What Keyboard Are You Using Now?

[econeuler]

Using this one atm,

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Just got my Candybar Premium (lubed C3 stabs, Drop "Holy Pandas, Infinikey Candybar 40% BoW keycaps) and I am still fine tuning the layers with VIA, as I have never experienced the 40% layout before.

How do you like the layout so far?

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Split

but - no- TENTING ?

Haha completely flat indeed, it might be a bit high, but otherwise I like it a lot, and have some silent tactiles installed which are nice!

[bkrownd]

  I'm using a new GMMK TKL keyboard, in "ice white".  Looks and sounds very nice.  The only purchase option was pre-installed with Gateron Browns, but they feel kinda mooshy to me so I'll probably try a different switch soon.  I may try something clicky, because I enjoy the sharp crisp feedback of clicky.  I ordered another black GMMK TKL (w/ pandas) from the black friday "doorbuster" deal. 

  I would be using my AKKO 84-key "World Tour Tokyo" but I had to send it back for a new one due to a dead key.  ;(

[SmoothFaces]

Idobao id80, my first legit mechanical keyboard

[Topweasel]

My latest...

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What keyboard is this?

Looks like a wire path through on the side. If I had to guess it's this semi random 87 key bangood barebones I saw the other day..

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[TomahawkLabs]

Varmilo VA87M: White case with orange LEDs from Drop a few years back with SA Camping keycaps. I think the only way I would step away from SA keycaps would be in favor of an Alps keyboard!

[SpinningHook]

Using this one atm,

Show Image

Just got my Candybar Premium (lubed C3 stabs, Drop "Holy Pandas, Infinikey Candybar 40% BoW keycaps) and I am still fine tuning the layers with VIA, as I have never experienced the 40% layout before.

How do you like the layout so far?

I am still getting used to it. I am considering swapping some more keys out from the numpad layout over to punctuation keys, but the keyset that I have currently isn't going to support the chages that I want to make. I have a few GMK sets that I ma waiting for, so I probably won't make the changes until next spring.

[econeuler]

Using this one atm,

Show Image

Just got my Candybar Premium (lubed C3 stabs, Drop "Holy Pandas, Infinikey Candybar 40% BoW keycaps) and I am still fine tuning the layers with VIA, as I have never experienced the 40% layout before.

How do you like the layout so far?

I am still getting used to it. I am considering swapping some more keys out from the numpad layout over to punctuation keys, but the keyset that I have currently isn't going to support the chages that I want to make. I have a few GMK sets that I ma waiting for, so I probably won't make the changes until next spring.

I see :) I have given up on trying to have matching keycaps, especially since I switched to Colemak dhm. But I find that it is actually better to not have matching keycaps (in my case just leaving it qwerty), or to use blanks, because that forces you to properly touch type  :)

[Crabby]

Currently testing out an alps white board I got on ebay for really cheap in box (data desk mac 101e). It's amazing what you can find if you look for more obscure board, good caps on it too.

[SpinningHook]

Using this one atm,

Show Image

Just got my Candybar Premium (lubed C3 stabs, Drop "Holy Pandas, Infinikey Candybar 40% BoW keycaps) and I am still fine tuning the layers with VIA, as I have never experienced the 40% layout before.

How do you like the layout so far?

I am still getting used to it. I am considering swapping some more keys out from the numpad layout over to punctuation keys, but the keyset that I have currently isn't going to support the chages that I want to make. I have a few GMK sets that I ma waiting for, so I probably won't make the changes until next spring.

I see :) I have given up on trying to have matching keycaps, especially since I switched to Colemak dhm. But I find that it is actually better to not have matching keycaps (in my case just leaving it qwerty), or to use blanks, because that forces you to properly touch type  :)

Gotcha. I can't touch type worth a damn, so I  have given up on trying. Between the Red and Blue Samurai sets that I have coming (eventually), I would like to think that I should have the adequate key coverage that I need, but I won't know for certain until I have them in front of me. In the meantime, I am going to keep attempting to acclimate to the current configuration.

I am also using it to try out different switches that I have been addicted to buying the last few months. Right now, I am on Tangie 67g, but I had previously used lubed/filmed Creams and Drop Pandas. May move over to Gat Ink Blacks or OAs next.

[econeuler]

Using this one atm,

Show Image

Just got my Candybar Premium (lubed C3 stabs, Drop "Holy Pandas, Infinikey Candybar 40% BoW keycaps) and I am still fine tuning the layers with VIA, as I have never experienced the 40% layout before.

