Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[nmur]

which image is correct for the weighting of the variable RF's?

More

[klennkellon]

About half of the keys on my Model M feel very smooth, but the other half feel sandy and scratchy, I tried popping the caps off and giving the barrel and stems a wipe with some alcohol but it didn't do anything.

The keys on the numpad are also binding with eachother, like the 6 key is hitting the 9 key. I've tried reseating a couple of times but no luck

Is this the result of rivet loss? I plan to send it to phosphor soon

[zennasyndroxx]

HOW DO I DRILL MY HHKB CASE FOR NOVATOUCH STABILIZERS PLEASE HALP !!!111!1!

[ipreferpie]

HOW DO I DRILL MY HHKB CASE FOR NOVATOUCH STABILIZERS PLEASE HALP !!!111!1!

Yes, totally like to echo that. Any videos on it? And recommended dremels?

I think drilling for the mod stabilizers should be easier. But anyone have specific guides on how to move the spacebar stabilizers to be compatible with MX?

[zennasyndroxx]

HOW DO I DRILL MY HHKB CASE FOR NOVATOUCH STABILIZERS PLEASE HALP !!!111!1!

Yes, totally like to echo that. Any videos on it? And recommended dremels?

I think drilling for the mod stabilizers should be easier. But anyone have specific guides on how to move the spacebar stabilizers to be compatible with MX?

I'm going to answer my own question right here.

I've used a Dremel 3000 to do this.



Just done it like moments ago.

You would have to drill a hole big enough for the novatouch stabs and the mx cap stab stems to go through. If you don't want to hurt your hhkb, you can Dremel your novatouch stabs and your mx cap stab stems.

Also, I don't think there's any Dremel needed for Spacebars when you can just replace the stab housing and the switch slider.

[CPTBadAss]

which image is correct for the weighting of the variable RF's?

More

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

I think these are the same. Just different colors.

About half of the keys on my Model M feel very smooth, but the other half feel sandy and scratchy, I tried popping the caps off and giving the barrel and stems a wipe with some alcohol but it didn't do anything.

The keys on the numpad are also binding with eachother, like the 6 key is hitting the 9 key. I've tried reseating a couple of times but no luck

Is this the result of rivet loss? I plan to send it to phosphor soon

Sounds like rivet issues or something internally

[Sempre]

I'll be doing an ergo mod but while I'm at it I'm thinking of replacing the Clear sliders (which are very tight with keycaps) with Blue sliders. Would that work out, or does the sliders differ between switch types?

[ipreferpie]

HOW DO I DRILL MY HHKB CASE FOR NOVATOUCH STABILIZERS PLEASE HALP !!!111!1!

Yes, totally like to echo that. Any videos on it? And recommended dremels?

I think drilling for the mod stabilizers should be easier. But anyone have specific guides on how to move the spacebar stabilizers to be compatible with MX?

I'm going to answer my own question right here.

I've used a Dremel 3000 to do this.

Show Image

Just done it like moments ago.

You would have to drill a hole big enough for the novatouch stabs and the mx cap stab stems to go through. If you don't want to hurt your hhkb, you can Dremel your novatouch stabs and your mx cap stab stems.

Also, I don't think there's any Dremel needed for Spacebars when you can just replace the stab housing and the switch slider.

Excellent work! Thanks for that. As for the space bar, I can change out the housing, but the spacing isn't following the 10mm(?) distance width of the typical MX spacebars, and it  is closer to 9.5mm. Was wondering if anyone is successfully increased the width and seated the housings correctly.

[loomin]

Are futaba switches worth trying? Can someone with experience with them compare them to mx blues?
Thanks

[klennkellon]

Are futaba switches worth trying? Can someone with experience with them compare them to mx blues?
Thanks

They're notorious for being very smooth, and they click on the downstroke AND the upstroke, about 60g actuation force compared to 50g for MX Blues. They are also MX Compatible.

I don't know about their tactility or actuation point though, my guess is they would be more tactile (almost any other clicky switch is more tactile than MX Blues)

There is also a linear variant, which looks identical to the clicky variant, but it's much rarer.

[loomin]

Thanks for the info 

[user 18]

I'll be doing an ergo mod but while I'm at it I'm thinking of replacing the Clear sliders (which are very tight with keycaps) with Blue sliders. Would that work out, or does the sliders differ between switch types?

You can swap out the sliders no problem, but you would end up with the clicky characteristics of the blue switch, rather than the tactile characteristics of the clear switch.

