Author Topic: PC sound upgrading with standalone subwoofer + speakers-Audiophiles input needed  (Read 16341 times)

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Offline bazemk1979

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I have been having Logitech z2300 for some time now, probably for the past 6 years if I'm correct. First pair the speakers started to make crackling noise, was under time frame of warranty so they sent me another one, that one had same problem so I end up buying another set because in all honesty I was happy with the set up. Here I'm 2-3 years later and one of the speakers started having the same issues... If I stand correct that's usually a problem of the satellites detaching from the base and probably I will need to reset them and glue them back, either is that or wiring needs to be de solder and solder back, I don't know what's the issue but probably is the first one I mentioned.

 I could make my life 100 times easier and just get z623 or the sp2500 2.1 setups and call it a day and not having to deal with anything extra, just plug,play and enjoy.... but I would like to try something different, and I'm not that experienced when comes to converting regular subwoofer and speakers to PC, its easy if you have to hook them up with whatever receiver is popular today with the home entertainment.

 So what I would like to do is probably have similar setup like the z2300 but stand alone and hopefully I have less problems with longevity of the stand alone subwoofer and speakers since I would guess they should be little more durable perhaps?

 Anyways I understand that this an audiophile site and people will jump into recommending some setup $1000 or more, thanks but I'm not interested in that, I was pretty happy with the z2300 but I don't mind paying little bit more for better quality longevity wise and sound experience wise. So I did some research and mainly I'm looking into the price range of Pioneers,JBL,Polk etc etc etc. They all have decent reviews and it all came to matter of looks, in my taste JBL look most attractive, I'm sure here on this site people would debate that LOL.


 Ok here is what I have in mind of buying and if someone has a better recommendation for a brand that has better reputation quality wise, then please chime in.

 Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011

 Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8

 Amplifier2.1 channel:  http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA...60_SR160%2C160_  ( the Amp is rated 40W per channel for the speakers while the speakers are rated both at 125W, the subwoofer channel is rated 68W and while the subwoofer itself is rated at 300W) - not sure if this matters but I wrote it here in case if people are lazy to read the links descriptions I provided for the peripherals.

 I don't know if this matters but this is the sound card I have in my PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003( the sound card on the back has 5.1 channel inputs + some usb connections I guess not sure if that helps with the setup I want to go or if it matter at all.... like I said above I have only used the typical PC 2.1 plug and play setup) 

So please any input is appreciated specially regarding the Amplifier 2.1, the speakers, the subwoofer.... etc etc etc
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 11:48:17 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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I have been having Logitech z2300 for some time now, probably for the past 6 years if I'm correct. First pair the speakers started to make crackling noise, was under time frame of warranty so they sent me another one, that one had same problem so I end up buying another set because in all honesty I was happy with the set up. Here I'm 2-3 years later and one of the speakers started having the same issues... If I stand correct that's usually a problem of the satellites detaching from the base and probably I will need to reset them and glue them back, either is that or wiring needs to be de solder and solder back, I don't know what's the issue but probably is the first one I mentioned.

 I could make my life 100 times easier and just get z623 or the sp2500 2.1 setups and call it a day and not having to deal with anything extra, just plug,play and enjoy.... but I would like to try something different, and I'm not that experienced when comes to converting regular subwoofer and speakers to PC, its easy if you have to hook them up with whatever receiver is popular today with the home entertainment.

 So what I would like to do is probably have similar setup like the z2300 but stand alone and hopefully I have less problems with longevity of the stand alone subwoofer and speakers since I would guess they should be little more durable perhaps?

 Anyways I understand that this an audiophile site and people will jump into recommending some setup $1000 or more, thanks but I'm not interested in that, I was pretty happy with the z2300 but I don't mind paying little bit more for better quality longevity wise and sound experience wise. So I did some research and mainly I'm looking into the price range of Pioneers,JBL,Polk etc etc etc. They all have decent reviews and it all came to matter of looks, in my taste JBL look most attractive, I'm sure here on this site people would debate that LOL.


 Ok here is what I have in mind of buying and if someone has a better recommendation for a brand that has better reputation quality wise, then please chime in.

 Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011

 Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8

 Amplifier2.1 channel:  http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA...60_SR160%2C160_  ( the Amp is rated 40W per channel for the speakers while the speakers are rated both at 125W, the subwoofer channel is rated 68W and while the subwoofer itself is rated at 300W) - not sure if this matters but I wrote it here in case if people are lazy to read the links descriptions I provided for the peripherals.

 I don't know if this matters but this is the sound card I have in my PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003( the sound card on the back has 5.1 channel inputs + some usb connections I guess not sure if that helps with the setup I want to go or if it matter at all.... like I said above I have only used the typical PC 2.1 plug and play setup) 

So please any input is appreciated specially regarding the Amplifier 2.1, the speakers, the subwoofer.... etc etc etc

Have you ever heard of BIC Venturi speakers?  Something like the BICDV62SIB bookshelf speakers?
They are excellent monitors and you can get the V1020 (10") or V1220 (12") powered subwoofer.
As far as an amplifier is concerned, you might want to look into a good one.  Perhaps looking into a nice Yamaha amplifier or reciever (used or new) would do the trick.  It doesn't have to be too powerful, 40W-100W per channel is more than sufficient for that, because the subwoofer has it's own amplifier.
The JBL speakers are nice, but I am serious when I tell you the Venturis are the very best deal for the money.  Your ears won't be disappointed.
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 12:05:35 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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I have been having Logitech z2300 for some time now, probably for the past 6 years if I'm correct. First pair the speakers started to make crackling noise, was under time frame of warranty so they sent me another one, that one had same problem so I end up buying another set because in all honesty I was happy with the set up. Here I'm 2-3 years later and one of the speakers started having the same issues... If I stand correct that's usually a problem of the satellites detaching from the base and probably I will need to reset them and glue them back, either is that or wiring needs to be de solder and solder back, I don't know what's the issue but probably is the first one I mentioned.