How do you like the layout so far?

I am still getting used to it. I am considering swapping some more keys out from the numpad layout over to punctuation keys, but the keyset that I have currently isn't going to support the chages that I want to make. I have a few GMK sets that I ma waiting for, so I probably won't make the changes until next spring.

I see :) I have given up on trying to have matching keycaps, especially since I switched to Colemak dhm. But I find that it is actually better to not have matching keycaps (in my case just leaving it qwerty), or to use blanks, because that forces you to properly touch type  :)

Gotcha. I can't touch type worth a damn, so I  have given up on trying. Between the Red and Blue Samurai sets that I have coming (eventually), I would like to think that I should have the adequate key coverage that I need, but I won't know for certain until I have them in front of me. In the meantime, I am going to keep attempting to acclimate to the current configuration.

I am also using it to try out different switches that I have been addicted to buying the last few months. Right now, I am on Tangie 67g, but I had previously used lubed/filmed Creams and Drop Pandas. May move over to Gat Ink Blacks or OAs next.

I see:) Yes, the journey to the perfect switches, I will actually try some lighter linears soon, maybe I already said that, but gat clears, and maybe spring swap creams to 50g 16mm or something!

[hvontres]

Curently breaking in my new work keyboard :

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This is actually a test mule to test out MT3 keycaps and Hako True's for when I do get around to making a true custom build :) (guess what that will be :) )

Been using this Beauty for a bit now:



I decided to go with green underlighting for now:




I was lucky enough to get one of Pylon's beta Boston kits. I love the layout, still working on figuring out what to use the PF keys for. The Top row are some R1 SA keycaps, the rest is MT3 Susuwatari. I went with Hako Trues, since this will be my office keyboard. I like the slight bump and the heavier springs that keep me from bottoming out too hard.

[bkrownd]

  I don't have any practical use for a Boston, but it looks awesome!  I wouldn't do any backlighting, since it's a retro theme kind of thing for me and the only fancy lighting we had Back In The Day was the blinkenlights and nixie/numitron tubes in the racks.  Reminds me of the days of booting the machine by setting the rocker switches on the front panel, which felt kind of like hand-cranking the electrons. 

[hvontres]

  I don't have any practical use for a Boston, but it looks awesome!  I wouldn't do any backlighting, since it's a retro theme kind of thing for me and the only fancy lighting we had Back In The Day was the blinkenlights and nixie/numitron tubes in the racks.  Reminds me of the days of booting the machine by setting the rocker switches on the front panel, which felt kind of like hand-cranking the electrons. 

Practical??? When has that ever stopped any of us from building something Crazy.

The back lighting is fully controllable through QMK and can be turned off as well. I kind of like the green glow in the dark, but if you don't want it it is a easy as not putting in the LED's. Of course, if you're a relative noob like me and put them under the switches, getting them back out would be a real pain.

[econeuler]

Curently breaking in my new work keyboard :

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This is actually a test mule to test out MT3 keycaps and Hako True's for when I do get around to making a true custom build :) (guess what that will be :) )

Been using this Beauty for a bit now:

Show Image

I decided to go with green underlighting for now:

Show Image

I was lucky enough to get one of Pylon's beta Boston kits. I love the layout, still working on figuring out what to use the PF keys for. The Top row are some R1 SA keycaps, the rest is MT3 Susuwatari. I went with Hako Trues, since this will be my office keyboard. I like the slight bump and the heavier springs that keep me from bottoming out too hard.

Nice  :thumb:

[tucvbif]

My experiment with layout. Partly successful. Most important that I got an experience.

[tehfrawg]

My latest...

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What keyboard is this?

Looks like a NiZ 87 key model with dev/tty

[retoid]

First customised keeb before full build - GK61X with mixed XDA caps. I found this profile to be surprisingly pleasant despite no love for it among this community.

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Looks nice! May I ask what switches you're using on this one?

[LASERman Projects]

First customised keeb before full build - GK61X with mixed XDA caps. I found this profile to be surprisingly pleasant despite no love for it among this community.

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Looks nice! May I ask what switches you're using on this one?

This was my starter hot-swap board where I tried various switches from Gat Brown to Zillents. This leaded to my current daily driver:


And this one is Varmilo Miya 68 Pro Dual factory customised with Zealio 67g and per key keycap colour choice (and many other options like LASERed tag).
I am so happy with result I went for 2nd one for work and dressed it in Carbon.

