Prevent ABS Yellowing?

[eyesnine]

I was wondering if anyone here has had success with a coating that prevents ABS yellowing.

I've found some products: Krylon Fusion Clear, Krylon UV Resistant Clear Matte Spray, and 303 Aerospace Protectant to name a few.

The Krylon sprays look ideal, but I've read mixed reviews, so I'm hesitant to use those.

[tp4tissue]

I was wondering if anyone here has had success with a coating that prevents ABS yellowing.

I've found some products: Krylon Fusion Clear, Krylon UV Resistant Clear Matte Spray, and 303 Aerospace Protectant to name a few.

The Krylon sprays look ideal, but I've read mixed reviews, so I'm hesitant to use those.

The most practical thing i can think of is a Keyboard cover to prevent UV exposure.. for when you're not using it..


Also, get a black abs board, LOL,, it'll still yellow and attain a "brownish-yellow" sheen over time, but on black it's not particularly noticeable


This is why I opted not to get a white based keyboard,,

[eyesnine]

I found some discussion on an RC forum, but it's not very useful.

They aim for making the plastic as shiny as possible, which is the opposite of what I'm trying to achieve, but it did give me some ideas.

I think I might try the Krylon UV Resistant Clear Matte spray in combination with a plastics primer.

[tp4tissue]

I found some discussion on an RC forum, but it's not very useful.

They aim for making the plastic as shiny as possible, which is the opposite of what I'm trying to achieve, but it did give me some ideas.

I think I might try the Krylon UV Resistant Clear Matte spray in combination with a plastics primer.

Was the spray and primer meant to be hand-handled? I saw some stuff at homedepot, but the guy told me they'd rub off if I kept touching it.


Went to the website just now, it seems like the spray is only recommended for "display items"

[eyesnine]

Well, I don't think I'd use it on key caps - I was planning on using it on just the case. I might have to be a guinea pig and coat a space bar to see how it holds up.

It mentions in the retr0bright wiki to use an acrylic varnish, which is basically what those Krylon products are, but I haven't found any discussion on which ones work best, or how to apply them.

[eyesnine]

Has no one tried this yet? I searched and used the wiki, and have had no luck. Is there a better forum for this question?

[eyesnine]

Not exactly the response I was hoping for... I guess I'll try another forum.

I think that people who do car interiors should know how to do this.

[Squelos]

The banned man has spoken.
Seriously, its going to be hard to find a coating that is UV resistant, and also, resistant to mechanical use.

Dont forget that we actually manage to "polish" the keycaps with our fingers.
SO really, the friction, induced by the use of the keyboard, isnt something you can easily overcome.

[eyesnine]

I realize that. Like I said, the case is the part of the keyboard I'd be coating.

I'm just worried about doing it wrong/using the wrong coating, then having it all flake off.

Also, if it wears off evenly, I don't think it would be a huge issue on the keycaps. It would prevent some yellowing for a little while at least. So long as it doesn't flake off I don't think it would hurt.

[Squelos]

Well I dont believe most coatings will flake off.

You probably wont notice it coming off.
It also wont wear off evenly. You only hit the top of the keycaps, and dont hit the keys in the center all the time. Some keys are going to be hit more often than others.
So the wear isnt going to be even on the keycaps, and not even between the keycaps.

So this might be an issue. But then if you are going to ABS keycaps, I believe you will be able to change them quite often.

The casing is going to be the main problem.
I suspect that the bottom part will have its coating wear off.

Maybe by getting an appropriate coating, you could nullify this.
But on some of my keyboards, I managed to shine the casing also. But then that was after really heavy use.

[eyesnine]

For steering wheels I'm seeing this stuff recommended: http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Nero-Rubber-Plastic-Dressing/dp/B000KMB408

It seems a little pricey compared to the Krylon sprays, and I'm not sure how long it will hold up.

There's no priming involved, though, so it should be easy to apply - by using a cloth applicator I could probably even reapply it without disassembling.

[koralatov]

Also, if it wears off evenly, I don't think it would be a huge issue on the keycaps. It would prevent some yellowing for a little while at least. So long as it doesn't flake off I don't think it would hurt.

It wouldn’t hurt, but it would be pretty pointless if it only protects it “for a little while”.  You’d be best investigating Retr0bright, and periodically using it to remove any yellowing that becomes apparent.  Bearing in mind, of course, that it takes a good while before the plastics visibly start to yellow: it isn’t something that will appear over the course of a couple of months.

