Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3555083 times)

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Offline nubbinator

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6550 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 23:59:06 »
Which color way for caps was/is the Nathan set?

White/Trans Orange Alphas, Orange/White mods.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6551 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 00:04:12 »
That's what I thought.  I got a cap from that set and I was going to put it non the wife's Filco.  Just wanted to make sure I had the right name for the set.
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Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6552 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 03:42:27 »
I often see on keycap7bitGB in other name ctrl,alt.etc is meta,super,hyper.etc that's name from old computer?
i want know the others name so far i just find meta=alt,hyper=?,super=?.etc
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Offline dorkvader

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6553 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 09:43:58 »
I often see on keycap7bitGB in other name ctrl,alt.etc is meta,super,hyper.etc that's name from old computer?
i want know the others name so far i just find meta=alt,hyper=?,super=?.etc
"Super"  is the name for the windows key (on PC) or command key (on mac). "meta" and "hyper" and the rest were taken from the Symbolics keyboard, or space cadet keyboard. 7bit's round4 was partially based on those designs.

Since many keyboards are programmable: you can assign them to whatever.


Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6554 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 18:11:29 »
Whats the actuation force of a Model F and a Model M? F seems lighter than M but I want to know the specifics

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6555 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 18:46:22 »
Whats the actuation force of a Model F and a Model M? F seems lighter than M but I want to know the specifics

They're both about 70-75.
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Offline Dreamre

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6556 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 22:12:28 »
What are the primary differences between a HID Liberation Device vs a Pegasus Hoof?

Thanks.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6557 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 22:19:53 »
What are the primary differences between a HID Liberation Device vs a Pegasus Hoof?

Thanks.

HID Liberation Device uses ATMega 32u4 controller, and Pegasus' Hoof uses 32u2.
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Offline alosec

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6558 on: Sun, 02 March 2014, 23:35:47 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys

Offline Candyflip

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6559 on: Mon, 03 March 2014, 08:07:40 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys
I think that white/beige boards tend to catch less dust or at least less visible dust, but not sure about the RF the material of which is made of matters too.
This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before.

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6560 on: Mon, 03 March 2014, 15:31:26 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys

It's the same amount, but it's more obvious because the keyboard is white.
QFR | MJ2 TKL | "Bulgogiboard" (Keycon 104) | ctrl.alt x GON 60% | TGR Alice | Mira SE #29 | Mira SE #34 | Revo One | z | Keycult No. 1 | AIS65 | First CW87 prototype | Mech27v1 | Camp C225 | Duck Orion V1 | LZ CLS sxh | Geon Frog TKL | Hiney TKL One | Geon Glare TKL



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Offline rowdy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6561 on: Mon, 03 March 2014, 15:54:16 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys

Probably collects the dark dust, just as darker keyboards collect the light dust.  Consider what the most prevalent colour dust you have in your environment.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

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Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6562 on: Mon, 03 March 2014, 18:11:57 »
Is the white HHKB pro2 a true white, or is more of a beige like the white Filco?
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
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OTD Koala:  62g Old MX-Blacks   |   LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
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Offline dndlmx

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6563 on: Mon, 03 March 2014, 18:19:27 »
Nevermind...
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 March 2014, 17:40:48 by dnix »

Offline ComradeSniper

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6564 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 01:17:11 »
Is the white HHKB pro2 a true white, or is more of a beige like the white Filco?

It definitely looks like a true white to me, but my friends often tell me it looks like it "came from the 80's"...

Offline rowdy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6565 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 03:06:39 »
Is the white HHKB pro2 a true white, or is more of a beige like the white Filco?

Nope.

These pictures are a comparison (with and without flash) between my HHKB Pro 2 and KeyCool 87 (which is whiter than white).

56238-0

56240-1
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

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Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6566 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 03:12:31 »
Is the white HHKB pro2 a true white, or is more of a beige like the white Filco?

Nope.

These pictures are a comparison (with and without flash) between my HHKB Pro 2 and KeyCool 87 (which is whiter than white).