 I could make my life 100 times easier and just get z623 or the sp2500 2.1 setups and call it a day and not having to deal with anything extra, just plug,play and enjoy.... but I would like to try something different, and I'm not that experienced when comes to converting regular subwoofer and speakers to PC, its easy if you have to hook them up with whatever receiver is popular today with the home entertainment.

 So what I would like to do is probably have similar setup like the z2300 but stand alone and hopefully I have less problems with longevity of the stand alone subwoofer and speakers since I would guess they should be little more durable perhaps?

 Anyways I understand that this an audiophile site and people will jump into recommending some setup $1000 or more, thanks but I'm not interested in that, I was pretty happy with the z2300 but I don't mind paying little bit more for better quality longevity wise and sound experience wise. So I did some research and mainly I'm looking into the price range of Pioneers,JBL,Polk etc etc etc. They all have decent reviews and it all came to matter of looks, in my taste JBL look most attractive, I'm sure here on this site people would debate that LOL.


 Ok here is what I have in mind of buying and if someone has a better recommendation for a brand that has better reputation quality wise, then please chime in.

 Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011

 Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8

 Amplifier2.1 channel:  http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA...60_SR160%2C160_  ( the Amp is rated 40W per channel for the speakers while the speakers are rated both at 125W, the subwoofer channel is rated 68W and while the subwoofer itself is rated at 300W) - not sure if this matters but I wrote it here in case if people are lazy to read the links descriptions I provided for the peripherals.

 I don't know if this matters but this is the sound card I have in my PC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271003( the sound card on the back has 5.1 channel inputs + some usb connections I guess not sure if that helps with the setup I want to go or if it matter at all.... like I said above I have only used the typical PC 2.1 plug and play setup) 

So please any input is appreciated specially regarding the Amplifier 2.1, the speakers, the subwoofer.... etc etc etc

Have you ever heard of BIC Venturi speakers?  Something like the BICDV62SIB bookshelf speakers?
They are excellent monitors and you can get the V1020 (10") or V1220 (12") powered subwoofer.
As far as an amplifier is concerned, you might want to look into a good one.  Perhaps looking into a nice Yamaha amplifier or reciever (used or new) would do the trick.  It doesn't have to be too powerful, 40W-100W per channel is more than sufficient for that, because the subwoofer has it's own amplifier.
The JBL speakers are nice, but I am serious when I tell you the Venturis are the very best deal for the money.  Your ears won't be disappointed.


Thanks for the input, I'm sort of set for the speakers and sub due to the amount of feedback left, popularity and first and most the looks department, I like how they look. So by what you saying regarding the Amplifier I don't need 2.1 channel, just a decent Yamaha 2.0 channel because the subwoofer has its own amplifier? Just trying to put my head around connecting the subwoofer to the Amp and the amp has only 2 channels, cause head count wise I have 3 peripherals that I want to hook up to 2 channels amp...

Any ways here is the Yamaha that should be good but kind of the size of it does not agree too much with my desk space http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?keywords=Yamaha%20amplifier&qid=1445191596&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I guess also will need the RCA to 3.5mm splitter cable right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The Yamaha seems to be awesome but size is the killer here for me :( Can you recommend another Amplifier in smaller size factor that's good?
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Hak Foo

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If you're gonna buy a reciever, it's a good plan but the wrong executiion.  Don't buy new.  Stereo kit depreciates in a way that makes new GPUs look like T-bills.

Go to a few thrift shops, and there's a solid chance you'll find a fairly competent reciever that's a few years old, priced somewhere between $15 and $50.  I've gotten a couple decent 2000-era 5.1 recievers out of thrift shops, and for your needs you don't even need that.
Overton130, Box Pale Blues.

Offline Snowdog993

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Thanks for the input, I'm sort of set for the speakers and sub due to the amount of feedback left, popularity and first and most the looks department, I like how they look. So by what you saying regarding the Amplifier I don't need 2.1 channel, just a decent Yamaha 2.0 channel because the subwoofer has its own amplifier? Just trying to put my head around connecting the subwoofer to the Amp and the amp has only 2 channels, cause head count wise I have 3 peripherals that I want to hook up to 2 channels amp...

Any ways here is the Yamaha that should be good but kind of the size of it does not agree too much with my desk space http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?keywords=Yamaha%20amplifier&qid=1445191596&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I guess also will need the RCA to 3.5mm splitter cable right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The Yamaha seems to be awesome but size is the killer here for me :( Can you recommend another Amplifier in smaller size factor that's good?

You are just fine with a 2.0 amplifier. Smaller size factor amplifiers can be found, but you might sacrifice sound quality.  Pyle makes a decent compact integrated amplifier if you feel you have to go with a smaller footprint.  I'd recommend at least the 75w per channel model.  The 120w per channel is better.
Yes, you will need the RCA to 3.5mm jacks as well.

http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PCA4/Mini-2x120-Watt-Stereo-Power-Amplifier

Something like that.
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 14:06:18 by Snowdog993 »

Offline Snowdog993

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If you're gonna buy a reciever, it's a good plan but the wrong executiion.  Don't buy new.  Stereo kit depreciates in a way that makes new GPUs look like T-bills.

