Author Topic: Gat clears weren't for me, swapped my Tada68 to lubed Cherry grey tactiles :)  (Read 4016 times)

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Online Rob27shred

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The board with Gat clears when I 1st got it.
164976-0
After the switch swap, I reused the blue LEDs it had in it.
164978-1
Caps back on & all light up ;D
164980-2
164982-3

This was a tough one to pull off successfully, especially just working with a hand pump & wick for de-soldering. >:D I got this board 2nd hand in a trade so I'm not sure if the LEDs or switches it came with were stock to it or not. I'm leaning towards thinking it may have been switch swapped or at least had the LEDs swapped once before from the looks of the back of the PCB. It didn't have any burn marks or lifted pads on it, but there was huge globs of solder on almost all the LED joints & some of the switch joints, I mean super over excessive amounts of solder for each joint like that. Also the legs of the LEDs were clipped high with the excess bent back towards the PCB, which made them a real challenge to remove without damaging the PCB & there was obnoxious amounts of flux left on the PCB from the crazy amount of solder that was used. :eek:

I actually started off by using the back of an artist brush I use for lube to fleck away the bigger globs of flux because there was so much of it around the joints. Thankfully after I got the LEDs & switches de-soldered & removed, a good wipe down of the PCB with 91% isopropyl alcohol removed the rest of the flux. The de-soldering was fairly tedious & worrisome because of the huge amount of solder previously used, especially with the LEDs. I had to use much higher heat & hold the iron to the joints much longer than I am usually comfortable with because of that. Thankfully I managed to get all the de-soldering done, the LEDs removed, & the switches removed without damaging the PCB in any way! It was all downhill from here! :p

After that I went to work lubing the stabs with super lube & lubing the switches with Geekhacker Thick Krytox mix, I got both lubes from switchtop.com. After that I put the stabs back in the plate, put switches in the 4 corners of the plate, soldered them in, installed all the switches & LEDs, then soldered everything in one go. In hindsight I am really glad I decided to go ahead & lube all the switches for this swap. The switches were pretty damn smooth stock so I just lubed one to compare. Comparing just one lubed to one stock switch while they are not installed on a board doesn't do the lubed switch justice at all, I really couldn't perceive much of a difference. But comparing this now finished board to my Pok3r with stock Cherry clears the difference in smoothness is night & day. Now that could be partially due to Cherry's new stems but either way I'm glad I took the extra time to lube the switches. :thumb:

IMHO the end product came out to be easily the best feeling KB I have, I even prefer the feel of this over my recently built custom 60% with 80g Cherry blacks. The Kyrytox made the switches just so unbelievably smooth & combined with the stout stainless steel plate this board has it makes for a very pleasurable thock type sound & feel. Almost similar to what some Topre sound tests I have heard sound like, although I'm sure the feels are completely different. I'll upload a typing test video later so you guys can see what I mean. All in all I am very pleased with the results of this project, it has definitely earned a high spot in my daily driver rotation already. To top it off I'm pretty sure the GMK Sky Dolch set I have coming in the next few days has the proper keys (or at least enough keys of the right row profiles) to cover this board. If it does that'll be the endgame for this board & now my 2nd board I've reached that point with! :D


Offline Joey Quinn

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So you went from linear 35g switches to tactile 80g switches, quite the change. I love tactile greys but I think MX clears or panda clears are better just due to the weight.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Online Rob27shred

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So you went from linear 35g switches to tactile 80g switches, quite the change. I love tactile greys but I think MX clears or panda clears are better just due to the weight.

I have always preferred heavier MX switches, I got the Tada68 2nd hand through a trade so I didn't have a choice on the switches. Also I figured why not give Gat clears a try even though I pretty much knew this would end up happening. I like Cherry clears as well but due to using blacks with 80g springs for awhile recently they even feel a bit light to me. The Panda clears are something I have yet to try but plan on in the future.

Online Rob27shred

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Offline Joey Quinn

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So you went from linear 35g switches to tactile 80g switches, quite the change. I love tactile greys but I think MX clears or panda clears are better just due to the weight.

I have always preferred heavier MX switches, I got the Tada68 2nd hand through a trade so I didn't have a choice on the switches. Also I figured why not give Gat clears a try even though I pretty much knew this would end up happening. I like Cherry clears as well but due to using blacks with 80g springs for awhile recently they even feel a bit light to me. The Panda clears are something I have yet to try but plan on in the future.

IMO spring swapping the gat clears would've been better than spring swapping the blacks because the gat clears will be smoother, I use 78g lubed gat clears in my GON and love em.

The wobble due to loose tolerances in the gaterons can be corrected by using a cherry switch top if you ever feel like experimenting with other linear switches. I originally used cherry switch tops on my gat clears for purely aesthetic purposes but in the end it also corrected an issue I didn't even know existed.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done


Online Rob27shred

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So you went from linear 35g switches to tactile 80g switches, quite the change. I love tactile greys but I think MX clears or panda clears are better just due to the weight.

I have always preferred heavier MX switches, I got the Tada68 2nd hand through a trade so I didn't have a choice on the switches. Also I figured why not give Gat clears a try even though I pretty much knew this would end up happening. I like Cherry clears as well but due to using blacks with 80g springs for awhile recently they even feel a bit light to me. The Panda clears are something I have yet to try but plan on in the future.

IMO spring swapping the gat clears would've been better than spring swapping the blacks because the gat clears will be smoother, I use 78g lubed gat clears in my GON and love em.

The wobble due to loose tolerances in the gaterons can be corrected by using a cherry switch top if you ever feel like experimenting with other linear switches. I originally used cherry switch tops on my gat clears for purely aesthetic purposes but in the end it also corrected an issue I didn't even know existed.

If it were the old blacks you would be 100% right about swapping the stems but I got lucky & the batch of Cherry blacks I got for my 60% build were ones with the new stems. They are just as smooth as Gats now, I actually ordered Gat & Cherry blacks for that build to compare & ended up slightly preferring the Cherry switches. That is a great tip about using a Cherry top housing to reduce the wobble of Gats. I am thinking of grabbing some heavier springs & lube for the Gat clears then using them in a future build, sounds like I want to get some Cherry housing tops for that as well. :thumb:

Online Rob27shred

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original Gandaulf ftw ?
(Attachment Link)


is it even possible to utilize a staff and a sword simultaneously ?

Maybe with many years of training to use the force?  :))

Offline romevi

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That's a big wall of text in the first post I didn't bother to read, but all I will say is that I love my tactile grays. I have 72g gold springs with lubed tactile grays and they are contenders for my favorite MX switch.

Offline tp4tissue

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original Gandaulf ftw ?
(Attachment Link)


is it even possible to utilize a staff and a sword simultaneously ?

Maybe with many years of training to use the force?  :))

I'm holding my hand up to the monitor .. can you feel my force ?? is this working ??  I've been practicing since the first movie.

Online Rob27shred

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That's a big wall of text in the first post I didn't bother to read, but all I will say is that I love my tactile grays. I have 72g gold springs with lubed tactile grays and they are contenders for my favorite MX switch.

Yeah sorry, I was venting about the horrible soldering job that it had before I got my hands on it. The lube does make a huge difference in feel, I kept the stock grey springs myself. I have been using it for a couple days now & have to say the tactile greys are very high on my list of MX switches as well. :thumb:

original Gandaulf ftw ?
(Attachment Link)


is it even possible to utilize a staff and a sword simultaneously ?

Maybe with many years of training to use the force?  :))

I'm holding my hand up to the monitor .. can you feel my force ?? is this working ??  I've been practicing since the first movie.

Yes, I felt a great disturbance in the force. :p  ;)