Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3556609 times)

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Offline sakai4eva

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9150 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 11:00:25 »
Unfortunately, I don't think I can afford to buy Autocad unless I get the eyepatch version :(

Offline Vitaly

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9151 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 12:05:04 »
What thickness is good for PCB mount design plate?

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9152 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 12:26:39 »
Unfortunately, I don't think I can afford to buy Autocad unless I get the eyepatch version :(

If you're a student you get it for free on their website.

What thickness is good for PCB mount design plate?

Are asking for PCB thickness?

Offline Puddsy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9153 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 12:32:30 »
looks like he's asking for plate thickness
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Offline Vitaly

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9154 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 12:35:29 »
Unfortunately, I don't think I can afford to buy Autocad unless I get the eyepatch version :(

If you're a student you get it for free on their website.

What thickness is good for PCB mount design plate?

Are asking for PCB thickness?
Yes pcb thickness (metal plate thickness for future projects also good to know)

Offline hwood34

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9155 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 13:32:30 »
So what in the sam hell are these (sorry, apparently the seller has the worst camera in the entire world)? The second one look mx compatibleish
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Still no idea on the first one. Very tall, transparent housing and a metal slider doesn't ring a bell and I couldn't find anything in the DT wiki either.

I did find something about the other switch though: It is an unknown switch that is currently labelled USw LXBW01.
Here's the DT wiki article: http://deskthority.net/wiki/USw_LXBW01
And here is an imgur album of somebody who found some of these switches before: http://imgur.com/a/zgCm6
Ah, guess I'll just have to wait to find out on the first one ;)
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Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9156 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 14:08:26 »
Yes pcb thickness (metal plate thickness for future projects also good to know)

PCB and plate should be 1.6mm thick.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9157 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 15:26:46 »
Unfortunately, I don't think I can afford to buy Autocad unless I get the eyepatch version :(
You can register any email address and just say you're a student. I have a 5 year license and I just dled it from their student side.

Offline Candyflip

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9158 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 15:48:16 »
You can get every Autodesk product from their site for free even with a Gmail account. Just search for student downloads they don't require .edu mail like Adobe...
This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before.

Offline Smasher816

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9159 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 16:06:15 »
Well it is a good thing I now have a college .edu email :thumb:

Offline LONGZILLA

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9160 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 18:18:36 »
The wire/clip for a cherry stabilizer got loose from the mount and inserts. Is there a trick to getting the wire back into place for a plate mounted PCB?

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9161 on: Sun, 20 July 2014, 18:22:23 »
The wire/clip for a cherry stabilizer got loose from the mount and inserts. Is there a trick to getting the wire back into place for a plate mounted PCB?

You can try pushing it back in with a screwdriver, but be careful to not damage anything.

Offline sakai4eva

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9162 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 02:44:35 »
NVM my brother forwarded me a copy of Autocad. Apparently, working in as an engineer in a multinational gets him free copies, although he isn't telling me how exactly he got one :|

Well, it's off to learn how to use this befuddled software!

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9163 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 06:14:38 »
My brother forwarded me a copy of Autocad.

Well, it's off to learn how to use this befuddled software!

If you need help, PM me. I know a lot about CAD.


The wire/clip for a cherry stabilizer got loose from the mount and inserts. Is there a trick to getting the wire back into place for a plate mounted PCB?

For me a mix of pliers, small screwdrivers, and patience helped me reset the wire in my KMAC after I accidently loosened it.

Offline Vitaly

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9164 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 06:48:35 »
My brother forwarded me a copy of Autocad.

Well, it's off to learn how to use this befuddled software!

If you need help, PM me. I know a lot about CAD.
Can you post useful links here for those who start with CAD and diy keyboards and can you explain which job you do in Autocad and which in Inventor? I thought authocad work's well for 3d ?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9165 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 07:14:40 »
1) Can you post useful links here for those who start with CAD and diy keyboards

2) can you explain which job you do in Autocad and which in Inventor?

3) I thought authocad work's well for 3d ?

1) I don't think there's any info I can currently think of for an introduction to CAD. I know there are books about CAD that you can buy and use to help you. There might be some information online. All my help and advice is from my own professional experience. There is a few CAD threads on Geekhack and you can go into the Making Stuff Together subforum to get some info there.

