The Bike Thread!

[Spopepro]

I'm starting to build myself a fixie for town riding. Currently browsing craigslist for vintage steel frames. Anyone have recommendations for good budget fixed cranksets?

Sugino (cheap/good quality)
SRAM (middle ground/great all around performance and no flex)
Phil wood (baller/bling)
Paul components (baller/bling)

awesome! I had kind of already found my way to suginos, but its nice to have the assurance that they're actually good considering the prices I'm looking at.
I'm looking at a samurai shogun bike on CL for like $150, seems like a pretty great deal to me, but I'd love input on that as well.

I went for the sram s300 on my previous bike. Make sure it's 165mm  or you won't clear corners and that your crank fit your frame (not so much with bb but with the crank arm hitting the frame. Happened to a friend of mine.)

If any crank hits your frame up to something dumb like a 195mm custom crank you have the wrong BB spindle length.  I would also check immediately to verify that the chainline is correct (cog and chainring on exactly the same plane).  A bad chainline on a fixed gear is a very, very dangerous situation.  If a 170/175mm crank hits your chainstay and you have a good chainline then your frame was constructed very much incorrectly or has been badly bent.

[dante]

I tried fixie for a while and just couldn't get into it.  Imagine a [at the time] 300 pounder riding a skinny ass Debernardi - ugh.  I totally understand why folks use their legs to brake on this bike.  Even with front/rear brakes my mind immediately wanted to use my legs instead.

Any of you try out that new 2 speed automatic hub?  This sounds promising.

[rm-rf]

new old bike...new paint... will post more later.
but i just got a sweet headbadge.
water drops on the top tube...
dipped yellow/blue swirl chain stay...
going to dip the fork also. orange/neonpink.
gota love those rattle cans.

[JaccoW]

Picked up this Gazelle Grand Tourist bike yesterday.



Bought it to turn it into a touring bike. These Sturmey Archer hub + drum brake bikes are really low drag and low maintenance.
Planning to put a drop bar + bar-end shifter and a different saddle on it together with a nice chrome front carrier rack.
Might even paint it blue at some point but I'd have to check the price on that. And I'm kind if digging the stickers on it.

More

[Hellcatz]

I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value 

[JaccoW]

I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value 

These go for about €60-80 over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion.

But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.

After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack or a fancy Pass and Stow one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.

[demik]

[Spopepro]

I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value 

These go for about €60-80 over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion.

But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.

After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack or a fancy Pass and Stow one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.

The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.

Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.

[JaccoW]

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lol @ the training wheels

[JaccoW]

I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value 

These go for about €60-80 over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion.

But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.

After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack or a fancy Pass and Stow one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.

The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.

Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.

The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.

[Spopepro]

I would not suggest painting a frame like that with such a nice paint job on such an old bike. Once you do they will lose all their resale value 

These go for about €60-80 over here as they are built more like a sporty citybike. I see plenty of them around here as daily commuters.
I'm more concerned about it being worth the cost. Resale value is minimal since it's not that good for a fixie conversion.

But don't worry, I will be renovating the technical bits first. Replace all cables and tyres then overhaul the rear hub and the brakes.

After that I was planning to throw on a front rack like this Pelago rack or a fancy Pass and Stow one.
Would have loved a Urbix rack on the rear but it turns out they stopped making them this year.

The fork does not appear to have any of the rackmounts needed, unless I'm missing something.

Also, I don't have the geometry charts, but you have to watch the trail if you're planning on loaded touring. The rim dyno is sweet though.

The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.

Higher trail allows for more stability at speed, especially with an unloaded wheel (i.e. hands not on the bars). The most extreme example is the steher bikes, that have more or less inverted forks to allow for tons of stability at very high speeds.

The issue you will find with standard trail when loaded is wheel flop at low speeds and increased fatigue while turning. The higher the trail the more the front end of a bike actually dips down when turning the wheel. It's not noticeable until you put a bunch of extra weight over the wheel that you're now lifting and lowering every time you turn. if your pack is light, then it's not a big deal. If you're going on a multi day tour and your relying on your front pack to carry most/all of your gear, you might find it unpleasant. But true low trail bikes are not great handling bikes when unloaded, so if you're packing light, or using it unloaded often, low trail isn't a feature, as in those cases it's less stable.

[drewba]

Picked up my first road bike yesterday, '09 Fuji Roubaix Pro! The owner said he put fewer than 500 miles on it before buying a triathlon bike and was even willing to drop the price a few bucks because I came to him to pick it up, so I feel like I got a great deal. I took it out for a few miles...holy crap is it different than riding on a mountain bike or cruiser (duh I guess). My first impressions were that it is unbelievably light and fast but also rigid & twitchy. I don't feel comfortable positioning my hands on the drops yet, but on top of the hoods felt fine. I'm impressed that the shifters & brakes are integrated so closely together but I've already braked when I accidentally meant to shift, I need to train my brain on that. I noticed myself taking corners differently and anticipating braking earlier.