Go to a few thrift shops, and there's a solid chance you'll find a fairly competent reciever that's a few years old, priced somewhere between $15 and $50.  I've gotten a couple decent 2000-era 5.1 recievers out of thrift shops, and for your needs you don't even need that.

This I have done.  Yes you can find nice amplifiers at thrift shops.  You might want to test them first before shelling out the money.  Some even have a 1-week return for exchange policy.  This would be the most cost-efficient way to do it.

Offline bazemk1979

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Pyle gets mixed reviews on Amazon, while this one gets much better ones and looks more simple than the Pyle http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194381&sr=1-2&keywords=Topping+TP20+mkII

Prices are about the same for example this Pyle one looks decked out but the reviews are little bit shady http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PTA4-2x120-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003NVN1PY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194806&sr=1-1&keywords=pyle+120w+amplifier

So you think none of these will do me as good as the Yamaha, price difference is is only +$60 for the Yamaha, but that's not the issue, the issue is more the size factor and I don't see Yamaha making smaller ones, it the height of the Yamaha was around 4-1/2 inches then it wouldn't be a problem cause would of fit between my shelf and the desk table.... I think I'm screwed haha
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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Pyle gets mixed reviews on Amazon, while this one gets much better ones and looks more simple than the Pyle http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194381&sr=1-2&keywords=Topping+TP20+mkII

Prices are about the same for example this Pyle one looks decked out but the reviews are little bit shady http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PTA4-2x120-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B003NVN1PY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445194806&sr=1-1&keywords=pyle+120w+amplifier

So you think none of these will do me as good as the Yamaha, price difference is is only +$60 for the Yamaha, but that's not the issue, the issue is more the size factor and I don't see Yamaha making smaller ones, it the height of the Yamaha was around 4-1/2 inches then it wouldn't be a problem cause would of fit between my shelf and the desk table.... I think I'm screwed haha

Correct.  The Yamaha would be much better to go with.

Offline bazemk1979

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Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline bazemk1979

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I just measured and seems that the Yamaha will fit but I will have to raise the bottom self 1 level up which equals disassembling the whole Ikea Fredrik desk, ouch!
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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The only thing I wish I could do is actually demonstrate the difference between the Venturis and the JBL speakers.  I think once you heard them, you would make the choice yourself.
However, you can't go wrong with the Yamaha amplifier no matter which way you go.

Offline tp4tissue

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Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.


Offline Snowdog993

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Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.

He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!

Offline bazemk1979

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I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....


 Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011

 Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8

 Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.

EDIT: I hope I enjoy the better quality sound and hope I will get more longevity too out of this setup vs the Logitech z2300 I have. That's what I'm hoping for, otherwise I wouldn't even think going z623 or SP2500 setup.... If upgrade is not worth it I just might fix the speaker and call it a day, but I think the difference will be worth it quality wise and longevity wise.

I mean this set up cost me around $400 vs z623 $110 vs SP2500 $250. I would never justify $250 for 2.1 PC setup.

« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 16:46:09 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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I paid good bucks for that sound card so I don't have to use the mobo sound card. So far this is what looks to be on my list and if I'm missing anything that I need to include on the order please let me know, would hate to have to run to Best Buy as last minute notice....


 Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES20-Books...2%3A2661618011

 Subwoofer: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES150PBK-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8

 Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H88SY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 RCA to 3.5mm split cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RBT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

As far as the speaker sound quality goes, I saw a video of the MAudio compared to the JBL, and while the MAudio being triple the price more than the JBL the difference was minimal in quality, but I think big role for me plays the overall look of the JBL components.

Your speaker links don't work.  I am supposing you are saying the JBL ES-20 bookshelf speakers with the JBL ES150PBK subwoofer.  And my suggestion was the BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB with the V1020 or V1220 subwoofer.

Let's see: JBL ES-20's are 104.95 for the pair
               BIC Venturi BICDV62SIB are 131.73 for the pair.
Subwoofer:  JBL ES150PBK subwoofer is 139.95 with a 10" woofer
                  BIC V1020 is 163.09 with a 10" woofer.
So the price difference is $244.90 for the JBL speaker system and $294.82 for the Venturi system.

Difference: $49.92

Almost $50 price difference.  The Venturi system is about $50 more, but infinitely better sounding.

What's even nicer is the fact that you can get the bookshelf speakers standalone, and they sound astounding on their own.  The subwoofer can come later!  I am that serious!

Of course if aesthetics are what you decided on, you have already made your choice.

Edit: You might find a better deal if you look around.
       The Venturis outperform most speakers costing more than double the price.  But this is my opinion, and you can look at reviews and audiophile sites all over the internet, and decide for yourself.
If I didn't believe in the Venturi's I wouldn't recommend them!  Especially with a 7-year warranty!
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 18:40:44 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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thanks the 7 year warranty might change my mind, where are they made?
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 18:55:48 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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Snowdog looks like the JBL subwoofer has been sold out lol, but in a way I'm  glad because knowing about the BIC little bit more and hopefully they are made here in US but who knows... none the less seems that they are of high quality just its not mainstream product, so few people know about it but put tons of praise to them, like some dude using their speakers and sub 8 years straight without any problems so far.... Who knows maybe they are made here in US lol

Anyways if I'm going to go with BIC then I might just go with whats eye pleasing to me, I haven't looked trough out the whole inventory but I see some nice designs there and so far these catch my eyes from the get go:

Subwoofer: Formula F-12 & Speakers: Formula FH-65B
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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Cool.  I know you won't be disappointed at all.  I think those are a bit more expensive.  I believe the pricing on them are per speaker. (Formula FH-65B)
Remember that.


« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 20:07:27 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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yea I know that
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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I thought I would add a footnote here:
I have a pair of Venturi V52's I have had for more than 10 years, and they are still going strong.

Hmm, must be something about them.

A little article about them...  Sheesh!  They might even be older than that!  I feel old now.

http://articles.philly.com/1992-05-06/news/26013006_1_speakers-dolby-pro-audio-technica

Edit: What is strange is that the V52's actually have a 5.25" woofer, not a 4" woofer.  Perhaps the first ones did.  My guess is that they went with the larger woofer to get the deeper bass from the same design.
« Last Edit: Mon, 19 October 2015, 11:50:08 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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yea I know that

dude is this how the FH-65B sound on their own? no Subwoofer? OMG!

EDIT: WOOOOW no subwoofer needed with these bad boys, so strong and yet sound is clear and no distortion, but they have such a nice boom/bass to them. Now ok, I'm excited now LOL Question is Will the Yamaha be enough to drive these 2 bad boys? That's me considering that later down the road if I upgrade to the subwoofer, mainly the sub feeds itself cause it has amplifier in it. So I would assume that the 100W rated Yamaha is ok for these 2 even those these 2 are rated 330W each, I mean I saw a video on you tube from a dude that was rocking these 2 with mini amplifier, but since now considering I don't need the subwoofer then space for the Amplifier is no longer an issue :)  and maybe just maybe if I'm stupid enough later down the road I will add the subwoofer...

Wow what a sound coming out from them, worth every penny at $90 each, every penny!

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="
frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 20:53:59 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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yea I know that

dude is this how the FH-65B sound on their own? no Subwoofer? OMG!

EDIT: WOOOOW no subwoofer needed with these bad boys, so strong and yet sound is clear and no distortion, but they have such a nice boom/bass to them. Now ok, I'm excited now LOL Question is Will the Yamaha be enough to drive these 2 bad boys? That's me considering that later down the road if I upgrade to the subwoofer, mainly the sub feeds itself cause it has amplifier in it. So I would assume that the 100W rated Yamaha is ok for these 2 even those these 2 are rated 330W each, I mean I saw a video on you tube from a dude that was rocking these 2 with mini amplifier, but since now considering I don't need the subwoofer then space for the Amplifier is no longer an issue :)

Wow what a sound coming out from them, worth every penny at $90 each, every penny!


And you had doubt about Venturi?  That Yamaha is PLENTY of power for them!
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 23:17:17 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1625
No I had no doubt at all considering is the same house making them both models, the reason why I'm looking at the 65B is because of the design. yes they cost almost double but the looks its what attracts me the most, and now the sound wow, for starters I don't even need the subwoofer, not sure if I ever will need it lol. Im going to look around for vids how the venture sounds, but these ones I love their looks!

EDIT: wait you said you had them for 10 years, any repairs done to them?
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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No I had no doubt at all considering is the same house making them both models, the reason why I'm looking at the 65B is because of the design. yes they cost almost double but the looks its what attracts me the most, and now the sound wow, for starters I don't even need the subwoofer, not sure if I ever will need it lol. Im going to look around for vids how the venture sounds, but these ones I love their looks!

EDIT: wait you said you had them for 10 years, any repairs done to them?

Bone stock.  They sound awesome.
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 23:17:44 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
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wow dude the Venturi are the same as the as the 65B quality sound and same quality bass, I couldn't even tell if there was much power wise difference even though the 65B is rated at 330W.... I will need to google them both and look for bunch of pictures because at this point its only about the looks and nothing else, since I don't need the subwoofer the price don't matter paying more for the 65B. But a little more picture googleing and I should be making my decision.

Someone on another forum recommended these speakers http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Powered-Book-Shelf-Speakers/dp/B005OA3BSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445228021&sr=8-1&keywords=a5+speakers, but they are around $400 for pair, they probably are good and they are self powered, but from what I have heard BIC sounds awesome,good warranty and you just told me you have been using them for 10 years headache free, at this point BIC is a no brainer to me, and I appreciate introducing me to them and much appreciate the videos you posted :)

I liked the Logitech, but after 2 years of usage the satellites are crackling, might be just needed to glue down the speaker but who knows, they did good job and I have spent around $250 for 2 sets of Z2300 in 5-6 years time ( not including they sent me one set as a replacement because it was still under warranty, so that makes it 3 sets in 5-6 years). I think I'm ready to spend $300 for something that will last me 10 years or more and I will enjoy more music,movies and gaming.
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 23:24:16 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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wow dude the Venturi are the same as the as the 65B quality sound and same quality bass, I couldn't even tell if there was much power wise difference even though the 65B is rated at 330W.... I will need to google them both and look for bunch of pictures because at this point its only about the looks and nothing else, since I don't need the subwoofer the price don't matter paying more for the 65B. But a little more picture googleing and I should be making my decision.

