Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Badwrench]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

[CPTBadAss]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

I've never calculated any voltages for my LEDs, I've just done swaps. I haven't had issues so far. But check out this thread for some actual information and numbers.

In my own experience, I haven't had trouble with just putting LEDs into a board. Doesn't mean that I won't hit a problem in the future though. I think your LEDs will be fine and I think your QFR swap will be fine.

[Badwrench]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

I've never calculated any voltages for my LEDs, I've just done swaps. I haven't had issues so far. But check out this thread for some actual information and numbers.

In my own experience, I haven't had trouble with just putting LEDs into a board. Doesn't mean that I won't hit a problem in the future though. I think your LEDs will be fine and I think your QFR swap will be fine.

Cool, ordering leds now then. 

[swill]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

I've never calculated any voltages for my LEDs, I've just done swaps. I haven't had issues so far. But check out this thread for some actual information and numbers.

In my own experience, I haven't had trouble with just putting LEDs into a board. Doesn't mean that I won't hit a problem in the future though. I think your LEDs will be fine and I think your QFR swap will be fine.

Instead of necro'ing that thread, maybe someone here can give me some info.  My understanding is that the current through the LED determines its brightness.  The LEDs I have are rated for up to 20mA (I think), but what is the minimum current that will still make it light up a reasonable amount.

Assuming the following is true for my leds
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / resistor
I currently have 1.13k resistors, so this would give me...
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / 1131 => I = 1.64mA

Is that even close to enough current to make the LEDs light up a reasonable amount?

[dorkvader]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

I've never calculated any voltages for my LEDs, I've just done swaps. I haven't had issues so far. But check out this thread for some actual information and numbers.

In my own experience, I haven't had trouble with just putting LEDs into a board. Doesn't mean that I won't hit a problem in the future though. I think your LEDs will be fine and I think your QFR swap will be fine.

Instead of necro'ing that thread, maybe someone here can give me some info.  My understanding is that the current through the LED determines its brightness.  The LEDs I have are rated for up to 20mA (I think), but what is the minimum current that will still make it light up a reasonable amount.

Assuming the following is true for my leds
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / resistor
I currently have 1.13k resistors, so this would give me...
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / 1131 => I = 1.64mA

Is that even close to enough current to make the LEDs light up a reasonable amount?

well.

It depends on what you mean by "reasonable".
Taking an LED with similar characteristics (but with a datasheet)
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/cree.C503B%20BAS%20BAN%20BCS%20BCN%20GAS%20GAN%20GCS%20GCN%201094%5B1%5D.pdf
you see that brightness is pretty close to linear with current.

This graph (for a different brand) shows the same thing, but I think the double log scale is easier to read:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/LNJ998CKCDA_E-255675.pdf (perhaps not a good comparison, they are listed as 400 mcd, which is pretty dim)

So 1.64 is 8% of 20, so you'll get 8% of the light out from it. If it's rated for 10,000 mcd (at 20 mA), then you'll get 800 mcd out (at 1.64 mA).

To compare, some LEDs are only "supposed" to put out about 400 mcd normally, so they'll certainly be visible. Weather or not that's a reasonable level is up to you. Looking at the numbers, I think it'll be fine, though you'll have more current with a lower Vf (red or amber) or lower resistance.

Another thing to keep in mind: if you are flowing 1.64 mA through each LED, you can only have a certain amount of LEDs on the board before there's too much current for the USB to support. When I was doing LED resistance calculations for sprit, I remember that 1-2 mA (certainly less than 5) was about all you could get before you ran into the USB power requirement.

Of course, Looking at it yourself is the only way to know for sure, but I think it'll be more than adequate.

Hope this helps.

[swill]

Just wanted to check if these leds would be a good swap from green on a KBT Pure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320999089508&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en.
or the diffused white if those would look better. 

Also, is it possible to go from red to purple without changing the diodes on a QFR for the caps lock, win lock, and scroll lock?

I've never calculated any voltages for my LEDs, I've just done swaps. I haven't had issues so far. But check out this thread for some actual information and numbers.

In my own experience, I haven't had trouble with just putting LEDs into a board. Doesn't mean that I won't hit a problem in the future though. I think your LEDs will be fine and I think your QFR swap will be fine.

Instead of necro'ing that thread, maybe someone here can give me some info.  My understanding is that the current through the LED determines its brightness.  The LEDs I have are rated for up to 20mA (I think), but what is the minimum current that will still make it light up a reasonable amount.

Assuming the following is true for my leds
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / resistor
I currently have 1.13k resistors, so this would give me...
I = (5.05 - 3.2) / 1131 => I = 1.64mA

Is that even close to enough current to make the LEDs light up a reasonable amount?

well.

