GH60 100% Open Source Acrylic Case IC

[jdcarpe]

ooh, I want to get the middle layer made out of acrylic, then I can put LEDs on the underside of the PCB and have it glow out the sides... yessss... that is what I want...

You could have several middle layers done in different colored acrylic. Then use white LEDs, and you don't have to desolder to change the light color.

[Photekq]

You could have several middle layers done in different colored acrylic. Then use white LEDs, and you don't have to desolder to change the light color.

This is one bonus of a layered case. You can split the middle layer into multiple layers if you wish and you can make it as thick as you want.

[jdcarpe]

Photekq, what size machine screws did you design those holes for?

[Photekq]

Photekq, what size machine screws did you design those holes for?

M3 - length is dependant on the thicknesses.

[jdcarpe]

Photekq, what size machine screws did you design those holes for?

M3 - length is dependant on the thicknesses.

Okay, thank you.

[HoffmanMyster]

This project is awesome and the case designs are wonderful and I would definitely buy a couple of these.  Assuming you'll be machining in a GB.

[Photekq]

This project is awesome and the case designs are wonderful and I would definitely buy a couple of these.  Assuming you'll be machining in a GB.

I personally won't be doing one, but if anyone else wishes to run one that's fine with me. Of course there is still some work that needs to be done but it shouldn't be too long of a wait until they're ready.

[agodinhost]

This project is awesome and the case designs are wonderful and I would definitely buy a couple of these.  Assuming you'll be machining in a GB.

I personally won't be doing one, but if anyone else wishes to run one that's fine with me. Of course there is still some work that needs to be done but it shouldn't be too long of a wait until they're ready.

I'll, think on me like a beta tester ...
Make your magic and I'll help whenever I can.
 

[Photekq]

I'll, think on me like a beta tester ...
Make your magic and I'll help whenever I can.
 

Sounds good!

[IvanIvanovich]

Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"

I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.

As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.

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And a cross section of the screws :

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I would be interested in one of this with winkeyless. Kthnx.

[Photekq]

I would be interested in one of this with winkeyless. Kthnx.

Do you mean 1.5/1/1.5 or do you mean 1.5/no switch hole/1.5? Either way it can be done.

[Binge]

I support this 100% open 60% case project.  for 100% 60% love.

[agodinhost]

for 100% 60% love.

??
I'm kinda lost here, gosh!!!

[Photekq]

for 100% 60% love.

??
I'm kinda lost here, gosh!!!

He 100% loves 60% keyboards )

[agodinhost]

for 100% 60% love.

??
I'm kinda lost here, gosh!!!

He 100% loves 60% keyboards )

humpf
I thought it was sex related.

[metalliqaz]

Wow this is shaping up fast.  Giving me ideas...

[Photekq]

Wow this is shaping up fast.  Giving me ideas...

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You know me man. I work fast  :)). Nice to see stuff happening with Sigma btw.

[metalliqaz]

It's been done for a long time.  Can't bring myself to get a case straightened out >.<

[Photekq]

It's been done for a long time.  Can't bring myself to get a case straightened out >.<

You know I like your projects. Let me know if I can help.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

It's been done for a long time.  Can't bring myself to get a case straightened out >.<

Wow I'm very impressed with your PCB designing skills. I am pretty adept at AutoCAD but man designing PCBs looks even harder.

[Sai]

Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"

I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.

As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.

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And a cross section of the screws :

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i like this design and subscribed to this thread.
also, thank you for making this open source.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"

I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.

As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.

Show Image

Show Image

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And a cross section of the screws :

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I really like this. A cheaper alternative could be to use dense wood for the middle layer and glue standoffs to the top plate instead of machining the threads. I might have to experiment with that.

[Photekq]

also, thank you for making this open source.

Please thank agodinhost for this. He was the person who suggested it to me. This thread wouldn't be here if it weren't for him.

I really like this. A cheaper alternative could be to use dense wood for the middle layer and glue standoffs to the top plate instead of machining the threads. I might have to experiment with that.

