Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3554767 times)

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Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14300 on: Mon, 11 January 2016, 21:56:28 »
Large differences. Weight, feel, sound, price... It's really too large a question to answer... But the short one is that Poly and Carbon are not good options, and SS and Alu are pretty similar, though most prefer SS to Alu due to the weight.

Edit: Note, this is based on what I've read and what little experience I have with the subject. I've never tried Poly and Carbon, but Carbon is really expensive, and Poly flexes like... well, like Polyurethane.

Couldn't let this go without correcting it. Carbon fiber and polycarb plates (probably polycarbonate rather than polyurethane, though I think both have been made at one point or another) are not "bad" they just feel different. They have flex to them which many people like, for tactile Cherry switches especially. It's similar to having PCB mount switches.

Additionally, typically stainless steel has less flex than aluminum.
So its like stainless steel is an upgrade from alumunium and carbon is an upgrade to the polycarbonate plate yes?. I don't know what plate to use for my blue alps and green alps build. So its better to use the SS plate for green alps and linear cherry right? And carbon plate for tactile and clicky switches am I right?

That seems to be the most common preference, yes.
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14301 on: Mon, 11 January 2016, 22:07:51 »
Large differences. Weight, feel, sound, price... It's really too large a question to answer... But the short one is that Poly and Carbon are not good options, and SS and Alu are pretty similar, though most prefer SS to Alu due to the weight.

Edit: Note, this is based on what I've read and what little experience I have with the subject. I've never tried Poly and Carbon, but Carbon is really expensive, and Poly flexes like... well, like Polyurethane.

Couldn't let this go without correcting it. Carbon fiber and polycarb plates (probably polycarbonate rather than polyurethane, though I think both have been made at one point or another) are not "bad" they just feel different. They have flex to them which many people like, for tactile Cherry switches especially. It's similar to having PCB mount switches.

Additionally, typically stainless steel has less flex than aluminum.
So its like stainless steel is an upgrade from alumunium and carbon is an upgrade to the polycarbonate plate yes?. I don't know what plate to use for my blue alps and green alps build. So its better to use the SS plate for green alps and linear cherry right? And carbon plate for tactile and clicky switches am I right?

That seems to be the most common preference, yes.
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

None are really better than any other.  They just simply provide a different feel.

In order from most to least flex, I would rate it at, thin poly, thick poly, aluminum, SS.  I don't have any experience with CF, but I would imagine it would fall between aluminum and stainless steel.  The less flex, the harsher the bottom out feel is going to be.  Though I reckon, a lot of people won't feel much difference, or if they can, it doesn't matter enough to warrant delegating a different plate material to different switches.

Though, one primary difference is going to be color.  Acrylic and plolycarbonate are going to be a touch more difficult to paint due to being plastic and getting a proper primer to get good adhesion, but it is offered in a variety of colors.  Plus, laser cutting plastics generally releases a lot of bad **** which needs to be cleaned out of the exhaust before it can be released to the atmosphere.

Now aluminum and titanium can both be anodized, which is an electrical applied chemical conversion coating that works in different ways for these two materials.  For aluminum, when anodized, it actually produces hexagonal pores similar to honeycomb and then a dye is applied that soaks into these pores.  This is the reason why color matching between batches is very difficult, because everything happens in a bath of chemicals and visual inspection during the process is impossible.  Ti is a bit different in it changes the depth at which light absorbs into and reflects back.  This difference in depth is what gives the different colors and can be adjusted by changing the amount of voltage.  If the color desired is passed, you can't go back to a lower voltage and get it without mechanical removal of the anodized finish.  However, one can go up to the next multiple of that voltage to get the color desired.

Now carbon steel and stainless steel have a bunch of different coatings possible not limited to traditional paint, powder coating, Cerakote, black oxide for carbon, black phosphate for stainless, etc.
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Offline pr0ximity

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14302 on: Mon, 11 January 2016, 22:16:47 »
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

For linear switches I prefer very stiff plates. I don't enjoy tactile or clicky MX switches so I can't really speak to them.

