Thinking of modding some Ergo-Clears (first timer)

[Zeal]

Hello Geek Hack Community! I stumbled upon your forums a couple times in the past but never made an account cause I was still (and probably still is) a Mechanical keyboard newbie.

Alright, so I'm planning on getting a new (quality) mechanical keyboard because my Razer Blackwidow is dying on me and the glossy finish is driving me crazy...The Left Shift, W, S, D keys become unresponsive after I don't touch my BW for about ~3hours. It takes about 10 or so keypresses per key to get the keys to work again. Anyone know the reason why this is happening?

I really liked the tactile feel on MX Blues but they are a bit too noisy for my surrounding. I was doing some research on browns and stumbled upon Ergo-Clears. I've felt a couple browns before in the past and I wish the tactile feedback was just a bit more pronounced, so Ergo-Clears seemed like the best option. I've spent last night watching WhiteFireDragon's Ergo-Clear mod & how to lube keys properly and it seem like a tedious, but rewarding process. I've never disassembled a keyboard before, but I've soldered PCBs (albeit small ones), during High School Engineering/Tech electives   

Now today, I've been lurking a bunch of forums on GH and stumbled upon a couple questions that I have:

I saw some members mention "Kirko Clear Mod" but wasn't able to find anything about it on Google. All I know is that it's a very unique mod.

A lot of people are recommending 62g Korean springs to go with Ergo-Clears so they don't "stick". What's the activation like if I were to use an Ergo-Clear with 62g springs rather than the default Brown+Clear stem? I also find reds a bit too light, so I don't mind having a spring a tad heavier than blue. Blacks feel a bit too heavy for my liking, but I wouldn't know what it feels like with a tactile feedback.

Do Browns, Blues, and Reds all share the same spring?

I'm still on the fence on deciding whether I want to mod a Filco MJ2 or a Ducky Shine III or even a TKL version. I'm really liking the delayed lighting effect after each key-press on the Ducky Shine III...but the extra LEDs to de-solder @.@

TKL keyboards seem very popular here. I've had very limited experience with TKL Keyboards, but what makes them so popular other than portability? I'm interested in trying out a TKL for my next keyboard!

From what I've read, thick PBT seem to be the most favourable key caps here. Would white LEDs work well with blank, thick PBT?

Can I also lube the ergo-clear switches while I'm swapping the stem/spring?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions 

My wallet is going to hate me cause I don't even have any soldering equipment, yet I want to make Ergo-Clears, get custom keycaps, new keyboard, lube switches D:

[tp4tissue]

ERGODOX...

Round 3 groupbuy is open and available on Massdrop

It is available with MX Clear switches.

It is fully programmable

The keycaps for it are available in the GB for $37,, though I recommend joining the separate group buy for dcs instead of dsa.

It has the special plates, that allow you to Mod the switch spring WITHOUT desoldering the switch.  So if you put in 62g springs, and decide later that you want 55g instead, it's an easy swap.

Lube is controversial... But i wouldn't lube until the switch is well broken in.

[Sifo]

Kirkle Clears are very special.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Do it. There are more people that love ergo clears than hate it. Lube on ergo clears also makes it feel almost like a different switch.

LEDs won't shine through thick PBTs or cherry DS very well. It's more for a hue underneath the caps.

That was a huge wall of text, but welcome to GH =)

[Zeal]

Ah, I see. Thanks for clearing that up, Sifo.

Do it. There are more people that love ergo clears than hate it. Lube on ergo clears also makes it feel almost like a different switch.

LEDs won't shine through thick PBTs or cherry DS very well. It's more for a hue underneath the caps.

That was a huge wall of text, but welcome to GH =)

Yeah, I'm fine with the subtle hue underneath and think it would look really nice with the delayed reactive backlit mode on the aluminum body DS III. Is Ducky coming out with a TKL version for DS III?

How long would you recommend using a switch for before lubing? How often do I have to lube the switch? I would assume that I'd have to de-solder every time I want to lube though, right?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Contrary to what tp4tissues says, I would just lube them while you already have the switches open to swap springs. If you want to fully break them in before lubing, this will take a VERY long time. Why torture yourself typing on scratchy switches just to break them in? Just lube them right away, and only once should last for the lifetime of the switch if you don't use some cheapo stuff.

And yes, every time you want to get inside the switch, you'll have to desolder. If you plan on experimenting with different types of springs, lube, or just completely change switches, one of THESE lets you skip the step of desoldering and soldering every time you want to swap something out.

[Zeal]

Ah that universal backplate would help a tonne! When do you think you'd be doing another GB on that? Nvm. You're taking preorders now