Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[jdcarpe]

Where I can get information about keyboard matrices? How to best wiring keys, or maybe poker or similar board for example or some projects with scheme layouts?

I think this is in the OP, but this is a great guide by komar007 on how to wire a matrix

http://blog.komar.be/how-to-make-a-keyboard-the-matrix/

[HoffmanMyster]

Is there any HHKB like case coming for the GH60?

Not especially made for the GH60 but the Duck Viper case should be able to fit it.

I can't find the reference photo, but I believe it actually won't - IIRC, the Viper case is a tray style and the PCB is actually non-rectangular.

[Puddsy]

Is there any HHKB like case coming for the GH60?

If you didn't already order a PCB, sprit makes an HHKB case for his PCB.

[jdcarpe]

Is there any HHKB like case coming for the GH60?

If you didn't already order a PCB, sprit makes an HHKB case for his PCB.

Ugh, acrylic.

[GeorgeK]

Hopefully this is a quick question.

What is it that makes vintage blacks feel different to ordinary blacks?  Is it the material that the switch housing is made out of or the slider itself?  I have some that are plate mount that I want to convert to PCB mount but I don't want to ruin the feel (they are definitely smoother than normal blacks at the minute)

Cheers

GK

[Melvang]

Hopefully this is a quick question.

What is it that makes vintage blacks feel different to ordinary blacks?  Is it the material that the switch housing is made out of or the slider itself?  I have some that are plate mount that I want to convert to PCB mount but I don't want to ruin the feel (they are definitely smoother than normal blacks at the minute)

Cheers

GK

IMO the biggest thing is age.  Worn smoothed over stems and upper housings along with slightly lighter (due to age and use) springs. 

To my understanding the only time the bottom housing touches the stem is at bottom out.  I say convert away and lube while you are at it.

[GeorgeK]

I thought that lubing might negate the point of vintage blacks? 

I'd definitely be keeping the upper housings, stems and springs so sounds like I'm all good

[BlueBär]

What is it that makes vintage blacks feel different to ordinary blacks?  Is it the material that the switch housing is made out of or the slider itself?  I have some that are plate mount that I want to convert to PCB mount but I don't want to ruin the feel (they are definitely smoother than normal blacks at the minute)

I'm actually pretty sure that the lower housing or rather its leaf spring is part of the smoothness as well. Still, the stems should be the biggest factor and I would use the old housing tops just for the bigger logo
The springs are not part of the smoothness and I personally would use new ones as the old ones tend to be a bit inconsistent because of usage.
Oh and nobody really know why they're smoother. I think different molds or materials were used.
Lubing them won't make them worse so might as well do it.

[Vitaly]

DIY: Is BlueTooth module should work as wireless HID device or it's preference only of controller and BT module may be any? Which module you can recommend for teensy/arduino microcontroller (bluetooth hid)?

Some solutions that I found:
a) hc-5 module  - http://goo.gl/v5j1Mz (ebay) - here is a possibility that you can update the firmware to work as hid (??)
b) BlueSMiRF HID - http://goo.gl/V65xTG (sparkfun) - expensive
c) CC2540 by TI - http://www.ti.com/product/cc2540 , http://goo.gl/VFko9F (aliexpress) - looks most interesting I think

May be anybody have some experience with BT HID?
 

[awong]

Is there guide to modify Model F AT to regular ANSI?

[222lu222]

Maybe you guys can help me with this problem ive been trying to solve!

I bought a new Lenovo y510p with Windows 8.1  As a gamer, I often map keys and sometimes hold them down continuously.

On my new laptop, when I hold down Shift, Ctrl or Alt they will not repeat.  They need to be pressed multiple times to repeat an action.  This makes it much more difficult for how I use these keys.

I have tried to disable all sticky and filter actions, as well as max increase rates.  At this time, no other keys seem to do this...all other A~Z and 0~9 keys repeat flawlessly.

Is this maybe a Windows registry setting?  I have an older Hp laptop with Windows 7 Professional x64 and it doesn't have this issue.

I know this may seem a silly issue, just remap to different keys, but if there is a possible fix action I'd really like to hear it.