You could consider turning your blues into Jailhouse blues (I don't have a link, but there are a few good resources on here -- try searching on google using site:geekhack.org instead of using the built-in search). You could also look into purple zealio switches, they have all the characteristics of ergo clears, but without the added projections on the cruciform that make MX clears so tight on caps.

[Sempre]

I'll be doing an ergo mod but while I'm at it I'm thinking of replacing the Clear sliders (which are very tight with keycaps) with Blue sliders. Would that work out, or does the sliders differ between switch types?

You can swap out the sliders no problem, but you would end up with the clicky characteristics of the blue switch, rather than the tactile characteristics of the clear switch.

You could consider turning your blues into Jailhouse blues (I don't have a link, but there are a few good resources on here -- try searching on google using site:geekhack.org instead of using the built-in search). You could also look into purple zealio switches, they have all the characteristics of ergo clears, but without the added projections on the cruciform that make MX clears so tight on caps.

Thanks. I'll look into jailhouse blues, sounds fun.

[azhdar]

One column is acting up on one of my keyboard, what should I look for on the pcb ?

[Joey Quinn]

Show Image

One column is acting up on one of my keyboard, what should I look for on the pcb ?

Broken traces or cold solder joints, the cold solder joints could look cracked and might leave components loose. Follow the trace for that column and look for any inconsistencies.

[klennkellon]

There is a huge gap between the top part of my Model M's case and the bottom half. they just won't align properly, the top part with the screws is fine.

It looks really ugly, does anyone know why this is happening?

[CapnHighlands]

I just got a Pok3r with browns, and some of the keys (especially the right side) feel very stiff. Why is this? Is it something I should RMA?

[alienman82]

removed.

[CapnHighlands]

are they stabilized keys? stock stabs may make the keys feel thicker.

The shift key definitely feels really heavy. I figure that the stabilizers were making it feel much more heavy. But no, it's not just stabilized keys. It feels like the whole right side of the board.

[fohat.digs]

There is a huge gap between the top part of my Model M's case and the bottom half. they just won't align properly, the top part with the screws is fine.

It looks really ugly, does anyone know why this is happening?

Seat the internal assemble on the pegs, slip the tabs into the slot(s) at the front (spacebar) side, and screw down the back last.

[CPTBadAss]

I just got a Pok3r with browns, and some of the keys (especially the right side) feel very stiff. Why is this? Is it something I should RMA?

Could be the switches need to be worn in a bit.

Are futaba switches worth trying? Can someone with experience with them compare them to mx blues?
Thanks

Definitely worth trying out. Like it was said before I think there's more than just clicky futaba. But I think the clicky futaba were smoother than MX Blues. The click was kinda loud like White Alps too.

[hwood34]

Are futaba switches worth trying? Can someone with experience with them compare them to mx blues?
Thanks

I had some futabas for a bit. Honestly wish I had the board back, really loved those switches

[klennkellon]

There is a huge gap between the top part of my Model M's case and the bottom half. they just won't align properly, the top part with the screws is fine.

It looks really ugly, does anyone know why this is happening?

Seat the internal assemble on the pegs, slip the tabs into the slot(s) at the front (spacebar) side, and screw down the back last.

I tried this but it didn't work.

The case snaps together nicely when the keyboard isn't in it, but the bottom half refuses to snap.

[klennkellon]

There is a huge gap between the top part of my Model M's case and the bottom half. they just won't align properly, the top part with the screws is fine.

It looks really ugly, does anyone know why this is happening?

Seat the internal assemble on the pegs, slip the tabs into the slot(s) at the front (spacebar) side, and screw down the back last.

what slots are youi talking about" I don't see anything for them to slip into.

The case clamps together nicely when there is no keyboard inside of it. but it just wont work otherwise.

It seems like it will latch, and then when the top part of the case falls back all of the clamps pop out

I'm just going to send it to phosphor, it has bigger issues that a finicky case

[fohat.digs]

There is almost no clearance between bottom plate and case at the front (spacebar) side so if you did a bolt mod and any screws are protruding, that could be a problem.

[klennkellon]

I fixed it.

I was trying to set the keyboard on top of the clips at the bottom, but the board actually slips under them.

I couldn't slip it under because a peg on the right was bent down somehow, so I broke it off, it's fine now!

I feel like in the 29 years this keyboard has existed it must have been dropped or had something dropped on it more than once.