2) AutoCAD = 2D, Inventor = 3D. I model everything in 3D CAD programs just because I'm used to doing that. If you're designing a keyboard, you don't necessarily need a 3D CAD program but I recommend it because a lot of people can't visualize things in 2D space. 3D models are easier to look at and interpret.

3) No. AutoCAD is 2D AFAIK. The newer AutoCAD packages may have 3D but I have only seen it used and only used it in a 2D capacity.

Offline Candyflip

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9166 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 13:53:40 »
AutoCAD is and always was 3D, I would recommend other 3D CAD software though

Edit: The difference between AutoCAD and Inventor is the interface and you can actually make movement animations in Inventor. For other software I would recommend SolidWorks or you can even try Maya.
« Last Edit: Mon, 21 July 2014, 13:58:02 by Candyflip »
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9167 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 13:57:01 »
AutoCAD is and always was 3D, I would recommend other 3D CAD software though

I've never used it in it's 3D capacity. I've always seen it used in industry as a 2D package and from a quick Google search, the rendering of the models looks poor. Maybe that's why I've never seen it in 3D.

Offline Kblavkalash

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9168 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 14:06:37 »
I am looking to buy o-rings for my cherry mx blue and red keyboards. There are two types available: thinner red 40A-L and thicker blue 40A-R. I am thinking about putting 40A-L on cherry mx reds, and 40A-R on cherry mx blues, what do you think? I am mainly interested to hear if someone tried 40A-R rings on blue switches, does it feel good? It seems like it should feel good, but not sure :D

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9169 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 14:18:49 »
I am looking to buy o-rings for my cherry mx blue and red keyboards. There are two types available: thinner red 40A-L and thicker blue 40A-R. I am thinking about putting 40A-L on cherry mx reds, and 40A-R on cherry mx blues, what do you think? I am mainly interested to hear if someone tried 40A-R rings on blue switches, does it feel good? It seems like it should feel good, but not sure :D

My personal experience with o-rings can be found in this thread. Additionally, here are some more reviews your might be interested in. I preferred the 40A-L o-rings overall as I felt the -R reduced travel too much.

Offline agodinhost

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9170 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 14:24:32 »
1) Can you post useful links here for those who start with CAD and diy keyboards

2) can you explain which job you do in Autocad and which in Inventor?

3) I thought authocad work's well for 3d ?

1) I don't think there's any info I can currently think of for an introduction to CAD. I know there are books about CAD that you can buy and use to help you. There might be some information online. All my help and advice is from my own professional experience. There is a few CAD threads on Geekhack and you can go into the Making Stuff Together subforum to get some info there.

2) AutoCAD = 2D, Inventor = 3D. I model everything in 3D CAD programs just because I'm used to doing that. If you're designing a keyboard, you don't necessarily need a 3D CAD program but I recommend it because a lot of people can't visualize things in 2D space. 3D models are easier to look at and interpret.

3) No. AutoCAD is 2D AFAIK. The newer AutoCAD packages may have 3D but I have only seen it used and only used it in a 2D capacity.
OpenSCad and FreeCad are good too (IMHO)
quite easy to learn ...
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Offline Kblavkalash

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9171 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 15:52:48 »
I am looking to buy o-rings for my cherry mx blue and red keyboards. There are two types available: thinner red 40A-L and thicker blue 40A-R. I am thinking about putting 40A-L on cherry mx reds, and 40A-R on cherry mx blues, what do you think? I am mainly interested to hear if someone tried 40A-R rings on blue switches, does it feel good? It seems like it should feel good, but not sure :D

My personal experience with o-rings can be found in this thread. Additionally, here are some more reviews your might be interested in. I preferred the 40A-L o-rings overall as I felt the -R reduced travel too much.

Yeah, I read those links, thanks. But still can't decide.. I have a feeling that those thicker o-rings will feel better for me, thinking about buying both sets, if I am lucky I can put one on each of keyboards.

P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.
« Last Edit: Mon, 21 July 2014, 15:56:29 by Kblavkalash »

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9172 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 20:21:36 »


P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.

I think Max Keyboards carries O rings.

Offline rowdy

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9173 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 20:44:05 »


P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.

I think Max Keyboards carries O rings.

http://www.maxkeyboard.com/cherry-mx-rubber-o-ring-dampeners-110pcs.html
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Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9174 on: Mon, 21 July 2014, 22:12:12 »


P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.

