So I want to build a keyboard..

[Icte]

.. but you guys are so awesome and keyboard smart that I need to ask some tips from you!

First of all, it's going to be a small form factor one (60-65% ish). I'll be using MX Black switches (maybe vintage ones if I find some) and it's going to be plate-mounted. It'll also use PBT key caps. This is what I've decided so far!

Anyway, to the questions:

1. I'll be using an ISO layout with arrow keys and maybe some extra keys to the right of the Enter column. For this to work I need to be able to make a scheme of the keyboard, either by hand or by using a software (which will include exact measurments like space between keys etc). Is there any good recommended software/websites to design your own layout?

2. I've seen some people making their own keyboards but they use direct wiring instead of mounting the switches on a PCB. Is it better to have the switches mounted on a PCB rather than wiring if you're going to be using a plate anyway? Does direct wiring between the switches feel "cheaper" (like make rattling noises in the keyboard while typing etc)?

3. Aluminium vs steel for the case? What thickness do you recommend if I'll be adding rubber feet?

4. Which stabilizers do you recommend for MX Black plate-mounted switches?

5. Some keyboards utilize different switches for the spacebar. Is it recommended to use a different one? If yes, which one?

k thx bai

[tp4tissue]

ergodox..

[Icte]

ergodox..

I don't like it :O

[MJ45]

Sounds like a GH-60 ISO would be ideal for you but the group buy is over, but you may be able to get one. All lot of people ordered several, check the classifieds when they start to ship.

[Icte]

Sounds like a GH-60 ISO would be ideal for you but the group buy is over, but you may be able to get one. All lot of people ordered several, check the classifieds when they start to ship.

Lmao actually the GH60 isn't enough for me It lacks arrow keys for instance!

To clarify - I want to build a keyboard FROM SCRACTH. No existing PCB's or anything! Please stick to answering ze questions I had and I'll be very happy! 

[Moosecraft]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

[Icte]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

[Moosecraft]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

I wish I knew, and on this project I could actually help you unlike your custom topre board.

[Icte]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

I wish I knew, and on this project I could actually help you unlike your custom topre board.

Lmao I actually dropped the idea (for now) since I do love MX Black switches (and vintage ones even more!) And thanks for the help!

[Findecanor]

Is there any good recommended software/websites to design your own layout?
...

2D CAD: QCad
Circuit board design: KiCad.
Then copy and paste from existing keyboard designs that are open source.

bpiphany wrote a thread a year or two ago about how he designed his custom keyboards. There is a lot more detailed info in that one, if the thread has not been deleted for some reason.

You should be able to find much more info in the "Making stuff together" forum.

Is it better to have the switches mounted on a PCB rather than wiring if you're going to be using a plate
anyway?

If you use direct wiring and intend to be able to swap keycaps some day, then they can't just be snapped to a plate or you risk pulling the entire switch from the plate when you had intended to pull just a keycap.
You must either have a PCB or glue the switch bottoms to the plate, decide to keep the same keycaps indefinitely, or be very very careful when you swap keycaps.
Some keycaps and switch combinations are more tight than others.

4. Which stabilizers do you recommend for MX Black plate-mounted switches?
5. Some keyboards utilize different switches for the spacebar. Is it recommended to use a different one? If yes, which one?

Those are questions of preference.

For the Space Bar, it is usually a heavier switch that otherwise has the same characteristics. MX Brown -> MX Clear, MX Black -> MX Dark Grey, MX Blue -> MX Green, MX Clear -> MX Grey.

[Findecanor]

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

No, but maybe someone on SweClockers might know. You could ask in Modifikationer och egna konstruktioner. You would not be the first person there to want to build things out of aluminium.

If you do use a PCB, then an acrylic plate would suffice. That can be ordered from Polulu.com or Ponoko.com and from many other places and for much less money. There is also a laser-cutter that can cut acrylic (but not metal unfortunately) at Stockholm Makerspace.

However... If all you want is an ordinary keyboard with a few extra keys to the right of the main cluster, then you could (do what I am doing) and take a Phantom plate (tenkeyless DIY keyboard) and cut off the parts that you don't want.