[FlukeNukem]

I've got a model f bigfoot that I'd like to put xwhatsit's controller on, but the bigfoot uses a 4x23 matrix.  The model f version of the controller only supports up to 16 columns but the beamsprings also had a 4x23 grid.  My question is can I use the xwhatsit beamspring controller on the bigfoot or will the firmware not work with model f style switches?

[Blaise170]

Is there a tutorial anywhere for writing your own keyboard firmware? I've got several boards that use some weird connector or protocol and I'd like to get them working. I know you can handwire boards, but how do you program them?

[rowdy]

Is there a tutorial anywhere for writing your own keyboard firmware? I've got several boards that use some weird connector or protocol and I'd like to get them working. I know you can handwire boards, but how do you program them?

It's not a tutorial, but there's a short C example here: https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/5fdd52500c59130ff80a58f62cd3a030ed6571f1/atreus.c

[CPTBadAss]

I've got a model f bigfoot that I'd like to put xwhatsit's controller on, but the bigfoot uses a 4x23 matrix.  The model f version of the controller only supports up to 16 columns but the beamsprings also had a 4x23 grid.  My question is can I use the xwhatsit beamspring controller on the bigfoot or will the firmware not work with model f style switches?

I don't think the chips on the two controllers are the same. I'd PM Melvang and ask him though. He's recently converted a Bigfoot. Fohat.digs would know too I believe.

Is there a tutorial anywhere for writing your own keyboard firmware? I've got several boards that use some weird connector or protocol and I'd like to get them working. I know you can handwire boards, but how do you program them?

Hit up Haata or Dorkvader.

[klennkellon]

Would swapping the springs from a half destroyed IBM Model F into a functional Model M effect the feel much? I've heard the springs on the F's are lighter.

[FlukeNukem]

Would swapping the springs from a half destroyed IBM Model F into a functional Model M effect the feel much? I've heard the springs on the F's are lighter.

I thought the springs were heavier on the model m because they had to be to properly actuate the smaller hammer

[CPTBadAss]

Would swapping the springs from a half destroyed IBM Model F into a functional Model M effect the feel much? I've heard the springs on the F's are lighter.

**** I swear someone just tried this experiment out but I don't remember what/where that thread is.

[Blaise170]

I thought the hammers on the model F springs were too big for a model M?

[fohat.digs]

I think that they are talking about the springs, not the pivot plates.

[klennkellon]

I think that they are talking about the springs, not the pivot plates.

Yes, just the springs.

I wonder if it would be possible to swap them out using the chopstick method.

[fohat.digs]

I wonder if it would be possible to swap them out using the chopstick method.

I don't see why not, but I have never tried the chopstick method personally.

Also personally untested, the "pop rivet" tool method looks much better for installing the new spring.

[klennkellon]

I wonder if it would be possible to swap them out using the chopstick method.

I don't see why not, but I have never tried the chopstick method personally.

Also personally untested, the "pop rivet" tool method looks much better for installing the new spring.

How does this method work?

[fohat.digs]

Sorry, I can never find it again. A couple of years ago somebody took a pop rivet apart and modified the "collar" part to make a press.

[FoC_Tow]

Link for the switch sticker in GH CAD Resources Hub is currently down.

Anyone know another source, or potentially downloaded the templates before?

[rowdy]

Sorry, I can never find it again. A couple of years ago somebody took a pop rivet apart and modified the "collar" part to make a press.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63278.0

[0100010]

Paging jdcarpe:

Does anyone know the part number for PCB mounted Costar or Cherry stabilizers?

There is no such thing as "PCB Mounted" Costar stabilizers. All Costar stabilizers attach to the plate.
 
Cherry "Plate Mounted" stabilizers are parts: G99-0224 (1x2, 1x2.25, 1x2.75), G99-0379 (1x7), and G99-0226 (1x8, 1x9, 1x10).
 
These Cherry part numbers are "without frame". Without frame means no plate or PCB, I've personally confirmed it by ordering these parts from Mouser. : G99-0742 (1x2, 1x2.25, 1x2.75), G99-0745 (1x7), and G99-0744 (1x8, 1x9, 1x10).
 
This is the link from Cherry: http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm

Can you expand upon what that above in bold means?  I know Cherry stabs come in PCB or plate mount - and the plate mount part numbers are clear.  Does your description above mean the other listed part numbers are NOT PCB mount - and some other otherwise useless type?  If so - what are the PCB mount part numbers?

One can get Cherry plate mounted 7x spacebar stabs (G99-0379) from Mouser for 50 cents each, but in order to get the other type (G99-0745), one would have to order 250 @ 33 cents each.  [Not that I am in need of any stabs at the moment - just trying to get clarity for reference.]

