Author Topic: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice  (Read 96654 times)

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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #100 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 11:39:25 »
I replaced my Logitech Marathon m705 switches yesterday after spending quite some time desoldering, especially the square joint, wouldn't melt! But i did it and it worked!

Today i tried to do the same on a cheaper mouse Logitech M510, it went as a breeze and i was so confident. But went i turned it on, both clicks didn't work, i replaced both. I noticed that the switches were Kailh and i replaced with the Omron, could they not be compatible? Other thing that i might have screwed up when desoldering is i think i removed a metal ring around a joint in the back.

No, they're definitely compatible.

might've soldered too long and melted the switchs internally.

Or the Traces might've been burnt out.


Did you use a solder sucker to reduce the total soldering time ?

Offline JianYang

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #101 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 12:04:58 »
I replaced my Logitech Marathon m705 switches yesterday after spending quite some time desoldering, especially the square joint, wouldn't melt! But i did it and it worked!

Today i tried to do the same on a cheaper mouse Logitech M510, it went as a breeze and i was so confident. But went i turned it on, both clicks didn't work, i replaced both. I noticed that the switches were Kailh and i replaced with the Omron, could they not be compatible? Other thing that i might have screwed up when desoldering is i removed a metal ring around a joint in the back.

Now that i've reopened it and examined the joints, i'm pretty sure it's that metal ring that i removed since the solder doesn't stay down but rather form like a ball on top. If that's the problem, does anyone know how i could replace that metal ring? I thought all circuits are supposed on the other side?

Always add some leaded solder when desoldering, the solder from the factory will be lead-free and adding lead will make it a lot easier to unsolder.

You will have to repair the damaged traces with wire or something like that. Having a picture of the damage might help.

Offline zennon

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #102 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 12:27:27 »
I replaced my Logitech Marathon m705 switches yesterday after spending quite some time desoldering, especially the square joint, wouldn't melt! But i did it and it worked!

Today i tried to do the same on a cheaper mouse Logitech M510, it went as a breeze and i was so confident. But went i turned it on, both clicks didn't work, i replaced both. I noticed that the switches were Kailh and i replaced with the Omron, could they not be compatible? Other thing that i might have screwed up when desoldering is i removed a metal ring around a joint in the back.

Now that i've reopened it and examined the joints, i'm pretty sure it's that metal ring that i removed since the solder doesn't stay down but rather form like a ball on top. If that's the problem, does anyone know how i could replace that metal ring? I thought all circuits are supposed on the other side?

Always add some leaded solder when desoldering, the solder from the factory will be lead-free and adding lead will make it a lot easier to unsolder.

You will have to repair the damaged traces with wire or something like that. Having a picture of the damage might help.

Here is a pic :

How to repair that metal ring? I use a pump to remove the solder it came just out with it.

Offline zennon

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #103 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 12:29:15 »
199642-0

Pic is the current state. I removed the solder from those middle joints. How to repair those traces?

After further research, those are called eyelets. Do they come off easily when desoldering and what are the most likely cause? It can't be me when both middle joint eyelets came off and not the other 2, right?
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 July 2018, 12:45:05 by zennon »

Offline JianYang

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #104 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 13:00:32 »
(Attachment Link)

Pic is the current state. I removed the solder from those middle joints. How to repair those traces?

After further research, those are called eyelets. Do they come off easily when desoldering and what are the most likely cause? It can't be me when both middle joint eyelets came off and not the other 2, right?

The cause is usually delamination from too much heat, mixed with some physical abuse. You are going to have to trace those tracks out and repair with thin wire. I cannot see from the pic where they use to go.

Offline zennon

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #105 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 13:03:21 »
(Attachment Link)

Pic is the current state. I removed the solder from those middle joints. How to repair those traces?

After further research, those are called eyelets. Do they come off easily when desoldering and what are the most likely cause? It can't be me when both middle joint eyelets came off and not the other 2, right?

The cause is usually delamination from too much heat, mixed with some physical abuse. You are going to have to trace those tracks out and repair with thin wire. I cannot see from the pic where they use to go.

I have a different board, can i salvage the eyelets? If so how to remove them?

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #106 on: Sun, 08 July 2018, 21:10:23 »
I'm guessing the metal ring was the pcb trace.
If so the only fix is to find where the ring, and trance connect to, and run a wire from the switch post to the  spot it used to connect (a jumper wire).
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Offline Boromir

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #107 on: Sat, 21 July 2018, 13:45:48 »
Ordered few D2FC-F-7N switches from ebay for my g700s but what I got are labeled D2FC-F-N and despite the furious googling I can't seem to find any mentions of what that missing 7 means (maybe it's mentioned here already but I'm blind)? I opened one and from quick glance it seems the same as pictures of 7N ones. Should work just as well?

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #108 on: Sat, 21 July 2018, 14:31:24 »
Ordered few D2FC-F-7N switches from ebay for my g700s but what I got are labeled D2FC-F-N and despite the furious googling I can't seem to find any mentions of what that missing 7 means (maybe it's mentioned here already but I'm blind)? I opened one and from quick glance it seems the same as pictures of 7N ones. Should work just as well?

Ordered few D2FC-F-7N switches from ebay for my g700s but what I got are labeled D2FC-F-N and despite the furious googling I can't seem to find any mentions of what that missing 7 means (maybe it's mentioned here already but I'm blind)? I opened one and from quick glance it seems the same as pictures of 7N ones. Should work just as well?

probably slight difference in Plunger height.

You'll need a mitutoyo if you want to know for sure though..


Offline Boromir

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #109 on: Sat, 21 July 2018, 17:30:21 »
probably slight difference in Plunger height.

