Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[pr0ximity]

Should I have any concerns putting dampening material between the PCB and plate of an MX or Alps keyboard? Only thing that really came to mind (aside from getting it in there) was heat dissipation from the components, am I just naive? Just a bunch of resistors on there for the most part, it's a single-layer PCB with the traces on the other side.

[hwood34]

Should I have any concerns putting dampening material between the PCB and plate of an MX or Alps keyboard? Only thing that really came to mind (aside from getting it in there) was heat dissipation from the components, am I just naive? Just a bunch of resistors on there for the most part, it's a single-layer PCB with the traces on the other side.

I haven't ever heard of anyone having those sorts of problems using shelf-liner or something similar. You should be fine

[xondat]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

[user 18]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

Should be somewhere in this ballpark:

blue/red/brown: 60cN
black/green: 75cN
clear: 80cN

(haven't measured, these are educated guesses)

[hwood34]

does anyone have pics of the final lynn hangul cap sets?

[xondat]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

Should be somewhere in this ballpark:

blue/red/brown: 60cN
black/green: 75cN
clear: 80cN

(haven't measured, these are educated guesses)

**** I bought some 62g springs thinking they'd be a bit harder than browns... fml I need 67g I guess, brown waaaaay too light and clears are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too heavy.

[SpAmRaY]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

Should be somewhere in this ballpark:

blue/red/brown: 60cN
black/green: 75cN
clear: 80cN

(haven't measured, these are educated guesses)

**** I bought some 62g springs thinking they'd be a bit harder than browns... fml I need 67g I guess, brown waaaaay too light and clears are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too heavy.

But with clears you don't have to bottom out, so they aren't that heavy.

[xondat]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

Should be somewhere in this ballpark:

blue/red/brown: 60cN
black/green: 75cN
clear: 80cN

(haven't measured, these are educated guesses)

**** I bought some 62g springs thinking they'd be a bit harder than browns... fml I need 67g I guess, brown waaaaay too light and clears are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too heavy.

But with clears you don't have to bottom out, so they aren't that heavy.

Yeah, still getting used to that but I like to travel a bit after the actuation on each key press. Looking at graphs it makes me think 67g might be my jam.

[Blaise170]

Actuation of browns is 45cN and Clears are around 90cN at bottom out.

[Melvang]

Bottom out forces of all MX switches?

Should be somewhere in this ballpark:

blue/red/brown: 60cN
black/green: 75cN
clear: 80cN

(haven't measured, these are educated guesses)

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46449.0

[Blaise170]

Can someone explain the shark avatars to me?

[jerue]

Can someone explain the shark avatars to me?

Read the Church of Halverson thread

gimme a moment and I'll find the specific thing

edit: I think he ran something in the keycap subforum, not sure. but ok

[piemancoder]

Can someone explain the shark avatars to me?

Read the Church of Halverson thread

gimme a moment and I'll find the specific thing

edit: I think he ran something in the keycap subforum, not sure. but ok

This was also a reason: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77964.0;topicseen

[jerue]

This was also a reason: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77964.0;topicseen

That was the thread I was looking for, thanks for that 

[Solo]

Where were the FMJ Aluminum Poker cases manufactured?

[n__dles]

What size screws does a Poker II case use? I tried M2 6mm, and it's too long.

[xondat]

What size screws does a Poker II case use? I tried M2 6mm, and it's too long.

IIRC Pokers use 4mm.

[tofgerl]

I've used 10 no problem on pok3r, but never tried 2.

[jerue]

What size screws does a Poker II case use? I tried M2 6mm, and it's too long.

IIRC Pokers use 4mm.

yup

these are the ones you need: http://www.mcmaster.com/#92000a011/=10jdcxb

[JSaintS]

I know, it's a shame but, I use a mac and I like it ^^'
Anyway, I know I could use any windows keyboard and remap the keys to get it working, but I would like to know if there were some "native" mechanical keyboard for macs


thanks a lot!

