Author Topic: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)  (Read 39372 times)

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Offline tp4tissue

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WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 02:09:52 »
Hurray, just got home, my Omron D2F-01F arrived from Mouser..

It says Country of Origin_ Japan.. Hopefully Mouser's not selling fakes like Ebay.


All 3 buttons are replaced with D2F-01F  (left, middle, right)

The wheel is lubed

I expanded the wheel clearance in the front.. used a round-metal-file <the reason is, the scroll wheel tends to hit the button flaps on the WMOs if you press too hard.. > visible in the second-to-LAST FOTO..

The scroll wheel clearance issue is not a problem on the IMO 1.1 or 3.0,  only on the WMO does the cavity need to be expanded.


Most basically, the new omron click is faster and more responsive.

The Stock switches feel very mushy, this may be due to age, maybe they're always like that, I don't have a brand new WMO to compare..



Warning  the PCB traces are very-very thin.. Tp4 does not recommend mouse modding if you are a novice to soldering..  Tp4 highly recommends a bit more practice before attempt..

You can easily burn off these copper traces if you don't have a feel for the timing and temperature.


Update: Tightening Scroll wheel

Picture in last photo of post

Added standard mx-Spring to scroll wheel tensioner.. Fits perfectly, and will stay in place with no additional bonding mechanism.

It simply wedges against the PCB..

Note, you must place the top-of-the-spring underneath the tension-er before attempting to re-insert the pcb into the housing..  Otherwise, the spring will not go under the space once the pcb is in place.


The PCB is sandwiched into the last clear spiral on the spring to hold it tightly against the housing.  Do not try to suspend the entire spring completely above the pcb into that small cavity, this might cause it to slide left and right.

Because I am worried about the metal potentially digging into the pcb, I put a piece of tape on the pcb to insulate.. the spring's metal against the pcb.

OMRON Switch, Soldering Guidelines:

Temperature must be as low as possible, THEREFORE, use Leaded Solder.

63% tin-37% lead,  Kester 44, --recommended--


300-350, Celcius is the range of temperature you want.  as per spec-sheet, complete soldering at NO MORE than 3 seconds MAX..



DO NOT operate or at all perturb the switch immediately after soldering,

The plastic is melted/soft and any movement will cause internals to mis-align


Make sure to TIE DOWN the switch to the pcb using twist ties.. tie the switch down the middle,    Solder the two outside joints, then remove the twist tie, and solder the middle.  Wait for complete cooling before removing the twist tie to solder the middle pin..






To prevent overheating,  you could wait for complete cooling after soldering Each joint.


OR alternatively, you can solder all the switches simultaneously, alternating between each pin of each switch..  This gives it some time to cool..

Again, NOT jostling/engaging/pushing the switch after soldering is very important.

DO NOT RUSH,  I know you might be very anxious to try out them new omrons,  but if you rush, you greatly increase the odds of overheating or disturbing the switch while soft..


Take your time,  these things arn't exactly cheap, $1.5 per switch, $5 shipping per package..







132629-0

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Omron WMO, it's Done !!
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 02:26:08 »
The switch under the middle click can't be modded with an omron d2f, there's not enough clearance.


UPDATE:


Modding the Middle Click button.

The Omron D2F will not fit if that ribbon cable stays above the PCB

Just split the ribbon cable down the middle, Route it beneath the front pcb in an (S) shape.

Resolder it to the bottom, DO NOT stick the wires all the way through, the copper is on the bottom..

It's important you do not stick the ribbon cable wires too deeply into the holes from below the pcb.. The reason is,  the NC-pin (3rd pin) placement of the Omron switch is almost exactly over one of the holes..  if you stick the ribbon cable all the way through, it might touch that NC-pin. Yes, I did cut the NC pin off, and filed it down to the housing, but there is still a bit of copper there . So be careful..


Don't worry if your solder joints are a bit large, there are ~2mm of clearance available beneath that pcb.

-I used a womenz hair pin to hold the cable in place for soldering.


Now the mouse haz 100% Japan Omron..

