Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[CPTBadAss]

1) Is the cherry mx clear switch the same as cherry grey switch (the non clicky one...)?

2) Am I good if I replace the very hard spring with something equivalent to the cherry reds 45grams spring?

1) No, the tactile grey MX switch has a heavier spring versus the MX clear

2) It'll be the same as an ergo clear. The stems on the Tactile Grey and Clears are the same. I think it's just the spring that's different. I don't like ergo-clears though. I've found they stick. I really prefer stock Clears or MX Black spring + MX Clear stem. But 62g, 55g, and 65g are some popular aftermarket springs. I think techkeys.us has them in stock right now.

[Karura]

How2order LZ kbd?

[CPTBadAss]

How2order LZ kbd?

I'm honestly not sure anymore. Used to have GBs here. I think you can try emailing them or going to the LZ site?

[Giorgio]

The reason why I don't like clears is that the stem is too big, and it is very difficult to remove keycaps, to the point that you risk making the switch literally explode.

1) Is the cherry mx clear switch the same as cherry grey switch (the non clicky one...)?

2) Am I good if I replace the very hard spring with something equivalent to the cherry reds 45grams spring?

1) No, the tactile grey MX switch has a heavier spring versus the MX clear

2) It'll be the same as an ergo clear. The stems on the Tactile Grey and Clears are the same. I think it's just the spring that's different. I don't like ergo-clears though. I've found they stick. I really prefer stock Clears or MX Black spring + MX Clear stem. But 62g, 55g, and 65g are some popular aftermarket springs. I think techkeys.us has them in stock right now.

[CPTBadAss]

The reason why I don't like clears is that the stem is too big, and it is very difficult to remove keycaps, to the point that you risk making the switch literally explode.

Pretty sure the worst you can do is rip the top half off. There won't be any explosions ). I don't have any problems with removing my caps on my 1800 with clears.

* CPTBadAss shrugs

[jdcarpe]

The reason why I don't like clears is that the stem is too big, and it is very difficult to remove keycaps, to the point that you risk making the switch literally explode.

1) Is the cherry mx clear switch the same as cherry grey switch (the non clicky one...)?

2) Am I good if I replace the very hard spring with something equivalent to the cherry reds 45grams spring?

1) No, the tactile grey MX switch has a heavier spring versus the MX clear

2) It'll be the same as an ergo clear. The stems on the Tactile Grey and Clears are the same. I think it's just the spring that's different. I don't like ergo-clears though. I've found they stick. I really prefer stock Clears or MX Black spring + MX Clear stem. But 62g, 55g, and 65g are some popular aftermarket springs. I think techkeys.us has them in stock right now.

This is the reason you want to use a tactile grey stem? You will have the exact same issue, since the stems are physically identical but for the color.

[njbair]

The reason why I don't like clears is that the stem is too big, and it is very difficult to remove keycaps, to the point that you risk making the switch literally explode.

1) Is the cherry mx clear switch the same as cherry grey switch (the non clicky one...)?

2) Am I good if I replace the very hard spring with something equivalent to the cherry reds 45grams spring?

1) No, the tactile grey MX switch has a heavier spring versus the MX clear

2) It'll be the same as an ergo clear. The stems on the Tactile Grey and Clears are the same. I think it's just the spring that's different. I don't like ergo-clears though. I've found they stick. I really prefer stock Clears or MX Black spring + MX Clear stem. But 62g, 55g, and 65g are some popular aftermarket springs. I think techkeys.us has them in stock right now.

This is the reason you want to use a tactile grey stem? You will have the exact same issue, since the stems are physically identical but for the color.

Clear stems are definitely tighter than all the others, as a rule. I think maybe the pigment helps shrink the plastic a little bit or something.

[HoffmanMyster]

The reason why I don't like clears is that the stem is too big, and it is very difficult to remove keycaps, to the point that you risk making the switch literally explode.

Pretty sure the worst you can do is rip the top half off. There won't be any explosions ). I don't have any problems with removing my caps on my 1800 with clears.

* CPTBadAss shrugs

Some people have posted photos of the stem ripped out and the top half still in place.  Either way though (just stem or stem + switch top), on a plated board, that sucks.  However, I've never had this issue and I'm not led to believe that it is terribly common (lacking proper data).

