Author Topic: Capcraft Hub - Updates & Tom Foolery Herein  (Read 576811 times)

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Offline Binge

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Capcraft Hub - Updates & Tom Foolery Herein
« on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 18:24:27 »
Hello Geekhackers,

This is an update as well of a summary of my trek into keycap prototyping and casting. 
First Id like to thank every one of my backers which made my start up possible.  It all started with this post
Quote
Uhhhh I'm gonna do it!

Show Image

and these people,
-Bunnylake
-Dgsbllx
-Halverson
-Badwrench
-SpAmRaY
-Glissant
-Lu_e
-lanlav123
-YMSNoms
-HoffmanMyster
-ApocalypseMaow
-do_Og@on
-esoomenona

Without the support of these individuals I would be several steps behind in my workflow.

When I started out with this project my mind was set on making a cast plastic figure of a modified keycap.  Brobots, Clickclack, Nubbinator, and others were really inspirational to me, and the unknowns of their craft had me drawing mold making concepts, keycap concepts, and planning out my next few months income to facilitate tinkering.  The resulting experience could be a great read, inspirational, or just plain boring enough that Ive felt it important to detail.  Trolololol to all ya bored folks. :p

Part 1 Sculpting a Concept

Before I could make molds it was really important that a prototype/master figure was made.  A surplus of gamer profile keys from Signature Plastics keycapsdirect.com were just what I needed to get going.  These caps would provide me with a wide base on which to sculpt.  From this base I developed the following shopping list by which to minimize cost and achieve maximum versatility with this project. 

**Disclaimer: Please exercise caution when using any materials listed in this write-up.  Some of them are highly toxic and a little bit of reading and use of protective clothing are conducive to a healthy lifestyle**


-Super Sculpey, Polymer Clay
-Apoxy Sculpt, Epoxy Clay
-Wax Sculpting Tools (dentists sculpting tools)
-Nitrocellulose lacquers

Super Sculpey Polymer Clay is neat.  This is a thermoset which is semi-solid and bakes hard.  The gamer profile keys I use as bases are PBT and PBT will not change state in the temperatures used to set this material. Temperatures for Super Sculpey, 275 F (130 C). 15 min/ 1/4 in (6 mm) thickness.  (Not toxic, not food safe)

Apoxy Sculpt Epoxy meets a filler material and cures rock hard.  This stuff is awesome and requires no baking. The material is two-part and sets hard in 3 hours without exposure to oxygen, and no heat is generated during this process.  Ive gotten it to stick to metal, wood, POM, ABS, and PBT.  High retention of detail and the end result responds well to sanding/painting. (Highly Toxic)

Wax Sculpting Tools Every kind of poke, pull, scoop, or slice you could think to apply to your medium a standard set of Wax Sculpting utensils will do the trick.

Nitrocellulose Lacquers Great for most applications on plastic.  The lacquers will slightly harm the surface of your plastics and bond with them.  The benefit is the hardness and the drawback is the permanence.  Without a lot of care or brush control the only solution for screwing up is to let it dry and use MOAR PAINT! (Highly Toxic)

Between starting and following through my perception of this task changed.  With it I developed an understanding that to do this one needs a little bit of coordination, patience, and time, lots of time, to dedicate to the figure.  In the past few months Ive made over 20 sculpts.  Each sculpting takes from start to finish, including paint, about 5 hours.  Without paint about half of that time is taken from the project bringing a complete sculpture to 2.5 hours give or take 30 minutes.  Im sure with more practice this time could be taken down to an hour, but that is a stretch.

From concept to finished product has been a bit more of an adventure than just playing with clay.  These materials, in one way or another, produce a challenge to overcome by exercising great care.  With Super Sculpey temperature is a problem for working with most standard keycaps, Apoxy Sculpt uses toxic chemicals to harden, and nitrocellulose paint produces fumes which make most people feel pretty terrible.  Like I mentioned earlier the more knowledge one has about their medium the less it will harm person or project with just a bit of care.

Part 2 Mold Making

Interesting sculptures are just the beginning and all of the mold-making ideas I had considered were ready to be tested.  There are two kinds of molds as far as Im concerned for this application which are known as single, and two part molds.  A single mold takes the least time to make, and it is technically the least complicated to implement.  The single mold is also easy to destroy for a number of reasons.



The reasons to avoid single molds for keycaps are only ones I can conceptualize.  I have spent no man moments, minutes, or hours practicing key-craft with this technique.