You'll need a mitutoyo if you want to know for sure though..



I do have digital caliper at work but I do not have spare 7N that I could compare to and I rather not open my only working (apart from random double clicks) mouse before I have replacement switch for it. Do you think the (possible) height difference is big enough to matter?

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #110 on: Sat, 21 July 2018, 18:35:13 »
probably slight difference in Plunger height.

You'll need a mitutoyo if you want to know for sure though..



I do have digital caliper at work but I do not have spare 7N that I could compare to and I rather not open my only working (apart from random double clicks) mouse before I have replacement switch for it. Do you think the (possible) height difference is big enough to matter?


Depending on the mouse it may or may not matter.

For example, the D2F japan omron is too tall for alot of logitech mice..

While it works fine in Microsoft Classic IME/IMO mices from over 20 yrs ago...


I think you can safely just put it in..


Make sure to be fast on the soldering, because these switches have a 3sec max soldering time..

The traces on these boards are also very thin.

I Recommend 650F.. soldering temperature.


Offline 537Z3R

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #111 on: Wed, 28 November 2018, 06:50:58 »
Where can I find what omron switch should I buy for a Razer Mamba with a left click switch that is failing?

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #112 on: Wed, 28 November 2018, 13:45:42 »
Where can I find what omron switch should I buy for a Razer Mamba with a left click switch that is failing?


If it's just the switch, and you're comfortable with soldering small traces,  it's buyable..

It's really easy to over-solder/ over-heat omrons,  people don't realize this, and they're walkn' round with gimpped switches.

But as a general rule,  Logitech makes the best mouse... Find something logitech before going anywhere else..

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #113 on: Wed, 28 November 2018, 17:38:29 »
It's really easy to over-solder/ over-heat omrons,  people don't realize this, and they're walkn' round with gimpped switches.

Omron says not to get the tip hotter than 300c and not more than 3 seconds while most people don't even have a temp controlled iron.
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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #114 on: Thu, 29 November 2018, 12:47:42 »
It's really easy to over-solder/ over-heat omrons,  people don't realize this, and they're walkn' round with gimpped switches.

Omron says not to get the tip hotter than 300c and not more than 3 seconds while most people don't even have a temp controlled iron.


I think they meant don't get the solder hotter than 300C..  but the tip will probably be 340c to 370c which is common soldering temp.

I guesssss the small joints on omron could be accomplished with 300 C tip , but it might be longer than 3 seconds..

But my iron doesn't have a giant heat mass, so.. i guess if them UBER pro irons, 300C is fine.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #115 on: Thu, 29 November 2018, 18:10:25 »
I think they meant don't get the solder hotter than 300C..  but the tip will probably be 340c to 370c which is common soldering temp.
As per the Omron D2F manual:

"When soldering make sure that the temperature of the tip is not higher than 300c, and complete the soldering within 3 seconds. Do not apply any external force for 1 minute after soldering. Soldering at an excessive high temperature or soldering for more than 3 seconds may deteriorate the characteristics of the switch."
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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #116 on: Sun, 06 January 2019, 20:36:25 »
Switched to 1.47 Newton switches for a day,  wow, these are STIFF after using 0.74n for so long..

Offline mikeman

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #117 on: Sat, 02 February 2019, 17:02:46 »
Hi,
I have to replace the switches in my G602. In fact the wheel button does not work, but Ill replace them all. I have problem of identyfing the name of switch/possible replacement of wheel button switch... Anyone knows whst is it?

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #118 on: Sat, 02 February 2019, 19:58:53 »
It's probably a PTS645 series switch. I'm not sure of the weight (there is often 2 or 3) and you will need to check pinout and size to be sure, but that is likely it.
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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #119 on: Sat, 02 February 2019, 21:33:53 »
It's probably a PTS645 series switch. I'm not sure of the weight (there is often 2 or 3) and you will need to check pinout and size to be sure, but that is likely it.

Lots of companies make these,  quite hard to identify, they probably swap between producers between batches as well, because the only Brand critical switch is Omron.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #120 on: Sat, 02 February 2019, 22:51:35 »
It's probably a PTS645 series switch. I'm not sure of the weight (there is often 2 or 3) and you will need to check pinout and size to be sure, but that is likely it.

Lots of companies make these,  quite hard to identify, they probably swap between producers between batches as well, because the only Brand critical switch is Omron.
PTS645, like the D2F is a standardized part. It's not a part number or made by a specific company.
Filco MJ2 L.E. w/Vortex case, hand milled case, custom feet, custom paint, Klaxxon key caps, lubed and o-ringed Jailhouse Blues made from vintage Cherry MX Blues, HID Liberator, stainless steel universal plate, 3d printed adapters, removable cord, sound dampened. Winkey blockoff plate | Magicforce 68 w/Outemu Blues |KBT Race S L.E. w/Ergo-Clears, custom WASD keyset | Das Pro w/browns (Costar model) | IBM Model M (x2)

Offline mikeman

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #121 on: Sun, 03 February 2019, 04:18:24 »
Well, it's not the best source of information, but on aliexp there are pictures (technical ones too) of Omron B3F-1000 and BF3-1002, when searching for wheel button switch g602 and it looks like it would fit, so I have ordered both.

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice
« Reply #122 on: Sun, 03 February 2019, 07:30:31 »
Well, it's not the best source of information, but on aliexp there are pictures (technical ones too) of Omron B3F-1000 and BF3-1002, when searching for wheel button switch g602 and it looks like it would fit, so I have ordered both.

as long as the plunger is the same height,  even if the pin doesn't fit, you can just glue it and use small wires. this isn't anything high tech.