Someone on another forum recommended these speakers http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Powered-Book-Shelf-Speakers/dp/B005OA3BSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445228021&sr=8-1&keywords=a5+speakers, but they are around $400 for pair, they probably are good and they are self powered, but from what I have heard BIC sounds awesome,good warranty and you just told me you have been using them for 10 years headache free, at this point BIC is a no brainer to me, and I appreciate introducing me to them and much appreciate the videos you posted :)

I liked the Logitech, but after 2 years of usage the satellites are crackling, might be just needed to glue down the speaker but who knows, they did good job and I have spent around $250 for 2 sets of Z2300 in 5-6 years time ( not including they sent me one set as a replacement because it was still under warranty, so that makes it 3 sets in 5-6 years). I think I'm ready to spend $300 for something that will last me 10 years or more and I will enjoy more music,movies and gaming.

Yeah but I am unsure if BIC even makes the V52's any longer.  Yeah, I gave a second thought about the videos I posted, I don't need problems with copyright infringement even though it's a recording of a recording being played through them for demo purposes.  I'm glad you saw it.

I'm pretty sure the speakers may be closer to 20 years old by now, time flies.

Even so, they are strong as ever.  The V62's (DV62si) are even better.  Just letting you know....
« Last Edit: Sun, 18 October 2015, 23:39:23 by Snowdog993 »

Offline bazemk1979

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thanks dude, don't matter now which model I choose, all I know is you posting that video after using B.I.C brand for almost 20 years, at this point don't matter which model I choose, only matters that I'm choosing the B.I.C brand. Making my choice between them both will be only which one appeals more looks wise. Thank a lot dude :)
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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thanks dude, don't matter now which model I choose, all I know is you posting that video after using B.I.C brand for almost 20 years, at this point don't matter which model I choose, only matters that I'm choosing the B.I.C brand. Making my choice between them both will be only which one appeals more looks wise. Thank a lot dude :)

You bet!  I am more than happy with mine, and I am sure you will be happy with yours for years to come!

Offline tp4tissue

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Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.

He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!


NO, he CAN NOT..

unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is,  STILL noisy.

Offline Snowdog993

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Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.

He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!


NO, he CAN NOT..

unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is,  STILL noisy.

Okay.  I'm glad to hear it.

Offline Oobly

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That Yamaha receiver doesn't have a subwoofer out, only two 100W outs. I think the JBL ES20's and the Yamaha R-S201 is a reasonable combination (and you really don't need a subwoofer with good two or three way cabinets), but a pair of FH65's would be even better. The FH65's are much more sensitive, so you don't need to give as much power to get them really pumping and the clarity and dynamic range are very good.

Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.

He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!


NO, he CAN NOT..

unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is,  STILL noisy.

You can't assume his rig behaves the same as yours... If the card has good shielding, good supply components and decent buffers it can give clean audio out.

Of course it's a lot easier to get a clean signal from an external DAC, especially with an electrically isolated system (optical link).

With that in mind, you'd get the best audio from a receiver that has an optical in (using a TOSLINK optical out from your soundcard) and a good internal DAC. The Yamaha doesn't seem to have this, but you can find very nice stereo receivers that do second hand for good prices.

IMHO, I think you'll be fine with RCA's from your Claro Plus+ to the Yamaha. A good amp and speakers will make the noise more noticable if it is there, though. Point is, you've already paid for a sound card with good DAC's and opamps, be shame not to make use of it.

Buying more keycaps,
it really hacks my wallet,
but I must have them.

Offline Snowdog993

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That Yamaha receiver doesn't have a subwoofer out, only two 100W outs. I think the JBL ES20's and the Yamaha R-S201 is a reasonable combination (and you really don't need a subwoofer with good two or three way cabinets), but a pair of FH65's would be even better. The FH65's are much more sensitive, so you don't need to give as much power to get them really pumping and the clarity and dynamic range are very good.

Don't even think about amps unltil you thought about getting away from Motherboard electricals.

You need something with optical out (toslink)

I don't even want to us HDMI audio

My PC uses so much power and it's eletrically noisy as ****.


I've not found ANY WAY of reducing the noise floor on these gaming motherboards,  they're simply not designed for audio.

The only way is toslink to receiver or toslink to separate  DAC+amp.

He told us what his sound card is!
HT Omega CLARO Plus+
If he wants to use analog, he certainly can!


NO, he CAN NOT..

unless he's running it on a low power PC, doesn't matter how good the sound card is,  STILL noisy.

You can't assume his rig behaves the same as yours... If the card has good shielding, good supply components and decent buffers it can give clean audio out.

Of course it's a lot easier to get a clean signal from an external DAC, especially with an electrically isolated system (optical link).

With that in mind, you'd get the best audio from a receiver that has an optical in (using a TOSLINK optical out from your soundcard) and a good internal DAC. The Yamaha doesn't seem to have this, but you can find very nice stereo receivers that do second hand for good prices.

IMHO, I think you'll be fine with RCA's from your Claro Plus+ to the Yamaha. A good amp and speakers will make the noise more noticable if it is there, though. Point is, you've already paid for a sound card with good DAC's and opamps, be shame not to make use of it.

Yeah, and if the decision that he wants to go with the amplified subwoofer ever gets in the picture, he still can.



It's best to go with a variable volume, and the amplified subs allow you to go from the speaker outs to a pass through to your speakers.  As shown in the picture here.

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1625
Ok let me get this straight so I can have it little clear in my head regarding the cable connections. Lets assume that none of the bookshelf speakers come with any wires nor the subwoofer, although I would think the Sub should come with red and white RCA Cable that are attached together correct?

