Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[pichu23]

Hiya, I've read up about lubing on the first page.
I've actually meaning to try to lube my clears that I have to be used with 62g springs.
Just wondering where can I get the lube from other than techkeys. I think those are a little too much for a 60% board that I'm planning on assembling. My current location is in the UK if that helps. Another thing I would like to ask about is, lubing the stabs. Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?
Or should I do both ? Probably the same thing, I'll just need a little to lube the stabs therefore I'm not too keen on purchasing a whole tube. Would like to ask if I can get them in small quantity.

Thanks !

[phoenix1234]

Hiya, I've read up about lubing on the first page.
I've actually meaning to try to lube my clears that I have to be used with 62g springs.
Just wondering where can I get the lube from other than techkeys. I think those are a little too much for a 60% board that I'm planning on assembling. My current location is in the UK if that helps. Another thing I would like to ask about is, lubing the stabs. Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?
Or should I do both ? Probably the same thing, I'll just need a little to lube the stabs therefore I'm not too keen on purchasing a whole tube. Would like to ask if I can get them in small quantity.
Thanks !

Well, I usually measure carefully for what I lube so here are somewhat maybe useful for you:
- 60%: 2.3g of lube
- 87%: 3.2g of lube
- 104% : 3.9g of lube
so what you get from techkey (4g) actually is perfectly for your need if you are going to lube 60% + the stabilizers. What techkey has probably the smallest package that you can have on the retail market, I think.

You can either clip the stabs or lube or do both. It is just a matter of personal reference.

[pichu23]

Hiya, I've read up about lubing on the first page.
I've actually meaning to try to lube my clears that I have to be used with 62g springs.
Just wondering where can I get the lube from other than techkeys. I think those are a little too much for a 60% board that I'm planning on assembling. My current location is in the UK if that helps. Another thing I would like to ask about is, lubing the stabs. Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?
Or should I do both ? Probably the same thing, I'll just need a little to lube the stabs therefore I'm not too keen on purchasing a whole tube. Would like to ask if I can get them in small quantity.
Thanks !

Wait so the lube from techkeys are alright for lubing stabs as well ? I'm going to order the thick variant if that helps. 
Thanks again for the reply 

Well, I usually measure carefully for what I lube so here are somewhat maybe useful for you:
- 60%: 2.3g of lube
- 87%: 3.2g of lube
- 104% : 3.9g of lube
so what you get from techkey (4g) actually is perfectly for your need if you are going to lube 60% + the stabilizers. What techkey has probably the smallest package that you can have on the retail market, I think.

You can either clip the stabs or lube or do both. It is just a matter of personal reference.

Oh alright. Just wanna ask if the techkeys lube are usable for stabs, or I'm getting the message wrongly. 
In this case would the thick lube be sufficient ? Or should I go for the very thick one instead ?
Thanks 

[combataran]

I'd like to get into switch tuning. What equipment do I need to start things off?

[Melvang]

I'd like to get into switch tuning. What equipment do I need to start things off?

An adjustable iron, Soldapult or Hakko 808/clone is very handy.  Outside of that just the materials you are using to tune your switches.

Really though, anything to get the solder off the PCB will work, just some methods work better than others.  But the easier the method the more expensive it is generally.

Edit so I don't double post.  On my M that I bolt modded a couple of the keys ping real bad when I release and they don't actuate until just before the bottom of the keystroke.  I was told that it is probably the bolts were to tight (brand new barrel plate from unicomp).  So I messed with those and got no change.  Upon further inspection the legends on a couple of the keys are actually starting to wear.    I am thinking I should replace the caps and springs/hammers for the entire board before selling so the end purchaser gets the full appreciation of the glory that is buckling spring. 

1.  Could these symptoms be from weak/worn out springs?
2.  Would this be a wise decision?

[phoenix1234]

Oh alright. Just wanna ask if the techkeys lube are usable for stabs, or I'm getting the message wrongly. 
In this case would the thick lube be sufficient ? Or should I go for the very thick one instead ?
Thanks 

Then it comes to stabilizers and keyswitch matter. If you have Costa stabilizers, you should go with Thick lube or Super Thick.  If you have Cherry stabilizers, Thin lube would be a better choice.

However, it comes to a second question, which kind of key switch you are going to lube, Cherry Mx Black, Brown or Clear?  It's more important. You should base on the type of your switch to choose the type of lube instead of the stabilizers. The stabilizers should come later because I think Thick or Thin lube on techkey doesn't create big impact on key feeling stabilizer feelings.

