[GB][CLOSED] LeandreN Round 4, 60% kits, HHKB and winkeyless plates

[LeandreN]

What would the shipping cost to Canada for a plate and PCB be?

15$

[LeandreN]

I'm back. Let me know if you have any questions. 7 days left.

[Tobi45]

Hi Leandren,
I got a question regarding the white plate.
If I'm not mistaken it's a white anodized aluminium plate? How does that work, did they finally come up with a way to anodize white? I guess you don't have a picture of a sample, so I know what'd await me?

Kind regards,
Tobias

[Bumbibear]

I'm back. Let me know if you have any questions. 7 days left.

Will I be able to mount the plate mounted 65g zealios on the universal plate in this GB? Or should I order the PCB Mount switches?

[LeandreN]

Hi Leandren,
I got a question regarding the white plate.
If I'm not mistaken it's a white anodized aluminium plate? How does that work, did they finally come up with a way to anodize white? I guess you don't have a picture of a sample, so I know what'd await me?

Kind regards,
Tobias

Very light silver anodizing. It won't be completely white.

I will try to get you a sample picture.

[LeandreN]

I'm back. Let me know if you have any questions. 7 days left.

Will I be able to mount the plate mounted 65g zealios on the universal plate in this GB? Or should I order the PCB Mount switches?

Plate mounted will work very good.

[Jumie]

Can I buy plate only?

[LeandreN]

Can I buy plate only?

Yes

[Diokhan]

9 more orange pcb's to go!

[TalkingTree]

9 more orange pcb's to go!

Technically, based on LeandreN's last statements, we are good already; I suspect he's gonna buy 10 for himself to sell later on.

[Jumie]

Joined

[LeandreN]

News. The Winkeyless plate will have ISO & ANSI enter support, 2,75u support(in addition to 1,75u + 1u) it will have ISO shift support and ANSI shift support. The same with the HHKB plate, so now you will have a lot of options here.

TLDR: merging ISO & ANSI designs on the winkeyless/HHKB plates. HHKB will have ISO enter support.

[TalkingTree]

ISO left shift on HHKB was all I wanted. Thanks a bunch mate, you're the best.

[need]

Great news !

[Dernubenfrieken]

News. The Winkeyless plate will have ISO & ANSI enter support, 2,75u support(in addition to 1,75u + 1u) it will have ISO shift support and ANSI shift support. The same with the HHKB plate, so now you will have a lot of options here.

TLDR: merging ISO & ANSI designs on the winkeyless/HHKB plates. HHKB will have ISO enter support.

Wait, so the plate now has universal style cutouts?

[LeandreN]

News. The Winkeyless plate will have ISO & ANSI enter support, 2,75u support(in addition to 1,75u + 1u) it will have ISO shift support and ANSI shift support. The same with the HHKB plate, so now you will have a lot of options here.

TLDR: merging ISO & ANSI designs on the winkeyless/HHKB plates. HHKB will have ISO enter support.

Wait, so the plate now has universal style cutouts?

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

[soilheart]

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

I think saying "no difference" is taking it a little too far. I haven't joined yet, but I've been thinking about picking up a WKL plate, and one of the main reasons why is that I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate. The bottom row is the most important IMO, so the shared enter doesn't make any difference to me really (as row 3/4 isn't as visible). I don't like the idea of an universal shift cutout though, as I'm afraid it'll visible between the WKL gap, which could ruin it a little bit for me...

[Dernubenfrieken]

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

I think saying "no difference" is taking it a little too far. I haven't joined yet, but I've been thinking about picking up a WKL plate, and one of the main reasons why is that I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate. The bottom row is the most important IMO, so the shared enter doesn't make any difference to me really (as row 3/4 isn't as visible). I don't like the idea of an universal shift cutout though, as I'm afraid it'll visible between the WKL gap, which could ruin it a little bit for me...

I have to agree with this. I'm not the biggest fan of the gaps in plates between switches, and was planning on using this build with some experimental backlighting and not sure if this will lead to inconsistent lighting. And I know a visible gap for the shiftcut would make this a deal breaker.

[jdcarpe]

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

I think saying "no difference" is taking it a little too far. I haven't joined yet, but I've been thinking about picking up a WKL plate, and one of the main reasons why is that I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate. The bottom row is the most important IMO, so the shared enter doesn't make any difference to me really (as row 3/4 isn't as visible). I don't like the idea of an universal shift cutout though, as I'm afraid it'll visible between the WKL gap, which could ruin it a little bit for me...

I have to agree with this. I'm not the biggest fan of the gaps in plates between switches, and was planning on using this build with some experimental backlighting and not sure if this will lead to inconsistent lighting. And I know a visible gap for the shiftcut would make this a deal breaker.

Unfortunately, the participants of this GB can't have it both ways. There are EITHER multiple layout options for those who need them, OR there is one fixed layout where you won't see the cutout if you look at it at a certain angle. Which is more beneficial to the participants as a whole?