It depends on what you mean by "reasonable".
Taking an LED with similar characteristics (but with a datasheet)
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/cree.C503B%20BAS%20BAN%20BCS%20BCN%20GAS%20GAN%20GCS%20GCN%201094%5B1%5D.pdf
you see that brightness is pretty close to linear with current.

This graph (for a different brand) shows the same thing, but I think the double log scale is easier to read:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/LNJ998CKCDA_E-255675.pdf (perhaps not a good comparison, they are listed as 400 mcd, which is pretty dim)

So 1.64 is 8% of 20, so you'll get 8% of the light out from it. If it's rated for 10,000 mcd (at 20 mA), then you'll get 800 mcd out (at 1.64 mA).

To compare, some LEDs are only "supposed" to put out about 400 mcd normally, so they'll certainly be visible. Weather or not that's a reasonable level is up to you. Looking at the numbers, I think it'll be fine, though you'll have more current with a lower Vf (red or amber) or lower resistance.

Another thing to keep in mind: if you are flowing 1.64 mA through each LED, you can only have a certain amount of LEDs on the board before there's too much current for the USB to support. When I was doing LED resistance calculations for sprit, I remember that 1-2 mA (certainly less than 5) was about all you could get before you ran into the USB power requirement.

Of course, Looking at it yourself is the only way to know for sure, but I think it'll be more than adequate.

Hope this helps.

This is a great response. Thank you very much, I appreciate it.

I will be doing a full sprit board of led's on both a 60% and a 75%, so this is really good information.

These resistors should be perfect then.

[asgeirtj]

If you are using o-rings, is the thickness of the keycaps irrelevant?

[CPTBadAss]

If you are using o-rings, is the thickness of the keycaps irrelevant?

Yes, I think swill's post has a good explanation on this.

[swill]

If you are using o-rings, is the thickness of the keycaps irrelevant?

Yes, I think swill's post has a good explanation on this.

The keycap profile makes the most difference.  You need very different o-rings for Cherry vs OEM profile keycaps.  I have not found the thickness of the keycap to play a major role (unless the keycaps are missing the cross braces at the bottom of the stem).

[combataran]

What's the best way t ship a Realforce box(with board) internationally? What I mean is do I use an extra box, fill it with Polystyrene balls(?), then tape it up like a maniac, or just like how it came to me, a dense foam sheet wrapped around the box(laterally), the whole thing packed in that postal plastic bag thing?

How do I maximize protection while minimizing packaging costs?

[CPTBadAss]

What's the best way t ship a Realforce box(with board) internationally? What I mean is do I use an extra box, fill it with Polystyrene balls(?), then tape it up like a maniac, or just like how it came to me, a dense foam sheet wrapped around the box(laterally), the whole thing packed in that postal plastic bag thing?

How do I maximize protection while minimizing packaging costs?

My standard packaging method is to wrap the keyboard in a nice thick layer of bubble wrap. Then put the keyboard in a sturdy box then stuff the remaining space with newspaper.

If your box is already used and a bit beat up, find a new box. In the US, USPS has flat rate board game boxes that work well for full size boards or if you want to go heavy on the protection (as I did with the 6019284s).

Edit: I also *always* tape all the openings to the boxes. Just added piece of mind and security.

[combataran]

Great! Thanks for the tip!
 

[kakakowie]

I've noticed a couple of 60% custom PCBs such as GH60, Facew, GON.
All of them seem to have full customisation options.

So is there any real difference between all of them?
Thanks.

[CPTBadAss]

I've noticed a couple of 60% custom PCBs such as GH60, Facew, GON.
All of them seem to have full customisation options.

So is there any real difference between all of them?
Thanks.

Cases that go with them. And GH60 currently doesn't have LED support. Think the firmware and controller are different too.

[fohat.digs]

What's the best way t ship a Realforce box(with board) internationally? What I mean is do I use an extra box, fill it with Polystyrene balls(?), then tape it up like a maniac, or just like how it came to me, a dense foam sheet wrapped around the box(laterally), the whole thing packed in that postal plastic bag thing?

How do I maximize protection while minimizing packaging costs?

I generally agree with Capt BadAss, but I must add that "the best" way to ship is to double-box with styrofoam peanuts all around the inner box.

Unfortunately, the carriers charge for both weight and volume, and double-boxing greatly increases the volume, more so than the weight.

And also, keyboards really are generally pretty sturdy, compared to things like antiques and glassware.

[minho]

What spring weight does 62g correspond to when measuring to actuation point? (50 cN? 45?)