Are SPD instead of SPD-SL shoes fine? I currently have pedals for both but think I'll be fine losing some performance the SL provides for the flexibility/comfort that SPD has. I love the idea of having one pair of shoes for both my bikes as well as being able to walk around like a normal person. I have no plans to do any sort of racing, just some long rides.

Also do any of you take your road bike out on crushed limestone trails? I see people doing it near me frequently but I'm guessing they bought new tires and stay away from bumps on the trail.

[Spopepro]

Congrats. If all you have ever known is MTB and "comfort" bikes, the efficiency of a road bike will blow you away.

Remember that SPD-SLs require a 3 bolt pattern for cleats and SPD pedals benefit from shoes with a sole (allowing for more stability on the pedal). I'd just run SPDs. Having too many shoes is a pain.  I use crankbros eggbeaters on all my bikes except for my track bike, where I run SPD-SLs cranked all the way with a toe strap.

You *can* ride your bike wherever you want, and I've taken my road racing bike on twisty singletrack to take a shortcut home. Riding gravel and dirt roads is most comfortable with a 28-34c width tire. I doubt you can fit bigger than a 25c on that bike. It still could be fun if your gravel roads are well maintained. I find the continental gatorskin 25c tire to be comfortable enough, extremely durable, and good in all conditions. It's what I keep on my training ride wheels.

[drewba]

Remember that SPD-SLs require a 3 bolt pattern for cleats and SPD pedals benefit from shoes with a sole (allowing for more stability on the pedal). I'd just run SPDs. Having too many shoes is a pain.  I use crankbros eggbeaters on all my bikes except for my track bike, where I run SPD-SLs cranked all the way with a toe strap.

You *can* ride your bike wherever you want, and I've taken my road racing bike on twisty singletrack to take a shortcut home. Riding gravel and dirt roads is most comfortable with a 28-34c width tire. I doubt you can fit bigger than a 25c on that bike. It still could be fun if your gravel roads are well maintained. I find the continental gatorskin 25c tire to be comfortable enough, extremely durable, and good in all conditions. It's what I keep on my training ride wheels.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will end up with SPDs so I don't have to worry about having two pairs of shoes. That's not really in my budget anyway.

I asked about riding on limestone/gravel trails because I'm not sure how much of a beating a road bike can take, specifically one with a carbon fork & stem. For example, there are a few sections of my limestone trail that aren't maintained that well (potholes & MTB tracks) as well as bridges that you can't exactly traverse smoothly. Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.

[Spopepro]

Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.

The short answer is that the bike is fine, probably.

The longer answer is that thee is some danger that if you hit something hard you'll wreck the wheels or a fork.  Since you MTB, you know the importance of unweighting the bike when going over rocks or choppy stuff.  So long as you aren't just ramming into stuff you're ok.   This is also assuming the bike is in good repair (wheels true under even tension, bolts are torqued to spec, fork expansion nut is installed correctly, headset correctly loaded, etc.)

But if you know how to ride a bike, you can ride it anywhere:

[drewba]

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Even when I took a quick spin on the road there was a fair amount of uneven pavement that made me uneasy hitting it going fast. I suspect I'm just being too cautious because my new shiny toy doesn't feel nearly as sturdy as my MTB.

The short answer is that the bike is fine, probably.

The longer answer is that thee is some danger that if you hit something hard you'll wreck the wheels or a fork.  Since you MTB, you know the importance of unweighting the bike when going over rocks or choppy stuff.  So long as you aren't just ramming into stuff you're ok.   This is also assuming the bike is in good repair (wheels true under even tension, bolts are torqued to spec, fork expansion nut is installed correctly, headset correctly loaded, etc.)

But if you know how to ride a bike, you can ride it anywhere:

Good points, thanks again. Those guys are effin monsters!

[Mr Mulch]

Got this baby out last night:

[JaccoW]

Got this baby out last night:

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Sweet ride.  :thumb:

The Pelago has the parts to mount it in the fender eyelets or dropouts as well.
I don't think there are any geometry charts for this bike available anymore. Seeing as how it is probably from the 70's. That being said, it is still a pretty low-trail bike so no handed riding is easy.

Higher trail allows for more stability at speed, especially with an unloaded wheel (i.e. hands not on the bars). The most extreme example is the steher bikes, that have more or less inverted forks to allow for tons of stability at very high speeds.