Offline Hzza

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Re: Omron WMO, it's Done !!
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 03:36:16 »
I've done it, feels good man. I used some random Cherry mouse switches from an 11900 for mine but yeah, stock switches felt like **** in comparison (had two, modded one), not sure if it's age or if they're supposed to feel like that. I did find some switches on ebay to replace the middle mouse button, pretty sure it was these but never got around to swapping them in yet.

Offline ApocalypseMaow

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Re: Omron WMO, it's Done !!
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 03:58:34 »
TP can you link those... I would like to try and replace my switches

edit: NVM found them!!!
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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: Omron WMO, it's Done !!
« Reply #4 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 04:08:19 »
Updated to 100% omron..


Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 04:54:52 »
I've done it, feels good man. I used some random Cherry mouse switches from an 11900 for mine but yeah, stock switches felt like **** in comparison (had two, modded one), not sure if it's age or if they're supposed to feel like that. I did find some switches on ebay to replace the middle mouse button, pretty sure it was these but never got around to swapping them in yet.

I dones it..  see post 2 for details.  now fully OMron. 

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #7 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 12:44:52 »

Review:

Broke in the mouse with some Cookie Clicker.. put in 24,000 clicks on the left button..

Is the D2F different from D2FC ??


The answer is... Yes... the click on the D2F feels tighter and more distinct (tactile)...


Best description for the experience would be --crispy--,  a very satisfying SNAP feel..


The WMO is really such a great product

There is an elegance to having simply 3 buttons. Nostalgic and useful with no hindrance.

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 13:45:26 »
If I really sit back and think about it..


Perhaps.... Perhaps... we only love Omrons because they're ubiquitous..


For example... You know how everyone has an expectation of how cream cheese should taste, and if you change the taste, people go, WTF..


Maybe we've become so ENTRENCHED with Omrons being the Default Mice switch.. We can't seem to accept anything else..



Offline Hzza

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 13:57:54 »
I've done it, feels good man. I used some random Cherry mouse switches from an 11900 for mine but yeah, stock switches felt like **** in comparison (had two, modded one), not sure if it's age or if they're supposed to feel like that. I did find some switches on ebay to replace the middle mouse button, pretty sure it was these but never got around to swapping them in yet.

I dones it..  see post 2 for details.  now fully OMron. 
Show Image

Nice one, I'll give that a try next time I've got the soldering iron out D.

Offline pr0ximity

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 20 March 2016, 19:56:30 »
This is the most gorgeous thing I have seen in a long time. I have a WMO in my office that is begging to be used. One of the finest mice ever made in my humble opinion, many good times. I'll have to rejuvinate it, thank you for the inspiration based tp4  ^-^

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #11 on: Mon, 21 March 2016, 13:11:41 »
This is the most gorgeous thing I have seen in a long time. I have a WMO in my office that is begging to be used. One of the finest mice ever made in my humble opinion, many good times. I'll have to rejuvinate it, thank you for the inspiration based tp4  ^-^

Make sure to keep the temp low..

I don't think soldering braids are a good idea here,  solderpult is faster, so you can apply less energy overall to the area..

Traces are so thin.. I was very nervous when desoldering. 

Offline LXXXIX

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #12 on: Mon, 21 March 2016, 19:40:23 »
I wish more TP threads were like this. :(

Offline demik

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #13 on: Mon, 21 March 2016, 19:41:35 »
god damn it tp, u can take a pic of your mouse but not your ergosux or watermelons??
No he's not around.

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #14 on: Mon, 21 March 2016, 19:42:47 »
god damn it tp, u can take a pic of your mouse but not your ergosux or watermelons??

Just trying to preserve the magic... friend demik..

Offline rm-rf

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #15 on: Wed, 23 March 2016, 15:50:03 »
i did the reverse to my mouse logitech g303, one of my switches broke. (omron)
so i replaced it with switches from a "logitech mouseman wheel" "m-cw47" circa 1998


Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #16 on: Wed, 23 March 2016, 16:19:17 »
Awesome stuff --rm-rf--

G303 uses Kailh ?