[jaekid]

KBD67! FTW Looking forward to SIX5 N9NE!!

[Sup]

Build a cheapo 60% Tray mount again after 3 years for some nostalgia reasons and i think it came out pretty nice.

[aegrotatio]

Long time no see, Geekhack!  I'm using the boring tenkeyless Cooler Master CM Storm Quick Fire Rapid keyboards with Brown switches. I bought a few on sale several years ago to stock up because they just kinda wear out after a few years of daily pounding.  Weirdly, it's the "O" key that fails first, and two of them failed just days before the 5-year warranty expired.

[Bodhief]

Just built a VEGA 65 and have been using that, but I switch off and on between two KBD19x, a D65 that I just built (it's my favorite), and Drop CTRL (too Thocky for me).  Favorite switch has got to be the Bobas.. They are silent AF and have very little wobble. 

[JohnAJ]

I am new here. Currently trying out a Fujitsu FKB8530, which is a split keyboard from the 90s using domes with sliders.



I'm actually liking it a lot! I have never this switch design before, and while the keys might be a bit mushy for some, I find them much nicer than "standard" rubber domes. There are no issues whatsoever with binding, which is the biggest problem I usually have with normal rubber domes. Keys are very consistent and smooth. I might even like the feel of them a bit better than my Topre board...

I would prefer some more keys, like Home, End, arrow keys etc. I've added a few AutoHotKey bindings for those keys, though, and it works rather well.

[tp4tissue]

I am new here. Currently trying out a Fujitsu FKB8530, which is a split keyboard from the 90s using domes with sliders.

(Attachment Link)

I'm actually liking it a lot! I have never this switch design before, and while the keys might be a bit mushy for some, I find them much nicer than "standard" rubber domes. There are no issues whatsoever with binding, which is the biggest problem I usually have with normal rubber domes. Keys are very consistent and smooth. I might even like the feel of them a bit better than my Topre board...

I would prefer some more keys, like Home, End, arrow keys etc. I've added a few AutoHotKey bindings for those keys, though, and it works rather well.

Looks gud fam'

Needs more tenting.

[JohnAJ]

I am new here. Currently trying out a Fujitsu FKB8530, which is a split keyboard from the 90s using domes with sliders.

Looks gud fam'

Needs more tenting.

Yeah, unfortunately the two parts can't be angled on their own!

[tp4tissue]

I am new here. Currently trying out a Fujitsu FKB8530, which is a split keyboard from the 90s using domes with sliders.

Looks gud fam'

Needs more tenting.

Yeah, unfortunately the two parts can't be angled on their own!

Disassemble, apply books under center edge.

[kajahtaa]

Fortitude60. hb silent tactile v2.2

[cheater]

Currently: Filco Majestouch, Japanese version. Hope to be using soon: my Model F. Might wait off until I can convert a Model M with the F's guts, though.

[econeuler]

I am new here. Currently trying out a Fujitsu FKB8530, which is a split keyboard from the 90s using domes with sliders.

Looks gud fam'

Needs more tenting.

Yeah, unfortunately the two parts can't be angled on their own!

Disassemble, apply books under center edge.

(Attachment Link)

Haha
are you using tenting on your ergodox?

[yui]

Disassemble, apply books under center edge.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]
[/quote]
definitely not number 5, which one was it? (or was it a completely other film? i am talking about short circuit for those who do not know)

[moosekeyboards]

Curently breaking in my new work keyboard :

Show Image

This is actually a test mule to test out MT3 keycaps and Hako True's for when I do get around to making a true custom build :) (guess what that will be :) )

Been using this Beauty for a bit now:

Show Image

I decided to go with green underlighting for now:

Show Image

I was lucky enough to get one of Pylon's beta Boston kits. I love the layout, still working on figuring out what to use the PF keys for. The Top row are some R1 SA keycaps, the rest is MT3 Susuwatari. I went with Hako Trues, since this will be my office keyboard. I like the slight bump and the heavier springs that keep me from bottoming out too hard.

that's beefy and beautiful

[Leslieann]

Novelkeys Aluminum Edition 2.0
Zeal 62g Zilent v2 with 39g springs
HK Gaming thick PBT

Magnetic cable, lubed and band-aid modded switches and stabs and a little keyboard cat to finish it off.