[nightdriver]

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

[Giorgio]

Whatever the reason is, I ripped out the stem from the top of the switch... Luckily it was just a switch tester.
Greys seem less tight. I doubt that a caliber could measure such small fractions. I'll try.

From what I remember, normally the cross section of the stem isn't perfectly symmetrical in thickness, but it seems to be symmetrical in clears.

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

[CPTBadAss]

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

Whatever the reason is, I ripped out the stem from the top of the switch... Luckily it was just a switch tester.
Greys seem less tight. I doubt that a caliber could measure such small fractions. I'll try.

From what I remember, normally the cross section of the stem isn't perfectly symmetrical in thickness, but it seems to be symmetrical in clears.

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

I think you guys are blowing this way out of proportion. Just need to be a little more careful when removing caps with clears. Avoiding them completely and accusations of explosions are a bit much lol.

[sethk_]

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

Whatever the reason is, I ripped out the stem from the top of the switch... Luckily it was just a switch tester.
Greys seem less tight. I doubt that a caliber could measure such small fractions. I'll try.

From what I remember, normally the cross section of the stem isn't perfectly symmetrical in thickness, but it seems to be symmetrical in clears.

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

I think you guys are blowing this way out of proportion. Just need to be a little more careful when removing caps with clears. Avoiding them completely and accusations of explosions are a bit much lol.

And even if you are scared, just use a Qtip, toothpick, or tweezers to hold the stem down while you pull off a cap. I honestly have never had this issue, even when I put on my Nubb heart which was a tight stem to begin with. And also people need to remember to wiggle, and not pull straight up.

[Melvang]

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

Whatever the reason is, I ripped out the stem from the top of the switch... Luckily it was just a switch tester.
Greys seem less tight. I doubt that a caliber could measure such small fractions. I'll try.

From what I remember, normally the cross section of the stem isn't perfectly symmetrical in thickness, but it seems to be symmetrical in clears.

i'm honestly avoiding clears for that reason.  could they be using a different type of plastic for the clear stems, maybe?

I think you guys are blowing this way out of proportion. Just need to be a little more careful when removing caps with clears. Avoiding them completely and accusations of explosions are a bit much lol.

And even if you are scared, just use a Qtip, toothpick, or tweezers to hold the stem down while you pull off a cap. I honestly have never had this issue, even when I put on my Nubb heart which was a tight stem to begin with. And also people need to remember to wiggle, and not pull straight up.

I vote for the more careful method as well.  The other night I was placing some switches into a wyse plate and moving some Toxic caps around.  No PCB, and those plates were made with a fairly loose toleranced stamping method.  Switches had clear stems, not one switch pulled from the plate.  Now DSA caps with clear stems is a different ball game.  But SP has said that DSA caps intentionally for tighter for commercial uses iirc.

[TheGreatAntlers]

Did I get knockoff cherry switches on my KBP v60? All the LED switches I see have the logo on the bottom and the sight on the top, not vice versa.

[Joey Quinn]

Did I get knockoff cherry switches on my KBP v60? All the LED switches I see have the logo on the bottom and the sight on the top, not vice versa.

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No they're genuine cherry, some boards have the led on the top and some have it on the bottom.

[hwood34]

Did I get knockoff cherry switches on my KBP v60? All the LED switches I see have the logo on the bottom and the sight on the top, not vice versa.

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No they're genuine cherry, some boards have the led on the top and some have it on the bottom.

Yea some people prefer to have the legends illuminated differently

[TheGreatAntlers]

Did I get knockoff cherry switches on my KBP v60? All the LED switches I see have the logo on the bottom and the sight on the top, not vice versa.

Show Image

Cool, thanks guys

No they're genuine cherry, some boards have the led on the top and some have it on the bottom.

Yea some people prefer to have the legends illuminated differently

[Eszett]

Where can I find an overview / introduction on Gateron switches, in regard to 1) "How do they compare to Cherry MX?" and 2) "Which Gateron switch resembles which Cherry MX?"

[azhdar]

Where can I find an overview / introduction on Gateron switches, in regard to 1) "How do they compare to Cherry MX?" and 2) "Which Gateron switch resembles which Cherry MX?"