[piemancoder]

This was also a reason: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=77964.0;topicseen

That was the thread I was looking for, thanks for that 

No problem 

[Blaise170]

I know, it's a shame but, I use a mac and I like it ^^'
Anyway, I know I could use any windows keyboard and remap the keys to get it working, but I would like to know if there were some "native" mechanical keyboard for macs


thanks a lot!

Matias and Razer sell modern Mac compatibles and you can use any Apple mechanical with a converter like the iMate.

[piemancoder]

I know, it's a shame but, I use a mac and I like it ^^'
Anyway, I know I could use any windows keyboard and remap the keys to get it working, but I would like to know if there were some "native" mechanical keyboard for macs


thanks a lot!

Das makes some Mac compatible keyboards. Or, you could build a custom 

[davkol]

A couple of quick questions about MX clones:

• Is there any incentive to get Gaote, Greetech or other clone switches instead of Gateron? (I'm looking for smooth non-clicky switches, tactile or linear. Higher actuation point would be nice.)
• Are Zealio switches higher quality, or just custom weight (or stem)? (I don't care about backlight.)
• Are there any active group buys for these switches? If not, any idea, when gaterons will be back on Massdrop? I'm looking for options, that are cheaper than 120 gaterons for £33 shipped from Amazon.co.uk. MechanicalKeyboards.com have gaterons for $0.3/switch, but I'd have to find a shipping proxy to avoid their default $85 option.

[hwood34]

Is there any incentive to get Gaote, Greetech or other clone switches instead of Gateron? (I'm looking for smooth non-clicky switches, tactile or linear. Higher actuation point would be nice.)

Nope

Are Zealio switches higher quality, or just custom weight (or stem)? (I don't care about backlight.)

Just custom spring and totally trans housing

Are there any active group buys for these switches? If not, any idea, when gaterons will be back on Massdrop? I'm looking for options, that are cheaper than 120 gaterons for £33 shipped from Amazon.co.uk. MechanicalKeyboards.com have gaterons for $0.3/switch, but I'd have to find a shipping proxy to avoid their default $85 option.

No active GBs and I'm not sure if they'll be back on Massdrop since they've already run it probably 15 times.

[xondat]

How do I assemble these? Video preferable. Treat me like I'm 5.

[azhdar]

How do I assemble these? Video preferable. Treat me like I'm 5.

[jerue]

I know, it's a shame but, I use a mac and I like it ^^'
Anyway, I know I could use any windows keyboard and remap the keys to get it working, but I would like to know if there were some "native" mechanical keyboard for macs


thanks a lot!

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63028.0

[mashby]

I know, it's a shame but, I use a mac and I like it ^^'
Anyway, I know I could use any windows keyboard and remap the keys to get it working, but I would like to know if there were some "native" mechanical keyboard for macs


thanks a lot!

As a Mac user, I haven't had any problems using any modern keyboard.

The only change I make is in System Preferences\Keyboards\Modifier Keys to swap the Option Key with the Command Key to match the Mac layout. Physically swap those two keys on the keyboard and I'm good to go.

The only part that kinda sucks is that you'll have a "Windows" key on your keyboard, but that's what custom key cap sets are for. 

[tofgerl]

If you connect to a laptop you'll be without a proper fn-key for the native mac mediakeys and stuff as well.

[mashby]

If you connect to a laptop you'll be without a proper fn-key for the native mac mediakeys and stuff as well.

Good point. I forgot about that.

If you use the Function Row AND the media keys, then you'll need to use a specific keyboard. Personally, I don't use the function row, so I set the function row to be the media keys by default.

[Connly33]

I was wondering a couple things about Cherry stabilizers. I got some PCB mount Cherry stabs for my new build and i'm going to lube them when i put it together.

But i have seen a few people clip the feet from the bottom of the stabs that hit the PCB when they bottom out so that the switch bottoms out instead.
 But i looks like those tabs are what keeps the stem from being pulled out of the stabilizer when you remove a keycap.

I was wondering if anyone has experience clipping them and if the stem being pulled out is an issue. 

