Disappointed with inconsistencies in Unicomp switch feel

[glitchathon]

I just bought a 103 key Unicomp Ultra Classic. I was really excited since I really like the Model M's I have tried. But this Unicomp seems to have some quality issues. For one, the NumLock key did not click until I reseated the key. The left Ctrl key is a bigger problem. I have to press harder to get it to click than the other keys. It is very obvious when pressing it slowly. It just does not have a satisfying buildup to a click. More like a bottoming out and then a click with extra pressure. I reseated the key several times with no change.

The keyboard is useable but far from the quality keyboard I was hoping for. Besides the Ctrl key, there are certainly inconsistencies in the feel from key to key. There is another key in the numpad area that is similar to the Ctrl key but not as bad. Did I get a bad one or are these types of problems normal?

[supamesican]

sounds like a bad one, and maybe badly seated keys. My unicomp doesn't do that nor do anyone the ones my friends have.  Springs will vary though just because of what they are.

[dante]

SUPPORT YOUR COUNTRY

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[fohat.digs]

I would try more re-seating efforts. It may take several iterations to hit the sweet spot.

There is a dimple in the underside of the key stem well that the top opening of the spring needs to hit, and there are variations in how the stem seats.

Try standing the keyboard upright frontwards (on the spacebar edge) or rearwards (on the function key edge) which will make the spring flop all the way forward or back as you seat the stem.

[glitchathon]

Y

I would try more re-seating efforts. It may take several iterations to hit the sweet spot.

There is a dimple in the underside of the key stem well that the top opening of the spring needs to hit, and there are variations in how the stem seats.

Try standing the keyboard upright frontwards (on the spacebar edge) or rearwards (on the function key edge) which will make the spring flop all the way forward or back as you seat the stem.

Yep,  I did learn the trick of standing the key on its front edge, since I noticed the key cap has a ramp that allows it to slip into position.  Unfortunately after about 10 tries, it made no difference. I finally compared it to a key that worked well, and I discovered the bad key has a shorter spring… Not by much, but definitely noticeable. I've been yanked the spring to be longer, and now it works pretty good. I think I will ask Unicomp to send me a few springs so that I can get it properly working, but I think that was the problem.

[1391406]

Y

I would try more re-seating efforts. It may take several iterations to hit the sweet spot.

There is a dimple in the underside of the key stem well that the top opening of the spring needs to hit, and there are variations in how the stem seats.

Try standing the keyboard upright frontwards (on the spacebar edge) or rearwards (on the function key edge) which will make the spring flop all the way forward or back as you seat the stem.

Yep,  I did learn the trick of standing the key on its front edge, since I noticed the key cap has a ramp that allows it to slip into position.  Unfortunately after about 10 tries, it made no difference. I finally compared it to a key that worked well, and I discovered the bad key has a shorter spring… Not by much, but definitely noticeable. I've been yanked the spring to be longer, and now it works pretty good. I think I will ask Unicomp to send me a few springs so that I can get it properly working, but I think that was the problem.

Changing a spring can be challenging to say the least.

[klennkellon]

Buckling Springs can be a bit inconsistent and many people don't like the feel of brand new buckling springs.

I think as you use it the key feel will even-out as the springs get worn in and soften up.

[1391406]

Buckling Springs can be a bit inconsistent and many people don't like the feel of brand new buckling springs.

I think as you use it the key feel will even-out as the springs get worn in and soften up.

I don't think it's an issue related to just needing to be broken in. I bought a Unicomp classic a few years ago and the feel is pretty consistent across all of the keys.

[supamesican]

my endurapro is consistent. It sounds like **** just happens and op got a bad one. such is life.

[ander]

I just bought a 103 key Unicomp Ultra Classic. I was really excited since I really like the Model M's I have tried. But this Unicomp seems to have some quality issues...

Sorry to hear you're having problems. It's pretty well known that Unicomp's QC isn't quite up to Lexmark's or IBM's, who preceded them. They do the best they can, though, considering they're just a small group dedicated to preserving the manufacture of real BS boards, and have nowhere near the resources the bigger companies did.

On your Ctrl key, the first thing I'd try (after reseating the keys, which you've done) is to apply a small amount of plastic-friendly lube to the stem of the key button, and around the inside of the barrel it goes in. Most people here use pricey specialized lubes, but I've found that this inexpensive Inox MX3 lube works great. I just spray a bit into the cap and apply it with a Q-Tip.

[need]

I just bought a 103 key Unicomp Ultra Classic. I was really excited since I really like the Model M's I have tried. But this Unicomp seems to have some quality issues...

On your Ctrl key, the first thing I'd try (after reseating the keys, which you've done) is to apply a small amount of plastic-friendly lube to the stem of the key button, and around the inside of the barrel it goes in. Most people here use pricey specialized lubes, but I've found that this inexpensive Inox MX3 lube works great. I just spray a bit into the cap and apply it with a Q-Tip.

I don't think it's good advice to apply lube, buckling spring simply isn't designed to be used with lube. I doubt that would make any difference in op's case. I'd suggest comparing the innards of the keys, and spot any difference.

[ander]

I don't think it's good advice to apply lube, buckling spring simply isn't designed to be used with lube...

Nonsense. I've fixed sticking keys on many Model M's by applying a sparing amount of plastic-friendly lube to stems and barrels, and have never seen any bad effects.