Also, +1 to Melvang's awesome info
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Offline UsualSuspectXXX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14303 on: Mon, 11 January 2016, 22:53:02 »
Large differences. Weight, feel, sound, price... It's really too large a question to answer... But the short one is that Poly and Carbon are not good options, and SS and Alu are pretty similar, though most prefer SS to Alu due to the weight.

Edit: Note, this is based on what I've read and what little experience I have with the subject. I've never tried Poly and Carbon, but Carbon is really expensive, and Poly flexes like... well, like Polyurethane.

Couldn't let this go without correcting it. Carbon fiber and polycarb plates (probably polycarbonate rather than polyurethane, though I think both have been made at one point or another) are not "bad" they just feel different. They have flex to them which many people like, for tactile Cherry switches especially. It's similar to having PCB mount switches.

Additionally, typically stainless steel has less flex than aluminum.
So its like stainless steel is an upgrade from alumunium and carbon is an upgrade to the polycarbonate plate yes?. I don't know what plate to use for my blue alps and green alps build. So its better to use the SS plate for green alps and linear cherry right? And carbon plate for tactile and clicky switches am I right?

That seems to be the most common preference, yes.
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

None are really better than any other.  They just simply provide a different feel.

In order from most to least flex, I would rate it at, thin poly, thick poly, aluminum, SS.  I don't have any experience with CF, but I would imagine it would fall between aluminum and stainless steel.  The less flex, the harsher the bottom out feel is going to be.  Though I reckon, a lot of people won't feel much difference, or if they can, it doesn't matter enough to warrant delegating a different plate material to different switches.

Though, one primary difference is going to be color.  Acrylic and plolycarbonate are going to be a touch more difficult to paint due to being plastic and getting a proper primer to get good adhesion, but it is offered in a variety of colors.  Plus, laser cutting plastics generally releases a lot of bad **** which needs to be cleaned out of the exhaust before it can be released to the atmosphere.

Now aluminum and titanium can both be anodized, which is an electrical applied chemical conversion coating that works in different ways for these two materials.  For aluminum, when anodized, it actually produces hexagonal pores similar to honeycomb and then a dye is applied that soaks into these pores.  This is the reason why color matching between batches is very difficult, because everything happens in a bath of chemicals and visual inspection during the process is impossible.  Ti is a bit different in it changes the depth at which light absorbs into and reflects back.  This difference in depth is what gives the different colors and can be adjusted by changing the amount of voltage.  If the color desired is passed, you can't go back to a lower voltage and get it without mechanical removal of the anodized finish.  However, one can go up to the next multiple of that voltage to get the color desired.

Now carbon steel and stainless steel have a bunch of different coatings possible not limited to traditional paint, powder coating, Cerakote, black oxide for carbon, black phosphate for stainless, etc.

Awesome info. Thanks for sharing.

Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14304 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 05:43:12 »
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

For linear switches I prefer very stiff plates. I don't enjoy tactile or clicky MX switches so I can't really speak to them.

Also, +1 to Melvang's awesome info

Green Alps feel so nice on a CF plate. I always end up missing my Hammer when I'm not using it. It's just so unique in feel. Sorry to hear you didn't enjoy your Green Alps by the way! I forgot why that was. Were they scratchy for you? I was lucky that mine came from a truly unused board, so mine were as good as one could hope for.

I'm going to try to get a CF Alps plate made for my Lightpad so I can mount Alps onto it. :D

Offline fanpeople

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14305 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 05:59:06 »
Is there any special name for usb cable without connectors.  I am trying to find some and cant really find any spools that specifically say it is good for usb?

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14306 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 06:07:44 »
Yes, "cable". You want at least four leads.

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14307 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 06:19:56 »
Large differences. Weight, feel, sound, price... It's really too large a question to answer... But the short one is that Poly and Carbon are not good options, and SS and Alu are pretty similar, though most prefer SS to Alu due to the weight.

