Author Topic: Router (Read 5347 times)

yester64 · « **on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 20:37:44 »

Hello, i have to switch my router since my router sucks. It really does.
Anyway, i researched a little and came across a brand Buffalo WZR-300HP. I chose this for no real reason other than a sale. What it does has that i like and maybe want is it is powered with DD-WRT. What i want besides having a good router is to be able to track my data consumption over the router.
My current router is a Netgear WGT624-v3 (not upgradable).
It would help if someone has this particular router and can tell me if this is a good router or if i should consider other choices.
Thank You

Leslieann · « **Reply #1 on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 21:02:09 »

Buffalo's are really good, bang for the buck routers, I highly recommend them and wish they were easier to get locally because I would put them in more offices. I don't personally have direct experience with that exact model, I have recommended it to customers who have had zero problems with it.

Stock DD-WRT is often a bit fickle and difficult, but Buffalo dumbed it down a little, making it easier for those who are not network admins to handle it better. There is a 99.9999% chance that you won't need what they removed, so it;s not an issue. DD-WRT has features almost no home user would ever need and if you do, odds are you can find/figure out how to get them back in.

sth · « **Reply #2 on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 21:11:31 »

trendnet makes some good very affordable routers as well; you can find them on newegg.

yester64 · « **Reply #3 on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 21:18:09 »

Thanks for the reply.

Well, i read that it can be confusing other say its easy.. so hard to tell. Since its Linux based i am all for it. But i have to admit that i am not that knowledgeable in networking. But i will learn anyway.. right now i need to reset my old router since i can not even auto log-in with my cell.

The other brand i don't know either, but i will check on that as well.

I thank you both already.

Hak Foo · « **Reply #4 on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 21:20:22 »

My Buffalo has been okay... but I've noticed that every router seems to burn itself out after a couple years. At work, it's about 12 months, at home, maybe three years.

Of course, I also had good luck with a $15 house-brand one once you put dd-wrt on it.

Leslieann · « **Reply #5 on:** Wed, 13 February 2013, 23:29:37 »

Quote from: Hak Foo on Wed, 13 February 2013, 21:20:22

My Buffalo has been okay... but I've noticed that every router seems to burn itself out after a couple years. At work, it's about 12 months, at home, maybe three years.

Of course, I also had good luck with a $15 house-brand one once you put dd-wrt on it.

That is common, they are cheaply made in China.
Worse, manufacturers have been under-speccing the power supplies, which is harmful to the capacitors inside. Some routers with USB ports have power supplies that don't even have enough power to properly power the chipset, much less the rest of the switch or the usb device.

If you live in an area with poor power regulation the problem is only exacerbated. Everyone thinks of power spikes as a problem, but low power conditions actually kill just as many (or more) computers and electronics.

nullstring · « **Reply #6 on:** Thu, 14 February 2013, 00:37:50 »

OpenWRT is vastly superior to dd-wrt.
Atheros is by far the best supported interface type. Ralink is also decent. I would avoid broadcom, but support for their hardware is slowly growing.
Although 8MB flash will work in a pinch, 16MB is much nicer to work with. Many these days come with only 4MB which I feel is just not enough.

From there add any features you need.. Simultaneous dual band or usb ports or what not.
Then there troll the OpenWRT table of hardware and newegg simultaneously until you have a good router in your pricerange.

I like netgear and TP-Link.
Newer hardware will sometimes require compiling the openwrt image yourself or using a nightly build.
I use a WNDR3700v1 right now.

yester64 · « **Reply #7 on:** Sat, 16 February 2013, 18:14:59 »

Ok, just to let you know guys. I got myself a Buffalo. Its the first ever upgrade in regards of a router for me. Setup was very quick and works right out of the box.
The only thing i am looking for is the ability to record the traffic to check on my provider of they cheat me. I got caps

Leslieann · « **Reply #8 on:** Sat, 16 February 2013, 20:06:09 »

There is probably log in there.
A bit of warning though, logs tend to slow the router down, and with DD-WRT, when the log fills, the router will lock up (or at least that used to be a problem).