[swill]

I believe the wire I have at home that I use as jumpers is 24 AWG solid copper core with the rubber outside. Is that the insulator?

Yes, that is what I meant by insulation.    So you use 24 gauge?

I believe so, yes. I'll need to double check when I'm home but that seems right in my head. And I didn't realize that was called insulation.

If you have a chance to check the gauge of the wire you used for hand wiring, I would appreciate it.    Anyone else have experience with hand wiring?  What gauge wire did you use?  Hints?

[CPTBadAss]

If you have a chance to check the gauge of the wire you used for hand wiring, I would appreciate it. 

24 gauge wire. It's sitting in front of me now.

Maybe you guys can help me with this problem ive been trying to solve!

I bought a new Lenovo y510p with Windows 8.1  As a gamer, I often map keys and sometimes hold them down continuously.

On my new laptop, when I hold down Shift, Ctrl or Alt they will not repeat.  They need to be pressed multiple times to repeat an action.  This makes it much more difficult for how I use these keys.

I have tried to disable all sticky and filter actions, as well as max increase rates.  At this time, no other keys seem to do this...all other A~Z and 0~9 keys repeat flawlessly.

Is this maybe a Windows registry setting?  I have an older Hp laptop with Windows 7 Professional x64 and it doesn't have this issue.

I know this may seem a silly issue, just remap to different keys, but if there is a possible fix action I'd really like to hear it.

Please repost this elsewhere such as the "Other Geeky Stuff" subforum. You probably won't get an answer as this thread is keyboard related. I personally have no idea. I've never heard of Shift, Ctrl, or Alt repeating themselves like that.

Is there guide to modify Model F AT to regular ANSI?

YakMN has a thread on this topic.

[swill]

If you have a chance to check the gauge of the wire you used for hand wiring, I would appreciate it. 

24 gauge wire. It's sitting in front of me now.

Sweet, thanks for the info. 

[Smasher816]

So. Lets talk ergo-clears. At keycon I got to try Hoffman's board and I have to say I really liked how they felt. Unfortunately he does not remember what weight they were. He also had some very heavy springs in the arrow keys which almost felt linear. I don't want it to feel like the heavy "linear" clear switches, and I heard that the lighter the spring is the more pronounced the bump will be. However, if you make it too light then the switch can have issues returning back to it's resting state (I think I'v heard 62g thrown around).

Unfortunately browns feel way too light to me, so I would want them to be heavier than that. However, 45g topre feels fine to me. So maybe the bigger bump and slightly heavier spring will be fine. I see the sprit group by is open. So, what do you guys think would be the perfect weight for me? It would be a pain to desolder all the switches, mod them, and resolder everything and not be happy. Maybe I should invest in a modded plate

[nubbinator]

So. Lets talk ergo-clears. At keycon I got to try Hoffman's board and I have to say I really liked how they felt. Unfortunately he does not remember what weight they were. He also had some very heavy springs in the arrow keys which almost felt linear. I don't want it to feel like the heavy "linear" clear switches, and I heard that the lighter the spring is the more pronounced the bump will be. However, if you make it too light then the switch can have issues returning back to it's resting state (I think I'v heard 62g thrown around).

Unfortunately browns feel way too light to me, so I would want them to be heavier than that. However, 45g topre feels fine to me. So maybe the bigger bump and slightly heavier spring will be fine. I see the sprit group by is open. So, what do you guys think would be the perfect weight for me? It would be a pain to desolder all the switches, mod them, and resolder everything and not be happy. Maybe I should invest in a modded plate

In my experience 62-65g lubed is the lightest you can go and not have any issues with return.  Personally, 65g is the lightest I'll go and I prefer 67-68g, but I haven't tried heavier.

Everyone has a different opinion about spring weights though.

[nuclearsandwich]

So. Lets talk ergo-clears. At keycon I got to try Hoffman's board and I have to say I really liked how they felt. Unfortunately he does not remember what weight they were. He also had some very heavy springs in the arrow keys which almost felt linear. I don't want it to feel like the heavy "linear" clear switches, and I heard that the lighter the spring is the more pronounced the bump will be. However, if you make it too light then the switch can have issues returning back to it's resting state (I think I'v heard 62g thrown around).

