I want to build a keyboard with a wooden case, because I like wooden things and want to style my keyboard with a natural aesthetic, and gateron clear switches, because I play a lot of videogames and the reduced travel time would be useful. What board would be best for this combination? I have heard that wood dampens the sound of the keys, would this affect the sound of the plates, making brass or aluminium less "pingy"? Or would I be better going with a standard plastic plate, or a carbon fibre one to acchieve the "thunk"? I have also heard that the clear switches are wobbly, so would filming them or adding o rings reduce or completely eliminate this problem? If that is the case where can I buy pre-lubed/filmed switches, or is that just a waste of money? Where do I find out which PCB is compatible with which switches? Also, what is the advantage of buying a more expensive PCB, other than the more expensive ones having hotswappable functionality?
I appreciate any and all answers I recieve as I am currently very confused so I'll take any information that I can easily get 
What switches have you tried? I have used nothing but MX reds for gaming for years and have thought for a long time now that I should move to something with a heavier spring and not a lighter one. If I rest my fingers on the caps of my K70, I can accidentally actuate switches. I have been (lazily) pondering trying Gateron yellows for this reason.
There are, unfortunately, not a lot of options for wood outside of the 40% and 60% form factors. Outside of this, what is best comes down to preference. I use a sliding keyboard tray for my gaming board ... which is currently a full-sized board, so I have little reason to use anything smaller than a TKL should I need more space, or suddenly become like those who feel they need a tiny keyboard so their t-rex arms can comfortably manipulate both the keyboard and mouse simultaneously. Personally, I wouldn't want to mess with layers just for navigating menus in a game, so I wouldn't go any smaller than a 60% with dedicated arrow keys (cap options are basically nill there). Your preference will be able to narrow this down.
A board is the sum of its parts. Aluminum is about as pingy as it gets and a wood case will only help prevent that ping from reverberating through it. I happen to be someone who doesn't even care about ping, and sometimes even like making a board as pingy as possible, so I would personally take brass with wood because of how well they go together. Those who only want to hear deep thocks would probably point you towards the carbon fiber and/or some sort of polymer, on which I am no expert myself. Every material has its own characteristics, down to how it feels when you bottom out on the plate, which may itself be something you might want to consider.
Wobble goes back to what switches you have tried before, and what about them you like or dislike. Personally, I have never noticed this wobble everyone speaks of without seeking it out. How much or how little a switch wobbles does not factor into the equation for me. If you haven't, you should find out whether or not it does for you. I have read that eliminating it can make a switch sound more solid, so there's at least that. Films should eliminate the wobble, but I have never personally bothered. Filming reduces the gap between the top and bottom of the switch housing, an 0-ring won't address that.
MX and clone switches are compatible with just about any board meant for MX or clone switches. The problems arise mostly with hot swap sockets. Outemu hot swap sockets are too narrow for most switches, whereas something like Kailh sockets fit a wider array of common switches. If you're soldering the switches, there's no reason to worry about it.
The advantage of paying more or less on a PCB is often in the eye of the beholder. Do you want Bluetooth functionality? Do you care what type of USB connector it uses? Do you care what firmware it supports? Do you want support for some obscure layout? If a cheap board checks all of your boxes, and does not have any glaring quality concerns, then there is no advantage in paying more for something else.
If you do end up caring about wobble and acoustics that much, hopefully somebody else that does can chime in here once you've fleshed out more specifically what you may be looking for.
