OLED monitors

[phinix]

I can't find my previous OLED thread, so will start a new one.

I keep seeing announcements of those new OLED PC monitors, but they all are mostly 27" - who uses such small screens nowadays. I mean I would think that 32" is a minimum for OLED and 4K. Personally I think 40" is perfect, but we can only use OLED TVs and only get 42" ones (C4 or upcoming C5).
Why they still don't get us some nice, standard ratio (not those stupid ultra wides) 40" monitors?
I have 48CX but want to swap for C4 42" cause 99% of the time for desktop use, I keep windows smaller than full screen. When I had 40" Philips monitor years ago, that was pretty much sweet spot for me.

[tp4tissue]

The small screens are alot more profitable. That's why the manufacturers are pushing them.

If you move the table back off the wall, and put the monitor Down a bit. That's the better way to use TVs.  Or use separate motor lift for the table and tv like Tp4 so you can sit and stand.

[Sniping]

32 is actually quite on the large end for gaming monitors. the recent batch of oled monitors released last year were all 32" ones. they're quite good for mixed use but if you need bigger, you're out of luck unfortunately. the 32" models have a lot of good features like USB-C thunderbolt PD, built in KVM, and some have heatsinks to manage temperatures and prolong the life of the monitor. I personally use a 42 OLED. using a TV is certainly fine for browsing and some gaming but I totally see the appeal of the smaller displays that are purpose built for PC use.

[tp4tissue]

The problem isn't the monitor, the problem is the space.

If we don't have a pc room to ourselves. Can't go bigger if the table has to be against the wall.


Tp4's main pc room is a small 10x10, but without bed or anything else, a motorized standing desk and motorized TV lift allows placement of the table at 1/3 from the wall. Now you can use up to 85ish inches at this distance. Or Up to 100inch if you want your back against the back wall.

Tp4 would argue 1/3 from front is better, because it gives you a little walking space while standing. Some times you do some kicks, get some range of motion.


Sitting for more than 3-4 hours is not healthy. Slowly destroying the spinal discs. Ask how Cripple-p4 knows? Sitting for 10-14 hours a day for 25 years. 

[phinix]

Just to say, after I got myself a C4 42" I feel like it is PERFECT monitor size. I had Philips 40" for years and wanted something bigger, so got myself 48" OLED. OLED is a top class of its own, so will never go back to VA/IPS, but the size - 48" was a waste of spacee for me for 80% of the time when I worked on it as I had all windows centered and maybe taking 70% of the screen. Now, with 42" it feels right, bigger a bit, good for gaming, but also good for work tasks.

[phinix]

tp, do you know what color gamut do those LG C4 OLEDs have? I cannot find it in their specs...
I do some photo editing and was wondering - sRGB is standard, then my camera has Adobe, wider one - how does this correspond with OLED? 10bit, 12bit... I'm lost...

[tp4tissue]

C4 at 200nits and lower is approximately 94% dcip3, if you run it at native gamut, where it looks its most saturated.

You can tell visually, just look at reds, if it looks "very red" it's native.  If it looks pinkish-or brownish, it's in a clamped mode, srgb like mode.


Srgb is the default internet standard, but it doesn't mean anything, if no one has a display matching those standards these days.

So, when you edit your photos,  you set photoshop for example to srgb, but what you see on screen is what you see on screen. Srgb is just the container's assumption. The device takes over from whatever the signal output is.


Most devices out in the wild now are Near P3 gamut, which is what the native output of the C4 will be.

If you edit your photos in a clamped srgb mode, it will look over-saturated when stretched to P3.

In reverse, if you edit in P3, and someone is viewing your photos on a monitor closer to srgb, it will look Under-saturated.


So it comes down to 2 things.  What are you trying to capture, and what is your intended target device.


Generally, the pros will use raw capture, then use a lut of some sort in the photo app for output and adjust for target device after the fact.


To keep it simple, make sure your LG is in its native gamut mode, check for saturation clipping using a pattern on your browser, and reduce the saturation setting on the LG until the clipping is gone.


Then when you edit the photo, check your work on a new lcd monitor, an old lcd monitor, finally an iphone.   That pretty much covers your audience.

[phinix]

C4 at 200nits and lower is approximately 94% dcip3, if you run it at native gamut, where it looks its most saturated.

You can tell visually, just look at reds, if it looks "very red" it's native.  If it looks pinkish-or brownish, it's in a clamped mode, srgb like mode.


Srgb is the default internet standard, but it doesn't mean anything, if no one has a display matching those standards these days.

So, when you edit your photos,  you set photoshop for example to srgb, but what you see on screen is what you see on screen. Srgb is just the container's assumption. The device takes over from whatever the signal output is.


Most devices out in the wild now are Near P3 gamut, which is what the native output of the C4 will be.

If you edit your photos in a clamped srgb mode, it will look over-saturated when stretched to P3.

In reverse, if you edit in P3, and someone is viewing your photos on a monitor closer to srgb, it will look Under-saturated.


So it comes down to 2 things.  What are you trying to capture, and what is your intended target device.


Generally, the pros will use raw capture, then use a lut of some sort in the photo app for output and adjust for target device after the fact.


To keep it simple, make sure your LG is in its native gamut mode, check for saturation clipping using a pattern on your browser, and reduce the saturation setting on the LG until the clipping is gone.


Then when you edit the photo, check your work on a new lcd monitor, an old lcd monitor, finally an iphone.   That pretty much covers your audience.

Yep, on native gamut - bright orange text on our GH site is burning my eyes

[tp4tissue]

That means it's p3.

So you want to make your image just a bit oversaturated to compensate for people who might use an srgb system.

Check your work on multiple devices.

You don't need absolute accuracy unless you're Into that personally, or you have to color match a pipeline.

[YALE70]

I picked up an old 16:10 ratio 30-inch Apple Cinema HD Display at the thrift store last week and am genuinely floored at how much more I like using this thing compared to the 34-inch Dell ultrawide I normally use on my main desktop. Obviously it's old as dirt and has it's share of issues, but it's got me tempted to pull the trigger on a new display with similar vertical real estate. Leaning towards a 32-inch 16:9 in either 1440p or 4K (preferably) with at least a 144Hz refresh rate, but tempted by the 38-inch ultrawides - but those are going to start pushing the limits of my current desk. Maybe even a 5K2K ultrawide? But those seem to be few and far between...

A TV seems like a great bang for the buck option too - getting a better panel and whole bunch of other bells and whistles for about the same amount of money as a 32-inch display; thanks to it being subsidized by all the pre-loaded data harvesting crap. But again, I'd probably be screwed on desk space with something that wide and without a proper stand (easy enough fix, but still). So many damn choices.