The issue you will find with standard trail when loaded is wheel flop at low speeds and increased fatigue while turning. The higher the trail the more the front end of a bike actually dips down when turning the wheel. It's not noticeable until you put a bunch of extra weight over the wheel that you're now lifting and lowering every time you turn. if your pack is light, then it's not a big deal. If you're going on a multi day tour and your relying on your front pack to carry most/all of your gear, you might find it unpleasant. But true low trail bikes are not great handling bikes when unloaded, so if you're packing light, or using it unloaded often, low trail isn't a feature, as in those cases it's less stable.

It's a bit tricky to measure but it seems like it has a trail of 45mm or so. Decidedly low trail it seems. Pretty much what I am used to. We will see what happens when I attach a rack after the summer and load it up.  :)

For now I am just getting the bike in top working order and those old English hubs can be fickle but at least they are easy to take apart.  :))

[funderburker]

Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter.

[sek1ne]

Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter.

Show Image

That is a really nice looking bike.

[funderburker]

Got this bad boy two weeks ago. Went for a small off-road ride last weekend. Need to get a bit more aggressive tires for off-road but it's a beast already, at least for me. Rolls smooth like butter.

Show Image

That is a really nice looking bike.

Thanks! :)

Got a great deal at Wiggle bike shop and wanted something that looked good, was my size and could be modified to all weather/riding conditions. The frame allows me to add mudguards/bike racks and has a clearance of 45mm. So it can be a touring bike and a CX bike depending on the needs.

[tp4tissue]

Went outside today to fix the bicycle tires..


How important is it to make sure the  Inner tube is rotated precisely..

I feel like I can't get a gauge on whether the tube is perfectly aligned with the side wall..


I've adjusted the valve part so I know it's at least properly oriented @ the valve, but the rest of the tube.

How do I know the rest of the tube is rotated correctly.

[Hellcatz]

it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat

[tp4tissue]

it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat

Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related

[Spopepro]

it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat

Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related

Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on.  You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.

Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.

[tp4tissue]

it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat

Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related

Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on.  You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.

Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.

Can you clarify,   what is "  the bead "


Is the powder to help the tube seat more easily with the side wall ?

[Spopepro]

it doesn't matter. Just make sure the inner tube isnt pinched by the tire and the rim or you will get flat prob a good idea to run your finger along the tire to make sure nothing is stuck in the tire that would cause another flat

Should I oil, or put powder on anything? (tire, tube, rim) related

Some people will powder their tubes, but I don't and it's not necessary. If you have *really* tight tires (I mean breaking tire lever tight) using some soapy water on the bead can help it go on.  You never want to use any persistent lubricant around rims, as it can get on the braking surface and keep you from stopping.

Additional tips: start feeding the bead in away from the valve stem. This allows you to do the final part at the stem, which allows you to push the tube up and away from the bead and keeping it from getting pinched. It can help to inflate the tire a little bit (just to seat the bead) and then let the air out and just kind of squeeze along the tire letting the tube settle in place before fully inflating.

Can you clarify,   what is "  the bead "


Is the powder to help the tube seat more easily with the side wall ?

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

[tp4tissue]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt.. 

[Spopepro]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..

Talcum/baby powder.

[tp4tissue]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..

Talcum/baby powder.

CAN i use flour ?

These tubes already cost me $6 each

[Spopepro]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..

Talcum/baby powder.

CAN i use flour ?

These tubes already cost me $6 each

Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.

Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.

[tp4tissue]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..

Talcum/baby powder.

CAN i use flour ?

These tubes already cost me $6 each

Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.

Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.

Woah... the production quality on that one..

Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one..

[Hellcatz]

The ridged edge of the tire the "hooks" into the lip on the rim.

Trading edits here... The idea behind the powder is to keep the tube from sticking to the tire in a weird way before it is fully inflated.

What kind of powder,

I got flour... and powder sugar/salt..

Talcum/baby powder.

CAN i use flour ?

These tubes already cost me $6 each

Nah, it will make a mess. You don't need powder. I don't ever use it.

Here, this is a good video. Ignore the part about the rim band at the beginning. You already have one installed.

Woah... the production quality on that one..

Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one..

Show Image

If you think thats a nice rim you dont wanna see carbon ones especially ones from the brand lightweight

[tp4tissue]

Woah... the production quality on that one..

Now I'm bike conscious because my wheel doesn't look nearly as nice as that one..

Show Image

If you think thats a nice rim you dont wanna see carbon ones especially ones from the brand lightweight

Thanks for the headsup,  I'm definitely not going to google it.

[tp4tissue]

Used bike this morning..  Felt fine.. no exploding..

The tubes says self sealing against punctures,  it's got a picture of this -liquid inside the tube on the box..