Testing by independent sources have shown that almost every provider who has caps have inaccurate meters, however it is almost always to the benefit of the user. Even if it is, what option do you have if it was, they won't accept your router as proof that they are wrong.

yester64 · « **Reply #9 on:** Sat, 16 February 2013, 21:33:19 »

Quote from: Leslieann on Sat, 16 February 2013, 20:06:09

There is probably log in there.
A bit of warning though, logs tend to slow the router down, and with DD-WRT, when the log fills, the router will lock up (or at least that used to be a problem).

Testing by independent sources have shown that almost every provider who has caps have inaccurate meters, however it is almost always to the benefit of the user. Even if it is, what option do you have if it was, they won't accept your router as proof that they are wrong.

Well, it was for testing to see what traffic i accumulate over a period of a month. It is true though that i would not have a chance at all to fight it.
Right now i am thinking to switch from my telco to cable. My dsl is anyway kind of slow.

Oh, i have seen the log check mark, but i haven't seen a location for it so i assume it will be written in the memory of the router. Perhaps, if my assumption is correct, that this is the reason it will slow down. Maybe?

Leslieann · « **Reply #10 on:** Sat, 16 February 2013, 22:13:55 »

Quote from: yester64 on Sat, 16 February 2013, 21:33:19

Well, it was for testing to see what traffic i accumulate over a period of a month. It is true though that i would not have a chance at all to fight it.
Right now i am thinking to switch from my telco to cable. My dsl is anyway kind of slow.

Oh, i have seen the log check mark, but i haven't seen a location for it so i assume it will be written in the memory of the router. Perhaps, if my assumption is correct, that this is the reason it will slow down. Maybe?

Correct, it lopads up the momery, and there used to be a memory leak associated with it, if I remember right.
Some offer a way to export it to a pc as it runs, but that means the PC needs to run all of the time. I believe most people could go anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months before it had issues (it has been a while since I worked with DD-WRT), so it still may be worth using, just remember to flush it, and if you forget, it's not a huge issue.

Unless you have an absolutely terrible cable co., cable is almost always a better way to go in my experience. telephone companies specialize in phones, and seem to only do dsl because it's easy money. Their staff is usually undertrained, and their lines are often older and exposed, whereas cable guys have more experience, it's less prone to interference, and the lines are better protected. In the numerous states and cities I have lived or worked, I have never seen dsl be a better choice. I'm sure there are exceptions, but they seem to be just that, exceptions.

I suspect phone companies are bad about this because they have had monopolies for so long, they just expect people to put up with it. Cable companies had to convince people to switch to cable and compete with satellite and telcos, so they seem to lack the attitude. Seriously, phone companies are some of the absolutely worst companies I have ever had the displeasure of working with. AT&T tops the list after my last interaction with them.

IvanIvanovich · « **Reply #11 on:** Sat, 16 February 2013, 22:49:48 »

If you get one with usb, you can plug in a 4GB stick or whatever, and assign a path to there for the logs and even extra apps if you wanted, and it is much less a problem for routers with dinky flash space. It's why I don't like these off the shelf things. I prefer to roll with stuff like soekris or wrap. x86, much more ram, use however big CF card space you need... and often times you can get them used for a reasonable price... though mostly still only older 10/100 models, but nothing a GbE switch can't fix. You can add minipci wireless on nearly all of them so you have quite a lot of room to get some nice powerful radio cards there.
I used to have a nice set up with an older soekris 4801 and a Sangoma adsl card in, running vyatta. It was pretty nice.

ADSL is way better choice in my area. You get the bandwidth you pay for, there are almost never outage, and they don't give a f*ck about what you are doing on it. The cable company on the other hand oversells their bandwidth like crazy so you end up paying for 30mbps but end up with 3mbps throttles the connection frequently on 'peak hours' on top of that, and monitors the network for bittorrent so they can send nasty letters about copyright infringement and terminate your service and it cost 20% more. It's quite terrible.

yester64 · « **Reply #12 on:** Sun, 17 February 2013, 16:54:21 »

I am in luck then. My router does have a usb port. So i should not have any problems then. This router is still new to me so i need to learn everything i can about this thing to fully understand.