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Okay so it's a off-white. Very cool. That's what I wanted to know.  Thanks for the pics :)
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
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OTD Koala:  62g Old MX-Blacks   |   LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
WTB/WTS/WTT ---->
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Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6567 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 03:21:41 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys
I think that white/beige boards tend to catch less dust or at least less visible dust, but not sure about the RF the material of which is made of matters too.

I totally agree. My white/beige Filco shows less dust then my black boards.
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
More
OTD Koala:  62g Old MX-Blacks   |   LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
WTB/WTS/WTT ---->
More

Offline rowdy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6568 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 03:25:12 »
does the white realforce collect dust and dirt as easily as other white boards? really hate this but love white keys
I think that white/beige boards tend to catch less dust or at least less visible dust, but not sure about the RF the material of which is made of matters too.

I totally agree. My white/beige Filco shows less dust then my black boards.

Assuming that you're asking why (so we don't go too far off topic), that would probably be because you live in an area where the dust is predominantly lighter in colour.

If you live somewhere that the dust is darker, you would find a dark-coloured keyboard would show up more dust.
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ

Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6569 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:04:04 »
Ok, I've got a couple of questions;

1. Is there any other metal cases besides the Vortex ones that will fit a Filco MJ2?
2. Is it possible to get/find a winkeyless ISO TKL custom or winkeyless ANSI+ISO TKL custom? (Ansi left shift, ISO enter)
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Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6570 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:06:40 »
1. Is there any other metal cases besides the Vortex ones that will fit a Filco MJ2?
2. Is it possible to get/find a winkeyless ISO TKL custom or winkeyless ANSI+ISO TKL custom? (Ansi left shift, ISO enter)

1. This one comes to my mind: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34606.0
2. Not sure but I have never seen one.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6571 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:13:40 »
1. Is there any other metal cases besides the Vortex ones that will fit a Filco MJ2?
2. Is it possible to get/find a winkeyless ISO TKL custom or winkeyless ANSI+ISO TKL custom? (Ansi left shift, ISO enter)

1. This one comes to my mind: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34606.0
2. Not sure but I have never seen one.

Those MKC Alu cases will never be made again, to my knowledge. Possibly a Skeldon TKL or TEK-80 would fit, but AFAIK those will never be made either, and if they were, they would be VERY expensive. What type of case were you looking for, epzy, and what about the Vortex case do you not like?

You can do WKL ISO with Phantom, and also have the ANSI left shift if you want.
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 March 2014, 11:35:33 by jdcarpe »
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Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6572 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:18:47 »
1. Is there any other metal cases besides the Vortex ones that will fit a Filco MJ2?
2. Is it possible to get/find a winkeyless ISO TKL custom or winkeyless ANSI+ISO TKL custom? (Ansi left shift, ISO enter)

1. This one comes to my mind: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34606.0
2. Not sure but I have never seen one.

Those MKC Alu cases will never be made again, to my knowledge. Possibly a Skeldon TKL or TEK-80 would fit, but AFAIK those will never be made either, and if they were, they would be VERY expensive. What type of case were you looking for, ezpz, and what about the Vortex case do you not like?

You can do WKL ISO with Phantom, and also have the ANSI left shift if you want.

So if I find a full Phantom kit, I can get the WKL, ANSI+ISO layout I want? Which case can I get for such a board?

I'm not looking for a specific case, but I'd like a good looking and high quality one, for sub $300. I like the Vortex case personally, but I've heard both negative and positive things about it. I can get one for $160 shipped, but I'm not sure if I want to commit. If I commit it means I wont get my ideal layout which I already have mentioned.
FaceW ~ Duck Viper ~ Kishsaver ~ HHKB Pro 2 Cherry G81-3000SAU ~ Filco Majestouch 2 ~ GON NS NerD 60 HHKB ~ 360 Corsa (jk skam) ~ KMAC Happy (jk skam) ~ JD40 (jk skam)

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6573 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:26:18 »
So if I find a full Phantom kit, I can get the WKL, ANSI+ISO layout I want? Which case can I get for such a board?