Are you going to replace the side buttons as well?

Offline rm-rf

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #17 on: Wed, 23 March 2016, 23:39:21 »
Awesome stuff --rm-rf--

G303 uses Kailh ?

Are you going to replace the side buttons as well?

yeah. it uses omrons, and kailh. thought it was rather weird.
2 omrons for right/left click. and 4 kailh, for the two side button, middle click, and mouse wheel.
i was going to replace them all. but i decided to just wait, until another one dies i guess.
^^

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #18 on: Thu, 24 March 2016, 08:47:46 »
Awesome stuff --rm-rf--

G303 uses Kailh ?

Are you going to replace the side buttons as well?

yeah. it uses omrons, and kailh. thought it was rather weird.
2 omrons for right/left click. and 4 kailh, for the two side button, middle click, and mouse wheel.
i was going to replace them all. but i decided to just wait, until another one dies i guess.
^^

are you at all bothered that the middle click isn't also an omron..

That really bothers me.  I really need those 3 buttons to be the same..

Offline rm-rf

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #19 on: Thu, 24 March 2016, 15:08:57 »
Awesome stuff --rm-rf--

G303 uses Kailh ?

Are you going to replace the side buttons as well?

yeah. it uses omrons, and kailh. thought it was rather weird.
2 omrons for right/left click. and 4 kailh, for the two side button, middle click, and mouse wheel.
i was going to replace them all. but i decided to just wait, until another one dies i guess.
^^

are you at all bothered that the middle click isn't also an omron..

That really bothers me.  I really need those 3 buttons to be the same..

for you, i'l solder in another matching switch.
but tbh. i don't use the middle click.

i've also got a blue switch made by zippy.
it feels like 200g force to actuate.
tempted to put that for the back button.

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #20 on: Thu, 24 March 2016, 15:46:01 »

are you at all bothered that the middle click isn't also an omron..

That really bothers me.  I really need those 3 buttons to be the same..

for you, i'l solder in another matching switch.
but tbh. i don't use the middle click.

i've also got a blue switch made by zippy.
it feels like 200g force to actuate.
tempted to put that for the back button.

ugh... now the side buttons are bothering me..  You're so close... hahaha

but, I don't think you can make the wheel click omron.. it's an smd button i think.. from looking at the pcb.

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #21 on: Sat, 26 March 2016, 00:31:34 »
Update:

Added standard mx-Spring to scroll wheel tensioner.. Fits perfectly, and will stay in place with no additional bonding mechanism.

It simply wedges against the PCB..

Note, you must place the top-of-the-spring underneath the tension-er before attempting to re-insert the pcb into the mouse housing..  Otherwise, the spring will not go under the space once the pcb is in place.


the PCB is sandwiched into the last clear spiral on the spring to hold it tightly against the housing.  Do not try to suspend the entire spring completely above the pcb into that small cavity, this might cause it to slide left and right.

Because I am worried about the metal potentially digging into the pcb, I put a piece of tape on the pcb to insulate.. the spring's metal against the pcb.



132214-0

Offline appleonama

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #22 on: Sat, 26 March 2016, 00:33:43 »
so why this mouse? sentimental value ?

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #23 on: Sat, 26 March 2016, 00:40:07 »
so why this mouse? sentimental value ?

Not really..   it's Historical..

Offline ApocalypseMaow

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #24 on: Sat, 26 March 2016, 00:55:53 »
so why this mouse? sentimental value ?
it's the mouse that all other mice aspire to be  :thumb:
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Offline appleonama

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #25 on: Sat, 26 March 2016, 00:56:48 »
so why this mouse? sentimental value ?

Not really..   it's Historical..

nice! so eta on ramen guide?

Offline OfTheWild

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #26 on: Mon, 28 March 2016, 15:07:46 »
So just to confirm, you just cut and filed off the pole that was not needed yes? I am guessing it does not matter which since this switch just flops between the two ends right?