Im lost when it comes to this.... So here is the main question since I want to go 2.1 set up.... 

Step 1: Red and black wire from RIGHT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer RIGHT speaker section.

Step 2: Red and black wire from LEFT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer LEFT speaker section.

Step 3: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black RIGHT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)

Step 4: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black LEFT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)

Step 5: ????????????

If I got things so far right the only thing left from the sub is the Line in, and from the amplifier the CD section which I guess it does nor concern me... then left is line 3 with REC and PB section? So WTF... then from where I connect the split RCA to 3.5mm from the Amplifier to the PC Auxilary port???? Oh men this is messed up and confusing. Makes me wanna just back out on the whole upgrade, I have looked on the internet and not 1 straight answer regarding how to hook passive speakers with amplified sub to amplifier to PC. Not 1 straight answer step by step....!!!!!!!!!!

« Last Edit: Wed, 21 October 2015, 20:39:29 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1625
Im really leaning towards this set up after thinking little bit more about my desk space, wanted to go big with  $200 BIC speakers and later down the road add the FH-12 BIC subwoofer, but now that I reconsidered desk space and keeping my hearing in decent shape I'm leaning towards this set up and gets good reviews, and the speakers sound really good after watching some youtube videos, not changing the Yamaha receiver though.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

https://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208

I'm keeping faithful  to whatever you guys said about the amplifier, Yamaha or nothing... you guys said even if other receivers that are small in size get good reviews they don't tend to last more than 1-2 years, so yes I rather pay more for the Yamaha and looks by the reviews the Dayton speakers get praised a lot and the 8" sub gets lots of praise too for smaller setup such Desktops or small living rooms Entertainment centers. Also Dayton gives 5 years warranty and price is not bad at all..... I know there is much better out there but this is for a desk setup and the room is the typical 12x12 room size...

If I would of gone with the BIC America big boys I might of regretted it.Yamaha recommends  8ohm speakers for the Amplifier, The Dayton are 6 ohm, will that be a problem?

Any ways if we can go back to topic, the whole connection Speakers>Subwoofer>Amplifier>PC is little confusing to me, SnowDog can you shed some light please, thanks.
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
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Ok let me get this straight so I can have it little clear in my head regarding the cable connections. Lets assume that none of the bookshelf speakers come with any wires nor the subwoofer, although I would think the Sub should come with red and white RCA Cable that are attached together correct?

Im lost when it comes to this.... So here is the main question since I want to go 2.1 set up.... 

Step 1: Red and black wire from RIGHT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer RIGHT speaker section.

Step 2: Red and black wire from LEFT speaker to red and black connection of the subwoofer LEFT speaker section.

Step 3: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black RIGHT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)

Step 4: Subwoofer "To receiver" section RCA red and black LEFT to red and white Amplifier LINE 1? ( red-red, white-black?)

Step 5: ????????????

If I got things so far right the only thing left from the sub is the Line in, and from the amplifier the CD section which I guess it does nor concern me... then left is line 3 with REC and PB section? So WTF... then from where I connect the split RCA to 3.5mm from the Amplifier to the PC Auxilary port???? Oh men this is messed up and confusing. Makes me wanna just back out on the whole upgrade, I have looked on the internet and not 1 straight answer regarding how to hook passive speakers with amplified sub to amplifier to PC. Not 1 straight answer step by step....!!!!!!!!!!

If you decide to go with the subwoofer this is how it goes
Step 1:
Run speaker wire from left and right outputs from Receiver to Receiver INPUT on the subwoofer.

Step 2:
Instead of hooking up the speakers to the Receiver, you hook them up to the subwoofer OUTPUT to the speakers.

The signal from the receiver is sent to the subwoofer and the speakers.  The subwoofer output is controlled with a gain control (LEVEL) to make it equalize to the sound level of your speakers.

So the path goes like this...

Receiver Left and Right speaker outs (Black and Red) >----> Subwoofer INPUT (Black and Red)
Subwoofer output (Black and Red) "to speakers"  >----> Speakers (Black and Red)

It's easy to tell the Red from Black if you get speaker wire that is Silver and Copper colored.  I use Silver for Black and Copper for Red.

That's all.  Nothing complicated.

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
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I will post pictures of both the amplifier and the back of the subwoofer and I have few more questions.

1. L+R (white and red wire) from Amplifier to Subwoofer Amplifier Section (like in the sub picture)

2. L+R (white and red wire) from Subwoofer HI-Fi speaker section to the Speakers itself

3. From where on the Amplifier do I run  the  RCA-3.5mm split cable that goes to the PC sound card Aux port? There are  5 options, CD, Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 PB , Line 3 REC???? Which one? lol

Question:

The Dayton speakers are rated at 6 ohm, but I read up under Q&A at parts express that some people said Yamaha recommends 8 ohm speakers. Will this be a problem?

Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
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I will post pictures of both the amplifier and the back of the subwoofer and I have few more questions.

1. L+R (white and red wire) from Amplifier to Subwoofer Amplifier Section (like in the sub picture)

2. L+R (white and red wire) from Subwoofer HI-Fi speaker section to the Speakers itself

3. From where on the Amplifier do I run  the  RCA-3.5mm split cable that goes to the PC sound card Aux port? There are  5 options, CD, Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 PB , Line 3 REC???? Which one? lol

Question:

The Dayton speakers are rated at 6 ohm, but I read up under Q&A at parts express that some people said Yamaha recommends 8 ohm speakers. Will this be a problem?