[exitfire401]

What spring weight does 62g correspond to when measuring to actuation point? (50 cN? 45?)

http://www.unitconversion.org/force/centinewtons-to-gram-forces-conversion.html

[jdcarpe]

What spring weight does 62g correspond to when measuring to actuation point? (50 cN? 45?)

It would be somewhere between 45-50cN, probably around 47.

[minho]

What spring weight does 62g correspond to when measuring to actuation point? (50 cN? 45?)

It would be somewhere between 45-50cN, probably around 47.

Ah, so one could swap with clear springs with brown or blue ones for something that is approximately like an ergo clear?

Thanks!

[jdcarpe]

What spring weight does 62g correspond to when measuring to actuation point? (50 cN? 45?)

It would be somewhere between 45-50cN, probably around 47.

Ah, so one could swap with clear springs with brown or blue ones for something that is approximately like an ergo clear?

Thanks!

Before Korean springs were generally available, that is exactly how we used to make ergo clears. In fact, that's pretty much the definition of an "ergo" clear...a clear stem with a spring from a red/brown/blue switch.

[Lain1911]

How do I take out stabilizers from legends? I tried this video and I made a scratch in my QFR (SadPandaFace)

[sakai4eva]

Is it possible to make a one hand ergodox. And for it to be the left hand? I'm thinking of an orbweaver alternative.

I made one a few weeks ago. It works great with soarer's firmware. I've been meaning to post pictures sometime.

Does anyone know where I can find keycaps set from official ergodox keyboard image?

Show Image

Welcome to Geekhack!

Those look almost like DSA.

You might try the Granite GB: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=56354.0

The keyset in that render was never actually produced, though the model is closest to SP's DSA

Exactly how did you manage that?

I've been meaning to build a flipped ergodox, but nobody seems to provide details on how it is done.

I really wanna ask for a loose guide, so that at least I know how differently I have to do things from the Massdrop guide, since it is one of the most detailed ones around.

[asgeirtj]

Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings. This was not a problem with my OEM Filco keycaps (I have a MJ2).  Is it because the keycaps are poorly built?  I ended just living with the clack instead of shortening the travel distance so much.

I use these o-rings: http://www.keyboardco.com/product/o-ring-switch-dampeners-for-filco-keyboards.asp

Anyone have any experience with them? Does anyone know what durometer they have?

[BlueBär]

Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings. This was not a problem with my OEM Filco keycaps (I have a MJ2).  Is it because the keycaps are poorly built?  I ended just living with the clack instead of shortening the travel distance so much.

The issue are probably the stabilizers making noise. Keycaps will also make a noise when they go back up which you can't dampen with O-rings.

How do I take out stabilizers from legends? I tried this video and I made a scratch in my QFR (SadPandaFace)

I think it's quite well shown in that video. At which part did you scratch your board?

[swill]

Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings. This was not a problem with my OEM Filco keycaps (I have a MJ2).  Is it because the keycaps are poorly built?  I ended just living with the clack instead of shortening the travel distance so much.

I use these o-rings: http://www.keyboardco.com/product/o-ring-switch-dampeners-for-filco-keyboards.asp

Anyone have any experience with them? Does anyone know what durometer they have?

Check and see if those keys have crossbars like the rest of the keys.

[CPTBadAss]

1) Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings.

2) I use these o-rings: http://www.keyboardco.com/product/o-ring-switch-dampeners-for-filco-keyboards.asp Anyone have any experience with them?

3) Does anyone know what durometer they have?

1) There are people who use multiple o-rings on their keyboards. Part of the reason you're having issues is because SP caps are really thin. The spacebar might sound different if you use different keycaps. You can also put some drawer liner in between your case and PCB to dampen some sounds. And you can lube the spacebar stabilizers as well as the backspace ones.

2) I imagine that the WASD red o-rings are similar but I've never used them

3) I don't know this.

How do I take out stabilizers from legends? I tried this video and I made a scratch in my QFR (SadPandaFace)

That video explains how to remove them very well. They're just friction fit into the plate so just pull them out with your hands. Or gently remove them with pliers.

[ideus]

Sound factors: The type of stabilizer also gives different support, and thus the sound may change. Also if the board has a plate may affect the final sound. I think the final sound relates more with the vibration of the entire assembly, including, case, plate - if included -, cap material, and profile, and in some minor degree, the switch type.

[CPTBadAss]

Sound factors: The type of stabilizer also gives different support, and thus the sound may change. Also if the board has a plate may affect the final sound. I think the final sound relates more with the vibration of the entire assembly, including, case, plate - if included -, cap material, and profile, and in some minor degree, the switch type.