Experimentation is exactly what we wanted to encourage by doing this. Please update us if you do this!

[The_Beast]

Case 3 - "Semi-Complex Machined"

I really like this one. As you can see there are standoffs on the top plate with screwholes in them. These are here because I wasn't happy having a threaded 1.5mm layer.. It just didn't seem secure enough to me.

As you can see it fits nicely into the middle layer and the bottom layer has countersunk holes. Overall I think this has a really tidy appearance since no screws are visible and I think it's worth the extra machining costs.

Show Image

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And a cross section of the screws :

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Looks like a **** ton of machining, ie expensive

[Photekq]

Looks like a **** ton of machining, ie expensive

It's the top plate that's the problem and it may be best to have it laser cut and attach standoffs after similar to what raccoon suggested. The base and middle are simple and don't require much machining.

[WhiteFireDragon]

The top plate hole looks like it was was copy/paste from the first Phantom revision file I sent you. You don't need the inner spacebar cutout, that's for Leopold spacebar and wouldn't make sense for this plate. Second, my first revision didn't account for plate thickness made in the US (0.0625"), so costar stabs might have problems. You need to change those as well.

[Photekq]

The top plate hole looks like it was was copy/paste from the first Phantom revision file I sent you. You don't need the inner spacebar cutout, that's for Leopold spacebar and wouldn't make sense for this plate. Second, my first revision didn't account for plate thickness made in the US (0.0625"), so costar stabs might have problems. You need to change those as well.

The plate was most likely from a Phantom file since when I first made the layered design I didn't have access to any GH60 files. It's purely to give an idea of how it would look.

[Matt3o]

I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.

[SmallFry]

When gluing, do you glue it with excess on the sides so that it is cut off during production?

[Matt3o]

When gluing, do you glue it with excess on the sides so that it is cut off during production?

nope they are glued afterwards, but I use a very long cure time clear epoxy glue, the excess can be easily removed.

[jdcarpe]

I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.

(Attachment Link)

So you have to mount the switches, then solder the PCB, then screw the case together.... I guess you are committed to this case for good once you solder the PCB in there. Not unlike other acrylic designs, though.

Nice work!

[Matt3o]

I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.

(Attachment Link)

So you have to mount the switches, then solder the PCB, then screw the case together.... I guess you are committed to this case for good once you solder the PCB in there. Not unlike other acrylic designs, though.

Nice work!

I can have a plate for $30 from a service near my place. That's not really an issue

PS: also I'm not really using a PCB

[agodinhost]

I'm having this done with acrylic and alu. Very inexpensive. Very easy to produce. If you want it open you could simply remove the top layer.

(Attachment Link)

Nice!
Can we compare it's dimensions with the one that Photekq designed?
I think we could make some sort of standard for 60% cases acrylic cases (at least the internal dimensions and hole positions).
It would help anyone designing PCBs (like me).
Could you share your files Matt3o?
 

[Matt3o]

Nice!
Can we compare it's dimensions with the one that Photekq designed?
I think we could make some sort of standard for 60% cases acrylic cases (at least the internal dimensions and hole positions).
It would help anyone designing PCBs (like me).
Could you share your files Matt3o?
 

no problem, but I have the prototype in production right now, if it works all my DWGs belong to you. I already had an acrylic case but the thinner layers are a bit fragile/brittle. I have to verify if 8mm is enough for the outer frame.

[IvanIvanovich]

That is pretty much like what I was thinking matt3o, but I would want the mid layer to be one 9mm piece instead of 3x 3mm for a cleaner look. While not an expert, I think it may be enough to drill into the top 2mm and tap that instead of having to glue in standoff. If it doesn't hold well I guess could make the top 4mm and drill in 3mm or whatever.

[Sai]

i wonder which one do you have more, matt30? case or keyboard 
joking aside, that is a pretty impressive work. i need to learn how to design one too. 