Some combinations:
Black (or 80g spring) + Costa stabilizers : Thick lube
Super Black (or > 100g spring) + Costa stabilizers : Super Thick
Black (or 80g spring) + Cherry stabilizers : Thick or Thin
Ergo Clear (or 62g spring) + Cherry stabilizers : Thin
...

[juguerre]

Hi, I just read at deskthority that RF 55g is an exclusive product of Elite Keyboards... Is it true?

[BlueBär]

Then it comes to stabilizers and keyswitch matter.

Lubing the switch will not change the feel of the stabilizer of course. For the stabilizer grease is recommended instead of normal lube. If you have Cherry stabilizers you should also clip them.

As for which lube I would just follow mkawas recommendation: thick for clears, thin for linears.

I'd like to get into switch tuning. What equipment do I need to start things off?

As Melvang already said, you need some soldering equipment and the materials that you need for the mods themselves, so stickers, lube and springs. I would also highly recommend you to buy or build yourself a switch opening tool.

Hi, I just read at deskthority that RF 55g is an exclusive product of Elite Keyboards... Is it true?

Nope: http://www.leopold.co.kr/?doc=cart/item.php&it_id=1339555983
Found this via the DT wiki.

[juguerre]

Ouch! 350$ for the RF 55g...

[phoenix1234]

Ouch! 350$ for the RF 55g...

Where did you get that price?
I saw EK only selling at 215$
http://www.elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rftenkeyless&pid=rf_se0800

[BlueBär]

Ouch! 350$ for the RF 55g...

Where did you get that price?
I saw EK only selling at 215$
http://www.elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rftenkeyless&pid=rf_se0800

At the link I posted just one post above his.

[combataran]

I'd like to get into switch tuning. What equipment do I need to start things off?

As Melvang already said, you need some soldering equipment and the materials that you need for the mods themselves, so stickers, lube and springs. I would also highly recommend you to buy or build yourself a switch opening tool.

Which kind of lube? From techkeys.us? And where can I buy a switch opening tool/how do I build one myself?

[riotonthebay]

I'd recommend skipping the switch stickers, unless you're doing it for purely aesthetic reasons. And in that case, I'd recommend you think hard about how often you're going to actually look at the switches, and when the answer is "every time I occasionally swap keycaps," skip the stickers anyways.

[fohat.digs]

On my M that I bolt modded a couple of the keys ping real bad when I release and they don't actuate until just before the bottom of the keystroke.  I was told that it is probably the bolts were to tight (brand new barrel plate from unicomp).  So I messed with those and got no change.  Upon further inspection the legends on a couple of the keys are actually starting to wear.    I am thinking I should replace the caps and springs/hammers for the entire board before selling so the end purchaser gets the full appreciation of the glory that is buckling spring. 

1.  Could these symptoms be from weak/worn out springs?
2.  Would this be a wise decision?

On a bolt mod I keep my bolts loose. I hold the 4mm socket in my fingers and go to just barely what I would call "snug"

I have tried going tighter and it almost always seems to cause problems.

Tired/worn/weak springs may be a myth. I am not sure that I buy that idea, although I have tons of extra springs so I always try to use ones that look fresh and shiny.

Legends wearing on dye-sub PBT caps? They must have A LOT of use on them!

White Unicomp legends are pad printed and wear out rapidly.

[BlueBär]

Which kind of lube? From techkeys.us? And where can I buy a switch opening tool/how do I build one myself?

You can get it from mechanicalkeyboards.com, too, whatever you prefer.

TheBeast occasionally gets some switch tools made, you can also look in the classifieds. Descriptions of how to build one are here, you need to scroll down a bit: http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/i-did-a-guide-of-how-to-open-cherry-switches-t2458.html

[CPTBadAss]

1) Just wondering where can I get the lube from other than techkeys. My current location is in the UK if that helps. 2)Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?

1) Like BlueBar mentioned, you can buy Krytox lube from MechanicalKeyboards.com as well.
2) I know WASD and The_Beast have said they used SuperLube to lube their stabilizers. I have non-lubed, clipped Cherry stabilizers on my KMAC.

Where can I buy a switch opening tool/how do I build one myself?

Check out this link.

Hi, I just read at deskthority that RF 55g is an exclusive product of Elite Keyboards... Is it true?

I believe that the exclusivity thing is only for the US. Hence the Leopold link from BlueBar.

I'd recommend skipping the switch stickers, unless you're doing it for purely aesthetic reasons. And in that case, I'd recommend you think hard about how often you're going to actually look at the switches, and when the answer is "every time I occasionally swap keycaps," skip the stickers anyways.

I completely agree with this. I don't sticker any of my switches or keyboards. I don't feel any difference when switches are stickered and I don't care about the looks when I'm swapping caps.