I think Max Keyboards carries O rings.

http://www.maxkeyboard.com/cherry-mx-rubber-o-ring-dampeners-110pcs.html

I hate when o-rings are advertised as "0.4mm reduction".  You didn't even specify which profile keycaps you are referencing.  How do I know what keycap profile Max Keyboards uses if I don't own one (or even if I do).  That just leads to confusion around o-rings because if its 0.4mm reduction on OEM keycaps, it is going to SUCK on Cherry caps.  If it is 0.4mm on Cherry caps, then it won't even be noticeable on OEM caps.

Its frustrating because so many people are confused about o-rings and this type of advertising isn't helping at all.  I should write a proper guide with links to all the different suppliers and compare what you get...

Offline Kblavkalash

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9175 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 01:59:14 »

I hate when o-rings are advertised as "0.4mm reduction".  You didn't even specify which profile keycaps you are referencing.  How do I know what keycap profile Max Keyboards uses if I don't own one (or even if I do).  That just leads to confusion around o-rings because if its 0.4mm reduction on OEM keycaps, it is going to SUCK on Cherry caps.  If it is 0.4mm on Cherry caps, then it won't even be noticeable on OEM caps.

Its frustrating because so many people are confused about o-rings and this type of advertising isn't helping at all.  I should write a proper guide with links to all the different suppliers and compare what you get...

Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9176 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 05:09:28 »


Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

Well if I'm not mistaken, swill is saying that the keycaps will influence how your O-rings feel. So perhaps you can let us know what keycaps you plan on using because he's got a good point.


Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9177 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:42:52 »

I hate when o-rings are advertised as "0.4mm reduction".  You didn't even specify which profile keycaps you are referencing.  How do I know what keycap profile Max Keyboards uses if I don't own one (or even if I do).  That just leads to confusion around o-rings because if its 0.4mm reduction on OEM keycaps, it is going to SUCK on Cherry caps.  If it is 0.4mm on Cherry caps, then it won't even be noticeable on OEM caps.

Its frustrating because so many people are confused about o-rings and this type of advertising isn't helping at all.  I should write a proper guide with links to all the different suppliers and compare what you get...

Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

I will have to check what the difference is.

Do you have links to the two options you are considering?
« Last Edit: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:46:27 by swill »

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9178 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:44:28 »


Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

Well if I'm not mistaken, swill is saying that the keycaps will influence how your O-rings feel. So perhaps you can let us know what keycaps you plan on using because he's got a good point.

Yes. Keycaps matter. MX switch types don't.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9179 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:45:10 »
Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

I will have to check what the difference is.


They're different thicknesses. WASD shows that the 40A-R is 0.4mm thickness and 40A-L is 0.2mm thickness. Both have a Shore Durometer hardness of 40A.

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9180 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:56:25 »
Hey Swill, which o-rings (40A-L or 40A-R) would you advice for cherry mx red and cherry mx blue keyboards?

I will have to check what the difference is.


They're different thicknesses. WASD shows that the 40A-R is 0.4mm thickness and 40A-L is 0.2mm thickness. Both have a Shore Durometer hardness of 40A.

Another site that advertises reduction without specifying which cap profile is being used to test. Do you know if WASD sells OEM profile? It looks like it from the bottom of the cap, but I can't tell for sure.

Also, $18 for o-rings? Really?  With the keycap profile you are using I can probably find you a less expensive alternative.
« Last Edit: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:00:03 by swill »

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9181 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 06:58:04 »
Do you know if WASD sells OEM profile?

I'm fairly sure they sell OEM profile caps. It's been a while since I've seen WASD keycaps though.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9182 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:05:23 »

Also, $18 for o-rings?


There are loads of O-rings available on ebay and elsewhere for a third of that price, but you may not find precisely the thickness and hardness that is ideal for your keyboard.

Personally, I want the thinnest and softest I can find, but most "industrial" rings are harder and fatter.
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Offline EpicSNES

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9183 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:34:24 »
After a few days I've realized I really don't like the o-rings I've chosen for my board..... does someone know of an easy way to remove them?

Filco Tenkeyless mx blue

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9184 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:36:04 »
After a few days I've realized I really don't like the o-rings I've chosen for my board..... does someone know of an easy way to remove them?

Pull all the keycaps then use a pocket knife/screwdriver/pliers/fingers to take them out of the keycaps or off the stems. It's really easy. As easy as putting them on.