Well, where i live there is only two choices. Either AT&T or TimeWarner.
A while ago i checked on AT&T how much it is for faster internet. Its expensive. For what i pay right now i can get triple speed from the cable.
I still need the phone though so i can not leave AT&T for good. I recently changed my cellphone carrier from AT&T to Straighttalk. Still the same network, but lower cost. Since i don't massively use mobile to watch movies and what not, it is pretty good. Even in that department the price went up now on AT&T. 1GB data for $60/month. Thats crazy.

Anyway, i am happy with the router so far and its a big big difference to my previous router i had. Sadly i was to fast to buy since there was another option i could have chosen, but ok. Maybe next time.

compgeke · « **Reply #13 on:** Mon, 18 February 2013, 15:00:21 »

One thing that might help with a DD-WRT router is scheduled reboots, as I've noticed that my router (Linksys E1000 v2.1 with DD-WRT) slows down after a couple weeks, but a restart gets it working fine.

This can be set under Administration>Keep Alive if you want to set it.

yester64 · « **Reply #14 on:** Tue, 19 February 2013, 20:00:23 »

I got to check that. Thanks for the tip with the reboot. I did see the option but ignored for now. It will be interesting to see if mine gets a slow down too. Hopefully not, but if its the software its likely.

yester64 · « **Reply #15 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 20:38:01 »

I think i just killed my router. Well not really but i pressed to hard on the reset button without intent really.

Besides my obviously brutal fingers, i do have problems with this router in that it lets me not connect to the setup page anymore. Its clearly there and i can reach the internet and everything but just not the setup page.
Strange, is this normal with routers?

Leslieann · « **Reply #16 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 20:54:07 »

Odds of breaking the reset button in that way are pretty slim actually. Odds are you just pushed it over inside, they aren't sell supported.

I have had that happen as well, where I couldn't reach the setup page and the only fix was to reset everything, using the button you just trashed. LOL You should be able to open it and fix the reset and/or jumper it manually to reset things. It's just a simple push button.

tp4tissue · « **Reply #17 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 20:55:01 »

In terms of "NEW" prices

< $30 they're all about the same..

Between $30 and $100 they all SUCK for the price..

$120-150 you get to the "good stuff"

Leslieann · « **Reply #18 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 21:06:05 »

If you are shopping at Best Buy, certainly, though you can get a nice Netgear for $60-$80 on sale occasionally. Online, you can get Buffalo and Asus for around there that don't suck, but generally, the mass brands at those prices are terrible.

yester64 · « **Reply #19 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 21:50:08 »

To be honest, this is the first time that i killed a reset button. Normally i am a gentle person, but i guess not this time.

Anyway, i still have internet with this one. Since i have uVerse i can of course use the stupid modem/wifi. to get wifi. Just, i don't trust the thing.
I will buy me this special screw driver because it needs a special screw driver. 5 or 6 cone socket. Right now i don't have this particular type. Just my luck.
If i have to buy another router someone recommended Netgear WNDR3700-100NAS which has OpenWRT i believe. But before i have to buy i will get me the screwdriver.

Still, is it normal that a router is not accessible even with everything else working? So strange. Not sure if that reflects the quality of the router.

n0rvig · « **Reply #20 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 22:10:48 »

I agree with tp4tissue. You get the good stuff when you spend more than $100. If you're asking about routers here, then maybe that's what you're looking for. If you're the type that wants to run custom firmware, and add a USB stick to your router to run programs.

I went for an Asus that runs custom firmware, and I'm really impressed. I am sure other brands are great at that price too.

Leslieann · « **Reply #21 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 22:25:17 »

Don't get me wrong, yes routers do get better over the $100 price point, but there are good ones below that. just not from major brands typically.