[Dernubenfrieken]

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

I think saying "no difference" is taking it a little too far. I haven't joined yet, but I've been thinking about picking up a WKL plate, and one of the main reasons why is that I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate. The bottom row is the most important IMO, so the shared enter doesn't make any difference to me really (as row 3/4 isn't as visible). I don't like the idea of an universal shift cutout though, as I'm afraid it'll visible between the WKL gap, which could ruin it a little bit for me...

I have to agree with this. I'm not the biggest fan of the gaps in plates between switches, and was planning on using this build with some experimental backlighting and not sure if this will lead to inconsistent lighting. And I know a visible gap for the shiftcut would make this a deal breaker.

Unfortunately, the participants of this GB can't have it both ways. There are EITHER multiple layout options for those who need them, OR there is one fixed layout where you won't see the cutout if you look at it at a certain angle. Which is more beneficial to the participants as a whole?

I mean, there are universal plates in the GB too. The HHKB ones are specifically so you don't have gaps where there are missing bottom row switches. That issue is a bit more extreme aestethically, but its still an option for ISO users to simply buy those.

[LeandreN]

For some of the places, yes. This makes no difference for those that wanted the base layout whatsoever.

I think saying "no difference" is taking it a little too far. I haven't joined yet, but I've been thinking about picking up a WKL plate, and one of the main reasons why is that I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate. The bottom row is the most important IMO, so the shared enter doesn't make any difference to me really (as row 3/4 isn't as visible). I don't like the idea of an universal shift cutout though, as I'm afraid it'll visible between the WKL gap, which could ruin it a little bit for me...

I have to agree with this. I'm not the biggest fan of the gaps in plates between switches, and was planning on using this build with some experimental backlighting and not sure if this will lead to inconsistent lighting. And I know a visible gap for the shiftcut would make this a deal breaker.

Unfortunately, the participants of this GB can't have it both ways. There are EITHER multiple layout options for those who need them, OR there is one fixed layout where you won't see the cutout if you look at it at a certain angle. Which is more beneficial to the participants as a whole?

I mean, there are universal plates in the GB too. The HHKB ones are specifically so you don't have gaps where there are missing bottom row switches. That issue is a bit more extreme aestethically, but its still an option for ISO users.

I mean, I will have ISO shift support on the HHKB plate as I said in the beginning, so there will be very little difference by adding right shift support too. You don't really see it from a normal angle

[jdcarpe]

I mean, there are universal plates in the GB too. The HHKB ones are specifically so you don't have gaps where there are missing bottom row switches. That issue is a bit more extreme aestethically, but its still an option for ISO users to simply buy those.

There still are not gaps. It will be difficult to see the universal cutout gaps with keycaps installed, unless you are really looking for them.

[LeandreN]

Low angle. You can see the stabiliser spot.

[Dernubenfrieken]

Show Image

Low angle. You can see the stabiliser spot.

I believe he's referring to the right shift, where the universal cutout is much larger than two switches for the HHKB split shift.

[LeandreN]

[Porkins]

I don't want to out myself as a complete noob or anything, but this is my first time assembling. Is there a lot of soldering that is going to need to be done? Also, what all should I need to purchase to finish out the build?

I have already purchased a 60% case and some zealio switches. Am I missing anything?

[soilheart]

Haha, sorry for creating such a discussion and getting LeandreN all photo:y, was not my intention.

What I'm saying:

I do find the gaps in my current universal plate annoying sometimes. It's mainly noticeable on the bottom row, both because the white PCB and the backlighting bleeding through the unused mounting holes. But I also notice it on the shift, mostly when enabling the RGB-leds on my b.face, as the mounting holes in the PCB shines through between the keys. This is very much noticeable between the left ISO shift and the ISO key ("<>"-key).

Because of this I was a fan of the split ISO/ANSI WKL plates as I hoped that would solve both problems. (To be blunt, the HHKB-plate doesn't matter to me, as I wasn't going to get one). Making more switch placements universal and making more possibility for backlight (and PCB) bleed makes me unsure though.

So sorry for not being clear the first time, and I hope I didn't offend anyone, if so, sorry once again.

Picture showing the backlight-"issue": http://imgur.com/EvUmvRm

Unfortunately, the participants of this GB can't have it both ways. There are EITHER multiple layout options for those who need them, OR there is one fixed layout where you won't see the cutout if you look at it at a certain angle. Which is more beneficial to the participants as a whole?

I agree, I'm just saying my opinion on why I may not get a plate because of this change. I was kinda assuming/hoping that people with special requirements would go wit the universal plates, and that the other plates would be as clean as possible.

[LeandreN]

I don't want to out myself as a complete noob or anything, but this is my first time assembling. Is there a lot of soldering that is going to need to be done? Also, what all should I need to purchase to finish out the build?

