Help w mech keyboard

[spiralsc2]

Ive sorta figured out what I want in terms of a mech keyboard now, but I dont know enough of the keyboards to know which is the board im looking for
Full size, Cherry blues, at least 8-key rollover (i usually dont hit higher than 8-key rollover on sc2), something that looks a little bit more... "generic"? i like the look of the Poker/Pure, but those arent fullsize ^^;;

[jeroplane]

Filco Majestouch 2 and Leopold Tactile Click (FC200R or FC500R) are two solid boards (the Filco more so than the Leopold) which have a very "generic" or "minimalist" look.

[FoxWolf1]

^ those would do it. Noppoo TANK with MX Blue might also fit the description, if you have a slightly more old-fashioned idea of what looks "generic".

[tp4tissue]

quickfire rapid, as always, best board for the dollar EVER

[FoxWolf1]

He wants full size, though.

[tp4tissue]

He wants full size, though.

NO he doesn't,  WE.... know better. listen to wise geekhack.

Pro korean players use TKL. 

[spiralsc2]

yeah... but i ordered a numpad w Terran Logo stretched over it... now i dont want to waste that do i?

[spiralsc2]

plus im not only using it for gaming, schoolwork (excels) will be done on it too

[spiralsc2]

Is the Filco worth the extra $60 over the leopold??

[tp4tissue]

Is the Filco worth the extra $60 over the leopold??
[/quote

Hell fvck no... the leopold isn't even worth the extra $40 over the new label-less CMstorm quickfire..


As for the excel work that the op proclaims he'll be doing. Just bust out your old keyboard for that should the time comes.

Truth is, even thought you WILL be using excel, it doesn't mean you'll use it all that often.

[precarious]

Filco Majestouch 2 with MX Brown switches was my first board and worth every penny, you really can't go wrong with that as your first.

[karljs]

Coming from somebody who owns two of them, Filcos are wonderful, but don't expect to get $50 more keyboard than you will buying a Leopold or WASD or similar. Keyboards, like most things, come with diminishing returns as you approach the top of the line.

[scytheR]

Sorry but i have a horror story for FILCO. Now i'm not saying you should entirely base it off myself and ruin the experience for yourself as many others will disagree with me and say that FILCO is a reputable brand, but a friend and I purchased FILCO majestouches (the first) a year ago from armygroup.tw and mine broke in a week (the s key). I sent it back for $45 AUD back to taiwan to claim warranty for its repair, came back and broke again in 3 days but the X key this time. Not having the income to support constant repairs, i scrapped it and took up my old crappy rubber dome Logitech K200. My friends was going well besides myself until 2 weeks ago when his backspace stopped working on one of his computers. It still works on other computers though.. Don't know why.

TL;DR  - My filco broke, my friends partially broke. I don't like Filco's much anymore.

[stingrae]

TL;DR  - My filco broke, my friends partially broke. I don't like Filco's much anymore.

It can happen with any cherry switch, at least they can be fixed. I would actually buy a soldering iron and do it if it happened...(edit: uhh it did but im lazy, well happened on my choc mini fn key grr...)

I'd get a WASD if requiring fullsized in the US...looks nice and is an ok price and has a good oem (the same as filco).

[scytheR]

sorry to hijack this thead.. but should i fix it or sell it as broken? if i have to buy a soldering kit, how much would i need to spend to get a decent kit :L
i feel as if i might only use the iron once to fix it though so i really dont want to spend tooo much ==;

[tp4tissue]

sorry to hijack this thead.. but should i fix it or sell it as broken? if i have to buy a soldering kit, how much would i need to spend to get a decent kit :L
i feel as if i might only use the iron once to fix it though so i really dont want to spend tooo much ==;

IDK bout aus.. but in the USA, budget soldering kits are $4 dollars. Even comes with small tube of resin and solder. Thankyou China

[FoxWolf1]

Fixing it is definitely more fun than just selling it.

[scytheR]

are random generic soldering kits on ebay from hong kong trustable? I'm scared it might die out on me in 3 minutes or so and i'll end up spending more than i plan to buying another set. Which one of the below two sound okay?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30W-Electric-Welding-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Tool-Solder-Wire-Reel-Stand-AU-Adapter-/120967911086?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item1c2a3fd6ae

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SANSAI-Professional-25W-Electric-Soldering-Iron-Stand-Solder-Roll-PE-25-/380452219389?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&hash=item5894b829fd

Or i might check in the local shopping centres and see if they have anything there

[tp4tissue]

are random generic soldering kits on ebay from hong kong trustable? I'm scared it might die out on me in 3 minutes or so and i'll end up spending more than i plan to buying another set. Which one of the below two sound okay?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30W-Electric-Welding-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Tool-Solder-Wire-Reel-Stand-AU-Adapter-/120967911086?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item1c2a3fd6ae

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SANSAI-Professional-25W-Electric-Soldering-Iron-Stand-Solder-Roll-PE-25-/380452219389?pt=AU_Lighting_Fans&hash=item5894b829fd

Or i might check in the local shopping centres and see if they have anything there

Yup. those are very similar to the $4 kits sold here in the USA.

Basically what you have to be careful is, those soldering wands have NO temperature control or Limiter... So they will just get Hotter and hotter..

If you leave one on for a few minutes the tip will already begin to degrade, turn black and start to "literally" disintegrate.

this doesn't really impact it's function, it will still be safe to use on the board. But since you're only fixing ONE switch. This shouldn't happen.

Make sure to also purchase SOLDER braid, or soldering wick.

This helps remove the solder that's already on the switch.


Depending on what type of solder is used on the Filco, you may have to wait for the soldering iron to get Super Hot. because the solder might have a high melting point

DO NOT touch the tip to the board for more than 4 seconds, because you risk melting something.

If the solder does not melt in that time, wait for the iron to get hotter.

Make sure to have the braid/wick ready to suck up the solder you want to remove.

[scytheR]

Ooh okay thanks a lot for the quick guide hopefully I won't stuff it up

[rowdy]

Personally I would not trust those eBay ones, I'd get something locally (although somewhat more expensive), like:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TS1620&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=953#1

Although "entry level". if looked after, it should last you a few years.

Or, if you wanted just the soldering iron:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TS1475&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=953#1

At least these would be approved for use in Australia (as in conforming to Australian safety standards etc.).

FWIW I have a stand-alone cheap soldering iron from DSE that gets pulled out once every few years.  It is on its third tip now, and just keeps going.

[scytheR]

Ah thanks for your concern, unfortunately i already bought it so if i was to change my mind now it'd be too late. Hopefully i hope it'll last more than one soldering job, then i'm all good cause i don't really do much repair/electronic work.. haha