Unfortunately browns feel way too light to me, so I would want them to be heavier than that. However, 45g topre feels fine to me. So maybe the bigger bump and slightly heavier spring will be fine. I see the sprit group by is open. So, what do you guys think would be the perfect weight for me? It would be a pain to desolder all the switches, mod them, and resolder everything and not be happy. Maybe I should invest in a modded plate

I think Hoffman had actual linear (MX Black) switches in his arrow keys and escape for some game I can't recall the name of. I find that 68g-70g are good for me but you feel the tactility more with the lighter springs. The true GeekHack answer is to get 62g and 68g springs and make a few switches before you decide. Alternatively I think sprit has 65g springs and you could split the difference. Ultimately the range there is so tight that you'll adjust pretty well to any of them.

[Smasher816]

Thanks nubbs. Unfortunately testing a single switch with different weights really doesn't tell you how a whole keyboard will feel. So there is little way to test it out without doing the whole mod. Yes everyone has a different opinion on switches, I just hoped that maybe people could have some input on the spring weights vs. my brown/topre experiences, and hopefully help me narrow down a weight range. I think that even with the 62g springs it will still be harder to actuate then browns because of the bigger bump in the stem, although I am not sure (can anyone comment on that?). I know that topre are also "45g" but they don't feel as light to me as the browns.

Edit: thanks for the comment nuclearsandwich. That helps some. I think I will probably pick up a bag of 65g and maybe a sample pack.

[HoffmanMyster]

Wait!  Smasher, you are talking about my custom 70% layered board, while nuclearsandwich is referring to my LZ-GH.   

Custom 70% has some sort of modded and lubed clears, and some heavier clears on the arrows + esc.
LZ-GH has blues, with blacks on arrows + esc.

I am still not sure what springs are in those clears, but I will take apart the leftovers from that batch and swap in various weights of springs from sprit's last group buy, to hopefully find a close weight to go with, Smasher.  I'll go do this quick right now and report back.

PS, that game is TrackMania.   

[jdcarpe]

I'm pretty sure they are 62g springs, with probably 67g on the arrows and Esc. At least that's what they felt like to me.

[Smasher816]

I am still not sure what springs are in those clears, but I will take apart the leftovers from that batch and swap in various weights of springs from sprit's last group buy, to hopefully find a close weight to go with, Smasher.  I'll go do this quick right now and report back.

Thanks man. I appreciate it.

So jd, 5g is enough to create that big of a difference in feel? Some were fairly light with a nice bump, the others were noticeably heavier and almost felt linear. If that really is the case I might have to rethink the 65g since I don't want my whole board like the (67g?) arrows.

To be clear. I don't mind the weight of my stock clears as is. I just hope to bring out the tactile bump even more, without making the switches too light. Heavy "korean" springs seemed to do the opposite of that.

[CommonCurt]

I have a WFD SS plate already installed in a Filco. 

If I wanted to swap out the stabs for Cherry plate mounts is that possible with the plate already attached to the PCB?

[Dreamre]

I have a WFD SS plate already installed in a Filco. 

If I wanted to swap out the stabs for Cherry plate mounts is that possible with the plate already attached to the PCB?

The one switch needs to be desoldered .

[CPTBadAss]

5g is enough to create that big of a difference in feel?

I would say so. I can tell the difference between 62g, 65g, and 67g now. It's kinda scary to be honest.

To be clear. I don't mind the weight of my stock clears as is. I just hope to bring out the tactile bump even more, without making the switches too light.

Hm....I've actually never thought about that. I don't think the springs change how that bump feels. In all honesty, I think the stock Clears have the most noticeable bump. You could look into Panda Clears though. I think that's a good compromise if you like something on the heavier side bump still preserve the big tactile bump. Panda Clear = MX Black Spring + MX Clear Stem.

[CommonCurt]

I have a WFD SS plate already installed in a Filco. 

If I wanted to swap out the stabs for Cherry plate mounts is that possible with the plate already attached to the PCB?

The one switch needs to be desoldered .

Thanks Dreamre 

Which switch is that by the way?