Other things include what your keyboard is sitting on, what material your desk is made out of, and personal typing style. I always bottom out when I type so that would sound different from someone who doesn't.

[Melvang]

Sound factors: The type of stabilizer also gives different support, and thus the sound may change. Also if the board has a plate may affect the final sound. I think the final sound relates more with the vibration of the entire assembly, including, case, plate - if included -, cap material, and profile, and in some minor degree, the switch type.

Other things include what your keyboard is sitting on, what material your desk is made out of, and personal typing style. I always bottom out when I type so that would sound different from someone who doesn't.

Also, case material, amount of mass in the case, and I would think plate material will have an affect as well.

[combataran]

How's the build quality and QC of duck kits in general?

[CPTBadAss]

How's the build quality and QC of duck kits in general?

I've seen....two or three Ducky Mini V1's in person now? They looked great and I didn't see anything bad in terms of QC or shipping issues on Geekhack. Build quality is really really nice on the V1s. That case with the Poker suits on the back is one of my favorite cases I've seen, period. I suspect the V2 is just as nice.

[asgeirtj]

Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings. This was not a problem with my OEM Filco keycaps (I have a MJ2).  Is it because the keycaps are poorly built?  I ended just living with the clack instead of shortening the travel distance so much.

The issue are probably the stabilizers making noise. Keycaps will also make a noise when they go back up which you can't dampen with O-rings.

Nope there is also this issue with some other keys like number 4, 6, and 8

[CPTBadAss]

Nope there is also this issue with some other keys like number 4, 6, and 8

What switches are on your MJ2? In addition to my post above replying to you, switch type will change things.

[Zeal]

Does any of you sometime have to use multiple o-rings on a key to silence out the clack? I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings. This was not a problem with my OEM Filco keycaps (I have a MJ2).  Is it because the keycaps are poorly built?  I ended just living with the clack instead of shortening the travel distance so much.

The issue are probably the stabilizers making noise. Keycaps will also make a noise when they go back up which you can't dampen with O-rings.

Nope there is also this issue with some other keys like number 4, 6, and 8

Are you using SP's DCS profile keycaps? Those keycaps don't have a cross-support on the stem, so your oring probably got pushed too far back to even help reduce noise. That's why you have to place 2-3 for you to notice a change.

[CPTBadAss]

Are you using SP's DCS profile keycaps? Those keycaps don't have a cross-support on the stem, so your oring probably got pushed too far back to even help reduce noise. That's why you have to place 2-3 for you to notice a change.

I'm asking because I got my SP doubleshots and in order to silence the backspace and spacebar i had to put on 3 o-rings.

Yes he's using SP caps. I had the same problem when writing my review. I had to redo the review because of this.

[Lain1911]

How do I take out stabilizers from legends? I tried this video and I made a scratch in my QFR (SadPandaFace)

That video explains how to remove them very well. They're just friction fit into the plate so just pull them out with your hands. Or gently remove them with pliers.
[/quote]

When I used the flathead screw driver it fit perfectly in but it did not easily pull out. Pliers is probably what I will try next. when I pulled gently down the stabilizer didn't pop out and I had to pull down more forcefully. The screw driver popped out and I proceeded to grind into the plate about 1 inch. The video made it seem like the stabilizers are barely fitted on but mine are very snug and very hard to pop out. I suspect this is caused from not lubing them?

[CPTBadAss]

When I used the flathead screw driver it fit perfectly in but it did not easily pull out. Pliers is probably what I will try next. when I pulled gently down the stabilizer didn't pop out and I had to pull down more forcefully. The screw driver popped out and I proceeded to grind into the plate about 1 inch. The video made it seem like the stabilizers are barely fitted on but mine are very snug and very hard to pop out. I suspect this is caused from not lubing them?

They're supposed to be tight in there. It takes me a little force to remove them. I wouldn't have used a screwdriver for that exact reason.

[swill]

This might be a stupid question, but I figured I would check here first. 

So many people use ABS caps and the main complaint with them is that they will 'shine' after extended use.  I am guessing this shine is probably from the oils in our hands permeating the ABS plastic (but that is totally a guess).

Has anyone been able to 'unshine' ABS caps once they have started to shine?  Maybe washing them in water with dish soap?  Maybe lightly sanding with like 1000 grit sandpaper?  Has anyone been successful at removing shine?

If you haven't been successful but have tried stuff, that is interesting too because it is good data if people want to try ideas...

[esoomenona]

I've seen mention of shotpeening them to recreate the roughness. I don't know if it's the oils so much as it is the rubbing and touching of the softer material that eventually wears away that roughness, and leading to a more smooth surface that happens to be shiny.