I am primarily concerned with demolding.  Demolding is the act of removing your finished subject from the mold.  Most single molds are open backed or single sprue* and used to make candles, soap, pendants, or set props.  I just dont see this technique as being practical for making keycaps.

Being a two-part mold man I can say a lot about them a whole lot.  I used to think about two part molds during my breaks at work, while spending time with my fianc, meals, and sometimes in my dreams.  There was always room for improvement or a new method to ensure success until I accidentally made the best 2 part mold for my application after acquiring a pressure system.

When you make a 2 part mold it is cast in two stages and one or both parts may contain a sprue*.  The first stage captures a part of the subject, and once it cures the mold is flipped over with the subject still inside the mold.  After the mold is turned over a release agent is applied and another layer of molding material is poured to cast the 2nd part of the subject.  When I cast two part molds I capture the top of the key and then the bottom.  Capturing the bottom last ensures that the connecting joint is at the bottom of the key. The joint at which the molds connect can allow some liquid thermoset to escape and if that buildup occurs at the bottom of the key there is very little work in cleaning up the cast figure.



I will detail the methodology behind my current molding system once it proves effective for long enough.  So far, at the time of writing, out of about 7 casts 4 have come out without any visible defect.  There are a number of variables that cause blemishes in cast plastic, and once I narrow down the cause I can determine if the molding needs to change.

*Sprue: The path by which liquid fill enters and air escapes a mold.

Part 3: Casting

With a proper two part mold made from a proper subject I have been able to produce great casts.  The process of refining these casts involved a lot of theory.  At first I started with a two piece mold, measuring cups, and a pourable thermoset.  The resulting cast greatly varied based on the mold design.  Theres a lot of experience which developed this understanding, and to help communicate my findings I will make sure to list them as simple theories.

Theory #1: The materials and tools available with which to cast thermosets will determine the shape, dimensions, and sprue locations of the mold.

Before making my master molds with pressure equipment it took me 5-6 molds before I had a working system for successful hand-poured casts.  It is also far easier to capture simple shapes and cast them with a hand-poured mold than it is something complex like my hand-e-caps.

If one were to work with a mold and hand pouring system I would recommend a low viscosity opaque urethane plastic such as Smooth-on 320/Task 3.  Because making a mold is also a form of casting I would recommend the same.  Smooth-on makes OOMOO RTV silicone which is great for hand pouring, and platinum cure silicone known as Mold Star.  There are other manufacturers of plastic resins, and molding rubbers but Smooth-on is based out of Easton Pennsylvania which is local and makes shipping a smooth process.

To help with understanding of viscosity here is a chart of terms/measurements for viscosity.
Approximate Viscosities of Common Materials
(At Room Temperature-70F) *
Material   Viscosity in Centipoise
Water   1 cps
Milk   3 cps
SAE 10 Motor Oil   85-140 cps
SAE 20 Motor Oil   140-420 cps
SAE 30 Motor Oil   420-650 cps
SAE 40 Motor Oil   650-900 cps
Castrol Oil   1,000 cps
Karo Syrup   5,000 cps
Honey   10,000 cps
Chocolate   25,000 cps
Ketchup   50,000 cps
Mustard   70,000 cps
Sour Cream   100,000 cps
Peanut Butter   250,000 cps
http://www.vp-scientific.com/Viscosity_Tables.htm

With my experience and a little bit of research Ive learned a bit about my thermoset of choice, urethane plastics.  To better help people understand what Ive learned below is a point summary of useful information.
-   Liquid urethane plastics are A/B mixture thermosets which generate their own heat using a chemical reaction resulting in a cured solid.
-   Curing urethane thermosets are affected by atmospheric conditions including but not limited to temperature, humidity, and pressure.
-   The quality of a urethane thermoset cure can be enhanced by a post-cure process.  This process is usually a heat treatment @ 150 deg F.  Time and temperature for post-cures are detailed in material technical sheets.  Please read your technical sheets.  Do not under any circumstance post cure in an oven used for food.  You will poison yourself.
-   Clear urethane plastics and opaque urethane plastics may react with the addition of chemically suspended plastic/dye based pigments.  Reactions include but are not limited to the production of additional gasses.
-   Opaque urethanes are significantly less toxic and have lower surface tensions than clear urethanes.  With hand pouring techniques an opaque urethane will produce better results.
-   Chemical sensitivity to parts A/B of urethanes and silicones are common and can be prevented with proper safety wear.  E.g. liquid proof gloves, filtration breather, safety goggles, and long leg/long sleeve clothes.
-   Thermosets vary in cure-time and pot life.  The trend of thermosets is that the longer the cure-time/pot life the lower the shrinkage.  I find it very hard to work with quick set urethanes as the slightest mistake will waste time and material.