[HoffmanMyster]

I am still not sure what springs are in those clears, but I will take apart the leftovers from that batch and swap in various weights of springs from sprit's last group buy, to hopefully find a close weight to go with, Smasher.  I'll go do this quick right now and report back.

Thanks man. I appreciate it.

So jd, 5g is enough to create that big of a difference in feel? Some were fairly light with a nice bump, the others were noticeably heavier and almost felt linear. If that really is the case I might have to rethink the 65g since I don't want my whole board like the (67g?) arrows.

To be clear. I don't mind the weight of my stock clears as is. I just hope to bring out the tactile bump even more, without making the switches too light. Heavy "korean" springs seemed to do the opposite of that.

Okay, here are my findings.  First, I only have 50g, 62g, 75, and 120g springs from sprit's R1 GB.  I thought I had more, but apparently not.  xD  Comments on the various combinations are as follows:

50g: Noticeably lighter than stock and the ones in my custom.  Did not perform well.  It's fairly well documented that below a certain point the spring lacks the force required to rebound, and this is below that point.
62g: This felt *very* close to the switches you liked in my custom, but did feel ever so slightly lighter.
Stock (65g, possibly a different scale): These felt slightly heavier than the switches you liked in my custom, but not by much.  Still rather enjoyable, and I think you would like these just fine.
75g: These felt very similar to stock, which surprises me.  Maybe the difference between Korean and Cherry spring weights is that big?

I didn't even try the 120g.

In summary, I think you would really like either 62g sprit springs or stock.  I think you would notice a slight difference when directly compared, but on their own you might not notice.  I think I was wrong about the switches being lubed.  I think the ones you liked are not lubed (or at least not lubed excessively), and the ones you do not like are lubed (or lubed more).  I think they are possibly a bit heavier, but not by much - I think the major factor is the lubedness.

I'd be happy to try other options and explore further, but that should be a good starting point.   

[nuclearsandwich]

Wait!  Smasher, you are talking about my custom 70% layered board, while nuclearsandwich is referring to my LZ-GH.   

Custom 70% has some sort of modded and lubed clears, and some heavier clears on the arrows + esc.
LZ-GH has blues, with blacks on arrows + esc.

I am still not sure what springs are in those clears, but I will take apart the leftovers from that batch and swap in various weights of springs from sprit's last group buy, to hopefully find a close weight to go with, Smasher.  I'll go do this quick right now and report back.

PS, that game is TrackMania.   

Whoops. I don't even think I typed on a 70% of yours, but clearly I must have in addition to the LZ... So many keyboards over that weekend. Ay.

[CPTBadAss]

I have a WFD SS plate already installed in a Filco. 

If I wanted to swap out the stabs for Cherry plate mounts is that possible with the plate already attached to the PCB?

The one switch needs to be desoldered .

Thanks Dreamre 

Which switch is that by the way?

The switch that is inbetween the stabilizer.

[awong]

Is GH60 Open Source? Can I have a shop make me a PCB?

[CPTBadAss]

Is GH60 Open Source? Can I have a shop make me a PCB?

Yes

[BlueBär]

Is GH60 Open Source? Can I have a shop make me a PCB?

Be aware though that the latest version, the one that people from the GB will be getting (Rev. C), is not public yet.

[Barracuda]

Hi GH , as I'm awaiting my white poker 2, I was wondering if there are any black stock poker 2 cases that I can get my hands on. Does anyone know how to get them? (I live in the Netherlands)

[BlueBär]

Hi GH , as I'm awaiting my white poker 2, I was wondering if there are any black stock poker 2 cases that I can get my hands on. Does anyone know how to get them? (I live in the Netherlands)

You can't normally buy the stock poker cases but somebody might have one if you ask in the classifieds (as soon as you fulfill the requirements).

[swill]

Hi GH , as I'm awaiting my white poker 2, I was wondering if there are any black stock poker 2 cases that I can get my hands on. Does anyone know how to get them? (I live in the Netherlands)

I would recommend asking in this thread. I am sure some of those people will have an extra stock poker case.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47776.msg1020610.msg#1020610

[hasu]

DIY: Is BlueTooth module should work as wireless HID device or it's preference only of controller and BT module may be any? Which module you can recommend for teensy/arduino microcontroller (bluetooth hid)?