[moosekeyboards]

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Novelkeys Aluminum Edition 2.0
Zeal 62g Zilent v2 with 39g springs
HK Gaming thick PBT

Magnetic cable, lubed and band-aid modded switches and stabs and a little keyboard cat to finish it off.

39g! wow that is super light. 

[econeuler]

Is it 39g actuation or bottom out? I use 50g bottom out atm. How do you like them?
Edit: ah didn't think about that they are tactiles, so then actuation I guess, can you even have 39g bottom out without it being sluggish on tactiles?

[Leslieann]

Is it 39g actuation or bottom out? I use 50g bottom out atm. How do you like them?
Edit: ah didn't think about that they are tactiles, so then actuation I guess, can you even have 39g bottom out without it being sluggish on tactiles?

39g bottom out.
This is on the extreme side for tactiles, but they do take a lot of extra work to do.

You can get away with 205 (about 150 viscosity) just barely on light to medium tactile switches (browns/Pro Purple), it will feel a bit sluggish until the grease settles, but that happens pretty fast. On something with super high tactility like blues or 62g Zeals, it takes a lot more precision and patience for them to get settled in even with something thinner than 205 (I used 130 viscosity). Most did this in with just a few presses, a few needed a bit more but some will put up a fight and need either a rework or several dozen presses or more. Basically it's better to use an oil as opposed to grease on something like this.

Once settled they won't feel sluggish but they certainly aren't as crisp as stock springs, that takes a week or two of use before they get that back. I had ordered various lubes a while back but forgot I had a 103/105 equivalent (about 60 viscosity) until I was nearly done so I'm now stuck waiting out the settling period. On the other hand, I prefer the smoother feel of thicker lube, it just takes a bit more time and work to get it right.

So it's doable, it's just a pain in the neck.

This was to be my 3rd board with this spring rate so I stocked up during the Black Friday sale.

[econeuler]

Is it 39g actuation or bottom out? I use 50g bottom out atm. How do you like them?
Edit: ah didn't think about that they are tactiles, so then actuation I guess, can you even have 39g bottom out without it being sluggish on tactiles?

39g bottom out.
This is on the extreme side for tactiles, but they do take a lot of extra work to do.

You can get away with 205 (about 150 viscosity) just barely on light to medium tactile switches (browns/Pro Purple), it will feel a bit sluggish until the grease settles, but that happens pretty fast. On something with super high tactility like blues or 62g Zeals, it takes a lot more precision and patience for them to get settled in even with something thinner than 205 (I used 130 viscosity). Most did this in with just a few presses, a few needed a bit more but some will put up a fight and need either a rework or several dozen presses or more. Basically it's better to use an oil as opposed to grease on something like this.

Once settled they won't feel sluggish but they certainly aren't as crisp as stock springs, that takes a week or two of use before they get that back. I had ordered various lubes a while back but forgot I had a 103/105 equivalent (about 60 viscosity) until I was nearly done so I'm now stuck waiting out the settling period. On the other hand, I prefer the smoother feel of thicker lube, it just takes a bit more time and work to get it right.

So it's doable, it's just a pain in the neck.

This was to be my 3rd board with this spring rate so I stocked up during the Black Friday sale.
(Attachment Link)

Very interesting, I'm on my way to try lighter springs as well, I've made a board with Gat Clears (linears with around 50g bottom out), and i've bought some springs ranging from 45-50g, however I've not thought about using them with tactile stems, but maybe I should give that I try as well! nice!

[Leslieann]

Very interesting, I'm on my way to try lighter springs as well, I've made a board with Gat Clears (linears with around 50g bottom out), and i've bought some springs ranging from 45-50g, however I've not thought about using them with tactile stems, but maybe I should give that I try as well! nice!

It's not as straightforward as it is with linears.
Switches can get more tactile or less tactile depending on the curve, my Zeals (high tactiity) went up in tactility, my Kailh Purple Pros (medium) didn't change and I've seen others that didn't change at all. What you start out with may not be what you end up with.

Too light of springs can also have other weird consequences for example my Purple Pros became a hair trigger. On the GMMK where they're installed I have to run a stiffer spring on my left shift because of how I rest my pinky when playing games or using CAD, merely brushing against it was triggering it. It actually took me a day or two to figure out what was happening as all of a sudden things started acting funny and I didn't realize it was being pressed enough to be hit but not often enough to catch it. Luckily it was hot swap so it was an easy fix. Sort of...