Yester64, you may want to try seeing what your gateway is set to. My guess is that when you hit the reset and broke it, you reset the config page location as well. It may not be where you think it is, or was.

yester64 · « **Reply #22 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 22:35:34 »

Before i take the thing apart i tried to this.
Run ipconfig to see where things are.

This came out

Code: [Select]

Windows IP Configuration


Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::7587:9267:aaaa:351d%11
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.113
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.1

Tunnel adapter isatap.{5081F107-40C7-4A1E-A98D-6DB5E5816B63}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 9:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 
   IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:9d38:6ab8:107d:1a16:9424:631a
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::107d:1a16:9424:631a%13
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::

Normally 192.168.11.1 is the address but its not reachable. I have to dig a little deeper and see what i can do to reach it. Or it can't be reached what maybe possible too i guess.

Leslieann · « **Reply #23 on:** Tue, 04 June 2013, 23:57:18 »

If it's not at 11.1, then odds are it's not responding.

If you haven't restarted your computer since the router went down, do that and re-run with Ipconfig/all. With that you should get DNS as well. Regardless, rebooting will update the numbers and possibly show you the routers true IP. If it still doesn't respond, then it's probably on the way out.

As a last resort, I would try a different port, sometimes as they die, some ports will start to die off. They may still work, but not completely. Regardless, if you can't get it after a reboot of your system, odds are it's dead or dying.

yester64 · « **Reply #24 on:** Wed, 05 June 2013, 21:28:18 »

I tried but i think the router is toast.

Code: [Select]

PS C:\Users\xxxx> ipconfig /all

Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : xxxxx-PC
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . : 
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-1D-7D-AB-24-E6
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::7587:9267:aaaa:351d%11(Preferred) 
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.113(Preferred) 
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Wednesday, June 05, 2013 7:22:34 PM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Thursday, June 06, 2013 7:22:34 PM
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 234888573
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-19-3C-30-F0-00-1D-7D-AB-24-E6
   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.11.1
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{5081F107-40C7-4A1E-A98D-6DB5E5816B63}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 9:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : 
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:9d38:6ab8:8c2:34fd:9424:631a(Preferred) 
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::8c2:34fd:9424:631a%13(Preferred) 
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Disabled

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thats what came out, but even with plugin at a different port this not solve it. I think it needs to be reset which i can not do right now. On friday i will buy me that screwdriver to see inside. Perhaps i can fix it, not sure.. otherwise i will use my uverse brick to do it in the meantime.

Thanks anyway

yester64 · « **Reply #25 on:** Wed, 05 June 2013, 23:11:40 »

I opened the router and honestly, i could not find anything that i broke. Strange... anyway, i ordered me a different router. This time a netgear with opensource. Hopefully this one will be better. We can dream... the other one i have to check some more. Perhaps i will find a solution.

Thanks for any suggestions that were posted. I do appreciate it, even though i was not successful but you never know.

StrykerX · « **Reply #26 on:** Thu, 06 June 2013, 00:30:12 »

I'm a big fan of Tomato. Not sure if it's supported on your router, but by far the best router Firmware I've ever used. It's super AJAX-y, and has a really clean and simple interface but it's also powerful. You can monitor your network traffic in real-time or even see it by daily/weekly/monthly.

yester64 · « **Reply #27 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 14:36:28 »

Everything works so far.. at last.

Anyway, i am not sure so i want to ask here. Maybe thats a stupid question but do you need a separate router if you have for example uverse modem. I know that the wifi is slower but not sure if that would be bad for streaming netflix.

Also, are there any suggetions regarding settings for a router or a the standard settings ok. Ah and last do you need to disable the router features from the uverse modem or can it be like it is. I did not change anything on the uverse modem.

Thanks...

Leslieann · « **Reply #28 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 16:42:20 »

Your Uverse modem is a modem/switch/router/wireless access point in one.

You can separate each or add more of each to the system (except the modem). Since your Uverse has a router, you would be wise to disable DHCP in the new router, this turns your new router into a simple switch and access point. You will still get full speed, just addressing is handled by the router.