Theory #2:  When creating a finished product the viscosity, surface tension, and additives of/to liquid thermosets will ultimately determine the need for additional tools.

When starting out I purchased Smooth-Cast 325 which is low viscosity, but the surface tension of the liquid would impede off-gassing.  The air mixed into the A/B solution would suspend and any of that air would expand once poured into the mold once the urethane began to cure as a result of its thermoset reaction.  Due to the high surface tension of this material any oxygen which was in the mold and became trapped would have to be fished out.  I used a thin metal tube or straw prodded into mold crevasses to extract trapped air.  This additional step in a hand pouring process will not work with a mixed thermoset pot life under under 5 minutes.  Smooth-Cast 325 has a 3 minute pot life, and every cast I made with hand-pouring failed.  I could also not have used a vacuum degassing chamber as it would have taken too much time to degass.  The material was most likely best for open back single-piece molds or very thick molds.  If a thicker mold were rolled/turned during its curing process bubbles would have travelled into the center only to be captured.  If it is not yet obvious theres just too much to be considered when choosing materials/methods, and hand pouring will create a challenge for anyone making keycaps without additional tools.

Tools used in casting and their function,

Filling syringe: This tool is the best means by which to fill parts of a mold with great control.

Vacuum chamber:  A vacuum treating of silicone/urethane before pouring will result in less cast defects.  This solution requires a vacuum pump to function.

Pressure Pot: Pressurized casting is a process which pulverizes trapped air, and forces liquid into places air pockets would normally create a void in the finished product.  This solution requires a pressurized air pump to achieve pressure.

Gram Scale: 90% of casting resins are mixed in ratio by weight.  Scales measure weight.  Zip zop boom.

Measuring cups:  Buy this stuff from a resin supply place.  They make these cups out of materials which will not contaminate liquid plastics and rubbers.

After acquiring a pressure pot and playing with a bunch of Smooth-ons available stock of plastics and rubbers I have been able to work out a mold and shopping list to go forward in making 99-100% defect free casts.  Id be happy to discuss my process in great detail with anyone who is hitting a brick wall, but there are just some things I will not detail with everyone.  I have a limited understanding, and I believe that anyone reading this and asking the right questions will determine what works best for them and their project.  To summarize any novice caster will benefit from my two theories, and should be able to grow considerably with information contained in this post.

Theory #1: The materials and tools available with which to cast thermosets will determine the shape, dimensions, and sprue locations of the mold.
Theory #2:  When creating a finished product the viscosity, surface tension, and additives of/to liquid thermosets will ultimately determine the need for additional tools.
« Last Edit: Tue, 15 July 2014, 12:04:56 by Binge »
60% keyboards, 100% of the time.

"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline Badwrench

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 18:32:17 »
Sweet!

wut. i'd buy a ****ty IBM board for that green V2

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 18:40:08 »
Dibs!! Do want!!!! :eek:

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 19:06:47 »
Awwww yeah. That looks so cool. How'd you get the mold to have such good detail?
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Offline CommunistWitchDr

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 19:10:40 »
Awwww yeah. That looks so cool. How'd you get the mold to have such good detail?

Who knows, maybe it was hand made.

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 27 July 2013, 19:23:36 »
Awwww yeah. That looks so cool. How'd you get the mold to have such good detail?

It's pre-cast at this point.  It is a resin based epoxy, and it's finally set up and hard.

60% keyboards, 100% of the time.

"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline mkawa

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 10:40:12 »
bwahahaha. i keep popping over to this tab and cracking up every time.

make a mold! i want one!

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Offline UniClown

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #7 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 10:53:19 »
Made from 100% ground baby hands?

Offline MOZ

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 10:56:02 »
I want to key-five my keyboard!

Offline linziyi

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 13:12:58 »
Amazing...
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Offline Sifo

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 13:17:01 »
This will go perfectly with my dongs.......................................
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #12 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 13:37:06 »
oh hi there Sifo!



Care to be the first to buy a Binge-face and help fund this project?
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Offline mkawa

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 13:52:23 »
ahahahaha
sifo has to be the first.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #14 on: Sun, 28 July 2013, 15:51:54 »
Three carvings made for the supporters!



*UPDATE*



*UPDATE 2*



Final Update!

« Last Edit: Mon, 29 July 2013, 21:11:38 by Binge »
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"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #15 on: Tue, 30 July 2013, 08:55:19 »
Update!  Round 1 of fundraising is almost complete and I'll be able to buy casting materials by mid-week!  This is awesome!  Interest will keep me making binge-face caps for a while too.  The process is very fun :)


60% keyboards, 100% of the time.

