How are you liking your ErgoDox?

[daerid]

Here's one

[Poom]

thank you, i contacted some of them already.

have a question though, and may sounds stupid, but as of yet there is only PCB mount right? does that mean removing the switch cover to mod does not need desoldering?

[wiredPANDA]

Correct - you do not need to desolder switches to mod them.  The case/layers were designed to allow modding of the switches.

[daerid]

One of the layers of the case sort of acts like a plate, but be wary that it doesn't do anything to reduce the strain when pulling keycaps off.

[tp4tissue]

In my opinion, the only advantage to having legends is for the benefit of guest users. The separate halves almost require touch typing and seeing the legends may encourage bad habits and slow the process of learning the layout.

As for the keycap profile, my vote would go to the dcs profile. The dsa's solved the confusion of creating a profiled layout that would work with the ErgoDox  and some say that they look better but I find some of the keys are easier to hit with the sculpted rows. I find that particularly true with the upper thumb keys.

No one touches my ergodox.. but me....

[tp4tissue]

One of the layers of the case sort of acts like a plate, but be wary that it doesn't do anything to reduce the strain when pulling keycaps off.

On the caps subject... Pick one, and just leave it that way... these clear stems are epic tight....

[daerid]

I've swapped out from DSA to DCS and back a few times, just gotta be gentle and rock the puller back and forth.

Takes a while though.

[SubGothius]

One of the layers of the case sort of acts like a plate, but be wary that it doesn't do anything to reduce the strain when pulling keycaps off.

On the caps subject... Pick one, and just leave it that way... these clear stems are epic tight....

Once I realized the mounting plate is too thick for the switch bodies to properly "latch in", I decided to be extra-generous with the solder points on my switches, pretty much completely filled in the entire thru-holes with solder, since that's all that holds the switch down when pulling caps off.  That said, the black POM cap set I scavenged off that Cherry G81 board turned out to fit the stems perfectly, just snug enough to be secure, but still pop off easily when pulled. I reckon the slightly waxy/self-lubricating texture of POM also helps with removal.

[Jur]

I am currently waiting for my Ergodox from the most recent Massdrop and want to order some colored acrylic plates.
Now i just need the measurements, i have this picture : http://i.imgur.com/cw4nX0w.png are the combined plates 3/4" and the individual ones 0,013 inches ?
If someone could give me the exact thickness that would be awsome. <3

Greetings,

Jur

[daerid]

Once I realized the mounting plate is too thick for the switch bodies to properly "latch in", I decided to be extra-generous with the solder points on my switches, pretty much completely filled in the entire thru-holes with solder, since that's all that holds the switch down when pulling caps off.  That said, the black POM cap set I scavenged off that Cherry G81 board turned out to fit the stems perfectly, just snug enough to be secure, but still pop off easily when pulled. I reckon the slightly waxy/self-lubricating texture of POM also helps with removal.

I would suggest doing that anyways, you'll generally get a better solder joint.

[MOZ]

I am currently waiting for my Ergodox from the most recent Massdrop and want to order some colored acrylic plates.
Now i just need the measurements, i have this picture : http://i.imgur.com/cw4nX0w.png are the combined plates 3/4" and the individual ones 0,013 inches ?
If someone could give me the exact thickness that would be awsome. <3

Greetings,

Jur

Top and bottom layers are 3/32" and three middle layers are 3/16". You can get the CAD files from ergodox.org

I am getting acrylic plates cut for myself as well in these thickness:
Top - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 3/16"
Plate - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 4/16" = 1/4"
Bottom - 3/16"

Total thickness = 14/16"

[Jur]

Thank you mohitgarg, i downloaded the cad files and will send them inc these measurements to the cutter right away.
I will post some pictures when its done.

[oTurtlez]

When I first saw the ErgoDox amongst other ergo boards I thought people were crazy to use them. I to this day have never sued an ergo board, but after reading a bunch of this thread it makes me hope that a round 3 goes through on Massdrop. I'd love to get to love one of these things. Do the full kits include case, pcb, controller, cables, and switches?