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9185 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:36:17 »
After a few days I've realized I really don't like the o-rings I've chosen for my board..... does someone know of an easy way to remove them?

You can easily remove them with your fingers. You could use a wire keycap puller as well, works pretty good.
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Offline Halverson

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9186 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:37:21 »

After a few days I've realized I really don't like the o-rings I've chosen for my board..... does someone know of an easy way to remove them?

You're screwed. Just burn the keyboard and move on.

Offline EpicSNES

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9187 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:39:53 »
Pull all the keycaps then use a pocket knife/screwdriver/pliers/fingers to take them out of the keycaps or off the stems. It's really easy. As easy as putting them on.

You can easily remove them with your fingers. You could use a wire keycap puller as well, works pretty good.

Yeah I felt really dumb asking. For me the o-rings were actually difficult to put on, I don't have thin fingers so I can't just pull them out. I'll use my keycap puller. Plus they're PBT caps and I just don't want to damage the keycaps, even if it's the bottom.

Filco Tenkeyless mx blue

Offline Lpwl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9188 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 07:51:12 »

Yeah, I read those links, thanks. But still can't decide.. I have a feeling that those thicker o-rings will feel better for me, thinking about buying both sets, if I am lucky I can put one on each of keyboards.

P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.

If you are looking for thicker (but still soft) O-rings, you should take a look at my thread : [IC] Soft O-rings (40A)

I'm really happy with those "fat" O-rings (Cherry MX Clear switches // WASD OEM profile keycaps). If they were more people interested, this could be cheaper to produce.

By the way, I could send you some I have left (~10).


EDIT : I'm using a curved tweezer to remove my o-rings, it's really easy this way :

« Last Edit: Tue, 22 July 2014, 08:02:05 by Lpwl »

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9189 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 08:49:02 »

Yeah, I read those links, thanks. But still can't decide.. I have a feeling that those thicker o-rings will feel better for me, thinking about buying both sets, if I am lucky I can put one on each of keyboards.

P.s. are there any specialized shops which sell similar sized o-rings? Because I don't feel like paying 15 euros for pack of rings, which are essentially free.

If you are looking for thicker (but still soft) O-rings, you should take a look at my thread : [IC] Soft O-rings (40A)

I'm really happy with those "fat" O-rings (Cherry MX Clear switches // WASD OEM profile keycaps). If they were more people interested, this could be cheaper to produce.

By the way, I could send you some I have left (~10).


EDIT : I'm using a curved tweezer to remove my o-rings, it's really easy this way :

Show Image


Have you tested 2.5mm o-rings on any keycaps? According to my calculations you will start to have issues with switch actuation on OEM beyond something like 2.3mm.

Offline Lpwl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9190 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 09:01:44 »
Have you tested 2.5mm o-rings on any keycaps? According to my calculations you will start to have issues with switch actuation on OEM beyond something like 2.3mm.

I'm using them for several months without any problem (gaming / coding / etc) on MX Clear switches.

WhireFireDragon also tried these "fat" O-rings and many geekhackers bought them from a group by (pack E & G) 2 years ago :

Quote from: WhireFireDragon
the largest "fat" O-rings (pack E or G) is the max thickness you can get without interfering with the actuation point. On my MX blues, they bottom out just after the actuation click. i have tested may times and they never bottom out before the actuation point under any circumstance.

I could send you some too Swill if you wish.
« Last Edit: Tue, 22 July 2014, 09:13:20 by Lpwl »

Offline swill

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9191 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 10:01:23 »
Have you tested 2.5mm o-rings on any keycaps? According to my calculations you will start to have issues with switch actuation on OEM beyond something like 2.3mm.

I'm using them for several months without any problem (gaming / coding / etc) on MX Clear switches.

WhireFireDragon also tried these "fat" O-rings and many geekhackers bought them from a group by (pack E & G) 2 years ago :

Quote from: WhireFireDragon
the largest "fat" O-rings (pack E or G) is the max thickness you can get without interfering with the actuation point. On my MX blues, they bottom out just after the actuation click. i have tested may times and they never bottom out before the actuation point under any circumstance.

I could send you some too Swill if you wish.

If you could send me 2 or 3, I will include them in my upcoming guide. I will pay for shipping.  I have asked in the 'free stuff' thread for people to send me o-rings if they have a link to where they got them so I can do a comprehensive guide with measurements and such.