[eyesnine]

It wouldn’t hurt, but it would be pretty pointless if it only protects it “for a little while”.  You’d be best investigating Retr0bright, and periodically using it to remove any yellowing that becomes apparent.  Bearing in mind, of course, that it takes a good while before the plastics visibly start to yellow: it isn’t something that will appear over the course of a couple of months.

It mentions in the retr0bright wiki to use an acrylic varnish, which is basically what those Krylon products are, but I haven't found any discussion on which ones work best, or how to apply them.

Furthermore, if you check the retr0bright wiki here: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Using+Retr0Bright

You'll notice this:

To permanently prevent the yellowing from returning, just coat the parts with a clear acrylic varnish. Alternatively, you could use a protective polish such as Armor-All or Autoglym to provide a UV protectant to the surface.

Following the retr0bright instructions is exactly what I'm investigating, the final step in particular.

I've already retr0brighted a number of keyboards, and I'd like to avoid doing it again. I've seen the pitfalls of retr0brighting, and I have a feeling that repeatedly retr0brighting the same keyboard over and over will eventually destroy it.

[tp4tissue]

Furthermore, if you check the retr0bright wiki here: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Using+Retr0Bright

You'll notice this:



Following the retr0bright instructions is exactly what I'm investigating, the final step in particular.

I've already retr0brighted a number of keyboards, and I'd like to avoid doing it again. I've seen the pitfalls of retr0brighting, and I have a feeling that repeatedly retr0brighting the same keyboard over and over will eventually destroy it.

What pitfalls are you refering to.

[eyesnine]

What pitfalls are you refering to.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Problems+and+Pitfalls

[darksakul]

I think the biggest problem is the inherit issues with ABS plastic and UV ray exposure. The issue is with all ABS plastics and not just key caps. But it does not help that keycaps get so much phsyical contact that we polish the keys with regular use.
You can even see the issue with ABS plastic on older items, IMB Model M keyboar, and even non-keyboards like the Super Nintendo. Just try to find a Super Nintendo that isn't yellowing. Even in this link http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Problems+and+Pitfalls you see the issues.

I am surprised no one mentioned vinyl dye. Vinyl dye used to recolor automobile vinyl interior, but the product works on ABS plastic as well. It comes in a aerosol can and is applied like spray paint. The thing with Vinyl dye is it does not work well on dark materials, and you will lose most labeling on your keycaps. I think only engraved and laser printing is resistant, as the dye seeps into plastics (like in dye sublimation printing). If anything I think Vinyl Dye can ruin Dye sub prints as the dye from dye subs are simular to vinyl dye (if not the same). I also think Vinyl dye is a waste on double shot keys, as you end up dying both colors of plastic.

[tp4tissue]

I think the biggest problem is the inherit issues with ABS plastic and UV ray exposure. The issue is with all ABS plastics and not just key caps. But it does not help that keycaps get so much phsyical contact that we polish the keys with regular use.
You can even see the issue with ABS plastic on older items, IMB Model M keyboar, and even non-keyboards like the Super Nintendo. Just try to find a Super Nintendo that isn't yellowing. Even in this link http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Problems+and+Pitfalls you see the issues.

I am surprised no one mentioned vinyl dye. Vinyl dye used to recolor automobile vinyl interior, but the product works on ABS plastic as well. It comes in a aerosol can and is applied like spray paint. The thing with Vinyl dye is it does not work well on dark materials, and you will lose most labeling on your keycaps. I think only engraved and laser printing is resistant, as the dye seeps into plastics (like in dye sublimation printing). If anything I think Vinyl Dye can ruin Dye sub prints as the dye from dye subs are simular to vinyl dye (if not the same). I also think Vinyl dye is a waste on double shot keys, as you end up dying both colors of plastic.

Is there white vinyl dye? and does it also work on pbt?

[PRISONER 24601]

Yellowing of plastic is natural, man! Don't kill your earth mother!

Let it all hang out- embrace the bromine; let your freak flag fly!

[darksakul]

Is there white vinyl dye? and does it also work on pbt?

Yes there is a White Vinyl dye. And I have no idea how Vinyl dye works on PBT as I am not familiar with the material

[Edit]
Chemically Vinyl dye is simular to the dye in dye sub printing so I think it should work. Best to get a test piece just in case.

Keep in mind Vinyl Dying something that is already a dark color like Dark grey or Black never comes out quite right.
Also having plastic painted before hand, even if the paint is removed kills its ability to be dyed evenly as the microscopic pores are closed up.
Removed pad printing isn't an issue