Also, Did you figure out a good way to "tighten" up the wheel scroll? I was thinking about trying to heat-set the black plastic 'L' frame in toward the center more to give some pressure on the gear. I'm hoping with a small amount of lube on it the plastic detent wont wear down any further.
-Dana

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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #27 on: Mon, 28 March 2016, 15:21:44 »
So just to confirm, you just cut and filed off the pole that was not needed yes? I am guessing it does not matter which since this switch just flops between the two ends right?

Also, Did you figure out a good way to "tighten" up the wheel scroll? I was thinking about trying to heat-set the black plastic 'L' frame in toward the center more to give some pressure on the gear. I'm hoping with a small amount of lube on it the plastic detent wont wear down any further.


You can only cut and file off the one on the FAR side of the actual button..

DO NOT cut off the pin CLOSER to the button..  YOU NEED THAT.. hahahahaha...

132627-0


First cut, then File,  the file is good because you don't want it to accidentally dig into the pcb, or short something..


I added an update post # 20 in this thread..  on how to tighten up the wheel,  just put an mx spring in there..

Be careful when removing the Front pcb, because there is a small plastic latch BEHIND the ribbon cable, that is not obvious..

Even if you break that latch, it doesn't really matter..  but just an FYI..





Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #28 on: Mon, 02 May 2016, 15:37:56 »
OMRON Switch, Soldering Guidelines:

Temperature must be as low as possible, THEREFORE, use Leaded Solder.

63% tin-37% lead,  Kester 44, --recommended--


300-350F is the range of temperature you want.  as per spec-sheet, complete soldering at NO MORE than 3 seconds MAX..



DO NOT operate or at all perturb the switch immediately after soldering,

The plastic is melted/soft and any movement will cause internals to mis-align


Make sure to TIE DOWN the switch to the pcb using twist ties.. tie the switch down the middle,    Solder the two outside joints, then remove the twist tie, and solder the middle.  Wait for complete cooling before removing the twist tie to solder the middle pin..


To prevent overheating,  you could wait for complete cooling before Each joint.


OR alternatively, you can solder all the switches simultaneously, alternating between each pin of each switch..  This gives it some time to cool..

Again, NOT jostling/engaging/pushing the switch after soldering is very important.


DO NOT RUSH,  I know you might be very anxious to try out them new omrons,  but if you rush, you greatly increase the odds of overheating or disturbing the switch while soft..


Take your time,  these things arn't exactly cheap, $1.5 per switch, $5 shipping per package..



Offline OfTheWild

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #29 on: Wed, 20 July 2016, 07:47:06 »
I dont think 63/37 will melt under 400F. Wikipedia says 60/40 solder melts at 183 deg C (361 deg F)
-Dana

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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #30 on: Wed, 20 July 2016, 07:55:27 »
I dont think 63/37 will melt under 400F. Wikipedia says 60/40 solder melts at 183 deg C (361 deg F)

Hhahahahahahaha..


This guy.. '''

314-343 is recommended by kester for their 63/37



But more basically, those temperatures are guidelines.. you can't set an iron to precisely 343, or 344,  it's also not going to be that temperature evenly throughout the entire tip, only certain sections of it..

So, all we're doing is establishing the upper range to not damage the part..

OMRON themselves is quoting the 350F number.. so,  if 63/37 didn't melt at that temp, what exactly are they using ?

Offline OfTheWild

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #31 on: Wed, 20 July 2016, 08:28:17 »
Guess i need to just suck it up and spend the $30 on Kester then huh  :p
Omron switches are on there way, I'll post pics when i'm done modding.
-Dana

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Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #32 on: Wed, 20 July 2016, 08:34:25 »
Make sure to TIE the switch (twist ties) when you're soldering..  having it flush and TOUCHING the board is very important..

If the switch is slightly askew, or hovering above, not touching, the board..

Long term use will jab the switch down and rip the traces on the other side..



Solder two of the pins, while it's TIED,  Then solder the third, after you UNTIE.




