Noob struggling with chattering/unresponsive keys on new Filco

[thrashette]

Hey, all! I've come across this forum on numerous occasions on my quest to fix this problem... I've been unsuccessful so I've come for help. I heard Filcos were pretty good keyboards, so I got one new on Amazon for only $100. I've had it for only 4 months or so, but many keys are giving me trouble. I have to pound on them slowly, one by one for them to register or not repeat... so it's taking a long time to type this for a person who's used to 90 wpm. o-o It seems like a localized issue-- the problem keys are T, Y, U, I, O, H, J, K, L, V, B, N, and M. It's starting to occur in left shift, too. Granted, I'm a pretty heavy smoker, but I dust thoroughly every month. I've checked for residue with a damp q-tip to no avail and air dusted inside the switches while they were depressed. I've never spilled any liquids on the keyboard. I don't really know anything about keyboards and I'm not sure what to do. I feel like there's something like stuck under the switches, or maybe if these particular keys have a shared source of power () that could be failing. I don't really know about warranty stuff, and I'm not sure if the presence of ash/hair (I have long, thick hair and shed a lot ) would void the warranty anyway. I don't mind getting down and dirty, though. Any advice would be appreciated. The model in question is a Filco Majestouch-2 Ninja FKBN104M/EFB2.

[dante]

You sound like a candidate for Topre.

[thrashette]

Are they good for clueless people who chain smoke?

[dorkvader]

smoke would probably not cause your issues: don't worry about that until a few years I'd say. About warranty, I've always taken apart all my stuff: one of the best parts about mech KBs is that they are easy to repair (usually).

It's possible that they all share a common "row" on the keyboard (I don't have a filco PCB photo nearby that I want to check). In which case it could be that "pin" on the controller (detachable ) is making a bad connection or something.

everything from a crack in the PCB to an unlikely amount of bad switches to a mis-soldered joint to a bad connection between the PCB and controller (to a bad USB cable) could be the issue. all of these are repairable depending. If you decide to scrape off the warranty sticker, re-seat the controller, look for gunk (clean with isopropyl 90+% ) maybe take some photos and check back with us.

Then again, maybe the warranty route is the easiest. I always fix my own stuff so I'm a bit biased.

best of luck

[thrashette]

Thanks for your advice. I am wary about my habit causing this issue, not so much for the residue, but because I'll occasionally have something suddenly absorb my attention (I'm a gamer,) and allow my cigarette to ash in this area. I am vigilant about removing the ash after these events, though, but I'd imagine this is not good. Funny thing is, this happened a lot with my CM Storm over the course of 4 years, along with numerous drink spills (I've since adopted a "beverage tray") and it only began chattering at the end of that 4 year period.

Does anyone know about Filco's warranty? I figure it's probably too late to contact the seller. I'm more of a "fixer" myself, and my dad's an electrical engineer... he types with two fingers, but I bet he could tell if something's "bad" under there. Also, my curiosity is driving me to rip off that damn "O.K." sticker.

[BrewCaps]

You sound like a candidate for Topre.

+1

No chattering on Topres.

[tp4tissue]

this is almost certainly a hairline crack on the PCB.

What you want to do is take all of those affected key,  and bridge the Ground pins as close to the Controller chip as possible.

There are no other ways to fix this..


Take it apart, and we can circle the places you need to solder. for you..

but the rest you gotta do on your own..


The cost to have someone on here who's FAST and Reliable fix it is greater than the replacement cost of that keyboard..


Some n00b might offer to fix it for you for $50 or something... but expect him to take like 9 weeks, and/or give up..



So, yea..

[thrashette]

Oh, damn. Sounds complicated, but worth a shot I suppose. Currently typing on a $10 keyboard from Wal Mart... *shudders* WTF is @.com Lol
I checked Filco's website, and it seems warranties are only valid in Japan? I bought it from some random store on Amazon, so I don't think that will be the way to go. Time to learn.
I'll update with an image once I take it apart. I find it strange that it would be cracked. It hasn't seen any heavy action since I've placed it on the desk and I wonder if it occurred while shipping. I seem to remember some chattering occurring from time to time, but it resolved itself quickly until now. Should've paid more attention before.

[fuzzybaffy]

Topres boards were specifically designed to avoid chattering. From http://deskthority.net/wiki/Topre_switch:

The present invention has been made in consideration of the above situation, and has as its object to provide a keyboard switch wherein constant hysteresis can be obtained without changing the operation characteristics even if an operation value is arbitrarily set, thereby properly preventing chattering, and wherein an operator can know that the operation member has been depressed to a depth corresponding to the operation value.

[SpAmRaY]

I didn't read anything but the part about blowing canned air into the switches, I'm fairly certain that's a bad idea.

[BucklingSpring]

I didn't read anything but the part about blowing canned air into the switches, I'm fairly certain that's a bad idea.

Right - especially if the keyboard is full of ash and tar - not a good mix to spread around.
I've seen computers (fans/cooling) and keyboards failing in poorly ventilated rooms of heavy smokers before. But 4 months seems relatively short for such problems.

Which lead me to think it might be just a plain and simple keyboard defect.

[thrashette]

So! Thanks for your advice, folks. I disassembled it with my dad. It wasn't hard like I thought it'd be. He said the connections on the back of the PCB (the name eludes me... not electronically inclined!) looked "unattractive" but not defective, some of them were a bit yellowed while others were a nice silver. We had an old can of 90s Radio Shack connection cleaner (Lol) and decided to just squirt a bit in the faulty switches, and then pressed on the keys repeatedly. Sounds weird... but it worked. That may have dislodged foreign objects or just cleaned up dirty contacts. It's odd that rubbing alcohol did not solve the issue. Maybe it was the quantity or the thicker consistency of the questionable Radio Shack fluid that did it. I didn't see this suggestion anywhere, so maybe this could help someone!

[tronbeaver]

Thanks for the tip!