[GB] TMK Alps64 - 60% PCB for Alps

[punkpc]

Is there any of these boards left available to buy?

[Applet]

Got my PCB in the mail today and it looks good! Can't wait to put it all together but probably wont have time until end of next week. Thanks for this project, I love it 

[mashby]

Everything arrived today safe-and-sound. Like Applet, it'll be a little bit before I have the time and the switches to build it up.

Thanks hasu for doing this and thank you for the lube!

[FrostyToast]

Please do a video comparing blue ALPS to click molded orange.
I don't care if you wont have a full board but I do want to see what it's like.

[sprit]

Alps switches  :  A limited personal opinion

*  The sliders are basically same shape, regardless of its material composition n smoothness variety, IMO.
*  The center coil springs are definitely different in each switch type. 
*  the 1st contact leaf springs look similar, but differ in angles, shapes, etc
*  2nd leaf springs have obviously different angles, thickness, shapes in detail with each type of ALPS 
*  You may get very similar feels with original leaf & coil springs, but limited feels w modded leaf springs.
*  There were Alps electronic parts OEM factories in Korea, Taiwan, Mexico, etc in '80-90's. 
*  Reminds me a dozen of Cherry MX clone Factories in China at this moment.
*  Need to discuss n share infos among GH members.   
   
Clicky  -  Blue, White clicky
Linear  -  Tee stem (as in Apple 0100, 0110, 0110a), Brown, Green linear
Tactile  -  Salmon(Pinky), Orange, White, White w rubber feet, Cream, Cream w rubber feet, Black Tactiles

Mod to Linears  -  take 2nd leaf springs off  :  blue linears,  salmon linears,  orange linears,  cream linears, white linears,  black linears  etc
Mod to Tactiles  -  Blue Tactiles w Orange(salmon)2nd leaf springs,  Green Tactiles w white leaf springs,  Black Tactiles w Salmon leaf springs  etc
Mod to Clickys  -   Vice versa   As far as i experimented   

[nubbinator]

Please do a video comparing blue ALPS to click molded orange.
I don't care if you wont have a full board but I do want to see what it's like.

If I have any to spare, I'll look at doing it.

[nubbinator]

I just got my PCB today.  I'm debating between butchering my AEK II plate or making a new one for the PCB.  I've got a file made up for costar stabilized switches (you'd need to mod the wire) or if someone wants to edit it for Alps, that would be great.  I was looking at BigBlueSaw for plates.  If anyone is interested, let me know and the material you're interested in so I can get some made.  It only really is worth it if 5+ people want a plate made. I may have another source that can be cheaper, but I won't make any guarantees on that until it's confirmed.

Material and cost breakdown at 5-9 units, before additional shipping cost. Unless otherwise specified, pricing is with the standard waterjet not low-taper since it's a relatively thin piece of material:

• 0.05in 5052 or 6061 Aluminum - $35.20 raw, $42.54 with basic finish; $46.48 low-taper waterjet cut, $52.82 basic finish, $57.62 bead blast
• 0.06in laser cut acrylic - Clear $19.36
• 0.063in Black Acetyl Plastic - $34.40
• 0.063in Clear PETG Plastic - $21.96
• 0.06in Clear Polycarbonate Plastic - $34.10
• 0.0598 Cold Rolled Steel A366/1008 - $44.40
• 0.048in Cold Rolled Steel A366/1008 - $40.88
• 0.048in Stainless Steel T-304 - $41, $47.34 with basic finish
• 0.06in Stainless Steel T-304 - $45.08, $51.42 with basic finishing
• 0.06in Stainless Steel 316 - $44.64, $50.98 with basic finishing

There are other options, but most are outside the 0.05-0.06in thickness range you need for the stabilizers to fit.

[CPTBadAss]

I'd be interested in one of the stainless steel options.

[jdcarpe]

I'd be interested in a 0.06 T-304 plate.

If you need me to make an exact replica of the AEKII plate, I can do that. Complete with Alps stab holes and everything. Let me know.

[mashby]

I'd follow CPTBadAss and jdcarpe lead. Whatever they get is what I'd go for as well and I'd like to get at least two.

[FrostyToast]

A stainless steel plate would be great.

[nubbinator]

Looks like 0.06in T-304 stainless it is.  I'll see if I can find a cheaper option, if not, BBS it is.  So far we're looking at 6 or 7 plates since I'm probably going to grab two.  The next price break with BBS is at 10 but I'll have to wait until I get home to see what it is. 

I'm assuming people might like powder coated as well as long as that doesn't mess up the cutout tolerances, so a raw plate should be fine.  I know it's not necessary with T-304, but it does change the aesthetics.  I can look at trying to find a place locally, seeing if a guy I know who does metalwork for boats can do it, or look at a cheap harbor freight gun and cheap toaster oven if people are interested in that.