Note that the current Cherry MX part information no longer has the complete list anymore.

Old List :


New List :

[jdcarpe]

Can you expand upon what that above in bold means?  I know Cherry stabs come in PCB or plate mount - and the plate mount part numbers are clear.  Does your description above mean the other listed part numbers are NOT PCB mount - and some other otherwise useless type?  If so - what are the PCB mount part numbers?

I should have written: "Without frame means: not plate mount, in other words, these are PCB mount"

Now they use the equally ambiguous "with pins" and "without pins." I assume they mean PCB mounting pins.

[0100010]

Can you expand upon what that above in bold means?  I know Cherry stabs come in PCB or plate mount - and the plate mount part numbers are clear.  Does your description above mean the other listed part numbers are NOT PCB mount - and some other otherwise useless type?  If so - what are the PCB mount part numbers?

I should have written: "Without frame means: not plate mount, in other words, these are PCB mount"

Now they use the equally ambiguous "with pins" and "without pins." I assume they mean PCB mounting pins.

Awesome - thank you!

[elcubismo]

Was wondering if springing for a novatouch would be right for me.

I had a CODE TKL with mx clears and loved it. Unfortunately when I moved to my new job my code just stopped registering when plugged in - I think maybe the usb connection is loose, but haven't had time to check it out.

I have a poker 2 with mx blues and really like the feel, but it's a bit loud for work, and as a programmer the fact that I have to use the Fn key so much really gets in the way.

I have a unicomp buckling spring at home, but that would definitely be too loud.

I hear good things about topre, and wanted a novatouch so I could modify the keycaps when I am in the mood for a chance.

How does the Topre compare with MX Clear/Blues, or buckling spring? What about those Matias Quiet Pro (alps?) switches?

[the big aristotle]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cherry-G80-8963-G80-8963LUBUS-2-Wired-Keyboard-SAVE-/231885291919?hash=item35fd70c18f:g:SR8AAOSwKtVWyHp7

These caps are mx compatible, correct?

[CPTBadAss]

Was wondering if springing for a novatouch would be right for me.

I had a CODE TKL with mx clears and loved it. Unfortunately when I moved to my new job my code just stopped registering when plugged in - I think maybe the usb connection is loose, but haven't had time to check it out.

I have a poker 2 with mx blues and really like the feel, but it's a bit loud for work, and as a programmer the fact that I have to use the Fn key so much really gets in the way.

I have a unicomp buckling spring at home, but that would definitely be too loud.

I hear good things about topre, and wanted a novatouch so I could modify the keycaps when I am in the mood for a chance.

How does the Topre compare with MX Clear/Blues, or buckling spring? What about those Matias Quiet Pro (alps?) switches?

Unfortunately the only way to figure it out 100% for yourself is to try them. Topre is unique from the other switches IMO and I personally dislike them. I'll never advocate anyone buys Topre if I'm asked that straight up. You can ask ten other people and get ten different opinions. If you like tactile switches and need it to be quiet, try the Novatouch and see if it's for you. At worst you can resell it for little loss of what you paid since keyboards and Topre boards generally keep their values. I personally much prefer Matias Quiet Pro switches.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cherry-G80-8963-G80-8963LUBUS-2-Wired-Keyboard-SAVE-/231885291919?hash=item35fd70c18f:g:SR8AAOSwKtVWyHp7

These caps are mx compatible, correct?

They're not MX compatible, they ARE Cherry MX caps. The label says it's a G80 keyboard. And the L means that the caps are probably lasered POM caps.

[Blaise170]

Definitely lasered POM. I've had several G80-8113s.

[elcubismo]

Unfortunately the only way to figure it out 100% for yourself is to try them. Topre is unique from the other switches IMO and I personally dislike them. I'll never advocate anyone buys Topre if I'm asked that straight up. You can ask ten other people and get ten different opinions. If you like tactile switches and need it to be quiet, try the Novatouch and see if it's for you. At worst you can resell it for little loss of what you paid since keyboards and Topre boards generally keep their values. I personally much prefer Matias Quiet Pro switches.

Thanks for the advice. I might have to try a topre out. I missed a pretty good drop for quiet pro tkl not too long ago.

As an alternative, would o-rings help a bit? There's a massdrop for 120 o-rings for pretty cheap.

[CPTBadAss]

As an alternative, would o-rings help a bit? There's a massdrop for 120 o-rings for pretty cheap.

As an alternative to what?