Just use CD or Line 1  for the RCA jack.

I am presuming it is a Dayton Sub?  There is no problem with running it inline with your speakers.
You'll be fine.

Offline bazemk1979

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1625
I will post pictures of both the amplifier and the back of the subwoofer and I have few more questions.

1. L+R (white and red wire) from Amplifier to Subwoofer Amplifier Section (like in the sub picture)

2. L+R (white and red wire) from Subwoofer HI-Fi speaker section to the Speakers itself

3. From where on the Amplifier do I run  the  RCA-3.5mm split cable that goes to the PC sound card Aux port? There are  5 options, CD, Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 PB , Line 3 REC???? Which one? lol

Question:

The Dayton speakers are rated at 6 ohm, but I read up under Q&A at parts express that some people said Yamaha recommends 8 ohm speakers. Will this be a problem?

Just use CD or Line 1  for the RCA jack.

I am presuming it is a Dayton Sub?  There is no problem with running it inline with your speakers.
You'll be fine.


Yes it will be the Dayton sub, here is the picture of the sub from the rear, I forgot to attach it earlier and the Yamaha just in case you need it, don't want you to break a nail scrolling up the page looking for the Amplifier pic lol
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Oobly

  • * Esteemed Elder
  • Posts: 3929
  • Location: Finland
Im really leaning towards this set up after thinking little bit more about my desk space, wanted to go big with  $200 BIC speakers and later down the road add the FH-12 BIC subwoofer, but now that I reconsidered desk space and keeping my hearing in decent shape I'm leaning towards this set up and gets good reviews, and the speakers sound really good after watching some youtube videos, not changing the Yamaha receiver though.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

https://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208

I'm keeping faithful  to whatever you guys said about the amplifier, Yamaha or nothing... you guys said even if other receivers that are small in size get good reviews they don't tend to last more than 1-2 years, so yes I rather pay more for the Yamaha and looks by the reviews the Dayton speakers get praised a lot and the 8" sub gets lots of praise too for smaller setup such Desktops or small living rooms Entertainment centers. Also Dayton gives 5 years warranty and price is not bad at all..... I know there is much better out there but this is for a desk setup and the room is the typical 12x12 room size...

If I would of gone with the BIC America big boys I might of regretted it.Yamaha recommends  8ohm speakers for the Amplifier, The Dayton are 6 ohm, will that be a problem?

Any ways if we can go back to topic, the whole connection Speakers>Subwoofer>Amplifier>PC is little confusing to me, SnowDog can you shed some light please, thanks.

Okay... The Daytons are less sensitive than the FH65's and lower power rated. So they'll be quieter at a given power than the FH65s and thus need to be driven harder, but they can't handle as much. They're rated at less than half the max output of the Yamaha, so there's a much higher chance of damaging them if you (or someone else) pushes the volume a bit.

The FH65's are a better match, power-wise, to the Yamaha and are more efficient.

Cabinet / driver impedence is a very "dynamic" thing. It changes with frequency and temperature, but will be somewhere around the quoted figure most of the time. 6ohm cabinets will work fine with the Yamaha, but it may run just a tad hotter than with 8 ohm cabs.

If space really is the deciding factor for you, though, I would rather get these than the Daytons: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SP-BS22-LR
With this sub: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SW-8MK2

Better all round in terms of audio quality, similar sensitivity and power handling and not all that much more expensive. For the sub connections, you hook them in parallel to the speakers. So speaker out from the Yamaha goes to the speaker and sub for both channels.

If your budget is really limited then the Daytons are fine, but if you can afford it I'd go for the Pioneers or even better, the FH65's. With the FH65's I really don't think you'd even need the sub, either.

Establishing credentials for being qualified to advise:
More
I actually run a slightly overpowered system for my music... A fEARful 15/6/1 with Eminence 3015LF, eighteensound 6ND410 mid, XD125 horn and my own design crossovers, driven by a Crown XLS1500. Busy building the second for stereo. Originally built for my bass guitar, but with the intention of being able to play full-range content and it does it beautifully. Also designed and built my own tube preamp for it, using 6SL7 tubes.
Buying more keycaps,
it really hacks my wallet,
but I must have them.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Im really leaning towards this set up after thinking little bit more about my desk space, wanted to go big with  $200 BIC speakers and later down the road add the FH-12 BIC subwoofer, but now that I reconsidered desk space and keeping my hearing in decent shape I'm leaning towards this set up and gets good reviews, and the speakers sound really good after watching some youtube videos, not changing the Yamaha receiver though.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

https://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208

I'm keeping faithful  to whatever you guys said about the amplifier, Yamaha or nothing... you guys said even if other receivers that are small in size get good reviews they don't tend to last more than 1-2 years, so yes I rather pay more for the Yamaha and looks by the reviews the Dayton speakers get praised a lot and the 8" sub gets lots of praise too for smaller setup such Desktops or small living rooms Entertainment centers. Also Dayton gives 5 years warranty and price is not bad at all..... I know there is much better out there but this is for a desk setup and the room is the typical 12x12 room size...

If I would of gone with the BIC America big boys I might of regretted it.Yamaha recommends  8ohm speakers for the Amplifier, The Dayton are 6 ohm, will that be a problem?

Any ways if we can go back to topic, the whole connection Speakers>Subwoofer>Amplifier>PC is little confusing to me, SnowDog can you shed some light please, thanks.