"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #16 on: Tue, 30 July 2013, 09:52:54 »
Update!  Round 1 of fundraising is almost complete and I'll be able to buy casting materials by mid-week!  This is awesome!  Interest will keep me making binge-face caps for a while too.  The process is very fun :)


Show Image


The third one from the left should be called 'fist type', looks like somebody punched a face haha

Binge these are amazing!!

Offline Thimplum

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #17 on: Tue, 30 July 2013, 10:22:02 »
Cool, but creepy...
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #18 on: Tue, 30 July 2013, 21:37:30 »
Cool, but creepy...

Ask and ye shall receive!





+1




« Last Edit: Wed, 31 July 2013, 01:04:47 by Binge »
60% keyboards, 100% of the time.

"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline neoezekiel

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #19 on: Wed, 31 July 2013, 14:10:16 »
This is going to give me nightmares, great sculpting though. What resin did you use? It reminds me of teh 2 part long set I used to use for sculpting 40k minis, it was a 2 part red/white made by the same people who do GreenStuff which is a 2 part blue/yellow.
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #20 on: Wed, 31 July 2013, 19:37:43 »
This is going to give me nightmares, great sculpting though. What resin did you use? It reminds me of teh 2 part long set I used to use for sculpting 40k minis, it was a 2 part red/white made by the same people who do GreenStuff which is a 2 part blue/yellow.

It's part white/flesh and it's called Apoxie Sculpt.  It is an epoxy "clay" but really a resin.
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"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #21 on: Wed, 31 July 2013, 19:51:19 »
These are brilliant! Such good execution, and I love how unique every cap is, with so much character.  Most creative work!
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Offline Badwrench

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #22 on: Thu, 01 August 2013, 20:30:50 »
Oh man am I loving these.  The open mouth one is awesome.  Really digging the buck tooth gentlemen  :thumb:

wut. i'd buy a ****ty IBM board for that green V2

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #23 on: Sat, 03 August 2013, 23:04:26 »
Some small updates :)





Ohhhhh damn what is that last one???
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Offline mkawa

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #24 on: Sun, 04 August 2013, 01:47:20 »
YESSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #25 on: Mon, 05 August 2013, 00:56:30 »
Oh hey Nigel, what's going on??



HAhaha!  oh Nigel you are too kind.  I wa- What the hell Nigel?!?!



Oh god... why?!?!

60% keyboards, 100% of the time.

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Offline rowdy

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #26 on: Mon, 05 August 2013, 01:05:00 »
Oh hey Nigel, what's going on??

Show Image


HAhaha!  oh Nigel you are too kind.  I wa- What the hell Nigel?!?!

Show Image


Oh god... why?!?!

Show Image


That's a good one! :)
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But thats incorrect. Its in HHKBs slogan, but when Americas cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

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Offline Lu_e

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #27 on: Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:43:56 »
LOL that zombie hand...

...so you are molding/casting them?
MX

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #28 on: Tue, 06 August 2013, 14:21:25 »
Yes, I am in the process of casting hands :)  The molds are done
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #29 on: Tue, 06 August 2013, 23:36:38 »
In the spirit of domo and since I have made a lot of talk without putting up much info/goods... here are my molds and resulting proto cast hand-e-cap!

So when I started this I knew nothing about casting and molding keycaps... hell I had never sculpted before :D

Maybe a few people would enjoy a few ideas swimming around, and so I decided I was going to learn how to make keycaps with relative proficiency!

Step 1 - Make a design. [FAILED]

Guyez I'd say I failed.  For a few weeks I was sitting at work doodling unicorns pooping on leprechauns before the hand-e-caps even come to mind.  I've always wanted a high-five'in cap but I forgot about it...

Step 2 - get a basic key to mod.

First stop? signature plastics!  There could have been a cheaper solution, but to my luck I had spent money on the gamer profile caps from SP :D  They didn't work for me so I had flat bases for sculptures... coool :)

Step 3 - Buy materials.

I bought polymer clay, epoxy clay, and a number of other bawsome materials until I settled on Apoxie Sculpt and Super Sculpty.  Apoxie Sculpt being an epoxy clay, and Super Sculpty being a really sick polymer clay.

Step 4 - Sculpt~

Yeah it happened and so did the hand-e-cap.  This needed to be a mold and cast.  Which brings me to step 5

Step 5 - Use the plastic to buy plastic.