[Jur]

This is wat is in the kit that i ordered :

2 x PCB
10 x Acrylic case Plates (see this image for layer ordering)
1 x Teensy USB Board, Version 2
1 x MCP23018 I/O expander
2 x 3.5mm TRRS connector
1 x USB mini B plug
1 x 0.1uF ceramic capacitor
76 x 1N4148 diode (through-hole) or 1N4148W-7-F diode (surface-mount)
2 x 2.2kΩ resistor
3 x 3mm T1 LED
3 x 220Ω resistor
76 x Cherry MX clear switch
2 x USB cable Male A to male mini B
1 x TRRS cable
14 (16 for Full cases) x Case screws/nuts

I also got : Keycaps (Blank PBT DSA )
Case Style: Classic

[Latin00032]

Thank you mohitgarg, i downloaded the cad files and will send them inc these measurements to the cutter right away.
I will post some pictures when its done.

I'm trying to find a way to get a custom top plate.

Does anyone know what rubber feet I can use on this?

[litster]

I am currently waiting for my Ergodox from the most recent Massdrop and want to order some colored acrylic plates.
Now i just need the measurements, i have this picture : http://i.imgur.com/cw4nX0w.png are the combined plates 3/4" and the individual ones 0,013 inches ?
If someone could give me the exact thickness that would be awsome. <3

Greetings,

Jur

Top and bottom layers are 3/32" and three middle layers are 3/16". You can get the CAD files from ergodox.org

I am getting acrylic plates cut for myself as well in these thickness:
Top - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 3/16"
Plate - 2/16" = 1/8"
Spacer - 4/16" = 1/4"
Bottom - 3/16"

Total thickness = 14/16"

This is what I told Massdrop, and the thickness I used for the ErgoDox case I designed.  From top to bottom:

1/8"
3/16"
3/16" <--- mounting plate
3/16"
1/8"


Acrylic sheets thickness vary from batch to batch, even from the same company.  Generally they are 1/64" to 1/32" thinner than they are spec'ed.  Buy and cut your acrylic sheets with caution.  You want the acrylic mounting plate be as thick as possible to minimize plate flex while still fits between the switches and the PCB.  This is not a problem with aluminum or stainless steel plates.  But acrylic is too flexible at 1/16" or even 1/8". 

[daerid]

I too am interested in rubber feet

[Glod]

ATTENTION Ergodoxers!

Keycaps for ErgoDox, SA Profile - Military Theme

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45655.0

Base set + ErgoDox Add On = Ergodox Set

We need 25 Add On Kits

Spread the word

[daerid]

Oh man, I totally would, but I'm not digging on the *SA profile these days. Colors look sick though!

[Pandora]

If I understand their ordering process, you can order blank key caps but not lettered?  Where do you buy
the ones with letters on them? I have some stick-on letters but they fade very quickly.

[MOZ]

If I understand their ordering process, you can order blank key caps but not lettered?  Where do you buy
the ones with letters on them? I have some stick-on letters but they fade very quickly.

You will have to order a base set from elsewhere as you only require the alphanumeric set in legends. Some members use other layouts and thus you won't find printed keycap ergodox sets.

[tp4tissue]

If I understand their ordering process, you can order blank key caps but not lettered?  Where do you buy
the ones with letters on them? I have some stick-on letters but they fade very quickly.

You will have to order a base set from elsewhere as you only require the alphanumeric set in legends. Some members use other layouts and thus you won't find printed keycap ergodox sets.

this is a huge problem.. My layout is radically more awesome than everyone else's..

They just don't print caps that are as awesome as my layout.

[Pandora]

That's kind of funny when the picture on their website shows a qwerty key layout.  Would I be
able to swap the keys from the keyboard I'm using now? I think the switches are Cherry red.