I'm not looking for a specific case, but I'd like a good looking and high quality one, for sub $300. I like the Vortex case personally, but I've heard both negative and positive things about it. I can get one for $160 shipped, but I'm not sure if I want to commit. If I commit it means I wont get my ideal layout which I already have mentioned.

Yes, the Phantom PCB supports what you want, but you will have to get a custom plate made for that layout. The Phantom PCB will fit in Filco, QFR, PLU-87 cases, as well as that Vortex case. With the Vortex case, you'll have to use some kind of supports under the PCB, since it's designed to use the edge bends in the Filco plate to support the internals. The Vortex is probably the only alu case you're going to find aftermarket. Or you could go with a layered, laser cut metal "sandwich" style case, like the ones GON makes, using your custom layout. I can probably help you with that type of design, if you had somewhere to get the plates laser cut or machined.
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

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in memoriam

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Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6574 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:32:25 »
So if I find a full Phantom kit, I can get the WKL, ANSI+ISO layout I want? Which case can I get for such a board?

I'm not looking for a specific case, but I'd like a good looking and high quality one, for sub $300. I like the Vortex case personally, but I've heard both negative and positive things about it. I can get one for $160 shipped, but I'm not sure if I want to commit. If I commit it means I wont get my ideal layout which I already have mentioned.

Yes, the Phantom PCB supports what you want, but you will have to get a custom plate made for that layout. The Phantom PCB will fit in Filco, QFR, PLU-87 cases, as well as that Vortex case. With the Vortex case, you'll have to use some kind of supports under the PCB, since it's designed to use the edge bends in the Filco plate to support the internals. The Vortex is probably the only alu case you're going to find aftermarket. Or you could go with a layered, laser cut metal "sandwich" style case, like the ones GON makes, using your custom layout. I can probably help you with that type of design, if you had somewhere to get the plates laser cut or machined.

Thanks so much for the information & offering to help me with the design, jdcarpe! I will take some time and figure out what I want to do. I'm not in a hurry as I would need some more money if I would go the Phantom route. I think I will pick up one Vortex case regardless. :)

Oh, and I actually think GON's 'sandwich' cases look pretty neat. Definitely something I could see myself going for.

http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/89-thickbox_default/gon-ns-87-w-tuningassembly.jpg

GON NS 87, those look great.
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 March 2014, 09:37:39 by epzy »
FaceW ~ Duck Viper ~ Kishsaver ~ HHKB Pro 2 Cherry G81-3000SAU ~ Filco Majestouch 2 ~ GON NS NerD 60 HHKB ~ 360 Corsa (jk skam) ~ KMAC Happy (jk skam) ~ JD40 (jk skam)

Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6575 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 15:53:36 »
http://imgur.com/a/x8tF9

Is there something that can be added to this case + Poker 2 to make it heavier, if so what would that be? I'm asking for someone else.
FaceW ~ Duck Viper ~ Kishsaver ~ HHKB Pro 2 Cherry G81-3000SAU ~ Filco Majestouch 2 ~ GON NS NerD 60 HHKB ~ 360 Corsa (jk skam) ~ KMAC Happy (jk skam) ~ JD40 (jk skam)

Offline yicaoyimu

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6576 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 20:08:16 »
Does anyone know what resistor I need to get for face-W PCB? I know I need resistor with part number 0805 and 820 OHM for white LED but there are tons of different resistors on digikey that match.  :'(

EDIT: Never mind. A friend helped me out. Any resistor should work, as long as it's 0805 and the resistance is right. Other spec does not matter. (At least that is what I was told.)
« Last Edit: Tue, 04 March 2014, 20:18:34 by yicaoyimu »
KMAC2 - Matrix Lab 8XV2.0 - TGR Jane v2 CE - KBD8X MKII - Meridian - Matrix Lab Noah - Fallacy x2 - MGA Standard - Geon Frog mini - Amano - Ciel60 - Prime_Elise - Matrix Lab 6XV3.0 aka Corsa

Offline esoomenona

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6577 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 20:38:23 »
Your thread title is bad, and you should feel bad.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6578 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 20:41:10 »
http://imgur.com/a/x8tF9

Is there something that can be added to this case + Poker 2 to make it heavier, if so what would that be? I'm asking for someone else.