[combataran]

Which kind of lube? From techkeys.us? And where can I buy a switch opening tool/how do I build one myself?

You can get it from mechanicalkeyboards.com, too, whatever you prefer.

TheBeast occasionally gets some switch tools made, you can also look in the classifieds. Descriptions of how to build one are here, you need to scroll down a bit: http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/i-did-a-guide-of-how-to-open-cherry-switches-t2458.html

Thanks!

[pichu23]

Then it comes to stabilizers and keyswitch matter.

Lubing the switch will not change the feel of the stabilizer of course. For the stabilizer grease is recommended instead of normal lube. If you have Cherry stabilizers you should also clip them.

As for which lube I would just follow mkawas recommendation: thick for clears, thin for linears.

Hiya, I'm planning to get the thick version. But as you said the grease are recommended instead of lube. Is there any grease I can get in small quantity or amount tho?
Thanks.

Oh alright. Just wanna ask if the techkeys lube are usable for stabs, or I'm getting the message wrongly. 
In this case would the thick lube be sufficient ? Or should I go for the very thick one instead ?
Thanks 

Then it comes to stabilizers and keyswitch matter. If you have Costa stabilizers, you should go with Thick lube or Super Thick.  If you have Cherry stabilizers, Thin lube would be a better choice.

However, it comes to a second question, which kind of key switch you are going to lube, Cherry Mx Black, Brown or Clear?  It's more important. You should base on the type of your switch to choose the type of lube instead of the stabilizers. The stabilizers should come later because I think Thick or Thin lube on techkey doesn't create big impact on key feeling stabilizer feelings.

Some combinations:
Black (or 80g spring) + Costa stabilizers : Thick lube
Super Black (or > 100g spring) + Costa stabilizers : Super Thick
Black (or 80g spring) + Cherry stabilizers : Thick or Thin
Ergo Clear (or 62g spring) + Cherry stabilizers : Thin
...

I'm planning to lube clears with 62g. I guess thick should be a better choice no? Cause I'm planning to lube the sliders and rail of the stem and housing. Then again thick lube should be alright for lubing the stabs as well. I'm using cherry stabs Btw.

1) Just wondering where can I get the lube from other than techkeys. My current location is in the UK if that helps. 2)Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?

1) Like BlueBar mentioned, you can buy Krytox lube from MechanicalKeyboards.com as well.
2) I know WASD and The_Beast have said they used SuperLube to lube their stabilizers. I have non-lubed, clipped Cherry stabilizers on my KMAC.

Oh. The thing is MK's shipping to UK is quite a hefty amount Another thing I would like to ask is whether if I were to clip the stabs, is lubing really necessary? Superlube is quite pricey I'd say (at least from the prices I see online in the UK) and the hassle to look for it.

[CPTBadAss]

Hiya, I'm planning to get the thick version. But as you said the grease are recommended instead of lube. Is there any grease I can get in small quantity or amount tho?

2)Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?

2) I know WASD and The_Beast have said they used SuperLube to lube their stabilizers. I have non-lubed, clipped Cherry stabilizers on my KMAC.

Try looking for an equivalent grease to SuperLube in a small quantity near you?

I'm planning to lube clears with 62g. I guess thick should be a better choice no? Cause I'm planning to lube the sliders and rail of the stem and housing. Then again thick lube should be alright for lubing the stabs as well. I'm using cherry stabs Btw.

As for which lube I would just follow mkawas recommendation: thick for clears, thin for linears.

Since mkawa is the one that created the thick and thin mixes you're buying from TechKeys or Mechanicalkeyboards.com, I think sticking with his recommendations is a good idea. So thick mixture Krytox lube on clears. Also typically Krytox is only used to lube switches, not stabilizers. You're more than welcome to experience though.

[pichu23]

Hiya, I'm planning to get the thick version. But as you said the grease are recommended instead of lube. Is there any grease I can get in small quantity or amount tho?

2)Should I just lube the stabs or do I just clip them ?

2) I know WASD and The_Beast have said they used SuperLube to lube their stabilizers. I have non-lubed, clipped Cherry stabilizers on my KMAC.

Try looking for an equivalent grease to SuperLube in a small quantity near you?

I'm planning to lube clears with 62g. I guess thick should be a better choice no? Cause I'm planning to lube the sliders and rail of the stem and housing. Then again thick lube should be alright for lubing the stabs as well. I'm using cherry stabs Btw.

As for which lube I would just follow mkawas recommendation: thick for clears, thin for linears.

Since mkawa is the one that created the thick and thin mixes you're buying from TechKeys or Mechanicalkeyboards.com, I think sticking with his recommendations is a good idea. So thick mixture Krytox lube on clears. Also typically Krytox is only used to lube switches, not stabilizers. You're more than welcome to experience though.

Thanks ! I'll get the thick one then. I'll try and look around the convenient store for grease then. Any particular characteristic on the grease that I should be looking out for ? :3

[CPTBadAss]

Any particular characteristic on the grease that I should be looking out for ? :3

If you're not sure, walk into a hardware store and ask them if they have a general purpose synthetic grease similar to SuperLube then show them that ad in the link I posted.

[pichu23]

Any particular characteristic on the grease that I should be looking out for ? :3

If you're not sure, walk into a hardware store and ask them if they have a general purpose synthetic grease similar to SuperLube then show them that ad in the link I posted.

Okie dokey thanks again !

[combataran]

What caps are these and how much do they usually go for?

[riotonthebay]

What caps are these and how much do they usually go for?

Show Image

They look to me like original Cherry dyesubs. (The legends don't quite pop enough for me to think they're doubleshot.)

For a mint condition ANSI set like that, you're talking $200+.

[CPTBadAss]

What caps are these and how much do they usually go for?

Show Image

Hard to tell exactly but it looks like harvested black on beige Cherry dyesub or doubleshot. If its dyesub, it's PBT. If it's doubleshot, it's ABS. Your best source for them is something like eBay. And the price will depend on the condition obviously. Here is a guide on Cherry keyboards and what keycaps they'll have. I'm also far from a Cherry expert so talking to someone like photekq, sixty, or Ivan will get you more info.

[BlueBär]

They look to me like original Cherry dyesubs. (The legends don't quite pop enough for me to think they're doubleshot.)

I think the legends are too thin for dyesub though

[riotonthebay]

They look to me like original Cherry dyesubs. (The legends don't quite pop enough for me to think they're doubleshot.)

I think the legends are too thin for dyesub though

That's true. The ? especially looks very thin. Well, scooped F/J and A-profile bottom row (I think?) limit it to either dyesubs or doubleshots.

[fohat.digs]

What caps are these and how much do they usually go for?

I suppose that it is the "pebble" color modifiers that drive the price up?

I am going to be selling a very nice straight-ANSI 11900 dye-sub PBT shortly, and I would be delighted to get 1/4 of that price.

But mine has all beige keys.

[CPTBadAss]

What caps are these and how much do they usually go for?

I suppose that it is the "pebble" color modifiers that drive the price up?

I am going to be selling a very nice straight-ANSI 11900 dye-sub PBT shortly, and I would be delighted to get 1/4 of that price.

But mine has all beige keys.

No it's the fact that people have been trying to find the sets NIB. And this is not the price check thread so let's migrate this discussion elsewhere.

[Photekq]

That set looks like Cherry doubleshots not dyesubs to me. I say that because of the slight reflection coming off the bottom row, and because of the colour. The grey modifiers on dyesub sets are lighter.

It's really hard to tell from that photo though.

ANSI 11900 dye-sub PBT

Dyesubbed 11900? Do you mean lasered?

Dyesubs go for $200-300+ due to their rarity. Doubleshot and lasered Cherry caps are fairly easy to find in decent condition. Dyesubs are incredibly hard to find in any condition.

[combataran]

Some follow up pics:

[CPTBadAss]

Some follow up pics:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

There's a bit of shine there so I think it's doubleshot ABS. Again, refer to my previous post. Which has relevant information. There's no retail store or GB currently selling these so you'll have to hunt. Well...maybe Sherry still has some but I'm not sure what the status of the Originative store is right now.

[combataran]

There's a bit of shine there so I think it's doubleshot ABS. Again, refer to my previous post. Which has relevant information. There's no retail store or GB currently selling these so you'll have to hunt. Well...maybe Sherry still has some but I'm not sure what the status of the Originative store is right now.

I'll take a look around. Thanks.

[Photekq]

Those just made me even more unsure. In the second pic the legends look off-black like dyesubs, and in the third the colours of the keys is much more similar to dyesubs.

Honestly, I don't know, although I think they're most likely doubleshots. Who took the photos?

[CPTBadAss]

Those just made me even more unsure. In the second pic the legends look off-black like dyesubs, and in the third the colours of the keys is much more similar to dyesubs.

Honestly, I don't know, although I think they're most likely doubleshots. Who took the photos?

From Listokei's site. But I don't know if that mean's Lisotkei took the pictures.

[fohat.digs]

Doubleshot and lasered Cherry caps are fairly easy to find in decent condition. Dyesubs are incredibly hard to find in any condition.

OK, you're right.

I had to get out a magnifying glass and bright light.

Mine are lasered.

[BlueBär]

Those just made me even more unsure. In the second pic the legends look off-black like dyesubs, and in the third the colours of the keys is much more similar to dyesubs.

Look at the 7 on the F7 key in the second picture. Again, too thin for dyesubs imo. Also seems somewhat shiny.

[phoenix1234]

Ouch! 350$ for the RF 55g...

Where did you get that price?
I saw EK only selling at 215$
http://www.elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=topre_keyboards,rftenkeyless&pid=rf_se0800

At the link I posted just one post above his.

Oh, I see, thanks

[Razor Lotus]

How often do "Stickiness" occur?

I just swopped my set on my pure to a dsa set and now the spacebar isn't as nice and springy anymore and I cant change the spring inside as i dont have anything small to open the switch with...

Do people usually use reds and have a black for a spacebar??

[CPTBadAss]

1) I just swopped my set on my pure to a dsa set and now the spacebar isn't as nice and springy anymore and I cant change the spring inside as i dont have anything small to open the switch with...

2) Do people usually use reds and have a black for a spacebar?

1) Stickiness after a swap like that usually means something wasn't set correct. Perhaps a stabilizer was shifted or it's not being seated right. Or maybe the spacebar is somehow shifted forward and hitting the case.

2) You can if you want. I don't think the older Cherry boards were setup like that though. For example, Greens were used in the spacebar switch on a board with MX blues.

[combataran]

Would the taihao gb dolch + addon fit on a kmac?

[CPTBadAss]

Would the taihao gb dolch + addon fit on a kmac?

Yes.

[Razor Lotus]

1) I just swopped my set on my pure to a dsa set and now the spacebar isn't as nice and springy anymore and I cant change the spring inside as i dont have anything small to open the switch with...

2) Do people usually use reds and have a black for a spacebar?

1) Stickiness after a swap like that usually means something wasn't set correct. Perhaps a stabilizer was shifted or it's not being seated right. Or maybe the spacebar is somehow shifted forward and hitting the case.

2) You can if you want. I don't think the older Cherry boards were setup like that though. For example, Greens were used in the spacebar switch on a board with MX blues.

Oh dear I'm abit worried now. Cause at first it was rubbing against the keys on the row above it and it was really bad so I flipped it over and while it doesnt rub against the keys on the other rows anymore, it doesn't have that crisp feeling anymore..

I'm not sure how to check if the stabs are a little off or not but they seem to be properly put on

EDIT: So I swopped back the old spacebar and everything works just fine. Nice and crisp. Just that DSA spacebar is abit slow and stiff on the bounceback

[combataran]

These. What caps are these(I only know they are doubleshots)? Pic from Reaper's KMAC Alert(?) review.

[CPTBadAss]

These. What caps are these(I only know they are doubleshots)? Pic from Reaper's KMAC Alert(?) review.

Show Image

Dude...don't those look exactly the same as the other keycaps you posted from Listokei? They're the same thing.

[Photekq]

Again, they're original Cherry doubleshots, from keyboards like the G80-3000HAU, etc.

The caps lock is from a G80-2550HPD

[gh_pp]

Installed my GMK key caps on QFR for a week and I noticed the cap-lock (I use it as Ctrl) is behaving differently than other keys.

So I popped it open and noticed there is a small plastic stem prop up which grinds against the cap-lock LED.



Are all GMK cap-lock keys like that? Or maybe the QFR's led position is not common?

What can I do to fix this? I don't think a file can reach there.

Thanks

[jdcarpe]

Installed my GMK key caps on QFR for a week and I noticed the cap-lock (I use it as Ctrl) is behaving differently than other keys.

So I popped it open and noticed there is a small plastic stem prop up which grinds against the cap-lock LED.

Show Image

Are all GMK cap-lock keys like that? Or maybe the QFR's led position is not common?

What can I do to fix this? I don't think a file can reach there.

Thanks

You could:

A) Clip that little plastic support using some flush cutters or similar; and/or

B) Remove the LED and sand the top of it flat using sandpaper. Then reinstall.

[combataran]

These. What caps are these(I only know they are doubleshots)? Pic from Reaper's KMAC Alert(?) review.

Show Image

Dude...don't those look exactly the same as the other keycaps you posted from Listokei? They're the same thing.

Lol. Sorry, they all look so much alike. It's either beige or something similar. Thanks again.

[Melvang]

Just for my reference the correct dimensions for standard 6.25 unit space bar to stabilizers is 50mm off the center stem, and 57.15mm for a 7 unit, correct?

I am looking for dimensions that fit the more common locations for space bars that are available aftermarket.