[kurplop]

 Welcome to geekhack. Yes, you can use any cap that will fit a Cherry MX switch. You may have to order separate 1.5x and 2x blank keys however because it's unlikely you will have the proper legends and sizes in a conventional keyboard.

[fisofo]

Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html

will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap

Thanks!

[Glod]

Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html

will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap

Thanks!

wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.

[fisofo]

Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html

will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap

Thanks!

wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.

Good to know. Do you know where I could get a couple key caps like this that will match the DCS profile? Thanks!

[Glod]

Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html

will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap

Thanks!

wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.

Good to know. Do you know where I could get a couple key caps like this that will match the DCS profile? Thanks!

its a bit expensive, but i use a mix of the White on Black Doubleshot Set from SP, DCS Blanks, and DSA Blanks.

The set is here: http://www.keycapsdirect.com/marketplace.php for $60

here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.

[fisofo]

Does anyone know if these line key caps from wasd:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/row-2-size-1x1-line-cherry-mx-keycap.html

will work with the DCS key caps group buy?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergodox-keycap

Thanks!

wasd uses "OEM" profile which is noticeably higher than SP DCS profile. I mean you can use any key caps you wont with it, it just may not be flush.

Good to know. Do you know where I could get a couple key caps like this that will match the DCS profile? Thanks!

its a bit expensive, but i use a mix of the White on Black Doubleshot Set from SP, DCS Blanks, and DSA Blanks.

The set is here: http://www.keycapsdirect.com/marketplace.php for $60

here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.

Show Image

Yeah, you've got a beautiful setup there; love the custom wood palm rests!

Anyway, thanks for the direction. Maybe I'll contact SP about getting just the keys I need.

[flc]

I got my ergodox in round 3 and put it together on Saturday. This is my first mechanical keyboard and most of my soldering experience is from about 20 years ago. That said here is my experience building and using the ergodox so far.

The only tools I used were a $5 soldering iron from Radio Shack, a pair of diagonal cutters, a pair of tweezers, a sharp utility knife, a nail file and a magnifying glass. Since the soldering iron was going to be on for hours I also bought the cheapest dimmer switch I could buy and rigged it so that I could regulate the temperature of the iron as needed.

A video I saw from a member here was a lot of help, especially with ideas on how to solder the surface mount diodes. I found the massdrop instructions to be spot on for the most part. There were a few times I got a little confused as to which side of the thru-hole components I should solder but a close look at the PC revealed that it mostly did not matter as soldering either side would create the same electrical connection. I really got a chance to appreciate all the work and thought that went into the design of the ergodox.

I decided to check each diode with a meter as I went along to confirm connectivity and orientation. This proved to be very useful as I caught a few on backwards early on. After the better part of the afternoon/evening the project was complete and fully tested.

The board does take some getting used to, but it is not as bad as I thought. I am loving the split design and the feel for the cherry clear switches that I got with it – but then again I have nothing else to compare them to. The hardest thing so far is getting used to the location of some keys on the top rows due to the matrix design. I'm also experiencing the same problem someone else had with the thumb naturally resting just to the side of the thumb keys, making one wish they were slightly closer. But I'm sure I will get used to both these minor issues rather quickly. I also wished the keycaps had a bump on the home keys. I've temporarily resolved that with a piece of tape.

Now, off to trying to customize the layout.

* Modified to include a magnifying glass to the list of tools.

[kurplop]

I've been curious about your opinion of the ErgoDox. Thanks for the update. I think you will get use to the straight columns in short order. I agree that the thumb clusters could be improved upon, but I still think it's currently the best thing out there.

I'm also glad to hear that you had little trouble assembling it. 

[daerid]

I agree that the thumb clusters could be improved upon, but I still think it's currently the best thing out there.

For me (as I have large hands), I think the 2x thumb buttons are perfect. But I'll be honest, I don't use the 1x buttons in the thumb cluster at all (well I do have two of them setup to load the bootloader when I press both, but that's it).

[kurplop]

I guess that's my point. The thumbs could easily control more of the modifying load but the 2-2x keys are the only ones that are very comfortable to use.