Replace the two layers in the middle that are just a ring around the edge with laser cut stainless.  That or if you really want some heft get some lead wheel weights from a tire shop, hammer them out flat on concrete with a good hammer and tape/glue them in.  Lead is very soft and should hammer out easily.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Dreamre

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6579 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 22:00:31 »
Does anyone have an updated KMAC2 programmer? The one I downloaded from http://www.listokei.com/keymapping/ doesn't have the layout for the KMAC 2. I tried using that, but the right ALT won't reprogram. I'm using this program as I want to program my LEDs.

Thanks!

Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6580 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 23:31:40 »
how to get rid PBT printed i've tried acetone fail no sandpaper.other way?
 :)
Logitech MK220 Colemak DH
SplitSyml by Moz BlacksMx fuk blacks

2/3 8.5pm                                          in de la my september month ya da all get my fukka "fake message"

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6581 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 23:36:25 »
how to get rid PBT printed i've tried acetone fail no sandpaper.other way?
 :)

If the keys are dye sublimation you will have to physically remove some plastic to do it.  Reason is, acetone does not affect PBT, and with the dye sublimation process the dye actually sets into the plastic so it is actually more than just a surface treatment.  Best bet would just be to deal with the legends until you can buy some blanks.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6582 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 23:41:32 »
Does anyone have an updated KMAC2 programmer? The one I downloaded from http://www.listokei.com/keymapping/ doesn't have the layout for the KMAC 2. I tried using that, but the right ALT won't reprogram. I'm using this program as I want to program my LEDs.

Thanks!

Try this maybe:  http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252
- Keyboards: LZ-GH (Jailhouse Blues)M65-a, MIRA SE, E8-V1, MOON TKL, CA66
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Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6583 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 23:46:40 »
If the keys are dye sublimation you will have to physically remove some plastic to do it.  Reason is, acetone does not affect PBT, and with the dye sublimation process the dye actually sets into the plastic so it is actually more than just a surface treatment.  Best bet would just be to deal with the legends until you can buy some blanks.
not dye printed,just laser engraving :)
Logitech MK220 Colemak DH
SplitSyml by Moz BlacksMx fuk blacks

2/3 8.5pm                                          in de la my september month ya da all get my fukka "fake message"

Offline Pacifist

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6584 on: Tue, 04 March 2014, 23:49:20 »
If the keys are dye sublimation you will have to physically remove some plastic to do it.  Reason is, acetone does not affect PBT, and with the dye sublimation process the dye actually sets into the plastic so it is actually more than just a surface treatment.  Best bet would just be to deal with the legends until you can buy some blanks.
not dye printed,just laser engraving :)

laser? I'd say sandpaper is only choice. Maybe high water pressure?

Offline yasuo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6585 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 00:05:15 »
If the keys are dye sublimation you will have to physically remove some plastic to do it.  Reason is, acetone does not affect PBT, and with the dye sublimation process the dye actually sets into the plastic so it is actually more than just a surface treatment.  Best bet would just be to deal with the legends until you can buy some blanks.
not dye printed,just laser engraving :)
laser? I'd say sandpaper is only choice. Maybe high water pressure?
Thanks
one way now,only sandpaper :confused: i hope not damage the surface
« Last Edit: Wed, 05 March 2014, 12:47:47 by yasuo »
Logitech MK220 Colemak DH
SplitSyml by Moz BlacksMx fuk blacks

2/3 8.5pm                                          in de la my september month ya da all get my fukka "fake message"

Offline epzy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6586 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 02:18:46 »
http://imgur.com/a/x8tF9

Is there something that can be added to this case + Poker 2 to make it heavier, if so what would that be? I'm asking for someone else.