Drag from stabs can obviously be an issue but so can a tight plate, the locking tabs on the switches (or manufacturing tolerances of the pcb and plate) can distort the housing a tiny bit creating a bit of friction. It can start to show it's head on something mid to high 40's depending on tactility but any lower and it takes almost nothing to catch them up, as such a switch will work great in your hand then get inserted and is now sluggish or even sticks. Obviously this is a lot of fun when you're using a soldered board (not) but hot swaps actually tighten the tolerances between the pcb, pins and the plate so they actually have a lot more problems not less and while the hot swap makes it easier to remove the switch and re-work it, it's far more difficult to actually correct it and may even require moving the switch to a different spot or even using a different switch altogether.

You will also become hyper sensitive to stiction and bind. If you are used to a 65g spring and this happens and the initial force ramps to say 75g you might notice it. If however if you are using 39g and it sticks to 75g, that's almost double the norm, I guarantee you will notice and if it ramps up much more it's like hitting a wall.

There's a reason little to no switches ship with such light springs, it hides a lot of other faults.

[econeuler]

Very interesting, I'm on my way to try lighter springs as well, I've made a board with Gat Clears (linears with around 50g bottom out), and i've bought some springs ranging from 45-50g, however I've not thought about using them with tactile stems, but maybe I should give that I try as well! nice!

It's not as straightforward as it is with linears.
Switches can get more tactile or less tactile depending on the curve, my Zeals (high tactiity) went up in tactility, my Kailh Purple Pros (medium) didn't change and I've seen others that didn't change at all. What you start out with may not be what you end up with.

Too light of springs can also have other weird consequences for example my Purple Pros became a hair trigger. On the GMMK where they're installed I have to run a stiffer spring on my left shift because of how I rest my pinky when playing games or using CAD, merely brushing against it was triggering it. It actually took me a day or two to figure out what was happening as all of a sudden things started acting funny and I didn't realize it was being pressed enough to be hit but not often enough to catch it. Luckily it was hot swap so it was an easy fix. Sort of...

Drag from stabs can obviously be an issue but so can a tight plate, the locking tabs on the switches (or manufacturing tolerances of the pcb and plate) can distort the housing a tiny bit creating a bit of friction. It can start to show it's head on something mid to high 40's depending on tactility but any lower and it takes almost nothing to catch them up, as such a switch will work great in your hand then get inserted and is now sluggish or even sticks. Obviously this is a lot of fun when you're using a soldered board (not) but hot swaps actually tighten the tolerances between the pcb, pins and the plate so they actually have a lot more problems not less and while the hot swap makes it easier to remove the switch and re-work it, it's far more difficult to actually correct it and may even require moving the switch to a different spot or even using a different switch altogether.

You will also become hyper sensitive to stiction and bind. If you are used to a 65g spring and this happens and the initial force ramps to say 75g you might notice it. If however if you are using 39g and it sticks to 75g, that's almost double the norm, I guarantee you will notice and if it ramps up much more it's like hitting a wall.

There's a reason little to no switches ship with such light springs, it hides a lot of other faults.

I see! Nice that you have experimented so much and ended up with something that works! Have you stopped using jailhouse blues? I use Gat Clears with Super Lube PFTE (as light as Krytox 105), and it works nice, I have them in a Corne build atm:



Yes I used 68g spring before and they feel soooo heavy now..

[Leslieann]

I see! Nice that you have experimented so much and ended up with something that works! Have you stopped using jailhouse blues?

Awesome, I've been tempted to get a Corne.

Thanks, I keep the Filco at the ready since it always just works despite the battle scars, of which it has many.
I've actually tried to replace it many times but it always finds a way back onto my desk for one reason or another. I've bought quite a few boards thinking they would replace it or lead to a replacement and they all failed so I hate to say it's retired just yet.

BTW, I have two boards with Jailhouse Blues.
These switches feel pretty close to hand wired Jailhouse Blues with clipped springs that are in the Filco, minus the sound. I have another board with J-spaced Jailhouse Blues and those feel like Speed switches. So really there's little reason to Jailhouse anymore.

[econeuler]

I see! Nice that you have experimented so much and ended up with something that works! Have you stopped using jailhouse blues?

Awesome, I've been tempted to get a Corne.