[Melvang]

I was wondering a couple things about Cherry stabilizers. I got some PCB mount Cherry stabs for my new build and i'm going to lube them when i put it together.

But i have seen a few people clip the feet from the bottom of the stabs that hit the PCB when they bottom out so that the switch bottoms out instead.
 But i looks like those tabs are what keeps the stem from being pulled out of the stabilizer when you remove a keycap.

I was wondering if anyone has experience clipping them and if the stem being pulled out is an issue.

Not an issue clip away.  For the record, there have been cherry stabs that didn't have those feet from the factory.  Both pcb and plate mount can be clipped with no adverse effects.

[Connly33]

I was wondering a couple things about Cherry stabilizers. I got some PCB mount Cherry stabs for my new build and i'm going to lube them when i put it together.

But i have seen a few people clip the feet from the bottom of the stabs that hit the PCB when they bottom out so that the switch bottoms out instead.
 But i looks like those tabs are what keeps the stem from being pulled out of the stabilizer when you remove a keycap.

I was wondering if anyone has experience clipping them and if the stem being pulled out is an issue.

Not an issue clip away.  For the record, there have been cherry stabs that didn't have those feet from the factory.  Both pcb and plate mount can be clipped with no adverse effects.

Thank's :p. Definitely going to clip them then.

[xondat]

I only have one set of stabs, why should I clip them? I know it's preference but I'd rather know the advantages and disadvantages

[ideus]

I only have one set of stabs, why should I clip them? I know it's preference but I'd rather know the advantages and disadvantages

Cherry stabs tend to feel mushy due to those extra small legs pairs, if you clip them the feeling of the stabilized keys will be more close to non stabilized keys. That is the advantage, and the mod does not have any disadvantage known; however, if you are not aware of that feeling it may not worth for you to make the mod. In my experience that was the only thing that prevented me to enjoy my first non ALPS board, some years ago, as you know, an ALPS keyboard comes with Costar stabilizers that are designed with smaller gauge wire and with inserts that go directly into the keycaps, that design makes the stabilized caps as if they were normal keys, that is a great feeling, all the keyboard feels the same with no mushy keys, you will get a similar final effect with clipped Cherry stabilizers. It is up to you.

[davkol]

…

Oh, well… thanks.

Gaterons were on Massdrop 2-3 months ago ($26 for 120 switches) or last month (some special version), so it might be possible to save a little bit. I just have to decide, if I hate Amazon, or Massdrop less.

[hwood34]

…

Oh, well… thanks.

Gaterons were on Massdrop 2-3 months ago ($26 for 120 switches) or last month (some special version), so it might be possible to save a little bit. I just have to decide, if I hate Amazon, or Massdrop less.

Actually, looking at the Massdrop page for the switches, 277 people have requested a drop again, so they could very well do another run soon

[jerue]

If I want silenced Realforces (the ones with purple sliders), am I just looking for boards with the -S affixed at the end? Like 91UKB-S, etc.

[Bromono]

If I want silenced Realforces (the ones with purple sliders), am I just looking for boards with the -S affixed at the end? Like 91UKB-S, etc.

for the most part.

I believe the only American board that was silenced was the anniversary board.

The rest I found where Japanese boards.

I ended up buying a cheap used one from amazon.jp and had evo_spec proxy it for me.

[jerue]

If I want silenced Realforces (the ones with purple sliders), am I just looking for boards with the -S affixed at the end? Like 91UKB-S, etc.

for the most part.

I believe the only American board that was silenced was the anniversary board.

The rest I found where Japanese boards.

I ended up buying a cheap used one from amazon.jp and had evo_spec proxy it for me.

Gotcha. Thanks! I would mostly just harvest the sliders and replace them with stock sliders so I don't think JIS is too much of an issue. I want to join the purple slider club someday )

[ajx]

Anyone has a picture of HHKB PCB in real size?
Thanks

[tofgerl]

Pictures on the internet don't have "real size". They scale according to your monitor, the resolution you use and the application you view it with.