Smooth-on should be a lil bit more rich because I have NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING.  Like Domo I've done a bit of research, but I decided on a different route.  For one I can not afford any machinery to make this process easier/more clean.

This brought me to a mold casting material I know many people use.  Smooth-on oomoo 30.  Screw Mold Max because measuring is for people with impulse control.  It would have been minutes until I just dumped everything I had into the mixing bucket and tried to work from there.  Oomoo 30 is a 30A hardness silicon rubber when cured that comes in a low viscosity A-B mixture and has a pot time of 30 minutes.  I have learned that pot time is very important for the letting of bubbles.

What I failed to realize in my haste to get to bingeing is that my casting material Smooth Cast 325 was a horrible choice for not having a pressure chamber.  This stuff has a 2 minute pot time.  Which is great because it cures really quickly, but unfortunately that leads to a lot of trapped air in the mold.  By the time the material is poured into the small mold bubbles were unable to escape from the now thickening plastic. :(  I had to buy Smooth Cast 327.  It's on the way.

Step 6 - Fiddle with it.

2 molds later I have this.





Which has produced this...



There are visible bubbles in the hand but none in the stem which is better than a clear hand and a bubbly stem IMO!

For the first keycap to come from my improved mold I am really pleased with the results and for those out there itching to get one this means I'll be making quite a few over the weekend :)  The 327 should be here by then which will make this much easier.

There has not been much instruction here, but feel free to ask any questions about the project and my results :)
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"What the hell Jimmy?!  It was ruined before you even put it up there with your decrepit fingers."

Offline Photekq

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #30 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 12:50:33 »
Were upper class brits your inspiration for most of these? :))

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #31 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 12:53:54 »
hahaha, well actually Bunnylake was my first for R1 to inquire.  Because of that I offered to do a series of caps for him.  They are Bunny Gentlemen caps and each is numbered 1/3 2/3/ 3/3 on the underside of the cap.

The Nigel cap was really easy for me to make with the new material (epoxy clay) because I had so much experience making those mustached rabbits xD
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #32 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 21:04:04 »
Sometimes thist stuff comes out a bit foggeh, it might be my A:B ratio measuring :O


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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #33 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 22:48:06 »
ahhhhhhnnnnndddd fail

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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #34 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 23:17:55 »
wow this is like... 90% perfect :D  Go lavender shiny cap!



WHAT WHAT WHAT?!?!?!?!

« Last Edit: Wed, 07 August 2013, 23:49:40 by Binge »
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Offline rowdy

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #35 on: Wed, 07 August 2013, 23:30:48 »
Just askin' for a hi 5!
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But thats incorrect. Its in HHKBs slogan, but when Americas cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

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Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #36 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:10:59 »
I call this one Jammed >.>



 I wonder if I will find out how to make this easier?

btw just broke a mold :D  back to da drawin board
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Offline esoomenona

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #37 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:14:38 »
Needs thicker bottom cap!

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #38 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:18:05 »
would you care to explain?
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Offline esoomenona

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #39 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:21:05 »
Instead of using a SP cap as the basis for the mold of the bottom, you should use a thicker cap, such as a Cherry one.

Offline Thimplum

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #40 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:01:57 »
You should donate this to bunny's collection :)
TP4 FOR ADMIN 2013

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #41 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:24:00 »
Instead of using a SP cap as the basis for the mold of the bottom, you should use a thicker cap, such as a Cherry one.

That would require me to re-make my entire sculpture. :(

You should donate this to bunny's collection :)

If I did that I would not be able to give them to the people who paid for them :(


Why can't I please anyone T-T
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Offline esoomenona

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #42 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:34:55 »
Why can't I please anyone T-T

It's okay. There are always other ways of pleasing... ;)

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #43 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:38:13 »
Moose jobs are dangerous jobs.

You job the moose?  You get the whole rack  :eek:
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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #44 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:46:28 »


A time-line.
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Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #45 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 10:55:50 »
Show Image


A time-line.

WHOA!! 6 hand-e-caps for only $5!!! :eek:

Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #46 on: Thu, 08 August 2013, 23:52:49 »
Who tells me to do these things?




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Offline Binge

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #47 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 01:16:32 »
The fun just keeps on comin :)

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Offline TheFlyingRaccoon

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #48 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 01:21:55 »
WOW  :eek: These look amazing. I couldn't see their true beauty in the live stream  :p
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Offline Dubsgalore

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Re: Hand-e-Cap
« Reply #49 on: Fri, 09 August 2013, 01:50:14 »
rastah man ;)