I have already purchased a 60% case and some zealio switches. Am I missing anything?

You will need some keycaps and a cable. There is not much soldering as you only have to do the switches.

[ideus]

Show Image

Low angle. You can see the stabiliser spot.

It is just a visual artifact, or is the "4" key taller?

[Porkins]

I don't want to out myself as a complete noob or anything, but this is my first time assembling. Is there a lot of soldering that is going to need to be done? Also, what all should I need to purchase to finish out the build?

I have already purchased a 60% case and some zealio switches. Am I missing anything?

You will need some keycaps and a cable. There is not much soldering as you only have to do the switches.

Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply.

[Porkins]

I don't want to out myself as a complete noob or anything, but this is my first time assembling. Is there a lot of soldering that is going to need to be done? Also, what all should I need to purchase to finish out the build?

I have already purchased a 60% case and some zealio switches. Am I missing anything?

You will need some keycaps and a cable. There is not much soldering as you only have to do the switches.

Woops double posted.

[soilheart]

Oh, and with all said above, I think a simple picture (as on the first page) on how the new plates would look would be helpful for us concerned

[LeandreN]

Show Image

Low angle. You can see the stabiliser spot.

It is just a visual artifact, or is the "4" key taller?

Not properly placed on the switch.

[TalkingTree]

I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate.

I gotta say, the universal plate is way too universal, but for that price I can't really ask for anything better. I got myself some quotes for lasercut and CNC plates in Italy and a single plate would cost over € 40.

[soilheart]

I don't really like the gaps between switches in my current universal plate.

I gotta say, the universal plate is way too universal, but for that price I can't really ask for anything better. I got myself some quotes for lasercut and CNC plates in Italy and a single plate would cost over € 40.

Yeah, what it lacks in "style" it makes up for in versatility and price, clearly. Which is why I'm (still) a little hyped on the WKL plates as they have the style the universal plates are lacking IMO, and without having a higher price.

[johuu]

FYI Tex 60% cases back in stock at mechanicalkeyboards.com. Orange!!! 

[Xiro7]

FYI Tex 60% cases back in stock at mechanicalkeyboards.com. Orange!!! 

Awesome! I have the orange PCB + carbon fiber plate from this GB, so that orange Tex Alu case will look great with that.

[Metr0]

Do the PCBs have SMD components pre-soldered? (Diodes etc)

[rfja]

Placed an order!
Will I get a confirmation email or smthg?

[Diokhan]

Placed an order!
Will I get a confirmation email or smthg?

IS IT ORANGE?!

[TalkingTree]

Do the PCBs have SMD components pre-soldered? (Diodes etc)

Just to clarify
there are 3 LED spots on the keyboard
1x SMD switch leds
1x normal switch leds
1x side/under leds
The presoldered resistors cover the side/under leds spots and one of the top spots.
No LEDs come presoldered.

Resistors and diodes are presoldered. LEDs don't.

[TalkingTree]

Placed an order!
Will I get a confirmation email or smthg?

You'll receive invoice when the ordering phase is over.

[flob_ert]

I have ordering regrets... I didn't order enough  )

Email sent 

[ideus]

Do the PCBs have SMD components pre-soldered? (Diodes etc)

Yes they do, only switches and LEDs will have to be soldered.

[spanyam]

So I'm having a debate on whether I should stick with the black PCB w/ white plate I ordered, or if I should go orange and white. I plan to put this in a wood case with the 1976 keyset, so orange might be a better fitting piece. But then again, with a plate on top, will the PCB even show? What do you guys think?

[pichu23]

So I'm having a debate on whether I should stick with the black PCB w/ white plate I ordered, or if I should go orange and white. I plan to put this in a wood case with the 1976 keyset, so orange might be a better fitting piece. But then again, with a plate on top, will the PCB even show? What do you guys think?

Personally, I'm going for a black PCB with a red plate. I have an alu case that is greyish so I think the contrast would be pretty nice.
Orange might be nice for your case. But I'm just picturing it in my head lol.

[cryptokey]

In for PCB + Black universal plate. 
I love the HHKB look, but it kills my soul that I really can't use it with i3wm and irssi. 

[spanyam]

So I'm having a debate on whether I should stick with the black PCB w/ white plate I ordered, or if I should go orange and white. I plan to put this in a wood case with the 1976 keyset, so orange might be a better fitting piece. But then again, with a plate on top, will the PCB even show? What do you guys think?

Personally, I'm going for a black PCB with a red plate. I have an alu case that is greyish so I think the contrast would be pretty nice.
Orange might be nice for your case. But I'm just picturing it in my head lol.

Yeah I was considering that too. I think I will stick with the order as it is now.

[kaeeeede]

So just to clarify, I can just solder RGB LEDs on the board and I'll be g2g? I'm pretty sure I get it but I want to be super duper sure, you know?

[LeandreN]

Great picture of the CF plate by Axtran