I just noticed my Korean board has two different whites! a daylight white and a milky white. I had it on the daylight. I prefer the milky now. I figure any RGB board could do this.
If you go and look at modern LED light bulbs, they'll describe them as different types of white. "soft" white vs "daylight", etc. You'll see the same in projector image settings. "Daylight" is supposed to be as close to a natural white as possible. "Soft" white is usually more like an old-school incandescent, with a bit of a yellow glow. A lot of times, they'll screw up daylight and go too far towards more of a blue tint. Any true RGB leds should definitely be able to run the gamut. I imagine the ones with separate red, green, and blue diodes might have trouble, even with a good diffuser.
That F77 I found on Ebay came in. Words cannot describe it. It does feel lighter than an original F, for some reason, maybe a difference in manufacture of the modern springs. It also, interestingly, feels a little less smooth than my F ATs and F XT, but maybe that's because of a lack of wear. Certainly still much smoother and consistent than any Model M I have felt. It took hours to get the flippers and springs configured right so as to not stick (I imagine that's why the seller gave up and sold it), but first impressions are that replacement of either should never be necessary, it just seems to take some tweaking. I'll probably go into detail on my thoughts in the official new Model F thread. Unicomp left out my second Geekhack key, not sure about keeping the eject key, and I have at least one random placeholder for now. I also plan do do an aviator connector mod, so it isn't ready for the spotlight yet anyway.
First impressions are great though. Most of the caps were pulled from a 1988 Model M, for now. The rest are Unicomp.