Edit: Note, this is based on what I've read and what little experience I have with the subject. I've never tried Poly and Carbon, but Carbon is really expensive, and Poly flexes like... well, like Polyurethane.

Couldn't let this go without correcting it. Carbon fiber and polycarb plates (probably polycarbonate rather than polyurethane, though I think both have been made at one point or another) are not "bad" they just feel different. They have flex to them which many people like, for tactile Cherry switches especially. It's similar to having PCB mount switches.

Additionally, typically stainless steel has less flex than aluminum.
So its like stainless steel is an upgrade from alumunium and carbon is an upgrade to the polycarbonate plate yes?. I don't know what plate to use for my blue alps and green alps build. So its better to use the SS plate for green alps and linear cherry right? And carbon plate for tactile and clicky switches am I right?

That seems to be the most common preference, yes.
Thank you for the reply bro. What is your personal preferance if I may ask?

None are really better than any other.  They just simply provide a different feel.

In order from most to least flex, I would rate it at, thin poly, thick poly, aluminum, SS.  I don't have any experience with CF, but I would imagine it would fall between aluminum and stainless steel.  The less flex, the harsher the bottom out feel is going to be.  Though I reckon, a lot of people won't feel much difference, or if they can, it doesn't matter enough to warrant delegating a different plate material to different switches.

Though, one primary difference is going to be color.  Acrylic and plolycarbonate are going to be a touch more difficult to paint due to being plastic and getting a proper primer to get good adhesion, but it is offered in a variety of colors.  Plus, laser cutting plastics generally releases a lot of bad **** which needs to be cleaned out of the exhaust before it can be released to the atmosphere.

Now aluminum and titanium can both be anodized, which is an electrical applied chemical conversion coating that works in different ways for these two materials.  For aluminum, when anodized, it actually produces hexagonal pores similar to honeycomb and then a dye is applied that soaks into these pores.  This is the reason why color matching between batches is very difficult, because everything happens in a bath of chemicals and visual inspection during the process is impossible.  Ti is a bit different in it changes the depth at which light absorbs into and reflects back.  This difference in depth is what gives the different colors and can be adjusted by changing the amount of voltage.  If the color desired is passed, you can't go back to a lower voltage and get it without mechanical removal of the anodized finish.  However, one can go up to the next multiple of that voltage to get the color desired.

Now carbon steel and stainless steel have a bunch of different coatings possible not limited to traditional paint, powder coating, Cerakote, black oxide for carbon, black phosphate for stainless, etc.
So its just the more flex the softer the bottoming will be yes? and the main difference is color right?
Goin to ask LeandreN for CF plate and SS plate I think I need to pass Alu plate cause its no different with SS

Offline fanpeople

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14308 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 07:23:07 »
Yes, "cable". You want at least four leads.

Yes i am assuming there is purpose made cable, with four leads with what two twisted together and the drain sheeth. Anyone have a link maybe?

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14309 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 16:31:44 »
JTK sets and GMK sets are the same exact profile right?

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14310 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 16:44:21 »
JTK sets and GMK sets are the same exact profile right?
Yep cherry profile caps

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14311 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 18:05:35 »
Hey all,

I'm thinking of picking up a Focus- FK-6000 for $70 USD. It's brand new and has never been used, no yellowing or dust at all!

I have really been wanting to try ALPS switches, and from my research It's either Complicated ALPS, alps.tw Type T4, or Futaba Clicky Switch. Is it worth taking the risk? There's no returns. What's the likelyhood of one of these using Alps? The label on the back, if I'm reading it correctly, is dated 93'. Since it's quite far away, I can't remove the keycap to check myself.

My other option is a more worn-out FK-2001 that will probably need a little retr0bright and a keycap wash, but I know for a fact it uses Complicated Alps.

Thanks.

Offline Vozella

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14312 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 22:15:34 »
Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14313 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 22:41:55 »
Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Yep, the Infinity has one for sure.

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14314 on: Tue, 12 January 2016, 22:43:18 »
Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Imsto is selling these on his website. 