Replace the two layers in the middle that are just a ring around the edge with laser cut stainless.  That or if you really want some heft get some lead wheel weights from a tire shop, hammer them out flat on concrete with a good hammer and tape/glue them in.  Lead is very soft and should hammer out easily.

Hmm, thanks! I'll see if he's willing to do any of those things.
FaceW ~ Duck Viper ~ Kishsaver ~ HHKB Pro 2 Cherry G81-3000SAU ~ Filco Majestouch 2 ~ GON NS NerD 60 HHKB ~ 360 Corsa (jk skam) ~ KMAC Happy (jk skam) ~ JD40 (jk skam)

Offline stoic-lemon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6587 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 03:37:26 »
Are there any shared resources to help with layout and color mock ups? I know about the online layout designer, which is excellent.

I was thinking something like an .ai file people could play with to show different kits.

Offline delobe

  • Posts: 24
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6588 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 12:39:18 »
I just got my first mechanical keyboard with brown mx.

What would be the cheapest way to try out all (most) of the other switches on offer? Returns on amazon, trading, swapping keys...thanks?
de hand, de fingres, de nails, de arma, de bilbow

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6589 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 12:41:50 »
What would be the cheapest way to try out all (most) of the other switches on offer? Returns on amazon, trading, swapping keys...thanks?

A switch tester, QWERkeys and CM Storm offer one for example. The one from CM Storm is pretty good as it comes with a case and the switches are plate mounted, so it comes fairly close to how they would feel on an actual keyboard.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6590 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 13:20:38 »
I just got my first mechanical keyboard with brown mx.

What would be the cheapest way to try out all (most) of the other switches on offer? Returns on amazon, trading, swapping keys...thanks?

Yeah please don't do the return deal with amazon.  Do a bit of research and looking into your typing habits and how you feel about the browns and go from there.  Return policys are there for dead or defective products, not buyers remorse, change of heart, or intentional test drives.  All this does is drive up prices for everything else they sell.  If you buy a board and don't like it, you should be able to resell it here for a smaller loss than what return shipping and restocking fees would cost you.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Kringler

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6591 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 00:45:35 »
Thought I might pop a few simple questions down here instead of opening a new topic. Hope that works for everyone.  ;D
I'm in the market for buying my first mechanical keyboard, and I have these few small questions:

1) I had an opportunity to test out two mechanical keyboards at a local Best Buy—a Black Widow Ultimate, which I believe has untouched mx blues, and a G710+, which I believe has mx browns with giant o-rings. My question is this: should I really depend on the G710+ to give me a good impression of what the mx browns are? Before trying any of them I thought browns would be my favorite, but they felt mushy to me. They kind of felt like slightly 'dirty' feeling rubber domes; I didn't like that at all.

2) I really liked the blues in the Widow, and I really think that those are the switches that I want to go for. But I'm concerned that I haven't tried out any switches other than the brown and blues, so do any of you believe that I should wait until I could try out some linear ones, or even other switches before I make the decision?

Thanks everyone! If this is not a great place to slap this, I understand if it needs to be moved.
« Last Edit: Thu, 06 March 2014, 00:48:46 by Kringler »

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6592 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 01:06:37 »
Check out the switch tester from Cooler Master.  It has 6 different switches in it mounted in a case (though I don't remember if they are plate or pcb mounted).  The thing to remember with browns is that the tactile bump is the smallest of all the MX switches.  A lot of times to do feel "dirty", especially when brand new.  I personally feel that browns don't show their true colors until they are broke in.  This will smooth out the bump a touch but to me they don't feel dirty anymore after a bit of use.  Of course switches are all personal preference.  I almost always recommend browns as a first time switch.

If you have browns you can tell a lot of stuff.  If you want less tactility, go with a linear.  If you want more tactility but not the noise then clears or ergo clears (this is a modded switch).  The one thing is it is a bit more difficult to get a lighter switch than browns, blues, or reds (all use the same spring).  This will require buying aftermarket springs and taking apart all the switches and putting them in.  If the keyboard is plate mounted then it will require desoldering each and every switch.

