Author Topic: Warming up the Kha  (Read 1421 times)

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Offline tp4tissue

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Warming up the Kha
« on: Mon, 02 December 2024, 12:00:49 »
Why is there no definitive stance on this? Warm up or no warm up?

It seems a large oversight given the sheer magnitude of humanity's dependence on Car use ?

How is it that something this basic is still wrapped in mythos and quackery.



Offline ivanh98

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 02 December 2024, 15:10:02 »
use car with preheat or remote start for warmup. i am fortunate to have such access



Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 03 December 2024, 17:56:44 »
The curfuddle is lack of definitive guidance by the manufacturer, you'd think they'd know.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #3 on: Wed, 04 December 2024, 03:36:51 »
I hate remote start.
Startup is the most likely time for something to go wrong and you're not there to catch it.

As for no warm up...
Yes manufacturers encourage no warm up, that's because of smog*, it has nothing to do with the car being okay with it. They do deal with it better than older engines (usually!), but it's still not actually good for it. Same with these CVT transmissions (constantly variable transmission), they're self destructing as you drive and rarely going over 100k miles. Regardless of what the manual says, change the fluid every 20k miles instead of 80k or lifetime and it will probably outlast the car, though I still wouldn't buy one.


* I know it's hard to imagine but manufacturers are quite okay with you replacing your car more often.
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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #4 on: Wed, 04 December 2024, 08:42:22 »
Tp4 spoke with a motor oil warehouse manager recently, he basically echoed the same thing as LLann, he said 30k maximum before oil change, don't buy the expensive oil, it's the exact same thing as the cheapest oil, the middle-oil is just there because consumers think it might be better than the cheapest, when it's exactly the same thing + a <0.5% additive which more/less does nothing.

Offline TomahawkLabs

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #5 on: Wed, 04 December 2024, 10:35:42 »
As someone with an engine that lives and dies by its oiling (Subaru EJ255), I start my car and drive it very low RPM (sub 3k) until my oil is completely warmed up, then I drive it like a sports car. That is the only reason I can think of to let your car warm up.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #6 on: Wed, 04 December 2024, 20:35:57 »
Tp4 spoke with a motor oil warehouse manager recently, he basically echoed the same thing as LLann, he said 30k maximum before oil change, don't buy the expensive oil, it's the exact same thing as the cheapest oil, the middle-oil is just there because consumers think it might be better than the cheapest, when it's exactly the same thing + a <0.5% additive which more/less does nothing.

Just to specify, 30k miles for CVT transmission, change your engine far more often.

Oh! and CHECK YOUR ENGINE OIL.
These cars that get 7-8k miles between oil changes are blowing up left and right not because they're bad but because no one checks their oil anymore. Toyota allows 1quart to burn off  every 1k miles, Hyundai allows 3 quarts every 1k miles before declaring an engine bad. Considering your pan only holds about 5 quarts and needs about 3 minimum to actually lubricate the engine, you can see the problem.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #7 on: Wed, 04 December 2024, 20:38:08 »
As someone with an engine that lives and dies by its oiling (Subaru EJ255), I start my car and drive it very low RPM (sub 3k) until my oil is completely warmed up, then I drive it like a sports car. That is the only reason I can think of to let your car warm up.
You need to warm it up just so the head gasket and cooling system doesn't explode.
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w/ Kailh Purple Pros/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 Magnetic cable
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Box Jades, Interchangeable trim, mini lcd, QMK, underglow, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, O-rings, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, in progress link
| Magicforce 68
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MF68 pcb, Outemu Blues, in progress
| YMDK75 Jail Housed Gateron Blues
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J-spacers, YMDK Thick PBT, O-rings, SIP sockets
| KBT Race S L.E.
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Ergo Clears, custom WASD caps
| Das Pro
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Costar model with browns
| GH60
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Definitive Omron Guide. | 3d printed Keyboard FAQ/Discussion

Offline TomahawkLabs

  • Posts: 158
Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #8 on: Thu, 05 December 2024, 08:05:07 »
Quote
You need to warm it up just so the head gasket and cooling system doesn't explode.
Show Image