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=99
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Offline E3E

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14315 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 11:05:11 »
Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Imsto is selling these on his website. 

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=99

Just keep in mind that these are Cherry profile and so the stem will be off-center.

Offline Vozella

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14316 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 12:12:02 »
Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Imsto is selling these on his website. 

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=99

Are there any 6u PBT space bars. Not really concered about the profile. I just want it to be PBT.

Imsto is selling these on his website. 

http://imsto.cn/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=99

Just keep in mind that these are Cherry profile and so the stem will be off-center.
Thank you.

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14317 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 18:06:43 »
Is there a noticable difference in the keyfeel between Complicated White Alps and Simplified White Alps? They are both real ALPS.

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14318 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 18:17:59 »
Is there a noticable difference in the keyfeel between Complicated White Alps and Simplified White Alps? They are both real ALPS.

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
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Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14319 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 18:52:41 »
Is there a noticable difference in the keyfeel between Complicated White Alps and Simplified White Alps? They are both real ALPS.

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha


I got that information from the wiki http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKBL/SKBM_series

the keyboard I want has the switches looking like
 

i assumed they were real alps because they had ALPS written on them and most clones don't do that.

I only want to know if there is a major difference in the feel.

Offline bcredbottle

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14320 on: Wed, 13 January 2016, 19:13:27 »
Is there a noticable difference in the keyfeel between Complicated White Alps and Simplified White Alps? They are both real ALPS.

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha


I got that information from the wiki http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKBL/SKBM_series

the keyboard I want has the switches looking like
 
Show Image


i assumed they were real alps because they had ALPS written on them and most clones don't do that.

I only want to know if there is a major difference in the feel.


Yes. This might be an overgeneralization, but for the most part, complicated Alps have a much more satisfying tactile feel. Salmon and Orange Alps are particularly sought after.

Offline hwood34

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14321 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 11:00:27 »
What are the dimensions for a standard 60% PCB? I had the numbers but I seem to have lost them somewhere
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Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14322 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 11:39:11 »
What are the dimensions for a standard 60% PCB? I had the numbers but I seem to have lost them somewhere

286mm x 94mm I think...?

Offline ddot

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14323 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 15:49:33 »
Q:  I was thinking of experimenting with lubing up some springs to see how that affects the ping.  I’ve got a bottle (not an aerosol can) of the “ DuPont Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon” lying around.  Seems similar to the “ DuPont Silicone Lubricant with Teflon” that’s recommended in a few places, but doesn’t have the silicone component.  Would this be safe to use on the spring?  Or even if it is, am I just wasting my time with it?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14324 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 15:51:08 »
Q:  I was thinking of experimenting with lubing up some springs to see how that affects the ping.  I’ve got a bottle (not an aerosol can) of the “ DuPont Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon” lying around.  Seems similar to the “ DuPont Silicone Lubricant with Teflon” that’s recommended in a few places, but doesn’t have the silicone component.  Would this be safe to use on the spring?  Or even if it is, am I just wasting my time with it?

The biggest issue will be in how it reacts with the plastic of the switch housing.  My recommendation is to stick with the silicone or pick up some Krytox.  There are a few vendors here that supply it.
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Offline ddot

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14325 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 17:51:17 »
The biggest issue will be in how it reacts with the plastic of the switch housing.  My recommendation is to stick with the silicone or pick up some Krytox.  There are a few vendors here that supply it.

Thanks Melvang.

Does anyone know if the non silicone version will have a negative reaction with the plastics, or is that just a cautionary guess?

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14326 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 18:01:35 »
Does anyone know if the non silicone version will have a negative reaction with the plastics, or is that just a cautionary guess?

There are often (usually) carriers or propellants that are solvents outright or otherwise act as solvents long-term. That is what you have to watch out for.
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Offline cryptokey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14327 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 22:38:38 »
How does one do anything on a 40% board?  Like I see them and they look so nice and portable being tiny but then I'm like wait. No numbers, no f-keys, no esc, del, etc.  Is it just lots of function layers that you've gotta know?  Not ripping on them, just ignorant to how they're used.
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Offline FLFisherman

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14328 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 22:39:44 »
How does one do anything on a 40% board?  Like I see them and they look so nice and portable being tiny but then I'm like wait. No numbers, no f-keys, no esc, del, etc.  Is it just lots of function layers that you've gotta know?  Not ripping on them, just ignorant to how they're used.

I think you've got it. Lots and lots of function layers. XD

Realistically I think you'd use two for 90% of your keys and a third for that final 10%. Just something to get used to, I suppose.

Offline cryptokey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14329 on: Thu, 14 January 2016, 22:42:45 »
How does one do anything on a 40% board?  Like I see them and they look so nice and portable being tiny but then I'm like wait. No numbers, no f-keys, no esc, del, etc.  Is it just lots of function layers that you've gotta know?  Not ripping on them, just ignorant to how they're used.

I think you've got it. Lots and lots of function layers. XD

Realistically I think you'd use two for 90% of your keys and a third for that final 10%. Just something to get used to, I suppose.

OK.  I feel like it would be very efficient when you get used to it.  I could see myself using one if I travelled a ton and used that one board a lot because otherwise I'd find it difficult to get used to the layers.
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Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14330 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 03:06:15 »
Well, I feel like I became more efficient with a 60%, but 90% of that is not moving my hand back and forward to the arrow keys. I mostly use the arrow keys to navigate text (code) though, and most people don't do that, they just use a mouse.

Offline UsualSuspectXXX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14331 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:11:05 »
Well, I feel like I became more efficient with a 60%, but 90% of that is not moving my hand back and forward to the arrow keys. I mostly use the arrow keys to navigate text (code) though, and most people don't do that, they just use a mouse.

I do that! Specifically I use ESDF for arrows. WASD is absolutely terrible if your typing. I've actually got a pretty efficient function layer.

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14332 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:12:38 »
Ijkl here. Tried using hjkl, but I started lusting for the blood of Emacs users, so I changed it.

Offline ideus

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14333 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:14:16 »
Ijkl here. Tried using hjkl, but I started lusting for the blood of Emacs users, so I changed it.

I use ijkl also, I do not think this is unpopular at all.

Offline davkol

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14334 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:39:25 »
How does one do anything on a 40% board?  Like I see them and they look so nice and portable being tiny but then I'm like wait. No numbers, no f-keys, no esc, del, etc.  Is it just lots of function layers that you've gotta know?  Not ripping on them, just ignorant to how they're used.
It's the same as with 60 %, but with an embedded digit/punctuation layer. Usability depends on what software you're using and how.

Personally, I can't really use even ordinary 60% keyboards, but if it had a bunch of easily accessible modifiers, I'd be happy with a 40% board (with the modifiers ideally in thumb clusters or in place of number row).

I use Emacs (or UIs with similar bindings) a lot, and it requires basically just Control, Alt/Meta and the alphanumeric keys (with Shift, obviously). I mean, look at the original HHKB design.

Offline Blaise170

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14335 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:44:13 »
I use Menu, Meta, Ctrl, Right Shift as my arrow cluster on a 60% and it is my favorite placement.
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Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14336 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 07:50:56 »
That might work, but I would have to make shift a tap modifier, which gets janky if you need to hold down the up key...

Offline user 18

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14337 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 08:42:41 »
Ijkl here. Tried using hjkl, but I started lusting for the blood of Emacs users, so I changed it.

I use ijkl also, I do not think this is unpopular at all.

After trying a couple of options, I too have settled on ijkl.
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Offline DaveW

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14338 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 09:59:41 »
Ijkl here. Tried using hjkl, but I started lusting for the blood of Emacs users, so I changed it.

I use ijkl also, I do not think this is unpopular at all.

Yeah, ijkl is a popular wasd for folks that use their mouse left-handed while gaming (which is really odd to me despite being left-handed myself)

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14339 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 13:48:59 »
Is there a Switch Hitter clone for mac? I feel like it should be in Karabiner, but I can't find it.