[xondat]

What thickness should each piece be if I am making a sandwich style case?

[Solo]

Gotcha. Thanks! I would mostly just harvest the sliders and replace them with stock sliders so I don't think JIS is too much of an issue. I want to join the purple slider club someday )

There's a 91UBK-S on eBay right now if you don't mind spending 280 bones lol.

Link

[user 18]

What thickness should each piece be if I am making a sandwich style case?

They can be as thin or as thick as you like!

The only true restrictions are:
1) If you want the plate to be one of the sandwich layers, that layer needs to be proper plate thickness (1/16", iirc)
2) The total room inside the case needs to be enough for what you want to put inside it (obviously).

A basic sandwich case only has three layers -- one for the plate, one for a "spacer" layer of whatever thickness you want (within reason), and one for a bottom layer. You can split up your spacer layer into multiple thinner layers for the same overall thickness, or you can add multiple spacer layers to make a thick keyboard. You can also add a layer or layers above the plate, forming a raised bezel.

[ideus]

What thickness should each piece be if I am making a sandwich style case?

They can be as thin or as thick as you like!

The only true restrictions are:
1) If you want the plate to be one of the sandwich layers, that layer needs to be proper plate thickness (1/16", iirc)
2) The total room inside the case needs to be enough for what you want to put inside it (obviously).

A basic sandwich case only has three layers -- one for the plate, one for a "spacer" layer of whatever thickness you want (within reason), and one for a bottom layer. You can split up your spacer layer into multiple thinner layers for the same overall thickness, or you can add multiple spacer layers to make a thick keyboard. You can also add a layer or layers above the plate, forming a raised bezel.

If you can wait, I can give you the exact thickness of each of the layers of my GON layered acrylic case.

[xondat]

What thickness should each piece be if I am making a sandwich style case?

They can be as thin or as thick as you like!

The only true restrictions are:
1) If you want the plate to be one of the sandwich layers, that layer needs to be proper plate thickness (1/16", iirc)
2) The total room inside the case needs to be enough for what you want to put inside it (obviously).

A basic sandwich case only has three layers -- one for the plate, one for a "spacer" layer of whatever thickness you want (within reason), and one for a bottom layer. You can split up your spacer layer into multiple thinner layers for the same overall thickness, or you can add multiple spacer layers to make a thick keyboard. You can also add a layer or layers above the plate, forming a raised bezel.

If you can wait, I can give you the exact thickness of each of the layers of my GON layered acrylic case.

That would be wonderful if you could do that! The style I have is 4 parts, top and bottom would be 2/3mm (?) but the other two I'm not sure what heights I'd need.

Thanks for the help guys

[ideus]

What thickness should each piece be if I am making a sandwich style case?

They can be as thin or as thick as you like!

The only true restrictions are:
1) If you want the plate to be one of the sandwich layers, that layer needs to be proper plate thickness (1/16", iirc)
2) The total room inside the case needs to be enough for what you want to put inside it (obviously).

A basic sandwich case only has three layers -- one for the plate, one for a "spacer" layer of whatever thickness you want (within reason), and one for a bottom layer. You can split up your spacer layer into multiple thinner layers for the same overall thickness, or you can add multiple spacer layers to make a thick keyboard. You can also add a layer or layers above the plate, forming a raised bezel.

If you can wait, I can give you the exact thickness of each of the layers of my GON layered acrylic case.

That would be wonderful if you could do that! The style I have is 4 parts, top and bottom would be 2/3mm (?) but the other two I'm not sure what heights I'd need.

Thanks for the help guys

OK, I'll take my caliper with me to the office, tomorrow, to get those measurements for you. I'll post them here then.

[jerue]

Gotcha. Thanks! I would mostly just harvest the sliders and replace them with stock sliders so I don't think JIS is too much of an issue. I want to join the purple slider club someday )

There's a 91UBK-S on eBay right now if you don't mind spending 280 bones lol.

Link

Yeesh. That is crazy. I'd rather just proxy it; so much cheaper on Yahoo Auctions JP