Been away for quite a while... Just finished one ErgoDox set today and am typing this message with it.
Overall, this is not a hard build. It sure requires quite a bit used to. My "mistypes" are mainly with 'c' and 'v'. Tend to push both down at the same time. Also, I'm tweaking the layout so it fits me better.
For this build, I did not follow the initial plan. I just need one set up running for now so I get liberated from my aging Natural 4000. Following is what I did:
you already installed the Holtite connectors ?
if yes, you are happy ?
Did not use Holtite connectors. They are too hard to put firmly on the Infinity ErgoDox PCB. Also, once seated, there's no moving around those contact positions. One major reason I want to try them is so I can later try out new switches like Alps or Omron. With electrical pin position fixed, this seems unlikely. As a result, I abandoned this approach.
Another change is with LEDs. I still want RGB. Due to the lack of time, I did not modify the design with SMT parts. Nor did I change any firmware for this purpose. I ended up ordering this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011MVUUB4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2D9L39QUE9EAD&psc=1They should arrive by the end of March or mid April. I'll install them on my current board and test out behavior. Seems a decent yet simple solution for some basic LEDs.
Bummer to hear about the QC issue. Hopefully it gets resolved quickly. I was part of the Spring buy (Fall shipping) earlier this year and haven't had any issues (yet).
Any thoughts on how you're going to approach the angling referenced by point #4 in the OP? It seems tenting options for the Infinity Ergodox are slim. I too am accustomed to the angles of the MS Natural, and Sculpt, and would be interested in doing something similar with my 'Dox.
I have basically two plans.
1. 3D print a base. I'll have to learn to create 3D modeling first for this approach.
2. Utilize a "dead" Natural 4000 for the casing. Try to figure out tolerance for new PCBs and keys.
For both approach, the idea is to only replace the main section of the board. hopefully, the num pad can be left alone.
I've been typing quite a bit on a Logitech Orion Spark G900. Now going back to Natural 4000, honestly, I can't stand the mushy key press. I'd say this is the only problem I have with MS ergo keyboards. If they release a mechanical version, I'll jump on board without second thinking.
P.S. For approach 2 though, I did went through several teardown video for the keyboard. It seems stuffing the PCB in is possible but gonna be tough. I'll use the infinity ergodox as a base, as this one have the most up to date features, including type C cable, LCD display and LEDs.
After typing on this today, I think elevation is the only thing need to address here. The left/right tilt is just right, and quite close to the Natural 4000 setup. The MS keyboard has a higher wrist support which prevented pushing arms against the desk. This feels much needed as I've grown used to it. I tried to use two Aluminum foot from Massdrop. This put the side at the right tilt but made it unstable as the board has no support under the wrist. It feels a support column should fix the issue without the help from the extra foot.