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14340 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 14:51:55 »
 New question:

Since I managed to fix the bad soldering job on my Alps board, I am taking another run at a couple of previous hackjobs I've done.
The image below is NSFL, and shows the enter key position from the back side of a Satan GH60.





As you can see, after I botched the switch placement in the middle (the actual ANSI enter key placement) I put two switches in the place where it should be, to try to use the keyboard. That actually works fine, I just hit the far right key on the keyboard (the left key here, under D68) for Enter, and it triggers fine. The right key, under D63 isn't connected, since it's designated as KC_NO in the keymap anyway.

But now I 'd like to fix it. I'd like to remove the two keys that are there, put a new switch in the botched keyplacement and somehow make the connection work.

I know this is dirty work, but someone has to do it, and damnit Geekhack, you're the finest cops on the force, so if YOU can't solve this murder, no one can!

So: Either with a normal (non-SMD) diode or tons and tons of wire, how do I make the connection?

Offline user 18

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14341 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 15:10:13 »
New question:

Since I managed to fix the bad soldering job on my Alps board, I am taking another run at a couple of previous hackjobs I've done.
The image below is NSFL, and shows the enter key position from the back side of a Satan GH60.


Show Image



As you can see, after I botched the switch placement in the middle (the actual ANSI enter key placement) I put two switches in the place where it should be, to try to use the keyboard. That actually works fine, I just hit the far right key on the keyboard (the left key here, under D68) for Enter, and it triggers fine. The right key, under D63 isn't connected, since it's designated as KC_NO in the keymap anyway.

But now I 'd like to fix it. I'd like to remove the two keys that are there, put a new switch in the botched keyplacement and somehow make the connection work.

I know this is dirty work, but someone has to do it, and damnit Geekhack, you're the finest cops on the force, so if YOU can't solve this murder, no one can!

So: Either with a normal (non-SMD) diode or tons and tons of wire, how do I make the connection?

My instinct would be to put the switch in the position where it belongs, and just use short jumper wires to connect the terminals on the switch to the pads where you currently have a switch for enter.
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Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14342 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 15:18:51 »
Ah, I tried that. Did not work. No idea why... That was the first thing I tried, even before I put in the two other switches...

Offline Roibhilin

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14343 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 16:18:33 »
is it worth dental banding my hhkb

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Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14344 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 16:24:58 »
is it worth dental banding my hhkb

I don't think so. Unless you need it to be super quiet and then I would spend the extra to get silencing rings.

Offline wockytocky

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14345 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 16:29:10 »
is it worth dental banding my hhkb

If you think it would make for a fun learning experience then maybe. Otherwise probably not, HHKBs are already pretty quiet

Offline Roibhilin

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14346 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 19:23:33 »
is it worth dental banding my hhkb

If you think it would make for a fun learning experience then maybe. Otherwise probably not, HHKBs are already pretty quiet

is it worth dental banding my hhkb

I don't think so. Unless you need it to be super quiet and then I would spend the extra to get silencing rings.
oh ok, does the shorter switch throw feel weird?

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Offline SpAmRaY

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14347 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 19:25:40 »
is it worth dental banding my hhkb

If you think it would make for a fun learning experience then maybe. Otherwise probably not, HHKBs are already pretty quiet

is it worth dental banding my hhkb

I don't think so. Unless you need it to be super quiet and then I would spend the extra to get silencing rings.
oh ok, does the shorter switch throw feel weird?

That's one of those personnel preference things.

Honestly I'm too lazy to mod Topre anymore.

Offline UsualSuspectXXX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14348 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 20:03:32 »
Ijkl here. Tried using hjkl, but I started lusting for the blood of Emacs users, so I changed it.

See, I use right shift as a psudo-modifier with AutoHotKey. Pretty much the entire left hand side of the board is bound to different navigation controls.

Offline dndlmx

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14349 on: Fri, 15 January 2016, 22:23:05 »
Are there any HHKB style 60% plates still available somewhere out there.