Also that would be great JD.  I don't know if you want the one that swill's tool spat out with Costar stabilizers or if you'd prefer to make it from scratch, just let me know either way.

[CPTBadAss]

I've got no preference on the plate color. Whatever people want

[FrostyToast]

For the colour we could go with something unique such as white seeing as how it's the only colour unattainable through anodized aluminum.
Or we could be baller and get gold powder coating.

[jou]

No but if second run occurs I'll make contact with you and others who displayed their interest here.

*displays interest*

[henz]

for those who missed this, kin is making a tkl alps board, you can find it in the IC gb going to start beginning of may i belive. Same as here though, you need to slaughter a old kb to get a plate.

EDIT: And for the record, if round 2 happens, im in.

[echo0]

Interested in getting one to two round 2 PCB.  Also interested in the plate, whichever would be decided.   

[nubbinator]

Sent out a bunch of quote requests locally with the update file from JD.  BBS is $40.82 for 5-9 or $36.89 for 10-49 in 0.06in T-304 + shipping + reshipping.  Also looking into other possibilities.

[nubbinator]

One local quote came back at $21.50 per plate for laser cut and another came back at $29 for waterjet cutting.  I'm waiting to hear back from the others. 

Personally, I'm willing to pay the extra $8.50 a plate for waterjet cutting since it tends to be a nicer finish even though the tolerances are marginally worse.

Here's a form so I can get an idea of numbers.  Plate price may go down if we get more.  I'm definitely getting 2 at $30 a pop, maybe some more as extras.

Also did a legit GB listing that's awaiting mod approval in case there are more people who want in outside of the group here.

[njbair]

If we had a commitment on a round 2 I would totally get in on the plate buy. Ugh.

[jdcarpe]

I'd get 2 plates at $30 nubbs

[nubbinator]

I'd get 2 plates at $30 nubbs

I noticed you wanted laser cut, I'm probably not well versed enough, but could you explain for those like me why you would take one over the other?  I'm game for other, but would love to hear the pros and cons of each from someone better versed in it than me.

[njbair]

I'd get 2 plates at $30 nubbs

I noticed you wanted laser cut, I'm probably not well versed enough, but could you explain for those like me why you would take one over the other?  I'm game for other, but would love to hear the pros and cons of each from someone better versed in it than me.

Cheaper, more precise. That's probably it.

High volume stuff is still usually stamped for cost reasons.

[rsadek]

If we had a commitment on a round 2 I would totally get in on the plate buy. Ugh.

Same here! I signed up on the plate form anyway....but I need those PCBz!

[margo baggins]

I should come on forums more! v.sad I missed this one

[deci]

Oh damn. Sad I missed this.

Hasu please put me on the list for an assembled PCB and plate if you ever do another run.
I really want to put some clicky alps into my Duck Eagle case.

Thanks

[hasu]

Anyone have problem on Rev.A PCB?
Let me know anything you found so that I can fix them before next order.


I want to know:
- USB connector fits in your cases?
- Diodes and other components doesn't interfere with inside of case?
- Screw holes are ok?
- Key switch position is proper for your layout?

Problem I found so far is:
- USB connector is misaligned a blt.

Thanks,

[sprit]

Anyone have problem on Rev.A PCB?
....
Problem I found so far is:
- USB connector is misaligned a blt.

Thanks,

USB position a bit to the left?      Seems Not a problem.    Thanks!

[ctm]

Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)

[hasu]

Yeah, not big problem but it will be fixed in next revision.

With my Poker X case it looks like this. I'd like to know how it looks in other cases.

[Touch_It]

Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)

I've heard other people say this specifically about Matias.  I will try to experiment with this tonight and let you know

[hasu]

Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)

I've heard other people say this specifically about Matias.  I will try to experiment with this tonight and let you know

I don't feel tactile weirdness of backspace and other keys on AEK layout of orange Alps switches but I'm not so picky and have no sensitive fingers. But I can hear different sound(of tacile spring?) from every switches when pressing upper and bottom edge. I think it comes from structure of Alps switch.

Tried Simpliefied black switches, ah yes, I could feel a bit difference of tactility but it won't be big problem to me. I don't have Matias at hand now but I think structure of Matias is similar to rather Simplified one than Complicated.

[ctm]

Just want to double check, the switch under 1.75u backspace will be installed backward compared to other switches right? I am asking because my Matias switches feel a little differently depending on where they are pressed. Pressing from upper part makes it more tactile while pressing on lower part makes it more linear. (btw is this common among all ALPS or is it just Matias?)