Thanks, I keep the Filco at the ready since it always just works despite the battle scars, of which it has many.
I've actually tried to replace it many times but it always finds a way back onto my desk for one reason or another. I've bought quite a few boards thinking they would replace it or lead to a replacement and they all failed so I hate to say it's retired just yet.

BTW, I have two boards with Jailhouse Blues.
These switches feel pretty close to hand wired Jailhouse Blues with clipped springs that are in the Filco, minus the sound. I have another board with J-spaced Jailhouse Blues and those feel like Speed switches. So really there's little reason to Jailhouse anymore.

I actually like the sandwich cases, the feel quite nice imo, maybe they don't look fancy, but they are top mount and feel good to type on. I got the pcb and the case for around $60 I think.

Haha I understand, also nice to switch it up and use different keyboards  I actually use the same keymap even though I use different layouts, I just don't use some keys. So I always type on a "corne layout"

[wmyfrnds]

work: some garbage Logitech membrane keyboard but I don't have much of a choice
home: either durgod fusion or the anne pro 2 both with browns in them

[rlx]

Wow some great looking KB's. I'm using a DROP CTRL that is pretty stock with the exception of some foam and the LED's turned way down.

[yui]

going from model M to FK2001. the Focus is even louder and heavier than the M... i never expected that to be possible but now i kinda understand what chyros is on about, although still like my M better i would not mind having to type on alps only

[bkrownd]

  Sitting in my office tapping on my old Happy Hacking Lite 2.  Feels so mooooshy now, but I loved it back when it was the only compact keyboard I had ever used.  It will be displaced from my seldom-used desk when my second GMMK arrives, going back to being my spare keyboard at the summit facility. 

[quadibloc]

I had to put my Model M aside, as my new computer doesn't have a PS/2 input. Currently, I'm using a tenkeyless Cooler Master mechanical.

[CosminOance]

Right now, right now? MagicRefiner Mk14 40$ club where you at??

Seriously.

It has T1s soldered on it though. Different stabs, too

[Yato]

atm razer huntsman TE, but im waiting for my dz60rgb pcb with glorious holy switches   

[funkmon]

I kludged together a layout from spare, unused Model M keys. It's a HHKB with a normal backspace, and the split shift isn't a function layer.

This is going to sound really dumb but here's how I have it.

Caps lock is control

LCTRL is CLCK

RALT is F4

Menu is F5

RCTRL is Layer

Layer is F6

Numpad is standard numpad with the top keys being Num lock, minus, and plus. Bottom right is enter.

[cest73]

With awful cropping bad focus and lousy camera (on a phone) :

G81 1800 modded with TKC-1800 and Kalih RED




The donor of Kalih RED with Kalih BOX burnt oranges

[Maledicted]

going from model M to FK2001. the Focus is even louder and heavier than the M... i never expected that to be possible but now i kinda understand what chyros is on about, although still like my M better i would not mind having to type on alps only

I have never thought of my FK-2001 as particularly heavy, but I suppose I routinely use keyboards that weigh much more than a Model M. I swear this OmniKey 101 is significantly heavier than my 1987 Model M, though the internet seems to suggest otherwise. I just now finally finished cleaning the case and caps of my FK-2001 and drilled out the broken tab on the dust cover. I replaced it with a nylon screw, nut and some rubber washers. Works like new (I may start a thread about that if anybody else also has a broken dust cover and is interested). Alas, it only has white Alps. Does yours have blues?

I had to put my Model M aside, as my new computer doesn't have a PS/2 input. Currently, I'm using a tenkeyless Cooler Master mechanical.

Almost any cheap PS/2 to USB adapter should work with your Model M. You could also build or purchase a Soarer's Converter or try out TMK, both of which will work with more arcane/odd keyboards than you would think as well. What Cooler Master are you rocking? I particularly like the QuickFire Rapid myself ... although I never use mine, since it still has the stock MX blues in it.

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I kludged together a layout from spare, unused Model M keys. It's a HHKB with a normal backspace, and the split shift isn't a function layer.

Looks good. Those industrial grey F77s are sexy as hell. Have you now fully shed the heresy of the Model M and embraced the one true buckling spring?



I'm not currently using it (I'm tri-wielding another Matias, an OmniKey 101 and my good old K70) but I was using this earlier ... in my car. Both of my cars have android head units now, and both have a Matias mini keyboard of some kind with magnetic USB cables. If I get adventurous I'll either find a way to mount them, or find a way to mount one or two TG3 "cop" keyboards.