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=gateron+comparison+to+cherry+mx

or copy this in the url of your browser :
site:geekhack.org gateron review

[Eszett]

Thanks.

[CPTBadAss]

Where can I find an overview / introduction on Gateron switches, in regard to 1) "How do they compare to Cherry MX?" and 2) "Which Gateron switch resembles which Cherry MX?"

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=gateron+comparison+to+cherry+mx

or copy this in the url of your browser :
site:geekhack.org gateron review

For a slightly more helpful answer, I think my review has a lot of helpful links.

[Wilba]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

[esoomenona]

.

[CPTBadAss]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

That looks like a rubber dome keyboard. The design of it, though, is reminiscent of an IBM Model M buckling spring keyboard. In specific, the black color with the white on black keys can be found on a black IBM Model M13.

Might be that buckling sleeve rubber dome design. But I don't think I've seen a BS board with an enter and bottom row like that.

[nubbinator]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

That looks like a rubber dome keyboard. The design of it, though, is reminiscent of an IBM Model M buckling spring keyboard. In specific, the black color with the white on black keys can be found on a black IBM Model M13.

Might be that buckling sleeve rubber dome design. But I don't think I've seen a BS board with an enter and bottom row like that.

I almost guarantee it's a Keytronic similar to this one.

[nightdriver]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

that actually looks like the Das Keyboard 1.0 except with printed keycaps.

[nubbinator]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

that actually looks like the Das Keyboard 1.0 except with printed keycaps.

First gen Das Keyboard was a Keytronic 

[CPTBadAss]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

that actually looks like the Das Keyboard 1.0 except with printed keycaps.

First gen Das Keyboard was a Keytronic 

Some supporting links for what nubbinator is saying:

http://deskthority.net/wiki/Key_Tronic_E03600_family#Das_Keyboard
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=6652.0

[Eszett]

@Captain You wrote a nice review about Gateron blacks!

Another question: Is there a way (a mod) to reduce hysteresis in Cherry MX blues or Gateron blues?

[CPTBadAss]

Another question: Is there a way to mod hysteresis. I mean to get rid of or at least reduce the hysteresis in Cherry MX blues or Gateron blues?

Yes, the solution is to use another switch ). Hysteresis is built into the switch AFAIK.

[Eszett]

Oh, come on, there must be a way to alter the switch itself :-(

[CPTBadAss]

Oh, come on, there must be a way to alter the switch itself :-(

Theres a 2 part stem and I believe the hysteresis comes from the two parts interacting. So if you broke off one of the parts, the stem that remains would be blue but perform like a black or red. Hence, using another switch. You could also look into jailhouse blues but  fairly sure those have the same issue. And it doesn't go away with lube. So yes, use another switch.

[Eszett]

Alright, thanks Captain! I found a similar question to mine, here

[nightdriver]

What is this keyboard, and what switches does it use?

that actually looks like the Das Keyboard 1.0 except with printed keycaps.

First gen Das Keyboard was a Keytronic 

it's fairly nice for a rubber dome keyboard but... yeah.  it's a rubber dome keyboard.

[Melvang]

Oh, come on, there must be a way to alter the switch itself :-(

Theres a 2 part stem and I believe the hysteresis comes from the two parts interacting. So if you broke off one of the parts, the stem that remains would be blue but perform like a black or red. Hence, using another switch. You could also look into jailhouse blues but  fairly sure those have the same issue. And it doesn't go away with lube. So yes, use another switch.

If my understanding of the jailhouse mod, and the function of hyssteresis is correct.  Then the jailhouse mod should get rid of it because the mod locks the sliding part into a fixed position.  The sliding interaction between the two stem parts is what causes it, and the same holds true for all of MX clicky switches. 

That being said, after the jailhouse mod, you no longer have clicky switches, but somethingmore like an ergo clear with the tactile bump higher in the stroke, similar in feel to tactile alps, but with having 4mm of travel vs the ~3.5mm of alps.

[Eszett]

I see, I see. The "jailhouse mod" fastens the white slider, that is, prevents the white slider from moving up and down on the blue slider. The wiggling of the white slider produces the "click noise", but also the hysteresis. Alright.