Some solutions that I found:
a) hc-5 module  - http://goo.gl/v5j1Mz (ebay) - here is a possibility that you can update the firmware to work as hid (??)
b) BlueSMiRF HID - http://goo.gl/V65xTG (sparkfun) - expensive
c) CC2540 by TI - http://www.ti.com/product/cc2540 , http://goo.gl/VFko9F (aliexpress) - looks most interesting I think

May be anybody have some experience with BT HID?
 

1) In theory it may be possible but no practically. You need expensive CSR tooling and have to write firmware for HID yourself.
2) if this is expensive, you will have to give up HID stack and write it yourself.
3) BLE is intringuing but I have no experience of it. You will need to implement HOGP yourself.

I have used Roving RN-42 and Bluegiga WT12, both worked well enough for my keyboard.

[Vitaly]

DIY: Is BlueTooth module should work as wireless HID device or it's preference only of controller and BT module may be any? Which module you can recommend for teensy/arduino microcontroller (bluetooth hid)?

Some solutions that I found:
a) hc-5 module  - http://goo.gl/v5j1Mz (ebay) - here is a possibility that you can update the firmware to work as hid (??)
b) BlueSMiRF HID - http://goo.gl/V65xTG (sparkfun) - expensive
c) CC2540 by TI - http://www.ti.com/product/cc2540 , http://goo.gl/VFko9F (aliexpress) - looks most interesting I think

May be anybody have some experience with BT HID?
 

1) In theory it may be possible but no practically. You need expensive CSR tooling and have to write firmware for HID yourself.
2) if this is expensive, you will have to give up HID stack and write it yourself.
3) BLE is intringuing but I have no experience of it. You will need to implement HOGP yourself.

I have used Roving RN-42 and Bluegiga WT12, both worked well enough for my keyboard.

2) You bought SMD Module RN-42-HID ($19 only module) or BlueSMiRF ($45 with pcb board)?
3) I found bluegiga WT12 module for reasonable price,  do you have useful links about usage? You bought only module and create UART Breakout Board by yourself?

Thanks

[hasu]

2) I bought RN-42-EK first for easy start-up of development, I'll buy bare module next time 'cause I designed my PCB for it.
3) Bought breakout one from: http://www.inmojo.com/store/jeff-rowberg/item/wt12-bluetooth-breakout-board/
Bluegiga support site is the best resource, unfortunately you cannot find much info except for there.

I recommend RN-42 because it is easier to interface than WT12, but Bluegiga iWRAP is more fexible and fertile. If you need fine grained control of Bluetooth try WT12.

[skuko]

since i didn't find any relevant forum for this, i will just ask here:

what is your experience with originative please? (if any)

i have ordered a GMK orange on charcoal from them on the 17th July (i think) and received a "shipping" mail from them on the 18th, but USPS only states that they received electronic shipping info and it does not necessarily mean that the item was indeed shipped. i have requested more info on this from originative, but only received a generic reply with the same tracking number that i already had.

i'm starting to doubt that they even have it in stock, even though it was not marked as sold out. i have ordered it assuming that the wares would be readily available.

just wanted to ask about their practices (should probably have done so before ordering), because something stinks here. i will not hesitate with a chargeback if i don't receive a satisfying answer from them within a reasonable timeframe.

Originative Vendor Review, http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57652.0

so i'd like to update....

today, i received my first ever GMK made set from originative, the orange on charcoal...i must say it is freaking awesome


as for Originative, i i don't have anything, but praise for them. this was my first experience and even though i was weary of their past, i must say that Sheraton has answered my mails with a day and in a satisfactory manner.

delivery wasn't trackable, but the package arrived in 10 days from the US to Slovakia, which i find pretty fast.

all in all, a pleasant experience with originative.

[Vitaly]

2) I bought RN-42-EK first for easy start-up of development, I'll buy bare module next time 'cause I designed my PCB for it.
3) Bought breakout one from: http://www.inmojo.com/store/jeff-rowberg/item/wt12-bluetooth-breakout-board/
Bluegiga support site is the best resource, unfortunately you cannot find much info except for there.