*knock on wood* I just did the timing belt and spark plugs. Not to mention replacing the steering rack, trans/motor mounts. Purrs like a kitty. I would hate to have to explain to my wife why it costs what it costs to rebuild an engine lol.
Always looking for Alps SKCM/SKCL switches. Feel free to DM.
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Offline Leslieann

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Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #9 on: Thu, 05 December 2024, 16:41:33 »
Quote
You need to warm it up just so the head gasket and cooling system doesn't explode.
Show Image


*knock on wood* I just did the timing belt and spark plugs. Not to mention replacing the steering rack, trans/motor mounts. Purrs like a kitty. I would hate to have to explain to my wife why it costs what it costs to rebuild an engine lol.

While good, that won't stop it.
Watch the tailpipe for steam, watch your cooling system catch tank for oil (dark brown) and watch your oil for coolant (milky). Catch it early enough and you "just" need new head gaskets and some miscellaneous parts. Not cheap but far cheaper than an engine rebuild. Oh, and if one goes, do both. I had one go, I fixed it and 6 months later (before I could get to it) the other let go, spun a rod bearing and destroyed the engine.

Turbo engines have MUCH better gaskets.
Novelkeys NK65AE w/62g Zilents/39g springs
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62g Zilents/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, pic
| Filco MJ2 L.E. Vortex Case, Jailhouse Blues, heavily customized
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Vortex case squared up/blasted finish removed/custom feet/paint/winkey blockoff plate, HID Liberator, stainless steel universal plate, 3d printed adapters, Type C, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, foam sound dampened, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps (o-ringed), Cherry Jailhouse Blues w/lubed/clipped Cherry light springs, 40g actuation
| GMMK TKL
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w/ Kailh Purple Pros/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 Magnetic cable
| PF65 3d printed 65% w/LCD and hot swap
More
Box Jades, Interchangeable trim, mini lcd, QMK, underglow, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, O-rings, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, in progress link
| Magicforce 68
More
MF68 pcb, Outemu Blues, in progress
| YMDK75 Jail Housed Gateron Blues
More
J-spacers, YMDK Thick PBT, O-rings, SIP sockets
| KBT Race S L.E.
More
Ergo Clears, custom WASD caps
| Das Pro
More
Costar model with browns
| GH60
More
Cherry Blacks, custom 3d printed case
| Logitech Illumininated | IBM Model M (x2)
Definitive Omron Guide. | 3d printed Keyboard FAQ/Discussion

Offline TomahawkLabs

  • Posts: 158
Re: Warming up the Kha
« Reply #10 on: Thu, 05 December 2024, 16:57:03 »
Quote
You need to warm it up just so the head gasket and cooling system doesn't explode.
Show Image


*knock on wood* I just did the timing belt and spark plugs. Not to mention replacing the steering rack, trans/motor mounts. Purrs like a kitty. I would hate to have to explain to my wife why it costs what it costs to rebuild an engine lol.

While good, that won't stop it.
Watch the tailpipe for steam, watch your cooling system catch tank for oil (dark brown) and watch your oil for coolant (milky). Catch it early enough and you "just" need new head gaskets and some miscellaneous parts. Not cheap but far cheaper than an engine rebuild. Oh, and if one goes, do both. I had one go, I fixed it and 6 months later (before I could get to it) the other let go, spun a rod bearing and destroyed the engine.

Turbo engines have MUCH better gaskets.

2008 Legacy GT Spec.B. My favorite car that I hope I never have to get rid of.
Always looking for Alps SKCM/SKCL switches. Feel free to DM.
AMD 5600x | RTX3080 | 2x 1TB NVME + 4x 4TB HDD | B550M Pro-P | 32GB RAM | RM850x | Node 804 | Schiit Modius/Magnius + Audeze LCD-2 | 2x Dell S3422DWG
GMMK 1 Full Size Barebones | Zealio 67g ; Apple M3501 handwired | Alps SKCM Damped Cream
SA: Camping