[StinkyTheDonut]

I see, I see. The "jailhouse mod" fastens the white slider, that is, prevents the white slider from moving up and down on the blue slider. The wiggling of the white slider produces the "click noise", but also the hysteresis. Alright.

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I've been looking at my gateron blues today. I think the click actually comes from the copper parts making contact. after the thickest part of the bump passes, the curved metal leaf actually pushes the white slider down while slapping against the other side. the click is actually from the slap, and not from the white slider bottoming out as people seem to suggest.

EDIT: Maybe I was wrong about the blues clicky mechanism. It seems that both do the clicking, but the slider does far more of it. It seems the slider clicks on the blue stem's tabs holding it and not from bottoming out though.

[CPTBadAss]

Yeah I think y'all are right about the Jailhouse Blues. No more hysteresis but no more clicking either.

[hwood34]

Vintage or nah

[CPTBadAss]

Vintage or nah

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Looks like every other brown I've ever seen. Dunno how to tell them apart

[hwood34]

Vintage or nah

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Looks like every other brown I've ever seen. Dunno how to tell them apart

logo is wider (and seems to be a little more flush) on vintage. These look a little like it but also more centered whereas vintage logos kinda seem closer to the stem

[phx]

how do I fix pinging switches? through lubing?

[CPTBadAss]

how do I fix pinging switches? through lubing?

Lube your switches, clean them, put drawer liner or something of that nature in between the PCB and bottom of the case, put your keyboard on top of something like a mousepad.

[Rose]

It is my understanding that the purple pins are usable for the matrix.  The green one can be used but the LED on the Teensy will flicker which I don't care about.  For what is the orange pin used?  I am going to use three or four LEDs.  Can I connect them all to the same/either ground?

I have the matrix soldered, I just need to connect it the controller.  Am I correct in understanding that I can connect the teensy to anywhere on each row/column.  Can't imagine why it would need to be at one end or the other but I just want to make sure.


Thank you.

[3K]

So I want to replace the missing cable of my G80-3000.
The problem is I have no idea in what order I solder in the single strands of the new cable.
It looks like this on the PCB:

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The strands that were left on the board were attached in the order: yellow, white, green, black, no coating. [1..5]

Can someone tell me what color goes where?/ Where I have to connect Vcc, Data, GND?

[njbair]

So I want to replace the missing cable of my G80-3000.
The problem is I have no idea in what order I solder in the single strands of the new cable.
It looks like this on the PCB:

More

Show Image

The strands that were left on the board were attached in the order: yellow, white, green, black, no coating. [1..5]

Can someone tell me what color goes where?/ Where I have to connect Vcc, Data, GND?

Maybe someone here knows how that board is wired up, but if I were you I would just do trial and error. 5v is going to hurt anything.

This would be the standard for USB:

1. Vcc
2. Data -
3. Data +
4. Ground
5. Shield (uncoated)

[Wilba]

Maybe someone here knows how that board is wired up, but if I were you I would just do trial and error. 5v is going to hurt anything.

Yeah, um... swapping 5V and ground will kill ICs. At least identify ground and get that connected correctly before experimenting.

*edit* take a photo of the PCB and where you want to connect the USB, I may be able to identify the pinout.

*edit2* "yellow, white, green, black, no coating" does line up with 5V, Data-, Data+, Ground, Shield. It's usually red not yellow.

[njbair]

Yeah, um... swapping 5V and ground will kill ICs.

Eek! Obviously not my intention. I was applying my experience with analog circuitry like op amps. OP listen to this guy.

[3K]

OP listen to this guy.

No problem, thanks for trying to help, haha.

"yellow, white, green, black, no coating" does line up with 5V, Data-, Data+, Ground, Shield. It's usually red not yellow.

Thanks, I connected it like this, plugged in the USB cable, boot, nothing. No LED reaction, no input registered.
Any ideas? Should I have used a PS/2 cable?

[CPTBadAss]

"yellow, white, green, black, no coating" does line up with 5V, Data-, Data+, Ground, Shield. It's usually red not yellow.

Thanks, I connected it like this, plugged in the USB cable, boot, nothing. No LED reaction, no input registered.
Any ideas? Should I have used a PS/2 cable?

Did you try a different USB port? Are you sure your solder joints are all good?