Okay... The Daytons are less sensitive than the FH65's and lower power rated. So they'll be quieter at a given power than the FH65s and thus need to be driven harder, but they can't handle as much. They're rated at less than half the max output of the Yamaha, so there's a much higher chance of damaging them if you (or someone else) pushes the volume a bit.

The FH65's are a better match, power-wise, to the Yamaha and are more efficient.

Cabinet / driver impedence is a very "dynamic" thing. It changes with frequency and temperature, but will be somewhere around the quoted figure most of the time. 6ohm cabinets will work fine with the Yamaha, but it may run just a tad hotter than with 8 ohm cabs.

If space really is the deciding factor for you, though, I would rather get these than the Daytons: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SP-BS22-LR
With this sub: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Speakers/Pioneer+Speakers/SW-8MK2

Better all round in terms of audio quality, similar sensitivity and power handling and not all that much more expensive. For the sub connections, you hook them in parallel to the speakers. So speaker out from the Yamaha goes to the speaker and sub for both channels.

If your budget is really limited then the Daytons are fine, but if you can afford it I'd go for the Pioneers or even better, the FH65's. With the FH65's I really don't think you'd even need the sub, either.

Establishing credentials for being qualified to advise:
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I actually run a slightly overpowered system for my music... A fEARful 15/6/1 with Eminence 3015LF, eighteensound 6ND410 mid, XD125 horn and my own design crossovers, driven by a Crown XLS1500. Busy building the second for stereo. Originally built for my bass guitar, but with the intention of being able to play full-range content and it does it beautifully. Also designed and built my own tube preamp for it, using 6SL7 tubes.

I thought that he would only go with the Dayton subwoofer.  I guess he has to match everything to everything?  I believe that it would probably be better if he went BIC for the speakers.

Offline bazemk1979

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here is how the Dayton speakers sound, you be the judge <iframe width="560" height="315" src="
frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

EDIT: After going back and forth with you dudes and thinking it over, I just might be at square 1 with the Yamaha and BIC FH-65 and no need for subwoofer,possibly later. The reason why I steered off from this option was not the desktop space, space is enough considering there wont be subwoofer added. Reason why I backed out on the FH-65 is because of a reviewer on youtube that said don't use them as desktop speakers!  He said even if you listen on them on low/normal sound level will make your ears bleed regardless, I think he said that was the case because them being 96db sensitive the highs will screw up your hearing if you are not at least 4-5 feet away from them no matter the sound level. Honestly that got my head scratching because come on, if you listen to normal volume how can that do any damage too the ears??? Don't make sense but it backed me off from the game plan of buying them.

Funny thing it never even crossed my mind that I work in construction on daily basis where I use wet saws, grinders, big ass 3/4" 10 AMP drill's for mixing mud, table saws, miter saw and what not else and I'm yet to lose my hearing at age 35 working without any ear condoms hahaha
« Last Edit: Thu, 22 October 2015, 18:16:00 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline bazemk1979

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Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65

Awesome!

Offline Oobly

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Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65

Awesome!

+1. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Should also be nice and easy to set up. A good, accurate setup like this, from a good sound card with nice DACs and opamps really makes a difference to how you experience audio. With lossless audio source files you can hear EVERYTHING.
Buying more keycaps,
it really hacks my wallet,
but I must have them.

Offline bazemk1979

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Anyways I went and purchased the Yamaha & the BIC FH-65

Awesome!

+1. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Should also be nice and easy to set up. A good, accurate setup like this, from a good sound card with nice DACs and opamps really makes a difference to how you experience audio. With lossless audio source files you can hear EVERYTHING.

Thanks dude, I think I'll be happy with the setup, 60% more price wise then the Logitech Z2300/Z623  setup or 35% more price wise then Corsair SP2500, but I'm sure it will be worth it considering quality sound and longevity of the product. Now I know I cant say the bass will be better vs the Logitech and Corsair setups, but I don't mind considering from what I heard the bass is decent and the sound is pretty awesome for a stand alone speakers.
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Snowdog993

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We'll see.  Subwoofer, what's that?
*chuckle*

Offline Kola93

  • Posts: 103
  • Location: Canada
The JBL LSR line is quite good. It is a lot better than any other setup in its price range that I have heard.

I use a pair of LSR305 matched with a LSR310S. Highly recommended. ^-^

Offline bazemk1979

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The JBL LSR line is quite good. It is a lot better than any other setup in its price range that I have heard.

I use a pair of LSR305 matched with a LSR310S. Highly recommended. ^-^

The LSR set up with the receiver would of set me somewhere $800-$900. Now speaking of moneys, I would pay even more! not for the LSR setup, but for the twinkie dog in your sig LOL
« Last Edit: Mon, 26 October 2015, 10:21:13 by bazemk1979 »
Quote from: IvanIvanovich on Wed, 08 January 2014, 18:02:50

When you bottom out dong cap... is it going balls deep?

Offline Zaskar

  • Posts: 46
  • Location: NY
Ive found the best thing you can do for PC sound is to forget it has onboard sound entirely (And definitely don't get an aftermarket soundcard) and get a USB DAC. This only works for 2.1 but if thats all you need then a decent USB DAC/Amp is the way to go.

I have never seen a soundcard since the end of the PCI days that managed to isolate itself enough from the rest of the PC's power to not hear a hum in the background when using analogue out. The hum will usually rise and fall with the soundcards power draw.

If you need 5.1/7.1 then the optical out should be fine, it comes close to bypassing the card entirely and uses the DAC on the amp.