Having two dhcp systems in a row like that, can cause issues for some programs and essentially creates two separate networks. By disabling DHCP, everything will act as one network.

boost · « **Reply #29 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 16:57:02 »

Getting this one really soon and will report back on it

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115

tsangan · « **Reply #30 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:00:41 »

Quote from: boost on Sat, 08 June 2013, 16:57:02

Getting this one really soon and will report back on it

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115

That ones a good one Boost, I picked up a ASUS RT-N56U and it's been a million times better then my Cisco and Belkin one I had for awhile

boost · « **Reply #31 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:05:03 »

Quote from: tsangan on Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:00:41

Quote from: boost on Sat, 08 June 2013, 16:57:02
Getting this one really soon and will report back on it

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115

That ones a good one Boost, I picked up a ASUS RT-N56U and it's been a million times better then my Cisco and Belkin one I had for awhile

Was also thinking of getting a ASA5505 but def getting the asus one.

tsangan · « **Reply #32 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:07:17 »

Yeah i heard good things about Asus, after this one I have to say I would definitely recommend them I have zero troubles with it so far, my old routers I had to keep rebooting it. With this Asus one haven't had to touch it since I installed it

yester64 · « **Reply #33 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:30:13 »

Quote from: Leslieann on Sat, 08 June 2013, 16:42:20

Your Uverse modem is a modem/switch/router/wireless access point in one.

You can separate each or add more of each to the system (except the modem). Since your Uverse has a router, you would be wise to disable DHCP in the new router, this turns your new router into a simple switch and access point. You will still get full speed, just addressing is handled by the router.

Having two dhcp systems in a row like that, can cause issues for some programs and essentially creates two separate networks. By disabling DHCP, everything will act as one network.

Done that.

But what about the need of a 2nd router. Do i overkill myself with it or is it better than the uverse one. I do streaming over the internet and i know that speedwise the new router is faster than the uverse wifi.
The reason i am asking is only since i don't know much really about networking. I really should read a little about it.

Leslieann · « **Reply #34 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 17:45:40 »

With dhcp disabled, you already disabled the internal router. Overkill? Yes and no.
While just a switch is easy to find, access points are less common, so the easiest way to get one is just buy a wireless router and disable dhcp, as you have done.

As for your speeds, If you have two system/server talking to each other, connect them through the new router, it will be faster. If they only talk to the internet, connect them to the Uverse as the extra "hop" takes more time and your Uverse modem/router's network is faster than your internet anyhow.

If you really want the best system all around, what you would do is enable DHCP on the new router, and disable wifi, dhcp and set the Uverse modem into bridge mode. That makes it only act as a modem. Then your new router handles everything. This is the best method, but also the most difficult.

yester64 · « **Reply #35 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 20:13:38 »

Well, what i meant was since i only have a computer (1) and a PS3 and my cellphone, if an additional router makes sense at all. I understand that some people have much more equipment to hook up and therefore need a router to expand.
The only benefits i see in my case is the n-protocol that gives me a better throughput from a 54mbps to a theoretical 300.
There maybe other devices i may connect via wifi later on onto the network. Printer comes to mind.

I have to admit that networking is a field i never paid much attention to it. Right now i do have 2 choices to connect to the internet and also wireless which is nice. Just to have a fallback solution.

Leslieann · « **Reply #36 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 22:40:57 »

Honestly, unless you stream HD video, Wireless N isn't going to do a whole lot for you. It's more than enough for gaming and surfing.

yester64 · « **Reply #37 on:** Sat, 08 June 2013, 23:26:39 »

Well then i should be good since i stream HD. I tried to use for awhile the uverse wifi and honestly it was kind of laggy.
I will try to make the uverse a dump modem though. I think that would make more sense.

I'll appreciate any tips since they helped me to understand it better. Networking is just another world to me.

Leslieann · « **Reply #38 on:** Sun, 09 June 2013, 00:37:50 »

Bridge mode, basically makes it a "dumb modem". Technically once you put it in bridge mode, you are done with it, you don't have to do anything else with the modem. Everything else should automatically turn off.