It's true that lube isn't applied to BS's at the factory (except on the Soft Touch, of course <g>). But saying they weren't "designed to be used with lube" is like saying that boards weren't "designed" for any mods or repairs using non-original parts or materials. If that were true, we'd have to shut down GH!

I doubt that would make any difference in op's case. I'd suggest comparing the innards of the keys, and spot any difference.

I was simply suggesting lubing as a first, easy thing to try. I'm not sure what you mean by inspecting "the innards of the keys". Looking inside the barrels? Or taking apart the whole board? The 2nd one's considerably more complicated, and I certainly wouldn't do it until it was necessary.

[need]

I don't think it's good advice to apply lube, buckling spring simply isn't designed to be used with lube...

Nonsense. I've fixed sticking keys on many Model M's by applying a sparing amount of plastic-friendly lube to stems and barrels, and have never seen any bad effects.

It's true that lube isn't applied to BS's at the factory (except on the Soft Touch, of course <g>). But saying they weren't "designed to be used with lube" is like saying that boards weren't "designed" for any mods or repairs using non-original parts or materials. If that were true, we'd have to shut down GH!

I doubt that would make any difference in op's case. I'd suggest comparing the innards of the keys, and spot any difference.

I was simply suggesting lubing as a first, easy thing to try. I'm not sure what you mean by inspecting "the innards of the keys". Looking inside the barrels? Or taking apart the whole board? The 2nd one's considerably more complicated, and I certainly wouldn't do it until it was necessary.

Say what you want for the lube part, we all know that lube is the answer to everything!  At least that's how Geekhack has made me to believe 

What I suggest is to examine the barrel, the stem and the springs. OP's problem is 100% not due to the lack of lube, but something wrong with the innards. Lube improves the feel, not solves a problem!

What do you think I mean with "innards" by the way? The pcb?  ) Silly you.

[1391406]

It's likely an issue with the springs.

[tp4tissue]

put 10 thousand strokes in first..  it's not considered broken unless broken in.. hahahahaha

[ander]

Say what you want for the lube part, we all know that lube is the answer to everything!  :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: At least that's how Geekhack has made me to believe  :D

What I suggest is to examine the barrel, the stem and the springs. OP's problem is 100% not due to the lack of lube, but something wrong with the innards. Lube improves the feel, not solves a problem!

Maybe you're right. I don't remember how much of a hurry I was in when I saw this thread. I may have just read the title and assumed the OP was referring to inconsistent resistance across the board, rather than problems actuating particular switches once the keys were down.

What do you think I mean with "innards" by the way? The pcb?  :)) Silly you.

I've never seen anyone on GH refer to a BS board's "innards" and not mean the inner assembly. You're free to call the barrels whatever you wish—but you can't refer to them as a board's "innards" and expect people to magically know what you mean.

[fohat.digs]

I've never seen anyone on GH refer to a BS board's "innards" and not mean the inner assembly.

You're free to call the barrels whatever you wish

My experience is that in general the current accepted terminology in these forums is that the entire internal assembly is called the "innards" and that is everything that lifts out of the case shell as a unit when you separate the plastic halves.

To be technical, Model Fs have individual barrels (or, in Unicomp parlance, "chimneys") set into a heavy steel front plate and a large heavy "PCB" behind that includes the capacitive traces. There is a "foam mat" in the middle of the assembly, and there is also a small separate conventional printed circuit board that is the controller.

The Model M has a "barrel frame" that is a plate with all the barrels (chimneys, if you order a replacement from Unicomp) molded into it and 3 clear mylar sheets behind it with printed traces.

If you order replacement parts from Unicomp, you should know that they don't use the word "barrels" and to them key caps are "buttons"

The "rubber mat" in a Model M is a "blanket" (and you will get a very thin white latex one) and a "membrane" is the silicone sheet with rubber domes molded into it that non-BS keyboards use.

[need]

What do you think I mean with "innards" by the way? The pcb?  ) Silly you.

I've never seen anyone on GH refer to a BS board's "innards" and not mean the inner assembly. You're free to call the barrels whatever you wish—but you can't refer to them as a board's "innards" and expect people to magically know what you mean.

I don't think it's good advice to apply lube, buckling spring simply isn't designed to be used with lube. I doubt that would make any difference in op's case. I'd suggest comparing the innards of the keys, and spot any difference.

If you read again, I refered them as "innards of the KEYS". That's pretty clear, no? Or is that still magic?

[ander]

If you order replacement parts from Unicomp, you should know that they don't use the word "barrels" and to them key caps are "buttons"... The "rubber mat" in a Model M is a "blanket" (and you will get a very thin white latex one) and a "membrane" is the silicone sheet with rubber domes molded into it that non-BS keyboards use.

Correct on most counts. If Unicomp's site is any guide, though, apparently button and key are interchangeable. They refer to a complete unit used to operate a switch—whether it's a single piece, or two pieces consisting of a stem and a cap.

We also commonly refer to all the parts a KB rests on as "feet". Only the static pads are feet, though; the ones that fold down are risers. There are other misused terms like this, too.

Specific KB terms were created to avoid confusion and mistakes. Of course it was more important when IBM and Lexmark were cranking out thousands of boards. But considering how much GH-ers care about authenticity and precision, it's always baffled me why they continued using terms guessed at by KB enthusiasts, rather than the terms KB engineers and manufacturers have used for generations.

We like to laugh when an eBay seller refers to a cable as a "cord" or a "wire", or points out that a Model M's key has a "blank replacement" when the cap has just been lost.  :?)