[Larken]

I agree that the thumb clusters could be improved upon, but I still think it's currently the best thing out there.

For me (as I have large hands), I think the 2x thumb buttons are perfect. But I'll be honest, I don't use the 1x buttons in the thumb cluster at all (well I do have two of them setup to load the bootloader when I press both, but that's it).

I guess that's my point. The thumbs could easily control more of the modifying load but the 2-2x keys are the only ones that are very comfortable to use.

even after months of using the thing, i still have trouble touch typing the top row of numbers, specifically when typing in long strings for authentication purposes. Individual numbers while typing sentences are mostly fine.

I agree with both of you on the thumb cluster usage, on both sides - I only use the inner most 2x keys regularly, and the other 2x keys are relegated to del and enter, which aren't actually necessary all the time. (well, I have a duplicate enter key at the regular position, which is the one I use more often.)

The rest of the thumb cluster keys on my layout are used mostly for layer changes, and the characters [], home, end, windows key and a off center ctrl (another duplicate - there's an easier to reach ctrl elsewhere). It's true that the 1x keys aren't in the best positions to be reached easily on a consistent basis, so that's where the keys that I use on the least frequent basis go.

But I could see an issue if the layout used requires constant usage of the thumb cluster for other than the 2x keys.

But the beauty of the setup is that the layout can be tweaked over and over until you're happy with it in use.(looking at a folder I set aside for the hex files I downloaded, I went through at least 40 revisions before I settled on what I've been using for the last few months. I suspect if I started playing games again, that number would likely grow.)

I've more or less settled on one where I actually have more than enough keys on layer 0 to work with in normal usage, so much so that I ignore the rest of the thumb cluster, not consciously, but because I don't miss those keys at all. The only thing I'm not satisfied with would probably be the lack of a dedicated arrow cluster on layer 0 (I've tried many swaps with various keys, just doesn't feel right while typing)

[daerid]

My layout's fairly QWERTY, but with a few tweaks. The arrows are actually really easy to use on the 2nd layer after a few days use. Especially since I mainly use my left thumb to toggle L1. Since I write code for a living, I really needed access to []{} on L1. The two Z's are due to the fact that I hit a different one depending on if I'm normally typing words, or hitting Ctrl+Z for undo. The odd B placement also has to do with standard QWERTY muscle memory. Probably not the best ergonomically, but I just can't get used to hitting X with my ring finger and C with my middle finger. Just feels weird....

[MOZ]

My layout's fairly QWERTY, but with a few tweaks. The arrows are actually really easy to use on the 2nd layer after a few days use. Especially since I mainly use my left thumb to toggle L1. Since I write code for a living, I really needed access to []{} on L1. The two Z's are due to the fact that I hit a different one depending on if I'm normally typing words, or hitting Ctrl+Z for undo. The odd B placement also has to do with standard QWERTY muscle memory. Probably not the best ergonomically, but I just can't get used to hitting X with my ring finger and C with my middle finger. Just feels weird....

That is a neat layout.

[Larken]

My layout's fairly QWERTY, but with a few tweaks. The arrows are actually really easy to use on the 2nd layer after a few days use. Especially since I mainly use my left thumb to toggle L1. Since I write code for a living, I really needed access to []{} on L1. The two Z's are due to the fact that I hit a different one depending on if I'm normally typing words, or hitting Ctrl+Z for undo. The odd B placement also has to do with standard QWERTY muscle memory. Probably not the best ergonomically, but I just can't get used to hitting X with my ring finger and C with my middle finger. Just feels weird....

I've seen your qwerty layout before and noticed the zzxcvb - specifically the B on the 1.5 key. I understand why its done, because I actually had the same problem as you when I first started using the dox, but it went away after about a week of typos. I did have to force myself to go slow to adapt to the ring finger, x and middle finger, c combination, so you're not alone in that. You could probably adapt if you give it time, not that you need to; as long as it works for you, its fine.

Personally, I don't notice it anymore, and I've stopped making those typos - but it does plays havoc with my typing when I switch to a standard staggered qwerty board, specifically with that row of cvb letters.

My work mainly revolves around writing long running sentences, so I didn't need {}[] as much as I did ;". Might be a good idea for me to go think about layering the arrow cluster elsewhere with a toggle. Though I've already mostly adapted to the bottom right row arrow cluster.

for reference, this is the layout I've been using since June https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=7M8A25&hash=abea9e64e407519557c52c7dc0e9c0c3

[JohnDiew0107]

what do you guys think of Classic vs Full hand case?

[daerid]

what do you guys think of Classic vs Full hand case?

TBH, I'm on the fence. I really like using the full hand as gives my palms a place to rest. It also resonates with the switches more giving a louder sound. The keys are more clacky.

The classic case, on the other hand, kinda makes me type more correctly. I hover my hands over the desk and just use my fingertips, rather than resting my wrists on a surface. I also really like that there's no extra plastic, it seems cleaner for some reason (probably because there's less acrylic to pick up dust and fingerprints etc...).

[flc]

what do you guys think of Classic vs Full hand case?

I decided to go with the classic for portability with the intent on eventually making a tenting platform with palm rests similar to what Glod has done - although I seriously doubt it will be as nice.

[MOZ]

Like my full hand.

[Jon in PDX]

I've been mildly obsessed with the ErgoDox since I learned about it a few days ago. (It will hopefully be on its way soon from Massdrop.) Mostly, I've been playing with layouts. After mocking up a keyboard, I put together something that I haven't seen elsewhere, and while this probably means it is a bad idea, I still thought I'd share.

https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49

The good:
I won't need to move my hands at all to ctrl-c, ctrl-v, alt-tab, alt-F4, shift-control-arrow, or any of the other shortcuts that I frequently use. I'll also be able to easily use shortcuts that I don't currently employ because they're hard to get to, like ctrl-alt-tab.

The bad:
I won't have ready access to ctrl, alt, or gui without accessing another layer first.

The ugly:
This design is highly modal, meaning a steep learning curve, especially when the keys will be unlabeled.

Details:
Starting with a Dvorak base, I added thumb layer toggles to move the command keys--ctrl, alt, shift, gui--under the four home keys. The far 2x key leaves the other side at its default settings. Tucking the thumb under the hand toggles the arrow layer (right hand) and Fx keys (left hand), with F1-F5 on the home row. A further thumb tuck will push a ten-key or a Qwerty layer.

The center keys are designed for convenience when I'm not touch typing, but I suspect that won't work too well if/when I add tenting. So I've started laying out one-handed setups, with the idea of ultimately being able to use either side alone as a one-handed chording keyboard. It may be pure fantasy, but the idea of typing with my left hand and writing with a pen in my right hand is quite appealing. Perhaps even adding a Teensy to the left side to be able to use it independently...but one step at a time.

No doubt the ten-key layer will be modified once I start using it with Excel. Anyone know how well the extended number pad keys are supported in calculator applications?

I guess whether it works will depend on my ability to climb the learning curve, as well as how easy it is to use the thumbs for what I have laid out. But I've put together a cheat sheet and the thumb keys seem no more difficult to reach than the alt keys or trackpad buttons on my laptop, so I'm eager to give it a try.

Oh, and I'm not a programmer, so I hardly ever touch some characters they use frequently, which is why they're tucked away in the corners. Also, no media keys are used because I'm mostly in Windows. I'm sure I'll end up attaching some of the extended Fx keys to, say, AutoHotKey.

Many thanks to all those who've made this project happen!

[jondkinney]

here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.

Show Image

Looks awesome! Do you have any details on how someone could build those wooden wrist rests themselves? What type of wood, dimensions, etc.

Thanks!

[MOZ]

here is what the mix looks like mixed together. I dont think it looks bad at all.

Show Image

Looks awesome! Do you have any details on how someone could build those wooden wrist rests themselves? What type of wood, dimensions, etc.

Thanks!

It is called the ErgoDock, kurplop made it,  he has a thread on it.

[daerid]

On another note: Just did a couple TypeRacer runs and it seems as though I'm actually about 10wpm faster on the ErgoDox than on a standard QWERTY board now.

[wasabah]

Having used my Ergodox for quite a while now, I don't know if I can ever go without again.
When faced with a normal keyboard recently, I actually had quite some difficulties.
Especially with hitting enter and space, which are both located on my right thumb cluster.
I have quite long fingers btw, so I can use the 2x keys of the thumb cluster easily.

I didn't really have the time yet, but I want to tinker with my layout more.
Right now I'm basically using German layout with some keys like ´<#+ shifted around due to space issues.
But I would actually prefer the US layout plus German Umlaute öäü.
I will have to figure out how that is possible.

For gaming I had some trouble too. I prefer jumping in shooters with my left thumb, but space is on my right thumb.
Also, my arrow keys are separated: up and down on the right half (bottom left) and left and right on the same position of the left half.
But for games, it's often necessary to be able to navigate them all with one hand.

So far I changed the mappings in the games, but in the future I want to make a gaming layer.
This layer will basically be my normal layout except for the changes I addressed above.

Edit: oh and at some point I want to have a solution that allows me to easily fix my two keyboard halves in respect to each other,
but also allows me to move them around separately if necessary.

[fisofo]

I've been mildly obsessed with the ErgoDox since I learned about it a few days ago. (It will hopefully be on its way soon from Massdrop.) Mostly, I've been playing with layouts. After mocking up a keyboard, I put together something that I haven't seen elsewhere, and while this probably means it is a bad idea, I still thought I'd share.

https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49
...

Jon, you may want to take a look at the customized firmware I just posted over here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.msg1027892#msg1027892

I tried a layout similar to what you proposed and liked the idea, but decided that as long as I was doing another layer like that, why not fill them with the most common macros for each letter that I use to decrease the complexity and keys I need to hit for them? The layer toggle key effectively becomes a "Smart" modifier key.

I like it so far, but will be continuing to modify it. Thought I'd mention it.

[therecorder]

How about a miniDox?

http://www.riitek.com/en/product-detail-427.html  (Click to Enlarge Photos)

(espicially fot tp4tissue)

[jdeblese]

I agree about the 1x thumb buttons. Got the Ergodox to be able to move the modifiers (which I use constantly) and to better use my thumbs without strain. The two 2x keys are fine - I use 'em for enter, space and shifts - but it's hard to use mods on the others. I don't want to move the mods back to the bottom left and right, however, as that strains my thumb and pinky.

Thinking of maybe putting ctrl and alt on the first two inner keys of the bottom row. On the outer 1.5x column is no good, as I don't mind those for stuff like tab and backspace but can't stand them for anything I have to hold.

Has anyone tried putting a higher keycap on the 1x thumbs, for instance an SA row 1 or DCS row 5, so that it's easier to reach over the 2x thumb keys?

Current layout, as I'm learning the board:
https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=4DQTDG&hash=5ce9978e58b8542158c3060d7d11856f
Haven't yet decided what to do with the inner 1.5s as they're acting a bit funny and I haven't had time to debug them. I've based it on querty so it's less of a problem when I have to use other people's keyboards.

[wuqe]

I've been mildly obsessed with the ErgoDox since I learned about it a few days ago. (It will hopefully be on its way soon from Massdrop.) Mostly, I've been playing with layouts. After mocking up a keyboard, I put together something that I haven't seen elsewhere, and while this probably means it is a bad idea, I still thought I'd share.

https://www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox/?referer=TUHZR6&hash=c8bc2cfbfad1747b980b597cee637a49

I've actually used an AHK script to do some of this without the thumb involvement:

http://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/95099-dual-role-modifier-keys/?p=616668

It's time-based, which means it can give unexpected results occasionally, but it saves me from too much modality.