[Help] Dead keys while soldering new switches on

[myro]

Hey there everyone.
 
Edit:  Thanks to user: Sup I know I need to do a jumper for these two switches. I have some wires, a picture is here:  Wire https://imgur.com/gallery/qiZIS4V my main question now is where too make the connections.

I bought the new poker ii back in January with mx blues as I have only used them shortly in the past and wanted to give them a try. After a week I decided to go back to my usual browns and de-soldered the blues and put the browns on. In the process I lost function of my right shift bar, as I rarely use the key I decided to just roll with it and since then I have been using the board with no issues. I'm going to be building a new board shortly and I ordered some Halo Trues to use on that board. Last night I decided to try and fix the right shift key and in the process decided to just try out the Halo trues. I de-soldered all the browns and put the halo trues on. Except now I not only still have a dead right shift, but now my left alt isn't working either.

I have a hot soldering iron (around 600F) and can't control the temp. To combat this I made sure to be careful to only keep the iron on the pcb for a max of like 2 seconds. Every key except those two work fine and I had no other issues than this. I tried adding different switches into the L alt and R shift and still nothing. I also tried to add and remove solder to see if the solder was really getting into the pin and nothing is working. I've also tried using less and more solder to see if that would help and still nothing. I have a feeling that I shorted those two areas, and if that is the case what can I do to fix this issues?

The only soldering experience I have are the two times I listed in this post. I will attach images of all the areas so that you all can make your assessments.

https://imgur.com/gallery/gQhPxF0

[Sup]

It seems you lifted some of the pads off. You need to make a jumper for it. But i have no clue how that works some other smart people will comment probably down below how to fix it.
If you don't feel like fixing it you could always get a new PCB like the DZ60. And i think its also a upgrade from the normal Poker II PCB anyway since its QMK compatible.

[myro]

Hey thank you for the reply. I see what you mean about the pads. I actually have a zd60 on the way which will be used in the new board. Just tying to get this fixed for the time being. Thank you for the information. I really appreciate the help.

[tp4tissue]

The right pin are both ground,  connect it to the nearest ground plain, they're all shared, you can connect anywhere.

The left one,   follow the trace to the nearest connection.

(Left pins) Check with the multimeter from the place you want to connect, to the original ring, they look ok though, so you won't need to bridge.


If you plan to do this into the future, You need a Soldering pump (soldapult 3) and a temperature controlled iron.

Watch for sales on the 888 hakko, they go for $65 at frys through google chkout.

[myro]

The right pin are both ground,  connect it to the nearest ground plain, they're all shared, you can connect anywhere.

The left one,   follow the trace to the nearest connection.

(Left pins) Check with the multimeter from the place you want to connect, to the original ring, they look ok though, so you won't need to bridge.


If you plan to do this into the future, You need a Soldering pump (soldapult 3) and a temperature controlled iron.

Watch for sales on the 888 hakko, they go for $65 at frys through google chkout.

So would this work then? Jump https://imgur.com/gallery/JtM0uCc

[myro]

Hey everyone, Just wanted to update and say that I have fixed both the alt and the right shift with a jump. Thank you all for the advice and I really appreciate how amazing this community is. <3

[tp4tissue]

Hey everyone, Just wanted to update and say that I have fixed both the alt and the right shift with a jump. Thank you all for the advice and I really appreciate how amazing this community is. <3