[Matt3o]

That is pretty much like what I was thinking matt3o, but I would want the mid layer to be one 9mm piece instead of 3x 3mm for a cleaner look. While not an expert, I think it may be enough to drill into the top 2mm and tap that instead of having to glue in standoff. If it doesn't hold well I guess could make the top 4mm and drill in 3mm or whatever.

My laser cut service doesn't have 9mm orange acrylics. Black acrylic at 9mm is too expensive. The only 9mm acrylic I could find at a decent price is clear/transparent.

Regarding threading acrylics... well I failed miserably, but I'm such a noob

[jdcarpe]

I really like this. A cheaper alternative could be to use dense wood for the middle layer and glue standoffs to the top plate instead of machining the threads. I might have to experiment with that.

One method that TheFlyingRaccoon and I discussed in IRC last night would be to take the layered design and combine the middle and bottom layers. You could then mill that out of any material you like...aluminum, acrylic, wood, etc. Have the top plate laser cut out of aluminum or stainless steel. I think a steel/aluminum top plate on a milled wooden bottom case would look awesome.

[Photekq]

That's really nice matt3o.

I noticed there is a hole for the insert in the top layer. How are you going to make this hole since it's laser cut? Drill it afterwards?

Nice quads jd.

[agodinhost]

Regarding threading acrylics... well I failed miserably, but I'm such a noob

It's not soo easy as it seems, you can't just force the screws in like we do with wood or plastic - it will definitely break the acrylic.

I've used epoxy and sometimes superglue into the holes but I don't like it at all.

[Matt3o]

I noticed there is a hole for the insert in the top layer. How are you going to make this hole since it's laser cut? Drill it afterwards?

it is etched (quite a bit)

It's not soo easy as it seems, you can't just force the screws in like we do with wood or plastic - it will definitely break the acrylic.

I've used epoxy and sometimes superglue into the holes but I don't like it at all.

I'm using some threading tools (not the screw directly). But acrylic tends to break easily, so I prefer to glue. I was a modeler and I have some experience with glue

[Photekq]

I noticed there is a hole for the insert in the top layer. How are you going to make this hole since it's laser cut? Drill it afterwards?

it is etched (quite a bit)

Oh right.. I had no idea you could do that.

[Matt3o]

Oh right.. I had no idea you could do that.

yeah, if you can cut you can usually also etch. It's just a matter of adjusting power and exposure time.

[Tym]

I have no machinests near me; i wonder if i could get it 3D printed?

[aggiejy]

Interested!

[agodinhost]

I have no machinests near me; i wonder if i could get it 3D printed?

I think so, you will need the .stl files for it. To be honest I did thought about that too.
You will need to convert the files to 3d, adjust whatever you need and import it to stl.
I'm not sure about how much they will charge for it and it's a lot of plastic. Just remember that most homebrew printers are limited to 214x214mm.

I think it would be better to create another topic to work on this idea.

[Tym]

Yeah I can convert fine; i just use a plugin. And ill ask my guy when i next place an order.

[IvanIvanovich]

True, you need to use care when tapping acrylic, but if you keep enough material surrounding the hole and use small appropriate size bolt, it is not so likely to fracture. Like I have made some bolted together acrylic 3mm parts with m3 bolt mix steel acrylic for custom PC case stuff and it was ok. Clear mid section would be fine in my eyes, you can always paint on the inside and it looks good. Or drill into inside of mid frame, and place led and the whole thing will light which is also good look.

[Matt3o]

True, you need to use care when tapping acrylic, but if you keep enough material surrounding the hole and use small appropriate size bolt, it is not so likely to fracture. Like I have made some bolted together acrylic 3mm parts with m3 bolt mix steel acrylic for custom PC case stuff and it was ok. Clear mid section would be fine in my eyes, you can always paint on the inside and it looks good. Or drill into inside of mid frame, and place led and the whole thing will light which is also good look.

I don't know about clear side. Might be good with PCB but I hardwire so it is better to hide what's inside

[daerid]

I'm in for one of these, definitely