I've heard other people say this specifically about Matias.  I will try to experiment with this tonight and let you know

I don't feel tactile weirdness of backspace and other keys on AEK layout of orange Alps switches but I'm not so picky and have no sensitive fingers. But I can hear different sound(of tacile spring?) from every switches when pressing upper and bottom edge. I think it comes from structure of Alps switch.

Tried Simpliefied black switches, ah yes, I could feel a bit difference of tactility but it won't be big problem to me. I don't have Matias at hand now but I think structure of Matias is similar to rather Simplified one than Complicated.

This tactile inconsistency is much less perceptible on keys with stabilizers. It's not very obvious if you don't pay attention to find it. Actually I never realize it until I read this thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=54392.0. But when I pay attention to it, it's indeed there, especially easy to feel it on top rows like number row. When pressed near bottom, it's like a soft tactile, whereas near top edge, it almost like a click.

[Heliosphere]

I'm in for a possible round 2.

[FrostyToast]

I don't have a board soldered up yet.
I will eventually so I will post pictures then.
Although if you want a picture of the usb positioning I guess I could provide that without assembly.

[sprit]

Yeah, not big problem but it will be fixed in next revision.

With my Poker X case it looks like this. I'd like to know how it looks in other cases.

Show Image

The Poker 1, 2 PCB itself is not centered for the USB connector, a bit to the left.
Your Alps PCB looks nice w that issue!    ;)    Wonderful Job!    :thumb:

[hasu]

I don't have a board soldered up yet.
I will eventually so I will post pictures then.
Although if you want a picture of the usb positioning I guess I could provide that without assembly.

Yes, you don't have to solder, just try installing it into your case. Pic would be appreciated. Thnaks.


I found Pok3r has less tolerance in its new aluminum case. I think someone want to use it with the PCB, we need to check.

http://roastpotatoes.github.io/2015/04/29/pok3r-review/

[ctm]

KBP V60 case also have a pretty small tolerance on USB port.

[njbair]

KBP V60 case also have a pretty small tolerance on USB port.
(Attachment Link)

Wow no kidding. Like zero.

[DanielT]

Today I picked up my PCB from the Customs Office, I'm the happy owner of PCB number 7 
Now is  time to butcher my Dell and build this board
Thanks Hasu 

[Applet]

Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on

Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort. 

[hasu]

Thanks for posting pic! Nice legends
ISO keys, HHKB Rshift and split Backspace seem to work somehow, good to know.

[Hzza]

Thanks for posting pic! Nice legends
ISO keys, HHKB Rshift and split Backspace seem to work somehow, good to know.

I'm also really happy they work .

[CPTBadAss]

Ugh I keep forgetting to do great fits on my pure stock case and pure cnc case.

[DanielT]

Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on

Show Image

Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort.  ;D

That's one bad ass board the symbol of a prototype board :D Love seeing boards being built and I think this was the whole point of this project. I started working on mine, tomorrow I'm working from home just to finish this beauty  :cool:

[Applet]

Thanks for posting pic! Nice legends
ISO keys, HHKB Rshift and split Backspace seem to work somehow, good to know.

Did you not expect this configuration to work?

That's one bad ass board the symbol of a prototype board Love seeing boards being built and I think this was the whole point of this project. I started working on mine, tomorrow I'm working from home just to finish this beauty 

Glad you like it, I hope you all post pics of your boards when they are done, I'm looking forward to seeing them

[DanielT]

I have finished my board. I'm more than happy, it looks and works amazing. I can confirm that Dell layout works 100%, more than that, you can cut the plate without affecting any of the stab mounts. Is perfect. Now I have to learn how to program it . I have black Alps, which are quite nice, I didn't had any other choice anyway  I think I will mod them to linear Alps, but not today.
Thanks Hasu for this opportunity !  You did a great job designing this PCB, for the first time I type on Alps on my favorite form factor 60%.
This is board Nr.7 , and I'm the proud owner 

[DanielT]

When I have some spare time I will upload the photos and make a thread with the build of this board, maybe it will be helpful for others. Now I have to learn how to use TMK firmware, because on the default layout I don't have Fn and I need my function layer 

[Hzza]

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!

Speak to 7bit and get some Matias switches in there .

[sprit]

Soldered and programmed my board yesterday, so far everything works great with the PCB. The plate I modded for this is not pretty and might need further modding (I don't have a ISO enter to try my stabs). This is how it looks now, I really need the new caps Matias is working on

Show Image

Don't worry about my drawing on the keycaps, they are not great (from a rubber dome) and the ink rubs off with some effort.  ;D

Good Job!   :o :o   I guess You can get caps from Apple Extended anytime   :thumb: