Rosewill RK-9000RE Modding Plans

[Rinx7]

So I have decided that I am going to buy a Rosewill RK-9000 with Reds as soon as I have got enough cash, but I hate the logo so I have come up with a plan to mod the keyboard so I don't have to stare at it anymore can you guys tell me what you think and if there are any problems with this plan. Also what kind of stabilizers does it use, I think it would use Costar since it is from the same OEM as Filco but I am not sure.

I was going to wrap it in Matt Film from 3M
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchprint-Series-Matte-Black/dp/B00598U2EM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331573199&sr=1-1

Then I was going to stick these keycaps on it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/104-PBT-White-Engraved-keycaps-for-Mechanical-keyboard-Cherry-Filco-Noppoo-/300598729920?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item45fd149cc0

Can you guys tell me what you think of this plan and if there are any problems with it or the keyboard that I should be aware of.

[sth]

Should be fine, and that will look pretty dang good once you get a red esc key. Have you thought about just painting the case via wetsanding method?

[Rinx7]

I don't really know anything about painting, I was just going to wrap it because that isn't too hard, can you link a tutorial.

[sth]

I don't know of any off the top of my head, but try searching geekhack.
Basically, the process is pretty simple -- sand / clean component, apply a base coat, wetsand, then apply as many more coats as it takes to get it looking nice, wetsanding in between each process. You can go the extra mile and clearcoat it too.

[tp4tissue]

I don't know of any off the top of my head, but try searching geekhack.
Basically, the process is pretty simple -- sand / clean component, apply a base coat, wetsand, then apply as many more coats as it takes to get it looking nice, wetsanding in between each process. You can go the extra mile and clearcoat it too.

Yea, please don't do say it like it's in any ways EASY.....  if you've ever had woods class you'd know how ridiculously hard it is to get that glassy mirror shine on wood... It is even harder on plastic..

to get to a factory shine finish, we're talking 7-8 coats, + wet sanding. IT SUCKS...... cuz you gotta wait for drying and stuff...


Now remember the 3M coating isn't that easy to put on either,, and if you're at all OCD, which I think being on Geekhack, you probably are, then just DON't bother,


get some eraser, and rubb off the logo, or put a sticker over it, and call it a day... I'm for serial..

Cuz the 3M coating, you also need to apply with heat gun, or a "VERY even blowdryer" and the seams won't match perfectly on the side.....If you're not OCD,, and can live with that, sure,, but most people can't possibly live with that.

[tp4tissue]

Sandblast that sucker.

See my rig in my Sig.

All of your suggestions cost wayyyy more than a simple DBZ sticker would..

[Rinx7]

Eraser plus Filco Label = Ghetto Filco
Sounds good to me, I suppose I just won't bother wrapping the thing then.

[tp4tissue]

Eraser plus Filco Label = Ghetto Filco
Sounds good to me, I suppose I just won't bother wrapping the thing then.

Ghetto is the way to go... Save money for the important stuff, like booze and cocaine.

[Rinx7]

The Rosewill Logo is worse than a black smudge.

[tp4tissue]

Depends on my mood that day.  Sometimes I'm into script fonts.
(Attachment Link) 43973[/ATTACH]

it's really unattractive script...  just Ickky... and the fact that it's on a keyboard, where nearly everything is hard 90' edges. it' just contrasts horribly...

[Rinx7]

I really wish I could paint the thing, but I know nothing about it. Also I was wondering Ripster since you seem to know about this sort of thing, is there anywhere I can get some Red PBT WASD and Esc keys?

[Henry Allen Venture]

I really wish I could paint the thing, but I know nothing about it.

See quote below, its really all there is to it:

I don't know of any off the top of my head, but try searching geekhack.
Basically, the process is pretty simple -- sand / clean component, apply a base coat, wetsand, then apply as many more coats as it takes to get it looking nice, wetsanding in between each process. You can go the extra mile and clearcoat it too.

I'm just about to start painting a keyboard myself, using that exact same process.

[tp4tissue]

See quote below, its really all there is to it:



I'm just about to start painting a keyboard myself, using that exact same process.

Don't do it,, just don't do it,, because home equipment is never as good as a pro shop.. take it to a auto paint shop, and they'll do you perfect for a pretty low price...

[Henry Allen Venture]

Don't do it,, just don't do it,, because home equipment is never as good as a pro shop.. take it to a auto paint shop, and they'll do you perfect for a pretty low price...

I am going to do it, mainly because the whole point of me starting this was for me to have something to do...

If I'm not happy with the end product, I can very easily sand it back and take it to an auto shop, anyway.
I'm generally pretty good with working with stuff like this, because I put the time and effort in to do it properly, so I don't see there being any problems.

ALSO: Seeing as how this is a keyboard enthusiast forum, I can't help but think that I should point out the fact that your ',' and '.' keys appear to be messed up somehow. Either that, or you've got a killer double-tap...

[Rinx7]

What kind of paint do you guys recommend I looked up the process and I think I could maybe do it if I had some extra time.

[Henry Allen Venture]

Thats the only thing I haven't really nutted out yet. If you go to the link in my sig for the Portal mod, and look in the discussion section, theres a guy who posted some really useful information. I haven't got up to painting it yet, so I haven't given it much thought. That project took a back seat to restoring this Model M I just got. Finishing cleaning it out now. The previous owner was a f**king pig...
The one consolation is that all the hair thats in here is straight, so I'm pretty confident they aren't pubes. Still gross, though. Just... Less gross.

[Rinx7]

Well if I shouldn't paint it should I just spend copious amounts of time wrapping it and making sure it is perfect then.

[Rinx7]

Hmmm, I suppose I will just wait and see then, I don't really want to paint I suppose I should just try to remove the logo then try to paint if that doesn't work.

[Henry Allen Venture]

it'll simply be easier to re-wrap than prep and re-paint.

That doesn't sound right, but I'll take your word for it.
In any case, if my paintjob does start to wear after three years, I'll be happy to give it a touch-up.

[purple_haze]

Very few people post their painted keyboard after 3 years of use.

That may tell you something.

I was in that kind crowd, decided the paint my blue and white ergonomic multimedia keyboard and it lasted probably 6-8 months and started rubbing off and looked really bad.  I then just threw the sucker in the trash and bout a ergonomic 4000 which now collecting dust since i joined the mechanical keyboard game.

[anselben]

It would be nice to get one and wrap it, thinking about getting one with reds..

[Rinx7]

So after all of this, first I am going to rub off the logo and if that doesn't work buy some nice 3M wrap and just wrap the thing up.

[Rinx7]

What is this sugar cube trick?

[tp4tissue]

What is this sugar cube trick?

DONT DO IT..... either go with the plasti-dip which peels off pretty easily if you fvck up.. or buy some dbz stickers.

I am not sure if the solvents that is used to emulsify the pasti-dip will affect / melt the original finish.. so "test on a small place to make sure.

[tp4tissue]

for textured and non-polished surfaces, try rubbing a sugar cube on the logo to see if it's abrasive enough to remove the paint but not damage the surface of the plastic.  try it on the back/bottom first.

stop that, you're making him wanna do it.

[tp4tissue]

Even if it is unlikely to work it IS a sweet mod.

Is this all you do all day, getting the last laugh..LOLOLOL

[fohat.digs]

I would have bought a Rosewill last time, except that the logo is so genuinely butt-ugly I knew that I could never have tolerated it on my desk.

My next keyboard, whenever, will be a full-size browns, and I assumed that I would need to get a Filco to be truly happy.

Is the Rosewill logo raised or embossed? I would not be opposed to a minor project and cover-up with something cool, if it was not too ghetto.

Also, I have an electric eraser and various rubber and plastic refills, so I can do a pretty clean removal job, for paint or print or decal, if I have to.