I recommend RN-42 because it is easier to interface than WT12, but Bluegiga iWRAP is more fexible and fertile. If you need fine grained control of Bluetooth try WT12.

Your answer very helpful. Read docs about this modules at their websites and realized that's what I need. RN-42-EK good starting point, a bit expensive ($58 from mouser with shipping to my country), but I want to get one.  I had luck to get WT12 bare module for $11 on ebay, reference design also available at bluegiga website (good support!). I will start with this devices.

[Barracuda]

Hi GH , as I'm awaiting my white poker 2, I was wondering if there are any black stock poker 2 cases that I can get my hands on. Does anyone know how to get them? (I live in the Netherlands)

You can't normally buy the stock poker cases but somebody might have one if you ask in the classifieds (as soon as you fulfill the requirements).

What requirements are you talking about? The classifieds faq doesn't mention any requirements.

[CPTBadAss]

The classifieds faq doesn't mention any requirements.

From the Classifieds Rule sticky at the top of the sub-forum:

Creating sale / trade threads in the Classifieds subforum is limited to Geekhack.org users who have been members of the forum for at least 2 months and have 25 or higher post count

It's also in the new member's sub-forum and sticky thread.

[Smasher816]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

[HoffmanMyster]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

GMK doesn't actually do PBT as far as I know, but a decent option would be the Vortex double shot PBT sets.  Otherwise there is the occasional GB that will feature them, and SP sells sets (DSA is common from them), and I'm sure there are a ton of other sites that I'm missing.  Any reason you're avoiding the classifieds?

[CPTBadAss]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

Could try your luck with Originative and their BSP sets. Or try and hunt down vintage Cherry boards with PBT caps on eBay if you're not into the Classifieds.

[SpAmRaY]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59780.0

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/category&path=62

[nubbinator]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

Since no one mentioned it, mechanicalkeyboards.com usually has spme.Ducky PBT and I believe Qtan has Keycool or KBC PBT.  Banggood has some cheap Keycool PBT and you can usually find some on eBay, be it Keycool, Imsto, or Leopold.

[b7ad]

Does anyone know what the numbers on LZ special edition boards relate to? I haven't been able to find any info on it anywhere.

[Photekq]

Does anyone know what the numbers on LZ special edition boards relate to? I haven't been able to find any info on it anywhere.

All the ones made were numbered individually. They just show the order in which they were made.

[Smasher816]

Any PBT keycap sets besides GMK and Granite (Preferably purchasable outside of the classifieds). I really want to get rid of the stock caps on my wasd and the PBT caps on my HHKB have spoiled me.

GMK doesn't actually do PBT as far as I know, but a decent option would be the Vortex double shot PBT sets.  Otherwise there is the occasional GB that will feature them, and SP sells sets (DSA is common from them), and I'm sure there are a ton of other sites that I'm missing.  Any reason you're avoiding the classifieds?

Ahh sorry I meant BSP. Lots of acronyms floating around here. I don't mind the classifieds I just don't have a lot of time to follow every thread and you never know if anything will turn up. That is why I was curious about sets that I could purchase right now

I figured my blank HHKB could satisfy my "otaku" desire and the cherry board could then have some of the more exotic keycap sets out there. It's a shame there aren't more PBT sets readily available. Thank you for all the suggestions guys. These grey and blue set looks pretty nice - http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=865

If I were to go to with white which is the best (anyone have any experience with these)? I am not sure if I am ready to jump ship to DSA yet, so the SP one might be out...
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=858
http://www.ebay.com/itm/104-PBT-white-Blank-keycaps-Keyboard-Filco-Cherry-/301110459090?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461b94fad2
http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1

[dorkvader]

it is usually cheaper to buy from qtan's store rather than this eBay
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/category/cateogry1-name/catId=3982960

I've tried some PBT keycaps. They differ greatly in feel (the feel is mainly due to the mould it's cast in rather than the material itself.)

I really like Imso PBT, but it's a lot more smooth than others.
SP's thin PBT is also quite nice. If the profile weren't so... stabby, I'd probably have more. Maybe some blank dsa from them..?
the PBT on my pokerII was unimpressive

My favourite is probably the second (?) generation of IBM PBT, but that's not widely available for cherry.