of blacks, i just need the spring rate.

[Melvang]

Thats the actuation rate of blacks, i just need the spring rate.

Cherry spring rates are figured at the actuation point and aftermarket springs are for the most part figured at bottom out point.

[Jixr]

so can anyone tell me which origninative springs are most like blacks?

[do_Og@n]

so can anyone tell me which origninative springs are most like blacks?

That would be the 65g ones on this page.

http://www.originativeco.com/collections/accessories/products/springs

[nubbinator]

so can anyone tell me which origninative springs are most like blacks?

That would be the 65g ones on this page.

http://www.originativeco.com/collections/accessories/products/springs

It's actually the 80g springs, not the 65g ones.  The 65g and 67g springs are both lighter than Blacks.  I say this both from personal experience and from the testing others have done.  If you look at the graph on his page, Blacks are the MX Heavy springs listed.

[HPE1000]

so can anyone tell me which origninative springs are most like blacks?

That would be the 65g ones on this page.

http://www.originativeco.com/collections/accessories/products/springs

You sure about that, I always saw people saying it was the 80g springs. Just look at the 62g springs on that chart, they are nowhere near mx heavy springs. The 62 on there show that they are closest to the light springs (red, blue, brown)

[do_Og@n]

Well color me confused. Maybe I'm going off the wrong scale. All the sites I've been to and even cherry states the blacks are 65g, blues are 55g, browns & reds are 45g.

Are they measuring different than what Originative measures???

[HPE1000]

Well color me confused. Maybe I'm going off the wrong scale. All the sites I've been to and even cherry states the blacks are 65g, blues are 55g, browns & reds are 45g.

Are they measuring different than what Originative measures???

Yes, korean springs are measured differently than how cherry measures.

[nubbinator]

Well color me confused. Maybe I'm going off the wrong scale. All the sites I've been to and even cherry states the blacks are 65g, blues are 55g, browns & reds are 45g.

Are they measuring different than what Originative measures???

Cherry is measured at actuation.  If I remember correctly, Korean springs should be at full compression or close to that.

[do_Og@n]

That's good to know. I'm not a huge fan of lighter springs so thankfully I didn't buy any yet.

Been here a couple years and I still learn something new.....love it!

[nubbinator]

That's good to know. I'm not a huge fan of lighter springs so thankfully I didn't buy any yet.

Been here a couple years and I still learn something new.....love it!

Yeah, I'm not a fan of lighter springs either, though 67g are awesome.  I sing their praise and worship in their temple.

That's definitely the mindset to come in here with too.  There's so much info that I know I always have something new to learn and, in some cases, unlearn.

[swill]

That's good to know. I'm not a huge fan of lighter springs so thankfully I didn't buy any yet.

Been here a couple years and I still learn something new.....love it!

On the springs page on originativeco.com this graph shows things pretty clearly...


Cherry springs are measured at actuation and their springs are measured at full key press (or there abouts).  In the notes on that page you can see that the 'Heavy' on that graph is in reference to Blacks (67g cherry; 88g korean) .  Also, notice that the 62g originative has an actuation of 52g and a down of 62g.

[whitevivian]

1) Thanks! I stumbled upon this seller another member had linked, whilst browsing through the forums. I'm looking for engraved white keycaps for my CM QFR.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3.w4002-3583352554.36.vKq8iu&id=13483583452

2) Still looking for stores selling laser engraved white keycaps, most are selling side/top printed ones.

1) Says right in the title that it will fit Filco/Das/Ducky so it's safe to assume its ANSI 104 which means it will fit your ANSI 87 Filco. ANSI 104 is just the fullsize keycap set. ANSI 87 is the same set minus the numberpad.

2) Engraved caps in general aren't popular since the indentation can get dirty fast.

we can easily search/get  the taobao item here:


MOD EDIT: Links removed, this is not the place to advertise.

[Pacifist]

1) Thanks! I stumbled upon this seller another member had linked, whilst browsing through the forums. I'm looking for engraved white keycaps for my CM QFR.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3.w4002-3583352554.36.vKq8iu&id=13483583452

2) Still looking for stores selling laser engraved white keycaps, most are selling side/top printed ones.

1) Says right in the title that it will fit Filco/Das/Ducky so it's safe to assume its ANSI 104 which means it will fit your ANSI 87 Filco. ANSI 104 is just the fullsize keycap set. ANSI 87 is the same set minus the numberpad.

2) Engraved caps in general aren't popular since the indentation can get dirty fast.

we can easily search/get  the taobao item here:
MOD EDIT: Links removed, this is not the place to advertise.

Can you stop advertising your website? If you really need to, message mkawa and he will make you a vendor. Otherwise you can't go around telling people to use your site

[CPTBadAss]

Is Sprit's GB currently the only place to buy a 75% PCB?  Really interested in that layout, but there does not seem to be very many options available to build one...

There's the Epsilon, GON's, MXMinis, and a few stock boards out with a 75% PCB. Noppoo Choc Mini comes to mind.

The mini usb port just fell off my Poker 2 pcb. What do I do?

PS looks like there are 2 black knobs on the bottom of it that anchor it on the pcb. One of them is broken off.

Edit: The other one just broke off too..

Yes, that is a blunt way of saying it. I know it's fixable. I probably just need to get another port and solder it back in place. Does anyone know if mini usb ports are generic? Can I just open up something like a broken camera and take it out?

Pretty sure they are. I think if you find the port and then use this guide from nubbinator, you'll be fine. You can also PM tjcaustin, TheFlyingRaccoon, and nubbinator for help.

Im interested in IMSTO's blue PBT dyesub set:

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=61

Wasn't this available for ~75$ a couple of months ago? I don't wanna pay premium on this thing...

There's a price check thread. Please ask there.

How would you compare the feeling of typing on SA keycaps to OEM?  Or a less ergonomic (flat) profile like DSA?  Just trying to imagine if there's a period of adjustment required for SA, where going to Cherry or DCS from OEM is not really dramatically different vs. going to DSA from OEM. 

SA caps are much much taller than OEM and DSA. The only time I had an adjustment period for caps was for DSA, since I felt like the surface area was smaller and it felt odd to me. SA caps are lovely; smooth, thick, super cuppy but tall. If going from Cherry to OEM bothers you, it might take a little getting used to. For me? SA was love at first touch.

does kbdmod.com ship to worldwide?

Pretty sure they do.

From feng's Hammer thread, I assume this is his?

Show Image

What's the easiest way to replicate this?

Honestly? You'll probably have to get someone to cut it for you after you make a CAD model/drawings for it. I've never seen a case like that since feng's.


I was AFK for a little while. If you asked a question and I didn't catch it when I read back, please PM me so we can help you.

[dorkvader]

The mini usb port just fell off my Poker 2 pcb. What do I do?

PS looks like there are 2 black knobs on the bottom of it that anchor it on the pcb. One of them is broken off.

Edit: The other one just broke off too..

Yes, that is a blunt way of saying it. I know it's fixable. I probably just need to get another port and solder it back in place. Does anyone know if mini usb ports are generic? Can I just open up something like a broken camera and take it out?

Pretty sure they are. I think if you find the port and then use this guide from nubbinator, you'll be fine. You can also PM tjcaustin, TheFlyingRaccoon, and nubbinator for help.

The port on the jack itself is standardized by the USP implementers forum, and will be basically the same wherever you go, but the way it mounts to the PCB might vary. For example, the USB jack on the ergoDOX is soldered to the PCB. THe poker2 one appears to have PCB stabilizing and retention pins on it. You should get another one with these pins to replace it. Also check and see if the PCB is damaged where the jack is. If the traces are fine, then you probably can just replace it. If not, some sort of trace repair is necessary.