[Moosecraft]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

I wish I knew, and on this project I could actually help you unlike your custom topre board.

Lmao I actually dropped the idea (for now) since I do love MX Black switches (and vintage ones even more!) And thanks for the help!

Standard blacks are a bit to heavy for me during longer than 30 minute sessions, but I like linear switches around red spring weight.

[Icte]

Is there any good recommended software/websites to design your own layout?
...

2D CAD: QCad
Circuit board design: KiCad.
Then copy and paste from existing keyboard designs that are open source.

bpiphany wrote a thread a year or two ago about how he designed his custom keyboards. There is a lot more detailed info in that one, if the thread has not been deleted for some reason.

You should be able to find much more info in the "Making stuff together" forum.

Is it better to have the switches mounted on a PCB rather than wiring if you're going to be using a plate
anyway?

If you use direct wiring and intend to be able to swap keycaps some day, then they can't just be snapped to a plate or you risk pulling the entire switch from the plate when you had intended to pull just a keycap.
You must either have a PCB or glue the switch bottoms to the plate, decide to keep the same keycaps indefinitely, or be very very careful when you swap keycaps.
Some keycaps and switch combinations are more tight than others.

4. Which stabilizers do you recommend for MX Black plate-mounted switches?
5. Some keyboards utilize different switches for the spacebar. Is it recommended to use a different one? If yes, which one?

Those are questions of preference.

For the Space Bar, it is usually a heavier switch that otherwise has the same characteristics. MX Brown -> MX Clear, MX Black -> MX Dark Grey, MX Blue -> MX Green, MX Clear -> MX Grey.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

No, but maybe someone on SweClockers might know. You could ask in Modifikationer och egna konstruktioner. You would not be the first person there to want to build things out of aluminium.

If you do use a PCB, then an acrylic plate would suffice. That can be ordered from Polulu.com or Ponoko.com and from many other places and for much less money. There is also a laser-cutter that can cut acrylic (but not metal unfortunately) at Stockholm Makerspace.

However... If all you want is an ordinary keyboard with a few extra keys to the right of the main cluster, then you could (do what I am doing) and take a Phantom plate (tenkeyless DIY keyboard) and cut off the parts that you don't want.

Woah that's some stuff I never thought about! Many thanks, I'll sure be looking into it!

I actually really want aluminium Seems more durable than acrylic imo.. Or maybe steel too if its cheaper? I can avoid shorting the circuits using isolation?

[Icte]

Well I think that using a pcb would  be better than hardwiring, but I'm not and expert in making keyboards so I'm not really sure what the difference is.

I personally prefer clipped cherry stabilizers.

As for the case I think aluminum would be a better choice since you can anodize it.

I have never used a heavier switch for the spacebar but I think it would be niec to have since you would have better control over it.

Hm never thought about anodizing but aluminium it shall be! Know any place where you can get laser-cut aluminium pieces for a decent price in Stockholm?

I wish I knew, and on this project I could actually help you unlike your custom topre board.

Lmao I actually dropped the idea (for now) since I do love MX Black switches (and vintage ones even more!) And thanks for the help!

Standard blacks are a bit to heavy for me during longer than 30 minute sessions, but I like linear switches around red spring weight.

I can't stand red, they're so soft! Too soft!

[Moosecraft]

Smooth and light man!!

[Icte]

Smooth and light man!!

Wobbly and squishy my friend!

[terran5992]

CLEARS!!

[Moosecraft]

CLEARS!!

Ergo clears are probably my favorite tbh

[Icte]

Oh my keyboard cable.. Stay on topic!

Now.. Moarr tips?? Where to cut metal???

[Icte]

Actually, I do got one more question!

When it comes to dimensions of the plate (holes etc.) and the case, where do you start?? How will you know exactly how big each hole etc should be?

[PepperPanda]

MOZ set up a thread that contains most of GH cad drawings, http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744.0. You should be able to make your own plate layout with that.