Offline OfTheWild

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #33 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 00:11:51 »
As promised, heres my Omron upgrade walk through. I will say right off the bat, at 350F indicated on my Hakko fx888d, It will not melt brand new Kester 63/37 rosin core solder in even the .020 gauge. It starts to melt around 360 but wont burn off the rosin. For me it started to flow at about 450-480 F. Your iron/tip/solder might be different. I know this will make you scared but I did all my work on this at 650 F which is where I am normally with pcb soldering. I dunno, its just the speed i'm comfortable with - realistically its about 3-4 seconds of contact per pin. Anyway, thats just my mileage.

The intelimouse optical came with D2F-01F-T switches which are still very nice. I was having some issues with it double clicking and dropping a selection or basically releasing a click and hold intermittently. I will say that it could be that they were 15? years old or really are that much better but the non -T switches are definitely a bit more firm. Anyway, its done, they work. I will need to replace the cable one of these years as well if i plan to keep using it daily.

Equipment: Hakko FX-888D, Kester 63/37 rosin core solder, and new Omron D2F-01F switches (Ordered from Amazon actually).


Board layout after disassembly
Only swapped the left and right click switches


OEM with *-T switches.
Not bad, but not the best. Left click was malfunctioning intermittently during click and hold as well


Desoldering.
Solder wick helps but a solder sucker is what i used for most of the removal.


Left switch out. moving on to the right.
650 F is what i have the Hakko set to. In and out, quick and clean.


Using clamp to hold new switch in place.
Soldered in at 650 F. I use a bent conical tip ... again just my preference.


New switches in.
Cleaned up rosin residue with some 90% alcohol and reinstalled. Definitely better. Very defined click and no more click and drag issues or phantom double clicks. Hopefully i'll get another 15 years from an old favorite desk mouse.
-Dana

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Invyr 'Pandas'__________Salmon ALPS___55g Hasu Bluetooth ____Zealios 67/78g___________Cherry Clear Variable____Cream 'dampened' ALPS_____Cherry 'Jailhouse' Blues_____Buckling

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #34 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 00:21:48 »
You got 3 more switches to swap..

Why stop now ?

Offline OfTheWild

  • Formerly boostdemon
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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #35 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 00:31:36 »
lol yeah i thought about it but there was some dremel work that would have been required for both the switches and the mouse plastic so i opted to skip the 2 pole ones for this round. They are drastically more muddy than the new ones for sure.
-Dana

Ducky Pro G2 | MiniVan | HHKB Type-S | Sentraq S60-X | WhiteFox Aria | KBParadise V80 | Leopold fc200rt | IBM Model-F XT
Invyr 'Pandas'__________Salmon ALPS___55g Hasu Bluetooth ____Zealios 67/78g___________Cherry Clear Variable____Cream 'dampened' ALPS_____Cherry 'Jailhouse' Blues_____Buckling

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #36 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 00:46:00 »
lol yeah i thought about it but there was some dremel work that would have been required for both the switches and the mouse plastic so i opted to skip the 2 pole ones for this round. They are drastically more muddy than the new ones for sure.

Don't dremel the switch.. Dremel the housing.. Never dremel the switch. hahaha

I'm just saying, since you've already come this far..

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #37 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 00:50:44 »
...COUGH....

So, I made a mistake in my OP,   350 C,  which is 660F..




It has been corrected



One of those things that You intuitively assume,  but type out wrong, and everytime you read it, you don't catch the mistake, because it obviously couldn't be F..

When boostdemon pointed it out, I read his post as suggesting more than 350C even though he mentioned F..  I still read it as C..

Offline Air tree

  • Better late than never ^-^
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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #38 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 05:06:16 »
I really want to do this mod on my two Microsoft Intellimouse/mice... Maybe I'll find the time to do it. I'll need to pick up a soldering kit, though.


« Last Edit: Sun, 24 July 2016, 05:10:11 by Air tree »

Offline tp4tissue

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Re: WMO Ultimate, it's Done !! Update (Now 100% Omron)
« Reply #39 on: Sun, 24 July 2016, 10:27:27 »
I really want to do this mod on my two Microsoft Intellimouse/mice... Maybe I'll find the time to do it. I'll need to pick up a soldering kit, though.




Soldering pump.. Get one, get the big one, more suction..