[CPTBadAss]

So many people use ABS caps and the main complaint with them is that they will 'shine' after extended use.  I am guessing this shine is probably from the oils in our hands permeating the ABS plastic (but that is totally a guess).

Has anyone been able to 'unshine' ABS caps once they have started to shine?  Maybe washing them in water with dish soap?  Maybe lightly sanding with like 1000 grit sandpaper?  Has anyone been successful at removing shine?

Yes, I believe the shine is from oils in your hand getting into the ABS plastic. I typically clean my caps with denture tabs or dishwashing soap. Neither seems to remove the shine. I've never tried otherwise to remove shine.

I've seen mention of shotpeening them to recreate the roughness. I don't know if it's the oils so much as it is the rubbing and touching of the softer material that eventually wears away that roughness, and leading to a more smooth surface that happens to be shiny.

Dunno if you'd want to shotpeen keycaps. I'm not sure they'd handle the thermal stresses. Maybe sandblasting.

[esoomenona]

Maybe sandblasting was what I saw.

[CPTBadAss]

Maybe sandblasting was what I saw.

Were you thinking of this sandblasting thing from ripster? As soon as you said shotpeening, I thought of that imgur album.

[BlueBär]

You can try using a magic eraser to get rid of shine: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20243.0

[CPTBadAss]

You can try using a magic eraser to get rid of shine: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20243.0

I forgot about that....I've gotta try that one day on my WoB Cherry caps.

[swill]

You can try using a magic eraser to get rid of shine: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=20243.0

NICE!!!  That seemed to work pretty well.  I think thats the best option I have seen so far.   

[OnTheBrink]

So, it's my birthday next week and guess what I'm asking my girl to get me!?

You guessed it, a new keyboard.

Now, I recently picked up the FC660C and if you've read my threads/posts, I tried to mod the thing because I LOVE THE SWITCH, but I want it to be silenced badly. Unfortunately, even ironing landing pads made my sensitive fingers feel the difference.

This leads me to asking for a HHKB Type-S. The only thing is, I love the keycaps, but wish the base was black. My question is: has anyone tried having the case painted or did it themselves? I wouldn't mind it if in the future it wasn't super hard to have it painted black, or maybe something original, with a nice finish. I don't exactly want to ruin a $375 keyboard either.

Thoughts?

[riotonthebay]

So, it's my birthday next week and guess what I'm asking my girl to get me!?

You guessed it, a new keyboard.

Now, I recently picked up the FC660C and if you've read my threads/posts, I tried to mod the thing because I LOVE THE SWITCH, but I want it to be silenced badly. Unfortunately, even ironing landing pads made my sensitive fingers feel the difference.

This leads me to asking for a HHKB Type-S. The only thing is, I love the keycaps, but wish the base was black. My question is: has anyone tried having the case painted or did it themselves? I wouldn't mind it if in the future it wasn't super hard to have it painted black, or maybe something original, with a nice finish. I don't exactly want to ruin a $375 keyboard either.

Buy a Type-S and a regular black HHKB, swap cases, sell the non-Type-S-in-Type-S-white-case one.

[OnTheBrink]

So, it's my birthday next week and guess what I'm asking my girl to get me!?

You guessed it, a new keyboard.

Now, I recently picked up the FC660C and if you've read my threads/posts, I tried to mod the thing because I LOVE THE SWITCH, but I want it to be silenced badly. Unfortunately, even ironing landing pads made my sensitive fingers feel the difference.

This leads me to asking for a HHKB Type-S. The only thing is, I love the keycaps, but wish the base was black. My question is: has anyone tried having the case painted or did it themselves? I wouldn't mind it if in the future it wasn't super hard to have it painted black, or maybe something original, with a nice finish. I don't exactly want to ruin a $375 keyboard either.

Buy a Type-S and a regular black HHKB, swap cases, sell the non-Type-S-in-Type-S-white-case one.

Isn't the Type-S case slightly bigger?

[CPTBadAss]

I'm asking for a HHKB Type-S.  My question is: has anyone tried having the case painted or did it themselves?

It's plastic isn't it? I think you can paint it. I think because of the price point, you don't see many people trying to paint it.

[OnTheBrink]

I'm asking for a HHKB Type-S.  My question is: has anyone tried having the case painted or did it themselves?

It's plastic isn't it? I think you can paint it. I think because of the price point, you don't see many people trying to paint it.

Lol, that's what I'm thinking. I wonder how much it would cost to bring it to an automotive place and have them professionally do it. Maybe I'll get it powder coated or some wild ish.