Ergodox Batch 2 question

[tp4tissue]

Just got my acrylic kit

the edges are pretty roughly cut, this was my worst fear as it'll require sanding.. 

Is this normal?

And there are "some" burn marks seems like the blade got too hot at places..

[Binge]

I've heard this is standard.  The metal case parts all require finishing.  This is to cut costs.

[Lbeuol]

Yea mine were about the same, just needs a quick sanding gave a weird smell too but that disappeared pretty fast.

[tp4tissue]

Also, I didn't get an MCP23018 I/O expander   ... Sigh....

[Lbeuol]

  Did you contact Massdrop already? They're usually pretty good at replacing stuff.

[tp4tissue]

Did you contact Massdrop already? They're usually pretty good at replacing stuff.

Yea, I'm 100% confident in Massdrop... they seem like great dudes...  Just saying my life sucks right now... sigh...... Stareing at my 99% complete ergodox

[daerid]

The external edges of mine are slightly rough, but I kinda like it.

The main issue with mine is that one of the layers didn't have the wholes completely drilled, I had to pop out some plastic in them and then drill them out slightly before the bolts would fit.

I also had some burn marks on the paper overlays.

[Jagriff]

Did you contact Massdrop already? They're usually pretty good at replacing stuff.

Yea, I'm 100% confident in Massdrop... they seem like great dudes...  Just saying my life sucks right now... sigh...... Stareing at my 99% complete ergodox

Same, except my ergodox is only like 30% complete. I'm missing everything but the cables, case, switches, and diodes.

[agodinhost]

Use some alcohol to clean it up, but don't force it because acrylic is easy to get scratched - it will remove the black traces that the laser left ...

[tp4tissue]

completed 1 of 2 ergodoxes,   the second one is missing the expander and is at 99% completion

What is the difference between toggle, and push and pop.   I figure toggle is hold , and then push is between?, what is POP.

[tp4tissue]

also how do you get copy and paste to work under media keys

[Larken]

you're right about toggle.

push is to activate that layer permanently. ie. push layer 2 - press it once and you go to layer 2.

pop layer 2 = reverting back to L0.

copy and paste along with the rest of the media keys didn't work during the last iteration of the firmware that I've tried. that was about a few months ago.

[tp4tissue]

thx for the info Larken

I also finally got costar stabilizers in there and it's quite a difficult tweak spacing is difficult to calibrate and you have to glue if you want it in there permanently.

thumb buttons much smoother with stabilizers

[Glod]

didn't like the stabilizers on mine :O waste of time modifying a costar. took that out.

i never got the media keys and stuff like copy and paste to work. gave up quickly on that.

you can sand the edges but if you do you'll need to do the whole hand for it to leave consistent. a bit scary.

[tp4tissue]

didn't like the stabilizers on mine :O waste of time modifying a costar. took that out.

i never got the media keys and stuff like copy and paste to work. gave up quickly on that.

you can sand the edges but if you do you'll need to do the whole hand for it to leave consistent. a bit scary.

Yea I looked into sanding acrylic, tools,  I don't think this would turn out so good on the ergodox because each layer is incredible different. I guess a good cleaning will suffice...


Last ditch thought:

I have a drill press though.   Can i get an edging bit for acrylic cnc machine, and then mount some clamps and run my ergodox through that??

[kurplop]

I think sanding the acrylic sides would be pretty straight forward. As Glod indicated, if you have the layers all together they can be uniformly sanded. If the unit is already built just mask off the openings first. After sanding with progressively finer grits, you could use a buffing wheel loaded with a compound made for plastic in your drill press and you'll have glass-like sides in no time. It would also be best to back the sandpaper with a flat block to maintain flat sides and maybe use an appropriately sized dowel to back the sandpaper at the inside curve.

I wouldn't recommend using end mills unless the work and tooling is very well secured.

[tp4tissue]

I think sanding the acrylic sides would be pretty straight forward. As Glod indicated, if you have the layers all together they can be uniformly sanded. If the unit is already built just mask off the openings first. After sanding with progressively finer grits, you could use a buffing wheel loaded with a compound made for plastic in your drill press and you'll have glass-like sides in no time. It would also be best to back the sandpaper with a flat block to maintain flat sides and maybe use an appropriately sized dowel to back the sandpaper at the inside curve.

I wouldn't recommend using end mills unless the work and tooling is very well secured.

cool info thx , about the end mills do you have an idea of what rpm those machines run at,  I don't know if my press can go that fast

[kurplop]

Unlike woodworking routers, metal and plastic cutters generally run much slower. The heat from the high speed melts the plastic and, with metal ruins the cutter. My concerns are less about the speed of the drill press and more about the ability to control the cut. That's why it's actually safer to sand the work piece to final shape. You don't risk gouging into the material or having it shoot off the table trying to climb cut.

I'm not very experienced working with acrylic but an end mill would likely leave a surface that would still have to be polished out anyways.

[tp4tissue]

Been using the eDox many many hours now... the only shoulder pain I have is from building it...

That is to say the eDox is very shoulder friendly..

[daerid]

Oh good. My right shoulder has been killing me recently.

[tp4tissue]

These fasteners, are they M2.5 - 0.5 x 22 ??

[SubGothius]

These fasteners, are they M2.5 - 0.5 x 22 ??

M3x0.5, 22mm length.

[tp4tissue]

These fasteners, are they M2.5 - 0.5 x 22 ??

M3x0.5, 22mm length.

Awesome, Thanks