It really isn't that difficult to do with single sided PCBs.  Dual sided PCBs are more difficult to desolder though. 

Overall, browns are almost always a safe bet for a first switch.  If you really want to be sure get a switch tester.  There are a few places that sell them.  Also, be warned that the same switches will feel different in different keyboards.  Even if you take the exact same switches out of one keyboard and put them in another, they can feel different.  Also, keycaps have a HUGE impact on how switches feel.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline Kringler

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6593 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 01:35:21 »
Thanks for the quick reply Melvang. I'll definitely look into getting that switch kit; last time I checked on that, though, it was out of stock.

Another quick question concerning key caps: I believe it's PBS that the higher quality, and thicker key caps are made out of, is this highly preferable over other materials? It seems that most backlit keyboards have lower quality caps. Is the difference quickly and easily noticed over other materials?

Thanks!

Offline dndlmx

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6594 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 05:22:04 »
How does one create mock-ups like these ?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6595 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 10:38:24 »
Thanks for the quick reply Melvang. I'll definitely look into getting that switch kit; last time I checked on that, though, it was out of stock.

Another quick question concerning key caps: I believe it's PBS that the higher quality, and thicker key caps are made out of, is this highly preferable over other materials? It seems that most backlit keyboards have lower quality caps. Is the difference quickly and easily noticed over other materials?

Thanks!

PBT isn't really any higher quality than ABS.  Just a different material for making caps out of.  It does greatly affect the feel and the sound while typing though.  ABS generally seems be be more of a higher pitched tick while PBT is generally a lower pitched thock.  And yes most backlight compatible caps are of lower quality in that they are usually a frosted type opaque plastic that is either painted or dye sublimated for the legend.  Also ABS will develop a shine due to the texture wearing away considerably faster than PBT caps. 

Also, question of my own.

1.  Anyone know the ID and OD for the pads on the switch pins for the Phantom?
2.  Could also use some dimensions for pads including locations for SMD diodes for a PCB.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6596 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 10:54:43 »
Thanks for the quick reply Melvang. I'll definitely look into getting that switch kit; last time I checked on that, though, it was out of stock.

Another quick question concerning key caps: I believe it's PBS that the higher quality, and thicker key caps are made out of, is this highly preferable over other materials? It seems that most backlit keyboards have lower quality caps. Is the difference quickly and easily noticed over other materials?

Thanks!

PBT isn't really any higher quality than ABS.  Just a different material for making caps out of.  It does greatly affect the feel and the sound while typing though.  ABS generally seems be be more of a higher pitched tick while PBT is generally a lower pitched thock.  And yes most backlight compatible caps are of lower quality in that they are usually a frosted type opaque plastic that is either painted or dye sublimated for the legend.  Also ABS will develop a shine due to the texture wearing away considerably faster than PBT caps. 

My thick GMK ABS keycaps make more of a thock than a click as well. I believe the sound corresponds better with thickness than with material (though material could be a part of it).

I like high quality ABS (a.k.a. GMK or OG Cherry) just as much as the thick PBT that I've tried. It will shine after a time, but it will take much longer than would the thin, cheapo ABS that comes stock on some keyboards.

Offline ajx

  • Posts: 391
Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6597 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 20:30:05 »
i wonder how to remap arrows from wasd to Fn, Pn, CTRL?
Tilde/Esc can i use them independently, switching from one to the other? 
also heard about firmware? does i need to update (NKRO on USB)

Offline Dreamre

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6598 on: Fri, 07 March 2014, 22:07:00 »
Where do you guys get your angled tweezers for stickering and such?

Thank you in advance!

Offline nubbinator

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #6599 on: Fri, 07 March 2014, 22:15:00 »
Where do you guys get your angled tweezers for stickering and such?

Thank you in advance!

Amazon, eBay, Frys, Mouser, Digikey, Newark, so on and so forth.