My guess is that they may be called 2.5mm but a measurement of the o-ring will probably show a slightly different size.

Offline Lpwl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9192 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 11:39:46 »
Have you tested 2.5mm o-rings on any keycaps? According to my calculations you will start to have issues with switch actuation on OEM beyond something like 2.3mm.

I'm using them for several months without any problem (gaming / coding / etc) on MX Clear switches.

WhireFireDragon also tried these "fat" O-rings and many geekhackers bought them from a group by (pack E & G) 2 years ago :

Quote from: WhireFireDragon
the largest "fat" O-rings (pack E or G) is the max thickness you can get without interfering with the actuation point. On my MX blues, they bottom out just after the actuation click. i have tested may times and they never bottom out before the actuation point under any circumstance.

I could send you some too Swill if you wish.

If you could send me 2 or 3, I will include them in my upcoming guide. I will pay for shipping.  I have asked in the 'free stuff' thread for people to send me o-rings if they have a link to where they got them so I can do a comprehensive guide with measurements and such.

My guess is that they may be called 2.5mm but a measurement of the o-ring will probably show a slightly different size.

Ok cool !

You can PM me with your details  ;)

Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9193 on: Tue, 22 July 2014, 20:08:04 »
Anyone know how the HHKB logo is printed onto the HHKB Pro 1? Laser? Dyesub?
« Last Edit: Tue, 22 July 2014, 20:10:22 by Photekq »
https://kbdarchive.org/
github
discord: hi mum#5710

Offline skuko

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9194 on: Wed, 23 July 2014, 07:16:28 »
since i didn't find any relevant forum for this, i will just ask here:

what is your experience with originative please? (if any)

i have ordered a GMK orange on charcoal from them on the 17th July (i think) and received a "shipping" mail from them on the 18th, but USPS only states that they received electronic shipping info and it does not necessarily mean that the item was indeed shipped. i have requested more info on this from originative, but only received a generic reply with the same tracking number that i already had.

i'm starting to doubt that they even have it in stock, even though it was not marked as sold out. i have ordered it assuming that the wares would be readily available.

just wanted to ask about their practices (should probably have done so before ordering), because something stinks here. i will not hesitate with a chargeback if i don't receive a satisfying answer from them within a reasonable timeframe.

Offline jorgenslee

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9195 on: Wed, 23 July 2014, 07:22:35 »
since i didn't find any relevant forum for this, i will just ask here:

what is your experience with originative please? (if any)

i have ordered a GMK orange on charcoal from them on the 17th July (i think) and received a "shipping" mail from them on the 18th, but USPS only states that they received electronic shipping info and it does not necessarily mean that the item was indeed shipped. i have requested more info on this from originative, but only received a generic reply with the same tracking number that i already had.

i'm starting to doubt that they even have it in stock, even though it was not marked as sold out. i have ordered it assuming that the wares would be readily available.

just wanted to ask about their practices (should probably have done so before ordering), because something stinks here. i will not hesitate with a chargeback if i don't receive a satisfying answer from them within a reasonable timeframe.

Originative Vendor Review, http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57652.0

Offline BlueBär

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9196 on: Wed, 23 July 2014, 07:28:14 »
just wanted to ask about their practices (should probably have done so before ordering), because something stinks here. i will not hesitate with a chargeback if i don't receive a satisfying answer from them within a reasonable timeframe.

Check the link jorgenslee posted: Originative is known for that, stuff simply not getting sent out happend often enough and is still happening. You can try sending Originative an email threatening chargeback, if that doesn't work don't be afraid of doing it, better safe than sorry. Be aware that there is only a certain timeframe in which you can get your money back easily (it depends on your payment method afaik).

Offline skuko

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9197 on: Wed, 23 July 2014, 07:29:03 »
yeah just read the thread...now i'm wondering if i should file a chargeback right now, or wait.


Offline intelli78

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #9199 on: Wed, 23 July 2014, 09:19:31 »
Anyone know how the HHKB logo is printed onto the HHKB Pro 1? Laser? Dyesub?

Can't answer authoritatively but you can at least rule out dyesub, 'cause that would melt the ABS case.

On my HHKB 2s, the logo is pretty solidly filled yet has no texture. If I had to guess I'd say some kind of printing, since I think lasering almost always changes the texture. But I'm just guessing, and its possible the Pro 1 was different.
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