Wireles G under perfect conditions and only one user can do HD, but only just.

quickcrx702 · « **Reply #39 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:20:42 »

http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Wireless-Internet-Security-Firewall/dp/B00433101I

If you are comfortable with Cisco IOS CLI, which this pretty much ripped off, this thing is the best bang for buck router out there. If not, there is an 800 page or so PDF manual. There is a web gui, but it's not as powerful. Lots of features not found in DD-WRT, Tomato, etc. Kind of overkill though if you aren't very tech savvy, or aren't willing to RTFM. Most of the negative feedback is because this thing does so much, and is so complicated for novices to setup, that it takes some people a week to get up and running. I have this running at various small businesses that have between 10-25 users, with ZERO issues. Just make sure to update the firmware, the original one that comes with it has been reported to have problems with wireless connections dropping. With the updated firmware, they fixed that issue, and it is rock solid.

quickcrx702 · « **Reply #40 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:32:21 »

Actually, from one of the Amazon reviews "The manual is almost 1000 pages. It is poorly translated to English and unclear in places." I haven't actually needed to consult the manual so I got the page count wrong. It would indicate however that this device does A LOT, and might be a good starting point if you really want to learn about networking.

tp4tissue · « **Reply #41 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 14:30:31 »

Quote from: quickcrx702 on Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:32:21

Actually, from one of the Amazon reviews "The manual is almost 1000 pages. It is poorly translated to English and unclear in places." I haven't actually needed to consult the manual so I got the page count wrong. It would indicate however that this device does A LOT, and might be a good starting point if you really want to learn about networking.

what kind of does "so much" does it do..

the kind like BMW, where there's alot of **** you don't ever need

or the kind like an Ergodox, that just works and is everything you need.

n0rvig · « **Reply #42 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 18:52:24 »

Quote from: quickcrx702 on Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:20:42

http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Wireless-Internet-Security-Firewall/dp/B00433101I

If you are comfortable with Cisco IOS CLI, which this pretty much ripped off, this thing is the best bang for buck router out there.... they fixed that issue, and it is rock solid.

Wow, that is way more than I assume the original post was looking for. I'd love to have something like that in our office at work. At home it would feel like overkill.

quickcrx702 · « **Reply #43 on:** Sun, 30 June 2013, 00:48:41 »

Quote from: tp4tissue on Sat, 29 June 2013, 14:30:31

Quote from: quickcrx702 on Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:32:21
Actually, from one of the Amazon reviews "The manual is almost 1000 pages. It is poorly translated to English and unclear in places." I haven't actually needed to consult the manual so I got the page count wrong. It would indicate however that this device does A LOT, and might be a good starting point if you really want to learn about networking.

what kind of does "so much" does it do..

the kind like BMW, where there's alot of **** you don't ever need

or the kind like an Ergodox, that just works and is everything you need.

A little of both, depending on your use case. Unless you have kids in the house or otherwise need to restrict what people are doing, there are a bunch of features you won't use. This is probably better suited for Nazi network admins, but it's better in my opinion to have more features than you need for about the same price point as regular consumer grade routers. However, some of the ones that come to mind that might be useful to you are SSL and IPSEC VPNs if you want to remotely access your stuff, or setup a secure site-to-site VPN tunnel between you and a buddy or your workplace, QOS that actually works for your VOIP and other critical applications, VLANs, advanced zone based firewall, and multiple SSID to give people access to your guest networks(wired or wireless) without allowing them to access your personal stuff, and maybe use the packet capture/export feature if you want to sniff traffic generated by other users(spy on your kids/roomates/spouse/etc).

Quardah · « **Reply #44 on:** Tue, 02 July 2013, 17:01:40 »

Get anything from Linksys, update it to its lastest firmware release.

Then, enjoy the best home network you may have for very little bucks.

I currently have a E4200V2 and it's crazy fast. Intranet speed goes up to 10MBps (not 10Mbps) in between computers and the wireless is pretty flawless once setup. It does everything great and the firmware is pretty easy to install.

I worked a lot with Network that's the best advice i can give you.

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Author Topic: Router (Read 5347 times)