Will this liquid come out of the valve if I'm letting the air out when I over pump?

[Hellcatz]

Used bike this morning..  Felt fine.. no exploding..

The tubes says self sealing against punctures,  it's got a picture of this -liquid inside the tube on the box..


Will this liquid come out of the valve if I'm letting the air out when I over pump?

Just buy regular tubes if your roads are not rough and super bumpy. If you tire is inflated to the correct psi then you shouldn't get flats unless something like a nail goes through your tire. If your tube isn't rip to shreds then a normal partch kit should be able to patch the hole. And to answer your questions is no it shouldn't unless you are really trying to squeeze the stuff out.

[tp4tissue]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

[Hellcatz]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi

[Spopepro]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

What size are the tires? It will be marked either as something like 700x23c or 27x1.5"

[tp4tissue]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi

Yea, but there's that thing...

where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi,  because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..

It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..

Short of me riding 100s of trials..  Which would take years...

[Hellcatz]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi

Yea, but there's that thing...

where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi,  because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..

It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..

Short of me riding 100s of trials..  Which would take years...

Think about it this way. The higher the psi the less likely your tire is going to conform to the road ( a smooth one ) and the faster you go because less surface area is touching the road. But if you take this principle and apply it to a bumpy road the high psi tire is not going to conform to little bumps and pebbles. Instead of riding floating over bumps you will be riding on top of them hence making you slower. That why most road cyclist ride anywhere from 90 - 180psi and mountains bikers with a lower psi of anywhere from 30 - 50 psi.

[Spopepro]

How do I determine ideal tire pressure..

What am I feeling for ..

read the tire wall and pump in between the min and max recommended psi

Yea, but there's that thing...

where they say even though you get less rolling resistance with higher psi,  because of the increase in bouncing, you lose that efficiency..

It's all very confusing, because I don't see how this could be empirically measured outside of the lab..

Short of me riding 100s of trials..  Which would take years...

You don't have to perform experiments, they already have. You're right (I think, the sentence is confusing) that a tire with some flexibility has a lower rolling resistance because it's not getting bounced around by every little imperfection in the road. These are tiny, tiny forces and probably aren't noticeable by humans. What is more noticeable is the substatial improvement in ride quality and comfort when your tire is correctly acting as a form of suspension.

Generally speaking, unless you're racing on an indoor World Cup level velodrome, you want to run your tires as low as you can without getting pinch flats. Typically this is the bottom of the range listed on the tire. Usually around 100psi for 23c tires, 90 for 25c, 30 for 2.3" MTB tires... and so on. If you're heavier, you might need a little more (like 5psi). This is hard to do by feel because the stiffness of the tire can fool you.

[trenzafeeds]

Anyone else been watching La Vuelta?

[henz]

Anyone else been watching La Vuelta?

Not worth watching any bikerace without the almighty pantani!

[Spopepro]

I generally avoid posting my bikes here because it would be something like posting your OTD in a thread of people talking about their favorite production mechanical, but I'm a super excited my new bike is finally done.  It's been somewhere around 3 years since I started the order.  The builder just finished it and took some pictures before boxing it up to send it my way:


Progress shots can be found in a gallery here.

The last time I was hit by a car (yes... more than once) I broke my clavicle and it never healed, even after surgery and a plate.  I'm mostly OK, I have full range of motion, but I can't wear a backpack while riding anymore.  So I went with the most overkill possible solution.  I'll be doing my ~23mi commute each way a few days a week again, and I'm super stoked.

[tp4tissue]

What makes a good bicycle..

[Hellcatz]

I generally avoid posting my bikes here because it would be something like posting your OTD in a thread of people talking about their favorite production mechanical, but I'm a super excited my new bike is finally done.  It's been somewhere around 3 years since I started the order.  The builder just finished it and took some pictures before boxing it up to send it my way:

Show Image

Show Image

Progress shots can be found in a gallery here.

The last time I was hit by a car (yes... more than once) I broke my clavicle and it never healed, even after surgery and a plate.  I'm mostly OK, I have full range of motion, but I can't wear a backpack while riding anymore.  So I went with the most overkill possible solution.  I'll be doing my ~23mi commute each way a few days a week again, and I'm super stoked.

Wow  that looks amazing. Prob cost an arm and a leg ( a clavicle for you XD)
geared hub or motor can really tell with the pictures

[dohbot]

Cool Bikes guys!

[iMav]

Here's my "bike".

[Spopepro]

Wow  that looks amazing. Prob cost an arm and a leg ( a clavicle for you XD)
geared hub or motor can really tell with the pictures

It's the Di2 Alfine internally geared hub. No motor.